What watch do you wear?

Associate
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https://amjwatches.co.uk/oris-carysfort-reef-limited-edition-rubber-01-798-7754-4185-set-rs.html

Just ordered this, got it for £1680 with the discount code AMJ2020 which I think is an amazing deal considering its just been released, had to contact them on live chat to make sure it wasn’t a mistake on the web site. Already got two Oris watches the staghorn limited edition and source of life but think this is sufficiently different to those to justify the purchase (plus the wife approved which is always a bonus!).
 
Associate
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Very nice model indeed, congratulations!

I have the "classic" Orius Aquis date with the blue sunburst dial and it's my favourite summer tool watch. Love its looks, readability, sturdiness and it so so confortable to wear on the rubber strap :cool:
 
Associate
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Very nice model indeed, congratulations!

I have the "classic" Orius Aquis date with the blue sunburst dial and it's my favourite summer tool watch. Love its looks, readability, sturdiness and it so so confortable to wear on the rubber strap :cool:

Thankyou, they produce lovely watches for the price - yours is a great looking model, my existing Oris watches are bracelet versions so had a few reservations on ordering a rubber strap version, so thankyou for putting my mind at ease.
 
Associate
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Happy to put your mind even more at ease, to me their rubber strap is the best rubber I have ever tried by far. As I said it is extremely comfortable, easy to adjust and very solid/robust.
 
Soldato
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I'm looking for an automatic watch <£1k with a power reserve of over 48hrs. I never wear watches on the weekend and want something I can take off on Friday night and pick up on Monday without needing to adjust time. Are the Tissot powermatic range the only ones that would fit the bill?
 
Caporegime
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I'm looking for an automatic watch <£1k with a power reserve of over 48hrs. I never wear watches on the weekend and want something I can take off on Friday night and pick up on Monday without needing to adjust time. Are the Tissot powermatic range the only ones that would fit the bill?

Hamilton has their H10 movement which is the same as the powermatic with an 80 hour reserve.

https://watchbase.com/hamilton/caliber/h-10
https://watchbase.com/hamilton/caliber/h-30
 
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Soldato
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I'm looking for an automatic watch <£1k with a power reserve of over 48hrs. I never wear watches on the weekend and want something I can take off on Friday night and pick up on Monday without needing to adjust time. Are the Tissot powermatic range the only ones that would fit the bill?
Would you look secondhand? You'll get way more bang for your buck!
 
Man of Honour
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By accident found scrolling homescreen memo feature on the vintage Casio today :cool:

Homescreen_memo.gif
 
Soldato
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It's down to the complications as well as craftsmanship in each component. The in-house movements in watches that cost 5 figures are almost always finely finished by hand, each brush rotation or movement is unique to that movement in that watch and takes considerable time to do. There are many Grand Seiko Spring Drive videos on YouTube showing what goes on in making these movements and not just the movement but the dial and hands themselves from hand stroked texturing on a dial to the hand polishing on the underside of hands that GS watchmakers do, even though you are unlikely to ever notice such detail, it's all there.

The basic principals of a watch movement have not changed in all this time. Escapement variations have remained constant too but what has evolved is how modern materials and computer aided engineering have allowed for insanely accurate movements now, even in the off the shelf cheaper movements and watchmakers that use these movements can further increase their accuracy by doing their own adjustments and regulations in up to 5 positions, something that only the higher end watchmakers tend to do in their in-house movements.

I'm not sure I explained what I was leaning more towards. Found a wee example of what I was thinking.

Step 1
The wearer's wrist movements cause the rotor to turn and, through gears, wind the mainspring. It's also possible to wind the mainspring via the crown, as on a manual watch.

Step 2
The gears in the geartrain transfer this energy to the escapement.

Step 3
The escapement provides energy at regular intervals to the balance wheel.

Step 4
The pallets on the lever push the balance wheel in one direction then the other. This maintains the balance wheel's oscillations, still using the energy that originates in the mainspring.

Step 5
Each swing of the balance wheel advances the geartrain a set amount to drive the hands mounted on the gears.

Step 6
The hands turn on the dial. Reduction gears mean, for example, that the minute hand will turn faster than the hour hand.

That's the basic functions of a watch. So if I take a Jacob and co watch as an example https://www.jacobandco.com/timepieces/opera-jacob-co they've added a triple axis tourbillion, rotating cylinders that play music etc over and above the basic function of a watch. It boggles my mind that a designer can go to those lengths adding more weight and more strain I guess on the mechanism in order to function.

I guess what I'm alluding to is with the right level of knowledge e.g deconstructing existing mechanisms and the technical know how. How easy would it be to design your own watch / mechanism?
 
Soldato
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I'm not sure I explained what I was leaning more towards. Found a wee example of what I was thinking.



That's the basic functions of a watch. So if I take a Jacob and co watch as an example https://www.jacobandco.com/timepieces/opera-jacob-co they've added a triple axis tourbillion, rotating cylinders that play music etc over and above the basic function of a watch. It boggles my mind that a designer can go to those lengths adding more weight and more strain I guess on the mechanism in order to function.

I guess what I'm alluding to is with the right level of knowledge e.g deconstructing existing mechanisms and the technical know how. How easy would it be to design your own watch / mechanism?
You'd be surprised how little strain will have been added with those extra mechanisms. A 'good' designer will be able to make something like that watch have next to no strain on the base mechanism by working with materials/shapes etc that have 'just the right amount' of resistance to be incredibly well balanced.

