Who here owns a Subaru?

Yes, but this particular example, I've practically argued with the guy. He doesn't feel that fitting a K&N Typhoon induction kit warrants a remap on any Subaru, to the point that he wouldn't acknowledge it until I pressed him on Facebook.

That most likely lead to its early death IMO. But I've got no doubt that mine will blow the way I've been driving it :D
 
Last edited:
Vita said:
So if you add a k&n to a Subaru it needs a map? If not the engine will blow?
Click to expand...

Potentially, it can have a massive affect on MAF voltage scaling, and cause the engine to massively lean.

In fact ANY turbocharged car with a MAF should at least be checked on a dyno after fitting an intake
 
Yea, amazing how sensitive some engines are to it. Occasionally look at one for the Forester but, besides the fact the OEM airbox is exceptionally good and benefits are fractional, it too would need a tune.
 
The guy in the ScoobyNet thread is an absolute tool.

What does he expect when he's increased the area of the pipework housing probably the second most critical engine sensor by 25%
 
Frozennova said:
Potentially, it can have a massive affect on MAF voltage scaling, and cause the engine to massively lean.

In fact ANY turbocharged car with a MAF should at least be checked on a dyno after fitting an intake
Click to expand...

Wow. I knew subies ran a little lean from factory but didn't expect an air filter to make that much of a difference.
 
Vita said:
Wow. I knew subies ran a little lean from factory but didn't expect an air filter to make that much of a difference.
Click to expand...

Compared to a lot of stuff they run quite rich, but I think they're quite sensitive to the heat caused by going leaner (At least the 2litres do)

Stock 2005 STI depending on RPM is targeting anything from 9.5:1 to 10.2 IIRC

The MX5 I run as lean as 11.8:1 and I've done pulls with it as lean as 12.5:1ish with no ill affects.

Tuning my Dad's STI I've been conservative and gone no leaner than 11:1:1
 
L0rdMike said:
I got the guys missing ring at the 30min mark :p
Click to expand...

i watched his other two videos but fell asleep during his 2nd :D.............but they're bookmarked just in case i buy a WRX STI, because if so, i'm deffo replacing the short block with a Stage 2 or similar, even on a brand new car, because i'm reading too many horror stories all over the web not to do so:eek:

i dont think you need a closed deck, you just need to make sure the bottom end is all forged with quality parts.
 
You mention closed block Mal, I've not done much research into this but what's the typical design for the 2.0 and 2.5?

EJ207 semi, EJ257 open? Did they change between years?
 
agw_01 said:
You mention closed block Mal, I've not done much research into this but what's the typical design for the 2.0 and 2.5?

EJ207 semi, EJ257 open? Did they change between years?
Click to expand...

i'm no expert but it strengthens the short block around the cylinders, makes the piston bores stiffer and more rigid.... because the standard block is open around the cylinder bores at the top end as you'll see in the link below............it's probably not needed unless you go above 400 plus HP, but it should save you all the hassle that others are having........gives you peace of mind.

i'm refering to the 2017 WRX STI, i'm not sure about any other Subaru engine though

https://www.iagperformance.com/2017-Subaru-STI-Staged-Engine-Blocks-s/29578.htm
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom