Your current Fish tank Setups!

Jonny ///M said:
I know that now hence the water changes but did ask a shop that has a good reputation after about 10 days.

Does the fact that nitrates exist mean that it's getting there or the fact there is still nitrites and ammonia mean it's ******.?
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Nitrates are fine (and actually those levels look pretty good for tap water - mine is 40ppm straight from the tap), but yes nitrites and ammonia means it's ******. As said above, all you can do now is keep up with the water changes until it all settles (probably several more weeks until that happens).
 
I did a fish in cycle, as said before.. its cruel and it probably did half the lives of my fish i used. But i didn't know better
Keep up your water changes :)
 
Not sure if I've confused matters.

The far right is ammonia test in tap water only.

The 3 others are tank water, days previous we had 0 nitrate or nitrite so seeing some rise in them was why I asked here.
 
Unicorn said:
With regards to leaking seals on filters.. Fluval range leak if they're tilted ever so slightly when not pressurised but if they're kept upright it's solid. Not an issue when it's running though. Bizzare filters.
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I'm happy to report that the replacement filter (AquaManta EFX 200) is working perfectly, and is absolutely silent. Good flow rate too! Thanks to using old media the tank is already cycled (pH 6.5, and levels remaining at 0ppm ammonia and 0ppm nitrite, 10ppm nitrate. The fish are happy as pigs in the proverbial now. :)

NoobCannon said:
Just stick with the daily water changes. Only thing u can do now untill the ammonia dissapears
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With fish in-situ and with ammonia building up, I'd personally be dosing the tank with Seachem Prime and Tetra SafeStart every 24 hours for a week or so. The former will instantly bind any existing ammonia and nitrite making it harmless to fish, while leaving it in a bio-available form for the filter bacteria to consume. The latter will help quickly seed the filter and 'flood' the tank with nitrifying bacteria of the correct species (not all products contain the right species) to eat what ammonia and nitrite there is. Win/win.

Jonny///M if you decide to do that, keep up the water changes and be aware it will provide false positive readings for a few days on the API test kit you're using, due to the method it uses to determine ammonia content. Regardless, the water will in fact be harmless to fish. Basically dose with Prime daily (as directed on the bottle) and add filter bacteria and wait. No need to test for that week because the Prime will have bound anything harmful anyway. I have cycled tanks from sky high ammonia and nitrite to 0/0 with climbing nitrate in about a week before now easily using this method.
 
Rainmaker said:
I'm happy to report that the replacement filter (AquaManta EFX 200) is working perfectly, and is absolutely silent. Good flow rate too! Thanks to using old media the tank is already cycled (pH 6.5, and levels remaining at 0ppm ammonia and 0ppm nitrite, 10ppm nitrate. The fish are happy as pigs in the proverbial now. :)



With fish in-situ and with ammonia building up, I'd personally be dosing the tank with Seachem Prime and Tetra SafeStart every 24 hours for a week or so. The former will instantly bind any existing ammonia and nitrite making it harmless to fish, while leaving it in a bio-available form for the filter bacteria to consume. The latter will help quickly seed the filter and 'flood' the tank with nitrifying bacteria of the correct species (not all products contain the right species) to eat what ammonia and nitrite there is. Win/win.

Jonny///M if you decide to do that, keep up the water changes and be aware it will provide false positive readings for a few days on the API test kit you're using, due to the method it uses to determine ammonia content. Regardless, the water will in fact be harmless to fish. Basically dose with Prime daily (as directed on the bottle) and add filter bacteria and wait. No need to test for that week because the Prime will have bound anything harmful anyway. I have cycled tanks from sky high ammonia and nitrite to 0/0 with climbing nitrate in about a week before now easily using this method.
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Cheers mate. Those are the two products that we have been using. Prime during water changes only but I've dosed it today and my mrs has been putting the tetra safe start in.

I did read prime and thought if it neutralizes the ammonia then maybe the bacteria can't feed on it but it seems they can. Win/win as you say!
 
I have fish!


3 honey Gourami and 4 Amano shrimp.

Seem to be getting on fine and settling in alright. The shrimp have wasted no time in getting at the algae.





HCeRkD4.jpg


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Amanos are lovely little things, i have 2 in my big tank and they just dispose of plant waste and algae. Quite hardy things got really big too!

Keep an eye on your tanks in this heat folks. The water temp will rise far above that of the heater settings and you may need to forcefully cool it with a floating ice pack or filled ice bottle. Plenty of airation if not minimal as hotter water holds less oxygen
 
azibux1 said:
Brilliant ideas! Never heard of either before. Thanks! :D
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Not a problem :) Is how i cool both my tanks down in a hurry if needs be. Iv also got 2l of cold water in the fridge which is dechlorinated in this kinda heat to combat evaporation and cool down the tank quickly for my nano
 
Unicorn said:
Not a problem :) Is how i cool both my tanks down in a hurry if needs be. Iv also got 2l of cold water in the fridge which is dechlorinated in this kinda heat to combat evaporation and cool down the tank quickly for my nano
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It's a great idea

How effective/quick is the ice pack trick? Does it not sink?
 
Unicorn said:
Amanos are lovely little things, i have 2 in my big tank and they just dispose of plant waste and algae. Quite hardy things got really big too!

Keep an eye on your tanks in this heat folks. The water temp will rise far above that of the heater settings and you may need to forcefully cool it with a floating ice pack or filled ice bottle. Plenty of airation if not minimal as hotter water holds less oxygen
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The tank is absolutely spotless today haha. They've got rid of nearly all the algae. Though they seem to have gone into hiding as I haven't seen them at all so far today.
 
My tanks hovering around 27.2'c right now with the cooling fans on constantly Usually around 26.5

Think the alarm is set for 27.5 and then its pooh my pants time, not sure how long the corals will put up with it for
 
Shrimps are cool little creatures, we got 4 for our betta tank, then the next day i found 3 had gone for a wander across the kitchen and subsequently perished. the other got dumped in a bigger tank and now see it perhaps once a month or so just to remind me he is still alive and kicking.

One minor benefit of this heat is Ick is going to be far less likely! My tanks hit 28 yesterday and i suspect it will be the same again today :(

Wonder if its worth running the temp of the tank a little higher than normal just to minimise the temp variations between day and night?
 
I'd imagine that the body of water won't vary in temperature that much anyway, maybe +/- 1-2c

I agree on the shrimps though, they are interesting to watch.
 
Guys basically I probably fed bit too much to my fishes last night, today I seen quite a few of them breath very heavily. Would it be because there is ammonia? I have dosed some seachem prime and stability. Hopefully it is fine and put a power stone back in.
 
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