Worth paying more for an Audi over a Skoda?

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
  • coolant level low
So to me that says there's a coolant leak and it hasn't been fixed and they're just topping coolant up to keep things going. Hmmm. I've emailed to ask for proof of receipts for any fixes that have taken place to resolve that issue.
I've got a 2022 cupra Leon with the 2.0L petrol engine. It threw a warning light a couple of times and it gradually started becoming more frequent to the extent that it was every week I was putting in 1/2 litre of coolant.
I was in a VW garage and the service guy said there was a known problem where there was a leak coming form the water pump housing. Mine is currently in getting a warranty repair and was told this morning one of the parts required is on back order to Spain and not to expect it for 2-3 weeks.
Unfortunately I don't know if that Octavia has the same engine.
 
I didn't go and see the Octavia. The dealer said the car would be repaired prior to me purchasing it however my wife and I decided why buy a car knowing it has an issue and one that could take time to figure out what the issue is. I'm aware of the water pump issues but there are other leak points in a 2.0 Octavia too and I didn't want to end up having to to and throw from a garage with a just bought car.

The MHEV would be OK for us I think. I've no plan to go electric but think I could live with a mild hybrid. Loads of things cost a lot to fix on modern cars. My gearbox rebuild / clutch replacement a few years ago cost a four figure value. One thing I don't like with the Audis are their engine mounts. Stupid oil filled things that can crack, leak and fail. I replaced mine on my current Audi with H34 solid ones. I had a little more cabin noise but no more sagging engine mounts at least. I'm unsure though if the newer engine mounts are also wired up to the ECU and if swapped for solid mounts an error would be permanently displayed on the dash?
 
I'm not sure what your expectations are but I doubt most people could tell they were driving one if they didn't already know. It's not a Toyota Prius.
That's what I meant, I'd not even notice it had any electrical assistance and why I said I could live with a mild hybrid :D

I have driven a PHEV before in the past, I didn't like that engine setup or the way it drove at all.
 
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i test drove an 2016 A6 ultra Sline and a 16 Superb sport line both with 70k miles the Superb was more money but had more toys as standard than the A6 but ended up with the A6 as it was over a grand cheaper
 
can't you sense the mhev from a smoother gear change it's replacing the torque convertor, filling in the power during change;
I thought phev electric motor is in the same place in drivetrain but much more beefed up with a clutch isolating from ICE .... I'm sure someone will correct me.

Although local garage had an avant sline A4 I'vr crossed sline of my list, versus standard suspension, too many Cambs pot-holes and they apparently take their toll on those aluminium suspension parts
(well the steel ball joiints etc)
 
MHEV assist the engine so how exactly can it torque fill?! It’s not a separate motor.

Clueless.
just for you jonny, clocked a 101 on mhev architecture, coincidentally uses the word torque fill - something new for your vocab

but below was more interesting

For example, if the driver demands 100 Nm of torque at 2500 rpm, to maintain a constant vehicle speed, the engine is running at a low efficiency, where BFSC is 455 g/kWh. In order to increase the efficiency of the engine, the electric machine is set in generator mode (and charge the battery), with a load torque of -150 Nm.

To compensate for the additional electric load, the engine torque is increased to 250 Nm. The same crankshaft torque level is maintained (250 – 150 = 100 Nm), increasing in the same time the efficiency of the engine, with the BFSC at 320 g/kWh. Thus, the engine load (torque) was shifted from 100 Nm to 250 Nm with an increase in efficiency.

...
 
You need to know how the MHEV application has been deployed in each car before suggesting such statements.

The VAST majority of MHEV are 24V or 48V Belt Integrated Starter Generators (BISG) that are simply powerful bi-directional alternators and nothing more.

Please dont try to correct me with a Goggle link, its a really poor form as usual. I'm more than familiar with torque fill which is why my 144V C-ISG 2001 Honda Insight doesn't have it, as i know how the IMA system under the bonnet actual works. IMA is Integrated Motor Assist. I think this proves you still need IGA... G for Google.

can't you sense the mhev from a smoother gear change it's replacing the torque convertor, filling in the power during change;
I thought phev electric motor is in the same place in drivetrain but much more beefed up with a clutch isolating from ICE .... I'm sure someone will correct me.

No.
There no fee for todays lesson Pope.


