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X2 3800+ or 4200+
- Thread starter doodah
- Start date
That stepping seems to clock ok depending on other bits of the steppin after lcbke
http://www.amdgeeks.net/steppings/50
http://www.amdgeeks.net/steppings/50
Make sure its got load of heat pipes, i think them usually are te bees knees. Like my freezer 64pro. Tho i supose if i had money to burn id get a cooler that could fit a 120mm fan on easily. Better cooling with less needed rpm on the fan needed then.
Well mine using everest stress test my cores are going to 50. So i dont think this will overclock much as if its 35 idle and 50 load at stock just imagine what 2.8ghz will do to the temps, probably 60+ 
Grr.. Perhaps i messed up the application of mx 1 paste on, i did a thin later hardly anything really just made it look bit greyer but saw lettering still so as i said not much on. Bit on the hsf then a tiny blob half a grain of rice perhaps in center of cpu then put cpu in and hsf on then went and booted up. Surely not much was on that tho surely.
Grr.. Perhaps i messed up the application of mx 1 paste on, i did a thin later hardly anything really just made it look bit greyer but saw lettering still so as i said not much on. Bit on the hsf then a tiny blob half a grain of rice perhaps in center of cpu then put cpu in and hsf on then went and booted up. Surely not much was on that tho surely.
SkeeterPSA said:
If you can find one, you might like an Akasa EVO 120. They are cheap for what they are, in my opinion, and use a solid copper base with heatpipes to move heat away from the motherboard to a large collection of fins a couple of inches above the board. That allows for a far larger heatsink than would otherwise be possible - if it was part of the base section, it would foul components on any motherboard. The fins section has a 120mm Akasa Ultra Quiet ("Amber") fan mounted "behind" it, so the heat from the fins is blown towards the rear of the case. Not only do you reduce noise by using a decent 120mm fan, you reduce noise more by being able to remove your rear case exhaust fan. It comes with a fan controller, but it's rather inconveniently mounted at the back of the PC, where the rear of a card would be. I haven't found a good reason to have mine above minimum speed, which is 1200rpm IIRC and inaudible more than a foot away.
MX-1 instructions are to put about 8% of a standard size tube as a single blob in the centre of the IHS on the chip and, very explicitly, to not spread any MX-1 anywhere. Then put the heatsink on and wiggle it slightly clockwise and anticlockwise.SkeeterPSA said:Well mine using everest stress test my cores are going to 50. So i dont think this will overclock much as if its 35 idle and 50 load at stock just imagine what 2.8ghz will do to the temps, probably 60+
Grr.. Perhaps i messed up the application of mx 1 paste on, i did a thin later hardly anything really just made it look bit greyer but saw lettering still so as i said not much on. Bit on the hsf then a tiny blob half a grain of rice perhaps in center of cpu then put cpu in and hsf on then went and booted up. Surely not much was on that tho surely.
Which I don't think can be done on mine. The heatsink is screwed on, so I don't think there is any play in it when fitted.
EDIT: MX-1 instructions for anyone who's interested.
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Asrock Dual SATA 2 m/b, the one with the ALi/ULi 1695 chipset. At the time, I wanted support for both AGP and PCI-E and that was the only board that really supported both (as opposed to jury-rigging a fake AGP from two PCI).SkeeterPSA said:
2x512MB of ordinary Crucial PC3200 CAS3.
I'm sure it's the m/b. Even if I drop the CPU multi, drop the RAM divider and drop the HTT multi to ensure that everything is running well under spec with a HTT base speed of 251, it's still unstable.
No complaints, really. The board was very cheap, does everything it's supposed to do, works reliably and will manage a 25% overclock. That's not at all bad.
Anyone else got mx 1 from ocuk.
supose to be this tube but i got a non lable very thin (half thickness) comapred to this one
Woundering if somit wrong with my mx 1 i bought as in not legit? Had same black packaging tho just wrong tube shape etc.
supose to be this tube but i got a non lable very thin (half thickness) comapred to this one
Woundering if somit wrong with my mx 1 i bought as in not legit? Had same black packaging tho just wrong tube shape etc.
Mine's the same as yours. Different tube, different packaging. The overall style of the cardboard inlay is the same and the claims are the same (though differently placed - e.g. the ISO 9001 certification claim is on the back of my packaging).
I think that Arctic Cooling have revised the shape of the tube, making it much longer and much thinner. The paste is noted for having a very high viscosity - perhaps a thinner tube would make it easier to apply? That forced a revision of the cardboard inlay, as the longer tube would have obscured the "AC" logo on the other inlay, and they used that to make other revisions, such as adding the "Please consult our installation instructions" message to the front.
EDIT: Having said that, I cannot find any indication that they did so. All images of MX-1, including those on Actic Cooling's own website, show a thicker tube with the AC logo on it. I'm not sure what the situation is.
I think that Arctic Cooling have revised the shape of the tube, making it much longer and much thinner. The paste is noted for having a very high viscosity - perhaps a thinner tube would make it easier to apply? That forced a revision of the cardboard inlay, as the longer tube would have obscured the "AC" logo on the other inlay, and they used that to make other revisions, such as adding the "Please consult our installation instructions" message to the front.
EDIT: Having said that, I cannot find any indication that they did so. All images of MX-1, including those on Actic Cooling's own website, show a thicker tube with the AC logo on it. I'm not sure what the situation is.
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I had the same! Picked up a tube of MX-1 yesterday with my X2 4200+ and it was also just a long thin, un-labelled syringe. The packaging was the same as the pics though.
