Wheels - Handbuilt vs Factory

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Wayne. I'm going to have to ask you to dial back your tone a little please. touch's post was stating his opinion, which he is perfectly entitled to do.

I think you'll have a better time and also get a better response from other posters if you stop taking things quite so personally.
 
Truing your wheels and regreasing hubs is not r&d. What else are you claiming goes on in that shed of yours?

As I said, truing a factory wheel is not customising it.

Edit: beaten.
Vonhelmet, I'll be honest, I don't know why but I find myself wanting to like you, I think it may be the username :D

I have no idea who you are but I am assuming you too have some good knowledge tucked away under your helmet but I'll be honest with you it's not coming across brother, your efforts at sophism are not even first grade so I'm gonna have to set you straight. . .

Now, we kind of agree that's its plausible that a hand-built wheel is better than a factory built wheel, however I think you believe a factory wheel is built by a machine? I could be mistaken so I'm going to double check with you, Vonhelmet, do you think factory built wheels are done by machine?

I believe both factory built wheels and hand built wheels are both built by hand, the reason I believe this is because I watched a video on youtube of Ho-Lee-Fork working in a MAVIC factory building wheels . .. by hand. He did have some amazing "machinery" to stress the wheels but I believe the wheel was created by hand, I could be wrong, you could be wrong, we both could be wrong!

When talking about the difference between the wheels you stated "Whether that makes a difference in terms of actual ride quality and longevity once you get them on the road, I don't know." . . . So you have no experience to bring to this topic regarding if a hand built wheel will last longer than a factory built wheel, that's ok and there is no shame in that, moving on . . .

Your reasoning that you believe MAVIC know how to create a better wheel than any of us is they "have been making bike parts, presumably including wheels, since 1889" i.e they haven't gone bust yet so they must be the best haha! or did I misread that?

You stated " Truing your wheels and regreasing hubs is not r&d." :confused:

I never said, implied or gave any indication that truing a wheel or re greasing hubs was in any shape or form R&D, should have gone to spec savers mate!

I asked the question "do you think a good hand built wheel stay true longer" and you chime in with "truing a factory wheel is not customising it" :confused:. . . haha what are you going on about? who said that truing a wheel is customising it? Not me, not anyone so it sounds like either you just see what you want to see or are doing your level best to construct an argument where none exists?

God damn it, is it half term or something? :cool:
 
Wayne. I'm going to have to ask you to dial back your tone a little please. touch's post was stating his opinion, which he is perfectly entitled to do.

I have no idea what your talking about? How can I dial back something I am not aware of? . . . touch is not sharing his opinion, he is just disagreeing with me with no substance . . . please elaborate because I think thats quite rude what you just said? :D

I think you'll have a better time and also get a better response from other posters if you stop taking things quite so personally.
What do you feel I am taking personally? The contents of the posts which have been deleted? Im not taking that personally but you can't have personal attacks on a forum for no reason FrenchTart? . . . please be reasonable, you can't just insult someone because you don't understand what they are saying? :p
 
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Please feel free to post in the Forum Content Discussion forum if you would like to discuss this further (rather than us taking the thread off-topic): https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=164

In the meantime I'm asking politely that you simply take a step back, breath out, and re-examine your posts above. Telling other posters that have expressed their opinion (and, to relate to what you've just posted, *not* had their posts removed by the mod team) to "jog on" or suggesting that they're posting as they are because "is it half term or something?" are all examples of the kind of tone that generally hasn't been present in Pedal Powered before.

There's nothing wrong with discussion and there's nothing wrong with disagreeing with people. However, it is perfectly possible to have both without any need to make remarks that add nothing more than a mildly insulting tone.
 
Thanks Bear, I have spun them and timed how long they remain in motion

This sounds like when I saw someone who was upgrading his free hub by removing pawls springs to reduce the resistance

There are basically 3 things that are going to affect a wheels performance:
1) Rim profile which will affect aerodynamic performance - can't see how you can change this, and it's pretty much the biggest factor. Modelling CFD is also incredibly expensive and creating a custom carbon mould for that design? ouch.
2) Tyre/rim interaction which will affect aerodynamic performance - you can certainly find better tyre/rim combinations e.g.
http://flocycling.blogspot.co.uk/2016/04/flo-cycling-a2-wind-tunnel-tire-study.html
3) Spokes - switching to sapim x-rays will save a few watts:
http://flocycling.blogspot.co.uk/2016/04/flo-cycling-aerodynamic-difference.html

So I'm not sure what you're tweaking, unless you're talking about the hubs, which is going to make differences that are basically going to be within any reasonable testing margin of error
 
There's nothing wrong with discussion and there's nothing wrong with disagreeing with people. However, it is perfectly possible to have both without any need to make remarks that add nothing more than a mildly insulting tone.
No sorry FrenchTrat too little too late, its totally hypocritical that you ignore posts like these

Wayne, you have either got a chip on your shoulder, you are trolling or you are clueless.
This is not how we discuss things, if you had done your job like a good Don I wouldn't have got ragged, just do what your meant to do and moderate, don't come and give me lip.