BMW-48-volt-MHEV-technology.jpg

rrevq20myinfographicmhevv3221118enin.jpg
 
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To put an end to my thread I'll be picking up a new car on Friday. A 2020 Volvo V90 from my local Volvo dealer. I'd have liked a 2020 model or newer T5 however these seem pretty hard to come by so we've settled on a T4. I'm unsure if Polestar and Volvo are still in bed with each other as I'd look into the Polestar upgrade if so just to give the T4's mid-range a bit more oomph whilst still being able to retain the Volvo warranty. It's a great wafting along machine, comfy, quiet etc. One thing I am getting caught out with is £600 tax for two years though as the car cost over £40k brand new. There were no V60s locally that took my fancy, which is a shame as it has enough boot space for us I think, we are just getting to the 'desperate' end of the scale when it comes to getting a new car. My plan is to keep this car for as long, if not longer than my current Audi, which I've had for over 11 years and is 20 years old. I would hope to get 16 years out of the Volvo easily. I just hope the V90 doesn't end up being too big, it is a very long car, to make it a pain parking etc.
 
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I'm back and a little bit gutted. I went to pick up the V90 today. There was a delay as the bumper needed re-spraying and was meant to be complete prior to my holiday alas it wasn't. Volvo's paint shop need some more training, there were numerous blemishes, a nice scratch and a few rough bits on the bumper, not a great start. I know that I could get those all sorted though after a chat so I went and completed all the paperwork. I then went out to drive off and on opening the door the smell, oh wow. A valeter has used something mixed to the wrong ratios they think inside the car or stood on something and transferred it into the car. The mat has taken the brunt alas it has also contaminated some of the are of the drivers footwell, mostly around the foot rest. The foot rest was wet with whatever it is. After being sat in the sun the smell was chemical like (mix of WD40 / Brasso / something else solventy) and made me feel nauseous. I'm not sure how they'll get rid of the smell but for now I've asked for a full refund, which Volvo have accepted as they don't know how long it'll take to sort it out properly. The other thing is to check it is sorted a hot day is required to heat up the inside of the car as that'll be the point in time when the worst smell happens, if it'll happen. I also don't want my family sitting in a chemically enhanced atmosphere inside the car! I've said I'll take a look again once sorted if I've found nothing else but it just sits a bit uneasy with me ref the chems. What do you all think?

What a way to trash a lovely car....

So I'm back to square one now :( I could do without the stress this has caused right now what with other issues going on in my family.
 
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Sounds like you quickly acted and rejected it, good for you, out of pocket for the time you've spent and new insurance cover.

My experience of local garage is that they do seem to use poor quality products/techniques for interior valetting - saw a 3touring a couple of months ago and they had used god knows what product on the seats and interior dash,
seats slippery with some silicon based product, their fascination for wet look tyres too, especially on a honda with Goodride tyres.
 
Sounds like you quickly acted and rejected it, good for you, out of pocket for the time you've spent and new insurance cover.

My experience of local garage is that they do seem to use poor quality products/techniques for interior valetting - saw a 3touring a couple of months ago and they had used god knows what product on the seats and interior dash,
seats slippery with some silicon based product, their fascination for wet look tyres too, especially on a honda with Goodride tyres.

There's no chance I'd have my family sitting in the car with those fumes. Horrible. Silicone was mentioned, it may be a solvent based silicone something that has got inside somehow. I don't understand the wet look tyres either, ridiculous look in my opinion too.

I lost out on some time yes and £15 on insurance as that went live on August 9th when I was originally meant to pick the car up. I guess I'll lose some tax to as I can't get refunded on that until the V5 document turns up at my house.

If I end up with a Volvo and using them for servicing etc I will be requesting NO valeting. No chance now!
 
Almost all of of the eco engines are now. Self disintegrating wet belts and slowly choked to death by filters. Unfortunately, the likelihood of having to replace an engine in the long-term isn't part of emissions tests.
 
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following on from (gucci?) belts I'd shown skepticism of mild hybrid systems - interesting analysis of the reliability issues that may/has brought on in the famous bmw b48 340
from https://g05.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2120679

So I'm back to square one now
looking for a newer car is worse than looking for a house - completed in about 4 months, but am up to 6months now for car - boring.
 
It shouldn't take 6 months to find an ordinary 3 Series estate. If you can't find one in 6 months you're never going to find what you want and should probably look elsewhere.
 
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