I think it's just a case of AC altering the packaging, nothing more.
I think it's just a case of AC altering the packaging, nothing more.
Are you sure that the packaging is the same as on the pic? It isn't on the tube I bought from OcUK yesterday. Very similar, but not the same. If it was the same, then the "AC" logo would be obscured by the top of the much longer tube.
EDIT: I think this warrants its own thread rather than diverting this one. I'll start one in the cooling forum.
EDIT: I think this warrants its own thread rather than diverting this one. I'll start one in the cooling forum.
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dont worry about temps
these late steppings run hot anyway, mine was up arround 70-80c core1 under water when oc'd to 2.9ghz. lapping took of about 10c from core 1 (nothing core2, which was 60-70c) de-capping got them down to high 50's upgrading from koolance to custom got to mid-low 50's (with water temp of about 24c!)
if its passing orthos for extended periods it will be ok.
these late steppings run hot anyway, mine was up arround 70-80c core1 under water when oc'd to 2.9ghz. lapping took of about 10c from core 1 (nothing core2, which was 60-70c) de-capping got them down to high 50's upgrading from koolance to custom got to mid-low 50's (with water temp of about 24c!)
if its passing orthos for extended periods it will be ok.
Dammit! I've fitted my X2 3800, installed the X2 processor driver and the dual core optimiser (I'm not going to bother with the MS hotfix unless I encounter problems).
One minor problem, one major (to me).
i) Fitting an EVO 120 on a board in the case is a pain in the backside because lining up the cooler with the screw holes from the backplate is difficult when you can't see. I smeared the thermal paste around much more than I wanted to, wiggling the blasted thing around to line it up properly.
ii) My PC is now definitely noisier and has developed an annoying hum. Cue jokes about teaching it a less annoying tune.
I did a lot of dusting while I had the case open. I took the fan off the heatsink to clean it better. I think I might not have screwed it down quite tight enough, resulting in some resonance. Or it might be some cabling in the way of airflow.
Weirdly, my hard drive is now a lot noisier. That is odd, as I didn't touch it.
My SATA RAID setting in the BIOS has been re-enabled. It's been years since I changed a CPU on the same board - would the BIOS have been reset to defaults?
CPU-Z initially reported my second core as running at 1.0MHz. A bit of a glitch, I think
Hmm...I'm running S&M at maximum dual core test and temps have topped out at 52/62. That is with all fans at minimum speed, but I'm not happy with it because that's at stock!
One minor problem, one major (to me).
i) Fitting an EVO 120 on a board in the case is a pain in the backside because lining up the cooler with the screw holes from the backplate is difficult when you can't see. I smeared the thermal paste around much more than I wanted to, wiggling the blasted thing around to line it up properly.
ii) My PC is now definitely noisier and has developed an annoying hum. Cue jokes about teaching it a less annoying tune.
I did a lot of dusting while I had the case open. I took the fan off the heatsink to clean it better. I think I might not have screwed it down quite tight enough, resulting in some resonance. Or it might be some cabling in the way of airflow.
Weirdly, my hard drive is now a lot noisier. That is odd, as I didn't touch it.
My SATA RAID setting in the BIOS has been re-enabled. It's been years since I changed a CPU on the same board - would the BIOS have been reset to defaults?
CPU-Z initially reported my second core as running at 1.0MHz. A bit of a glitch, I think
Hmm...I'm running S&M at maximum dual core test and temps have topped out at 52/62. That is with all fans at minimum speed, but I'm not happy with it because that's at stock!
Managed to fit the chip on Friday night. I can't get the system stable at 2400 Mhz though and I think it is the RAM's fault.
At 2400Mhz it doesn't matter how many volts I put through it (up to 1.5v) it fails the Orthos blend test after a few minutes. It does however pass the CPU only FFT test (left it for over an hour without any problems). It fails te RAM test quite quickly at those speeds.
Now my RAM is Crucial Ballistix PC3200 (400Mhz, 2x512Mb). It runs at stock 200Mhz quite happily with the timings 2-2-2-6. At 240Mhz HTT I simply ran the ram at 333Mhz divider so that it would be running at in spec. However at those timings it obviously doesn't like it. I then slackened the timings to 3-3-3-8 and it didn't like that either. Any more suggestions for what settings I can runt he RAM at? I ran out of time on Friday to try any more.
The X2 seems like it has more than enough in it to reach > 2.4Ghz, I just can't get there with this RAM at the moment.
EDIT: Motherboard is the ASUS A8N-SLI-SE running latest 502 bios.
At 2400Mhz it doesn't matter how many volts I put through it (up to 1.5v) it fails the Orthos blend test after a few minutes. It does however pass the CPU only FFT test (left it for over an hour without any problems). It fails te RAM test quite quickly at those speeds.
Now my RAM is Crucial Ballistix PC3200 (400Mhz, 2x512Mb). It runs at stock 200Mhz quite happily with the timings 2-2-2-6. At 240Mhz HTT I simply ran the ram at 333Mhz divider so that it would be running at in spec. However at those timings it obviously doesn't like it. I then slackened the timings to 3-3-3-8 and it didn't like that either. Any more suggestions for what settings I can runt he RAM at? I ran out of time on Friday to try any more.
The X2 seems like it has more than enough in it to reach > 2.4Ghz, I just can't get there with this RAM at the moment.
EDIT: Motherboard is the ASUS A8N-SLI-SE running latest 502 bios.