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Your current Fish tank Setups!

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Malt_Vinegar, Jan 11, 2010.

  1. NoobCannon

    Mobster

    Joined: Jun 13, 2011

    Posts: 3,620

    Its a male that shows the beet colours aswell am i correct?

    Will they display on thier own or is it best to have 2? Hoping can just have the one
     
  2. Spook187

    Sgarrista

    Joined: Jan 16, 2010

    Posts: 7,783

    Location: Cumbria

    Yes mate I have a few, silver belly, Exquisite, peacock and nebulous, the nebulous is a pure bully though and when feeding is on the go he's just a dick, they can turn on shrimp and snails son types.
     
  3. Unicorn

    Mobster

    Joined: Dec 24, 2011

    Posts: 4,623

    This hobby is a money pit, Buying a Vectra s1 now for my reefer nano and a reeflink so iv got control over that and my Vortech mp10 :')
     
  4. King4aDay

    Mobster

    Joined: Sep 4, 2003

    Posts: 4,083

    Location: Cornwall

    Yeah males are more colourful. A good shop should be able to order them by sex. Single is fine, you can keep them as pairs but there's definitely a risk of aggression from the male.
     
  5. Spook187

    Sgarrista

    Joined: Jan 16, 2010

    Posts: 7,783

    Location: Cumbria

    Indeed, but you buy cheap you end up buying twice, the vectra is an excellent pump, dead silent.
     
  6. Unicorn

    Mobster

    Joined: Dec 24, 2011

    Posts: 4,623

    Well my jabao is slowing down if that even seems right.. its on 90% now to keep up with what i need. Started life at 60%. Refuse to run it at 100 so its being replaced
     
  7. Vidar

    Mobster

    Joined: Dec 18, 2008

    Posts: 3,481

    Location: Liverpool

    I'm hoping I don't fall victim to the bug of aquariums but at this point I'm pretty excited about doing this tank for my lad and am having to reign in my desire to go buying plants and decorations etc let alone fish lol

    Having day dreams of a 6ft reef tank lol
     
  8. b0rn2sk8

    Mobster

    Joined: Mar 9, 2003

    Posts: 3,569

    I would say yes, but others will say no because of the way a Fluval edge is constructed. A betta is an anabantoid which means it has an extra organ so it can also get oxygen from the air. I say yes because there is still a significant sized opening at the top of the tank so it shouldn't be a problem, the fish will know what is the surface and what isn't after all.

    Good tank mates are anything that will not fit in its mouth or out compete it for food. Betta's can be aggressive but normally only to their own kind, your mileage may vary. I would still avoid anything with long flowing fins like fancy guppy's or fish that will nip the fins of the Betta like serpae tetra's.

    I would start with the betta, get it established and then try and introduce 5 or 6 of one of the following:
    Dwarf Corydoras Catfish species (edit removed these, not sure if suitable)
    Neon Tetra (Normal, green, black etc all fine)
    Endlars
    Small Rasbora (Harlequin, Dwarf species)
    Lampeye Killifish
    Ember Tetra
    White Cloud Minno's (Gold or Regular)
    Amano Shrimp (your mileage may vary with cherry, don't be surprised if they end up as dinner)
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2019
  9. Spook187

    Sgarrista

    Joined: Jan 16, 2010

    Posts: 7,783

    Location: Cumbria

    Big wallet needed, but worth it :)
     
  10. RobHu

    Gangster

    Joined: Jan 29, 2008

    Posts: 250

    You shouldn't keep any wrasse in pairs with very few exceptions (e.g. macropharyngodon species). They will all eventually turn male and then you'll have problems! Here is a really great article about this: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/pairing-wrasses-thats-not-how-any-of-this-works.3/
     
  11. PiKe

    Capodecina

    Joined: Oct 18, 2002

    Posts: 23,445

    Location: Lake District

    I have what I think is beard algae on some of plants, the treatment seems to remove them and place them in a solution of 10% bleech for 10 minutes, does that sound right?
     
  12. b0rn2sk8

    Mobster

    Joined: Mar 9, 2003

    Posts: 3,569

    You can do that but I really wouldn't, it could make things worse for a few reasons:
    Removing the plant from the aquarium disrupts the root system putting the plant under further stress and hinder future growth, this can encourage more algae.
    The bleach its self will stress the plant, a stressed plant will likely encourage more algae
    It doesn't address the route cause of the algae and thus it is highly likely to return, often with vengeance due to the above

    You can spot treat effected areas with a glutaraldehyde based product such as Seachem Excel or Easy carbo. These are marketed as liquid CO2 and increase the available carbon in the tank but they have a side effect of killing algae if you spot dose with a syringe/pipette. The downside is that these products are toxic to livestock and plants if you put too much in and it still doesn't really address the root cause, I wouldn't bother unless its getting really bad.

    You are better off removing the effected leaves and addressing the route cause.

    Algae grows on plants because there is something that is stopping the plant thriving which means there is an imbalance somewhere in your tank its either:
    Too little nutrients
    Too much organic waste
    Low or fluctuating levels of CO2 in the water
    Lights on too long for available nutrients or CO2
    Lights are too intense for the available nutrients or CO2

    It really is trial and error getting the balance right, unless you have a CO2 system then CO2 is fixed which means the only things you can control are lights, nutrients and waste. Frequent large (50%) water changes are the best thing you can do to combat an algae outbreak while dialing in your lights and nutrients.
     
  13. Vidar

    Mobster

    Joined: Dec 18, 2008

    Posts: 3,481

    Location: Liverpool

    @b0rn2sk8 is a juwel 50 aquarium heater sufficient for the tank or would I be better with a Fluval one for the tank?
     
  14. b0rn2sk8

    Mobster

    Joined: Mar 9, 2003

    Posts: 3,569

    1W per litre is the general rule for minimum heater size. I wouldn't worry about the brand.
     
  15. Vidar

    Mobster

    Joined: Dec 18, 2008

    Posts: 3,481

    Location: Liverpool

    Just wondering how the fluval one would fit in the tank compared to the one I've got, would like as few visible wires as possible.
     
  16. Vidar

    Mobster

    Joined: Dec 18, 2008

    Posts: 3,481

    Location: Liverpool

    Sorry for all the probably dumb questions, your pointers have been extremely helpful though.
     
  17. NoobCannon

    Mobster

    Joined: Jun 13, 2011

    Posts: 3,620

    Just put the heater out of site somewhere assuming you dont have a sump. I used to like having mine standing upright then you have minimal wire in the water

    Also dont rely on the heaters internal thermostat as i find they are anywhere from +/- 3’c get yourself a controller
     
  18. PiKe

    Capodecina

    Joined: Oct 18, 2002

    Posts: 23,445

    Location: Lake District

    I will start dosing co2 and see what that does, the bottle says 1ml per 50l so I'm dosing 2ml as it's a 125l, should I double the dosage initially?
     
  19. NoobCannon

    Mobster

    Joined: Jun 13, 2011

    Posts: 3,620

    No you should start off with a half dose initally as somethjng like that is a big change
     
  20. Spook187

    Sgarrista

    Joined: Jan 16, 2010

    Posts: 7,783

    Location: Cumbria

    SCHEGO Titanium heaters all the way, you will need a controller, wouldn't trust another glass heater again prone to fail.