I've done nothing wrong, if people wanna waste my time they can jog on, whats the point of saying I disagree with someone and then not providing anything of substance, its a wind up FrenchTart, don't you join in as well, just try and add something to the conversation about custome wheels, if you can! ;)
 
No I'm done, thanks! :)

It's really, really frustrating when your trying to explore an idea and you get misunderstood, I'm just curious to push the boundries a little, thats all, I'm not here to fight but want as much useful feedback to explore an idea . . .
 
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No I'm done, thanks! :)

It's really, really frustrating when your trying to explore an idea and you get misunderstood, I'm just curious to push the boundries a little, thats all, I'm not here to fight but want as much useful feedback to explore an idea . . .

Have a read of the flo cycling blog (links in my above post) - They publish a lot of data, more than any other wheel manufacturer I know of. I think you'll see that wheel manufacturing *has* come a long way, but there's a lot to it.
 
It's best to watch your tone when you don't know what you're talking about.

Here's an article about bicycle wheels being built by machine: http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/the-robot-wheel-building-revolution-37550/

I could find plenty more info on the subject if I could be bothered.

As for your "customising"... What are you talking about, if not truing or regreasing? I only leapt to those as ideas because what else can you be doing to an existing set of wheels? You talked about customising wheels, now tell us what you mean by that.

And no, it's not half term, my kids have been back at school a couple of weeks. Get over yourself.
 
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Quit bickering. If you can't debate nicely then ignore each other. If anybody wants to continue arguing or even comments on what's gone on within this thread, they'll be getting a holiday.
 
It's best to watch your tone when you don't know what you're talking about.
Haha! :D

Here's an article about bicycle wheels being built by machine: http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/the-robot-wheel-building-revolution-37550/

I could find plenty more info on the subject if I could be bothered.

Well firstly that video was amazing, I wish you had laid that egg another way but yes I did not know and have never seen before a computer building a wheel. That is a useful contribution to the thread, what else do you have rattling around under that helmet!

I have only seen the dude in the Mavic factory banging them out, I wonder if this technology is being adopted by all the major wheel manufacturers?
I wonder can a human master wheel builder produce a better wheel than a robot assuming the parts used are the same . . . . I wonder how the robot knows how to correctly adjust a wheel? is it copying the instructions of a wheel builder, working to some specified/engineered thresh hold, this is all good food for thought. Thanks for showing me this . . .



As for your "customising"... What are you talking about, if not truing or regreasing? I only leapt to those as ideas because what else can you be doing to an existing set of wheels? You talked about customising wheels, now tell us what you mean by that.

Well I would say stop leaping to conclusions which put us in a collision path, there is no point in coming to the forums if not to learn. The topic is factory built wheels vs hand built wheels. We have discussed some basic pros and cons to both. As it turns out we both are actually in agreement that it's likely that a human wheel builder has the edge, I think this because I believe that a hand-built wheel gets more craftsmanship time and you state you think this " because they have a different feel for it compared to a machine."

Ok so that point sorted . . .

When I spoke about customising I wasn't meaning truing or re greasing, I meant choosing all the separate pieces of hardware (i.e spokes, rims. hubs) to create a custom wheel for each of us. The response to this was that the wheel companies knew best how to mix and match components and very little could be achieved by attempting to do this ourselves, also someone said that the big wheel companies keep their cutting edge I.P for only their wheels i.e its exclusive to them and you can't build a wheel using this tech yourself as they won't sell it to you.

Somehow some of this got lost in translation and turned into an idea of me in my "shed" smelting alloys into a secret design that was partially anti-gravity and I was the king of wheel throughout our solar system . . . . some serious lost in translation I have to say if anyone can arrive at the above conclusion by anything I have said in this thread . . .

Customisation, rims. hubs, spokes, lacing styles etc. . . that's all I'm talking about, exactly the same thing that a bunch of us have already done with personal computing, we made the machine go faster with knowledge . . . I am hoping that eventually using knowledge I can make my bike go faster and my intuition/curiosity is guiding me towards the wheel . . .

