Who owns a Mondeo ST220 / ST TDCI?

geez that's terrible.
14mpg for 200bhp.
all that money on fuel what a waste.

Yes but at least the ST220 has abit of character and stands out unlike most big cars in its category and price range. The Recaros look and feel fantastic to sit in on long journeys, it's comfy and also fun to drive wen u want to floor it. And even though I have a long commute the sound of the V6 is worth the extra in petrol costs to me than having to listen to wat sounds like a bag of spanners on startup then a tractor the rest of the time with black fog trailing behind me on the motorway :D
14mpg is shocking though. I get 26mpg on mostly motorway but when I drive round town the mpg drops a lot.
 
I've tried to tell my garage about this issue and whilst they said they checked everything, I get the feeling they didn't exactly remove the offending rubber pipe!

They suspected an injector might be on it's way out and put in some cleaner and said to give it a bit of a drive around over the weekend. The stuttering at the low end of the revs is definitely a lot less... Sometimes it almost seems like it's fixed but then I get a bit again. One thing which hasn't changed is the flatspot in power at around 4-5K RPM

With some spirited driving, I got the engine management light to pop on a few times (20-30 seconds at the most) but then as soon as I eased off the light went off. The mechanic checked today and there were no codes left in the logs which seems odd?
I'm tempted to just get them to change the pipe regardless for the sake of £30ish!

You sorted the problem yet?
 
If I filled up mine with petrol and then reset the average MPG after, and drove a few miles home through town/villages with traffic lights and such, it'd be sitting at 18-20mpg. But that's when the engine is warm. If he has a 4 mile commute or something, the engine will have barely warmed up by the time he gets to/from work.
 
The mpg on mine has dropped by around 10% all of a sudden - around the same time my brakes have started squeaking occasionally. Typically, the garage couldn't get them to squeak yesterday.

They did however notice a bit of brake fluid weeping from one of the rear callipers. Should I get both rears replaced and the handbrake cable while I'm at it? They'll be 10 years old now.
 
i'm currently getting 24mpg with avg speed of 24mph. if this scales it means I should get 70mpg at 70mph :D

last 2 tanks I've been trying V-power while fuel is cheap, atm not noticed anything different but ill try for another few more tankful's before I just go back to 95.

someone mentioned earlier in the thread they get 2mpg more with 99 but I've yet to see it.
 
That may have been me. I get between 1 and 2mpg more with Momentum99 over standard (Tesco). I haven't checked it against today's prices but it did used to work out cheaper slightly.
 

Yes that's correct. Make sure you get the Alpine patch lead too.




I've used these calipers and they're fine.
 
Thanks Howard - as you can see from below that saves me quite a lot!
  • Local Frauds (OEM): £370 each
  • FordPartsUK.com (OEM): £190 delivered + £30 surcharge
  • FordPartsUK.com (Repair Kit - no carriers): £122 delivered
  • Local garage (OEM): £253
  • Local garage (Lucas): £144
  • ECP (Pagid): £87 + £36 surcharge
At ECP prices I'm happy to get both rears done at the same time. I also want to get the rear handbrake cables replaced. Again some big price differences:
  • Local Frauds (OEM): £60 each
  • FordPartsUK.com (OEM): £48 delivered
  • Local garage: £58
  • ECP (Pagid): £15
The Pagid cables look a bit naff to me compared to OEM so gonna pay the premium for OEM unless there's another brand I should look at?

Edit: Ordered the Pagid calipers from ECP and OEM cables from FordPartsUK. Also ordered a complete set of jacking point covers as my current ones keep getting knocked off and new rear Ford badge as mine's corroded.
 
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Na, still a bit ropy. It's better after having put some cleaner through it but I'm waiting for my local mechanic to have a bit of time to get that pipe checked/swapped :/

do you know how easy it is to remove and check? very...no tools required, you pull it off from behind the upper inlet manifold (just behind the top part of the engine), then pull the other end out from the right hand side of engine (you just need to remove the plastic engine cover to get to this part).
 
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