How easy would it be to design your own mechanism... fairly easy to design one, getting it to be consistent and accurate, while shrinking it down to watch size, would be the issue for people without experience imo.
 
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Here is another one I recently picked up. A 70s Universal White Shadow Automatic Ultra Slim ref 866105. It's just 7mm thick and contains a adjusted cal 66 microtor movement in it and was a competitor to the Pateks, APs, VCs and Piagets of the period. This UG however represents serious value for money given how affordable they are now.

h8KwxVn.jpg

This is what the movement looks like.

Lw36kBy.jpg
 
Soldato
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I got my new strap today, used to have a bracelet but during the really hot days its not so comfy to wear. I really like the brown strap any way!

KgjxuFwh.jpg.png

*edit* some nicer pics :D Yes I have skinny wrists...
SvbJ9Quh.jpg
wwGc8Zvh.jpg
 
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Man of Honour
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Recently the EL backlight on my Casio Cognit Schema stopped working. I did some reading online and older EL backlights were prone to failure as they aged since the chemical reaction in them fades the more they are used. My watch was sold as new but old stock which is seemingly legitimate as it was in brand new condition. So I attributed the backlight failing to just age really.

I sent out a few emails to Casio repair companies and an LA based authorised Casio outfit with hope that they could repair the backlight but they said a new module was needed and this is no longer available...

My plan B was to transplant either the donor movement module from a used watch that used the same module bought online or fine one with a similar module and just swap out the backlight panel. I found just the watch on eBay, a 1980s DB-60 which looked the same layout just with a databank capacity of 50 entries instead of the 80 on mine, no bother. It was sold for £19 so couldn't sniff at that really. A brand new (unworn old stock) one with box and papers goes for £90~ for this model too.

The donor watch arrived and everything worked as expected, the module in it is of the same size but it has some physical differences. There are only 2 springs on the back for the speaker, the top gold springs are not there like they are on the module 1475 on mine and whilst it has a white plastic cover between back cover and module, the white cover has no connecting strip of copper for the extra gold springs to short since it doesn't have them.

The donor module also has no pitch change in the beep once you leave the last mode page and return to the time main screen and the tone of the beep is not as cool as the module 1475 in the Cognit Schema. Even though the donor is from the 80s, the Cognit from the 90s sounds more 80s lol.

All other modes seem to be the same but I decided not to just swap the module because of the above and instead look at swapping the EL backlight panel instead.

So off I went taking things apart...

1: The donor watch had its backlight panel removed, I didn't really get any photos of this stage as I was only interested in the backlight... I thought these were metal and quite stiff but turns out it's quite a bendy piece of panel. The circle patches are the contact points for the tiny gold springs that all too easily fly off into the unknown.... Gotta be careful!
1_ELbacklight_donor.jpg


2: Took out the 1475 module from the CS, this was rather easy really, the springs are all retained with a little bit on one end that sticks out retaining it in the hole through the mid-section of the plastic module frame.
2_1475_out.jpg


3: A little closer look inside the Cognit Schema, probably not a sight many will have ever seen, or will likely ever see again?
3_inner-housing.jpg


4: With the module out, I can compare the size of the donor backlight panel just to be double sure it's the right size. The Cognit Schema graphic can be seen on the LCD, more on this later...
4_1475-display.jpg


5: The graphic sheet removed after taking out the LCD panel: I still have no idea what the graphic is meant to be?!
5_COgnitSchemaGraphic.jpg


6: The backlight panels side by side now, the top one is the donor.
6_ELbacklight_comparison.jpg


7: Close-up inspection of the 1475 module with a loupe to make sure nothing looks burnt out or damaged
7_1475-mainboard.jpg


8: In goes the donor backlight panel before putting the LCD back in
8_1475_ELBacklight-panel.jpg


9: From the underside I forgot to put the springs for the backlight panel back in so had to take the LCD and backlight panels out again to do this as the springs are wider on one side to stop them falling through
9_1475-backlightpanelspring.jpg



Put it all back together and gave it a quick test and you know what? backlight still not working.... Great :mad:

So it seems there's a power issue to the backlight from the module mainboard itself. I'm guessing the original backlight panel in the CS was fine too and the issue lies with power to the panel from the mainboard hence why Casio repair in LA said a new module is needed.

It may also be that one of the springs on the backlight panel is not making contact with the mainboard to complete the circuit as one does appear shorter when placed in the holes before the backlight panel goes in so one day when I have more time will dismantle again and stretch the spring out a bit to test this out, otherwise it would appear that I'll just have to put up with not having a backlight.

I also removed the graphic panel and placed it safely with the watches paperwork, it's nice not having a pink blob in the middle of the LCD that looks odd during the daytime now at least without the ability to show it with the backlight, so there is that one positive outcome from all this I guess.

Although alternatively, no working backlight on a ~30yr old watch could be seen as "character" like on a classic car where something electrical doesn't work? :D

Luckily because of its rarity the value of the watch should not be hurt much by having no backlight, not that I intend to sell it in the near future at least anyway.
 
Soldato
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@Chewie Thanks very much! I bought it from https://www.acollectedman.com/ I am really pleased with it, it looks like it has been made very well. It was also one of the fewer companies that sell straps (that I could find any way) that come in a 'short' size (105mm + 70mm).

I am still waiting for a cheaper Barton silicon strap that mrk recommended.

@mrk I quite like the colour of that casio you mentioned above! Looks like you invested a lot of time in its repair without success? :(
 
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