I'm not trying to re-invent the wheel but I am wanting to know if there is a way to unlock some extra speed, in essence "over clock" a wheel in the same vein as one would over clock a cpu

I hope this post goes someway to putting this thread back on track and clearing up the confusion, misunderstandings and "leaps" in the wrong direction.

I'm sorry if some of you feel offended that I don't believe the wheels for sale from the big companies are the best there is, I think this because its more likely the perfect wheel is made up of parts from several companies (hub by Rolls Royce, Rims by Saab, Spokes by Jaguar etc). Do you believe one companies can possess the very best tech under one roof?

Could INTEL build the very best desktop computer, probably not so why can a large company like MAVIC build a better wheel than any of us? . . . this line of reasoning is causing people to be quite confused?

And no, it's not half term, my kids have been back at school a couple of weeks. Get over yourself.
Sorry for that, I just got really frustrated at you for making leaps and putting words in my mouth, don't do it again, if your not sure do me the courtesy of asking for clarification before you fly off and yes thank you I will get over myself! :p
 
Disclosure: i build wheels, i've done about 15-20. Mainly for me but a few for friends and family

Plenty of circumstances where handbuilt is the way forward - carrying loads, winter bikes, interesting strength-weight balances etc.

Because i can build myself, i can build for weight at a price point where factory wheels aren't that competitive.

Aero is definitely in favour of the factory at the mo, but some builders can get Enve and Zipp rims in. Little cost benefit to it though, useful if you have pernickety hub choices.

I can't build for aero anything like as cost effectively as i can for weight relative to factory wheels.

The real kicker for me is sustainability - a good hub looked after well lasts many times the life of the rim, and on that count factory wheels are pretty wasteful. Of course the industry has people convinced they need a performance upgrade long before most rims are worn out. My daily wheels are 32x 3 cross open sports, and they get mistreated through all winds and weathers - when the rim is worn i tape a new one to the side and cross spoke it. If i was running khamsins, they'd go in the bin hubs, spokes and all and the ongoing cost is much higher. Maintenance spoke replacements are much cheaper and easier too.
 
yeah it's handy for less std wheel builds, for example it was hard to buy any decent disc brake road wheels last year as the market was too new. There where some really nice crazy priced wheels but who blows £1k on non-aero all year round wheels.
 
Hi Saytan,

what was the impetus you had to learn to build your own wheels, like are you from a family of wheel builders, just couldn't find a wheel that fitted your needs or it made good financial sense? . . I can true a wheel pretty good but haven't yet built my own, in theory it's doable but the whole subject of dishing throws a spanner in the works . . also knowing a decent wheel builder who charges around £30.00/wheel seems to stop me pushing forward myself as that seems not too much money and pays for his experience and equipment. I notice even the wheel-builders aren't safe from toy addition, high-end truing stands, spoke cutting machines etc . . . I love the idea you can make your own spokes.

So is Aero the main area of technological push at the moment? I'm thinking there must be other areas open to innovation otherwise in 100 years wheels will almost still be the same but just thinner?

I've been using Mavic Open Sports also, mainly because they come in silver but also they are very cost effective (around £20 in sale), unfortunately as my weight started creeping over 250lbs the rear 32x3 just couldn't take it and kept going out of true, eventually spokes started snapping which when you are miles out in the countryside is no laughing matter, one broken spoke effectively rendered my rear wheel unusable as the wheel just warped and jammed against the chain stay. On my older hybrid frame this wouldn't have been such an issue as the rear triangle was designed to accommodate very thick 48c tyres so would allow a wheel to continue spinning even when out of true but the geometry on a road frame which is expecting a maximum of 32c tires doesn't allow a wheel to work once it's out of true . .

I had the rear wheel rebuilt twice but the same thing kept happening, eventually I figured my load was too great and had a new rear wheel built using a 36-hole Mavic A319 with some monster Sapim strong spokes, it's been rolling for over 6 months and is still almost mint.

My wheel builder said Mavic Open Sports can be a bit hit and miss, a lot of the wheels he builds using this rim have no problems but he does get a few call-backs, mainly from the heavier riders like myself, I did try to look at the technical papers from Mavic but still don't have concrete figures of what "load" the various wheel can handle, I seem to remember it was in the region of 250lbs.

Another thing I discovered is that disk brakes put a strange torsion load on the side of the wheel where the rotor is, the Mavic Open-Sport/A319 are sold as rim brake rims so may not be ideal for a hulk using disk brakes, I couldn't find a disk break specific rim that was sold in Silver? . . . I don't understand why RIMs have such basic colour choices compared to hubs and spokes?

