What watch do you wear?

Associate
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Great service from AMJ watches, after ordering the Oris Aquis Carysfort this week (arriving tomorrow) I rang them up to ensure they had stock and confirm all was ok with the order as it was so cheap. They confirmed all was ok, until later on I got a call from the lad I spoke to who apologised and said that the orange rubber strap version I ordered was in fact not in stock and they only had the bracelet version, so he let me change to the bracelet version for a bit extra (Same discount included).

Spoke to the Oris service centre (who have also been great) and they are ordering me the same orange strap from Switzerland which should arrive in 2 weeks so pretty happy.
 
Man of Honour
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I suppose anything electronic is going to fail one day :p But mechanical also wears out!

@Chewie Thanks very much! I bought it from https://www.acollectedman.com/ I am really pleased with it, it looks like it has been made very well. It was also one of the fewer companies that sell straps (that I could find any way) that come in a 'short' size (105mm + 70mm).

I am still waiting for a cheaper Barton silicon strap that mrk recommended.

@mrk I quite like the colour of that casio you mentioned above! Looks like you invested a lot of time in its repair without success? :(

It was worth a try but yeah sadly no success so I have no backlight which I'm OK with really.
 
Don
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When buying 2nd hand, do you guys carre about papers/boxes? I understand that it affects resale value but just curious to know other people's views on it.

I guess it depends on the seller and if you care about selling it on, I bought a sub from a mate in the city, was there on the day he bought it from WOS and I know just how useless he is with keeping boxes (even if they are worth £600!) so I didn't think twice. Would I do that with someone I just met, no, but I would take it to an AD and if they gave it the thumbs up I'd consider it as long as the price reflected the lack of provenance.
 
Soldato
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When buying 2nd hand, do you guys carre about papers/boxes? I understand that it affects resale value but just curious to know other people's views on it.
Not very useful response: it depends.

Do not use papers to in any way judge the authenticity of the watch. They can be bought, as can boxes, also very easily faked like the watches themselves, so they're really just the icing on the cake for me.

They are basically just clutter for you, until you decide to sell, in which case they can help.
 
Soldato
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I'd say if you plan on keeping it forever and it's not a massively high value watch, paperwork etc is largely irrelevant if it's a design you really like. If, however you want to buy as an investment or a high value watch then paperwork and authenticity would be important.
 
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When buying 2nd hand, do you guys carre about papers/boxes? I understand that it affects resale value but just curious to know other people's views on it.

Not always. I guess it’s about price with me.
I like my Roamers, Certina, Victroinox , Hamilton’s etc , second hand you can obtain them reasonably cheap. So if no paperwork then that effects the purchase price. I am not too bothered about papers as long as I can be confident it’s genuine.
But I’d say anything over £200 I would want that confirmation. It at least provides the confirmation that it’s “guaranteed” authentic and you can sell at price similar to what it was bought for, without losing out.
 
Soldato
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Of course 'it depends', if I bought a watch from WOS without a box I wouldn't bat an eyelid, if I bought it from some guy behind a pub I'd worry hugely.
As I said, the box with the watch from the guy in the pub should make absolutely no difference to you.
It provides zero assistance in assessing anything about the deal you're doing, as the boxes and paperwork are all available separately from e.g. eBay.

Also, don't buy a watch from a guy hawking in a pub :p
 
Soldato
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Ive bought some on eBay that have the authenticity apparently guaranteed... don't know how that works but hey! I also have bought from Chrono24 my black bay and that had no box or papers. It was taken as a trade in by a shop in Paris (checked their profile) and they sold it on as their main watches were rolex/APs etc. Saved me some cash as it didn't have them, so happy me, and happy him as he probably got a deal on the trade in.
 
Soldato
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Thanks for all the input regarding box/papers. Christopher Ward had 50% off on the C65 Trident Diver so I ended up putting an order for that after some good news at work.
It's currently pre-order for 20th July, it's the manual hand wound version and will be my first of it's type. It'll go along with my not yet modified SKX007 + SNK(I do have all the parts :p)
 
Associate
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Was never excited by it to be honest, for me the "original" version if the BB58 looks much better and so is much more desirable.



Small update on the ProPilot X, I had it fully rewound on 06/07 after it had stopped past the 12.5 days mark and been measuring its accuracy on a daily basis. Results are pretty good so far, I'm between -1.7s and -1.9s every day :)
 
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Man of Honour
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Negative seconds per day is a bit more annoying than gaining per day for me as with +2s a day for example you can just pull the crown for a couple seconds and you're back in sync whereas losing seconds a day needs to be zeroed with minute hand adjustment.

Not a huge issue but some I know prefer gained time and losing too much time could indicate poor regulation or a magnetised movement on movements that don't have anti magnetic!
 
Associate
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Negative seconds per day is a bit more annoying than gaining per day for me as with +2s a day for example you can just pull the crown for a couple seconds and you're back in sync whereas losing seconds a day needs to be zeroed with minute hand adjustment.

Not a huge issue but some I know prefer gained time and losing too much time could indicate poor regulation or a magnetised movement on movements that don't have anti magnetic!

Nowadays the standard for what is considered for a good "accurate" mechanical movement is between -5s and +5s a day so I'm pleased with the results so far :)

I mean as in colour design, it was quite easy to tell a 58 from any other Tudor (or Rolex) whereas now it's not with the new one.

Exactly, the "original" one has a look of its own whereas the blue version feels very generic to me.
 
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