Who's in to electric RC cars?

Lithium said:
Get something like a venom failsafe - if you lose power or the thing loses reception from your transmitter it will do what you set it to do. I set mine to slam the brakes on :)
Ahh well i solved that problem in a much simpler way... used a spring on the thottle servo. Thats was after a particularly nasty encounter with a caravan...
 
Im not racing at a competitive level at the moment as I'm at uni, I'm going back to the national stuff next year though :)


Its all 1/10th electric;

Touring
Not a fan of touring cars, but its cheap and keeping my skills sharpish while im at uni.
HP RS4 Pro2 - Old but still cuts the mustard
Xray T1 - Awesome
Some Gash Schumacher rally thing I won at Worksop one year.

2WD Buggies
2WD buggies is my class, I love them, there awesome, I had my best results at national stuff in 2WD.
1xRC10 B2 - Shelf Queen
3xRC10 B3
-One has a modified chassis with lowerd batteries and Servo
-One a pure outdoor grass car
-One car specifically for Indoor
The B3 has been superceded by the B4 now, I probably won't migrate untill I run out of spares, so I'll run at least my return season with b3's probably the ne after too.

4WD Buggies A very expensive class with these cars, awesome though!
2xPredators ETQ's - Amazing cars, though I hope to upgrade to the new Predator X10 when I graduate (I'm ordering it when I walk out my Cisco exam!). Preds are like the f1 cars of the Model car scene, Inboard double wishbone suspension, tempermental gearboxes (fixed on the X10), shaft driven and ridiculesly high cost and maintenence but truely Awesome - If I have to race at a 4wd National when I go back to competition level, one of these will be in the arsenal.

2xYokomo MX4's - Old car now, but it was Yokomo's last pure buggy that was designed from the ground up as a buggy and not based off there touring car chassis. 1 of these is full competition spec, full carbon fibre and titanium, belt driven. These cars never really took off in the UK, though with love an attention to detail in setup they could match anything else out there.




As you probably noticed, I'm just a little obsessed.
 
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I've had two of these :

ARTF6410.jpg


Im detemined to get one that actually lasts more than 5 minutes!

First one was on an under powered sp600 motor. It went up ok, but i had problems getting control, it was VERY twitchy, if i went left it would almost roll over, so i left it in a slow level turn, it hit the top of a tree and got destroyed!

Second one i stuck a big brushless outrunner in, WOW it was fun :) Until the tail snapped in half during a big manouver...dodgy chinese manufacturing :(

Most exhilerating plane i've ever flown!
 
I wouldn't dare fly a an RC plane. For one I know I'd try and do inverted fly by's at 4 feet off the deck and crash the thing. Then when it did and I realised how much money it would cost I wouldn't bother fixing it. Same with Helicopters, I know if I got one I'd crash it before I got it off the ground, again causing a big dent to the wallet. I'd like to be able to fly them good, but I'd hate to deal with the inevitable crash.

At least with cars and trucks when I crash I flip it back on its wheels and drive off again no sweat. :p
 
AthlonTom said:
As you probably noticed, I'm just a little obsessed.


What cells do you use? I dunno but most classes of RC sport have limits on the size/weight. Im waiting for some elite3600's - a lot of reports these things hold their voltage a lot better than GP's
 
GlasgowTitan said:
At least with cars and trucks when I crash I flip it back on its wheels and drive off again no sweat. :p

PLanes aint so good for your wallet :( The good thing is most of the internals are fairly sturdy and it tends to be just the plane that breaks - and they arent so expensive.

The most expensive plane i've got is £90 fibreglass thingy - its the batts/motors etc.. that end up costing £300-400 and i've never broken any of those!
 
Lithium said:
What cells do you use? I dunno but most classes of RC sport have limits on the size/weight. Im waiting for some elite3600's - a lot of reports these things hold their voltage a lot better than GP's

When I stopped racing competitively I had 26 packs of 2400's (£52.50 a pack!!!!), though there all fit for the bin now, so I've got some generic 3700's to tide me over. Will go to matched cells when the next outdoor season rolls around.
 
AthlonTom said:
When I stopped racing competitively I had 26 packs of 2400's (£52.50 a pack!!!!), though there all fit for the bin now, so I've got some generic 3700's to tide me over. Will go to matched cells when the next outdoor season rolls around.

£52?? Must have been hand picked matched + zapped top quality cells for that price????
 
Lithium said:
£52?? Must have been hand picked matched + zapped top quality cells for that price????

It was the BRCA limit at the time, though its gone up now, didnt 3800's get approved at the last AGM? There going to be awesome! (Though not as aweome as LIPO + Brushless)

EDIT: they were Team Orion VMAX, and the Corrally topspec cells (cant remeber the name)
 
GlasgowTitan said:
I wouldn't dare fly a an RC plane. For one I know I'd try and do inverted fly by's at 4 feet off the deck and crash the thing. Then when it did and I realised how much money it would cost I wouldn't bother fixing it. Same with Helicopters, I know if I got one I'd crash it before I got it off the ground, again causing a big dent to the wallet. I'd like to be able to fly them good, but I'd hate to deal with the inevitable crash.

At least with cars and trucks when I crash I flip it back on its wheels and drive off again no sweat. :p

I accually find it costs me more to repair my cars then my planes. :) Normally you can get away with a bit of glue with planes. :p


Well guys, i have no clues on what cells are allowed for racing but at the moment you either want GP4300's or IB4200's. I have also heard good things about the Elite 4300's which are also quite a bit cheaper then the other ones. $47.40 can get you a 6 cell Elitee4300 pack from www.cheapbatterypacks.com . I havent ever been charged import from them aswell. Another useful site is www.maxamps.com

eb4300vsib4200.jpg
 
Where do you lot get your r/c stuff from?
I've used tower hobbies in the us before and they were good, but shipping is very expensive and customs charge extra for shipping on top.
In the uk i've seen apex and modelsport but they often don't have the stuff i want.
Are there any decent uk shops around?
 
Joe42 said:
Where do you lot get your r/c stuff from?
I've used tower hobbies in the us before and they were good, but shipping is very expensive and customs charge extra for shipping on top.
In the uk i've seen apex and modelsport but they often don't have the stuff i want.
Are there any decent uk shops around?
Just use your local hobbyshop for stuff you cant get off modelsport or apex, they can order just about anything in as long as they know you can pay it.
 
AthlonTom said:
Just use your local hobbyshop for stuff you cant get off modelsport or apex, they can order just about anything in as long as they know you can pay it.
I used to do that but it costs a fortune. I wish we had a giant discount r/c store like tower hobbies in the uk...
 
Joe42 said:
Where do you lot get your r/c stuff from?
I've used tower hobbies in the us before and they were good, but shipping is very expensive and customs charge extra for shipping on top.
In the uk i've seen apex and modelsport but they often don't have the stuff i want.
Are there any decent uk shops around?

Try using www.modelsinmotion.co.uk and www.microtechracing.com for car bits. Between the 4 you usually can get everything you need.
 
Doing a bit of searching on the forums and found this :)

I've just returned to racing and running currently got:

Losi XXCR Kinwald - Still race it
Associated B4 - raced it at Petit RC 2010
Schumacher Cat SX, nice bit of kit just a bit fiddly.

The new brushless motors with LIPOs are fantastic.

www.oople.com is a good site.
 
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