Anyways I wouldn't picking your brains about 700c disk break wheels, you mention you have built a fair few wheels so chances are not all of them were for rim brakes only.

In the wheel builders guide it says the spoke tension must be increased on the drive side, I'm assuming this is because the load of the gears but I've yet to hear about spoke tension adjustments for disk brake wheels, I'm sure the forces at play are stronger on the rotor side of the wheel.

You mentioned that if you look after a hub it will last many times the life of the rim but your talking about rim brakes yeah? . . . On a disk break wheel I have found it to be the other way round, I actually went through a couple of hubs as the spokes were ripping out the hub flanges and distorting the holes so effectively destroying the hub.

I suppose a properly specc'ed and built disk brake wheel could last a very long time as the rim will be untouched by anything apart from a little road spray and twigs.

The two year old 32x3 Mavic Open Sport front wheel is still working fine although it needs truing every 9 months, I'm thinking I may try out an Open-PRO next time I come to upgrade, any thoughts on the main difference between the sport and Pro (£20 vs £35/£40 quids).

I'm not sure I will be building wheels this year but I damn sure will start to carry spare spokes with me if cycling out into the wilderness, you never realise how bad a broken spoke can be until it happens, miles from home, knackered, cold and a cycle with a wheel that looks like a boomerang.

Look at this photo below, a Red Bus clipped me as I was cycling home from just having my cycle serviced, I walked away with a sore bottom and had to carry my cycle back to the shop. trashed my wheel and bent my alloy frame, total damage cost £300 thanks TFL!

Any tips for constructing a bus proof wheel! :p

03_Crash_Damage_TFL5043246.jpg
 
In the wheel builders guide it says the spoke tension must be increased on the drive side, I'm assuming this is because the load of the gears but I've yet to hear about spoke tension adjustments for disk brake wheels, I'm sure the forces at play are stronger on the rotor side of the wheel.

I think it's more to do with the width of the cassette rather than increased load. The drive side spokes dont go to the outer edge of the hub like the non-drive side so they are shorter and meet the rim at a different angle so the need to be tensioned differently.

I'm not sure I will be building wheels this year but I damn sure will start to carry spare spokes with me if cycling out into the wilderness, you never realise how bad a broken spoke can be until it happens, miles from home, knackered, cold and a cycle with a wheel that looks like a boomerang.

It's not worth taking spokes with you IMO. You'd need a few different sizes for a start then you'd also need tools to remove the cassette or disk rotor - depending on which side your broken spoke is.
Take a spoke tool and adjust the tension on the other spokes to straighten it up as much as possible around the broken spoke - then ride it very gently home.
 
Hi Saytan,

what was the impetus you had to learn to build your own wheels, like are you from a family of wheel builders, just couldn't find a wheel that fitted your needs or it made good financial sense? . . I can true a wheel pretty good but haven't yet built my own, in theory it's doable but the whole subject of dishing throws a spanner in the works . . also knowing a decent wheel builder who charges around £30.00/wheel seems to stop me pushing forward myself as that seems not too much money and pays for his experience and equipment. I notice even the wheel-builders aren't safe from toy addition, high-end truing stands, spoke cutting machines etc . . . I love the idea you can make your own spokes.

i am a tinkerer. It's in my nature, i like fiddling with stuff. If you want to learn, get "A practical guide to wheelbuilding" by Roger Musson.

So is Aero the main area of technological push at the moment? I'm thinking there must be other areas open to innovation otherwise in 100 years wheels will almost still be the same but just thinner?

Aero is absolutely where it's going at the moment. It's probably the biggest change in wheel technology since the freehub replaced the screw on freewheel, and it makes much more performance difference than that

I've been using Mavic Open Sports also, mainly because they come in silver but also they are very cost effective (around £20 in sale), unfortunately as my weight started creeping over 250lbs the rear 32x3 just couldn't take it and kept going out of true, eventually spokes started snapping which when you are miles out in the countryside is no laughing matter, one broken spoke effectively rendered my rear wheel unusable as the wheel just warped and jammed against the chain stay. On my older hybrid frame this wouldn't have been such an issue as the rear triangle was designed to accommodate very thick 48c tyres so would allow a wheel to continue spinning even when out of true but the geometry on a road frame which is expecting a maximum of 32c tires doesn't allow a wheel to work once it's out of true . .

I had the rear wheel rebuilt twice but the same thing kept happening, eventually I figured my load was too great and had a new rear wheel built using a 36-hole Mavic A319 with some monster Sapim strong spokes, it's been rolling for over 6 months and is still almost mint.

My wheel builder said Mavic Open Sports can be a bit hit and miss, a lot of the wheels he builds using this rim have no problems but he does get a few call-backs, mainly from the heavier riders like myself, I did try to look at the technical papers from Mavic but still don't have concrete figures of what "load" the various wheel can handle, I seem to remember it was in the region of 250lbs.

the open sport only has cheap going for it really. It's strong enough for my 80-some KG and a pannier bag and i dont worry about wearing it out

Another thing I discovered is that disk brakes put a strange torsion load on the side of the wheel where the rotor is, the Mavic Open-Sport/A319 are sold as rim brake rims so may not be ideal for a hulk using disk brakes, I couldn't find a disk break specific rim that was sold in Silver? . . . I don't understand why RIMs have such basic colour choices compared to hubs and spokes?


Anyways I wouldn't picking your brains about 700c disk break wheels, you mention you have built a fair few wheels so chances are not all of them were for rim brakes only.

In the wheel builders guide it says the spoke tension must be increased on the drive side, I'm assuming this is because the load of the gears but I've yet to hear about spoke tension adjustments for disk brake wheels, I'm sure the forces at play are stronger on the rotor side of the wheel.

Disk brakes aren't something i consider necessary on a road bike, but disk-specific rims are starting to appear now. There's a disk version of the DT R460 that looks like great value


You mentioned that if you look after a hub it will last many times the life of the rim but your talking about rim brakes yeah? . . . On a disk break wheel I have found it to be the other way round, I actually went through a couple of hubs as the spokes were ripping out the hub flanges and distorting the holes so effectively destroying the hub.

I suppose a properly specc'ed and built disk brake wheel could last a very long time as the rim will be untouched by anything apart from a little road spray and twigs.

Yep, a well specced, well maintained disc wheel is essentially a forever item

The two year old 32x3 Mavic Open Sport front wheel is still working fine although it needs truing every 9 months, I'm thinking I may try out an Open-PRO next time I come to upgrade, any thoughts on the main difference between the sport and Pro (£20 vs £35/£40 quids).

I'm not sure I will be building wheels this year but I damn sure will start to carry spare spokes with me if cycling out into the wilderness, you never realise how bad a broken spoke can be until it happens, miles from home, knackered, cold and a cycle with a wheel that looks like a boomerang.

i like open pro, but i'd probably look at the h plus son archetype instead...

Look at this photo below, a Red Bus clipped me as I was cycling home from just having my cycle serviced, I walked away with a sore bottom and had to carry my cycle back to the shop. trashed my wheel and bent my alloy frame, total damage cost £300 thanks TFL!

Any tips for constructing a bus proof wheel! :p

03_Crash_Damage_TFL5043246.jpg

No protecting against that....
 
I think it's more to do with the width of the cassette rather than increased load. The drive side spokes dont go to the outer edge of the hub like the non-drive side so they are shorter and meet the rim at a different angle so the need to be tensioned differently
I'm not sure, are you talking about a rim brake hub or disk break hub? The spokes are not the same length for sure but I don't think this is the reason for increasing tension on the drive side? All the propulsion energy travel down the chain into the wheel which surely exerts strain on the drive side, its a torsion force right? If thats correct all the spokes would eventually come loose on the drive side, hence the increased tension?

I'm not sure torch, I only know the basics but I know disk brake wheels are not the same beast as rim brake wheels, all the braking force on a rim brake wheel hits the rim and travels equally down through both sets of spokes to the hub, on a disk break wheel all the breaking force hits the outside of the hub and travels up mainly through the rotor side spokes to the rim. The Torsion forces exerted on a disk break wheel is not properly understood yet, at least I have never met a wheel builder who is also a major in classical mechanics that has been able to explain it to me . . .

I just have to keep swapping hardware out and learn from mistakes, trial and error if you will . . .

It's not worth taking spokes with you IMO. You'd need a few different sizes for a start then you'd also need tools to remove the cassette or disk rotor - depending on which side your broken spoke is.
Take a spoke tool and adjust the tension on the other spokes to straighten it up as much as possible around the broken spoke - then ride it very gently home.
Yeah I see your point but other than lugging around extra spokes, an additional cassette tool, whip and spanner the only other choice is to strap a spare wheel on your back, of course sods laws is bound to happen and your front wheel breaks when your packing a spare rear wheel!

Have you had a spoke break touch? I don't see any other way to cycle 200k into the wilderness without having spares on you, especially audax where you meant to be self sufficient. I know it doesn't happen a lot if the wheel is spec'ed and built properly but once it does happen and you get caught out you get "the fear" :eek:
 
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