Soldato
- Joined
- 21 Sep 2009
- Posts
- 5,267
- Location
- London
You would too if you we're chief forecaster at the countries most famous weather office
You would too if you we're chief forecaster at the countries most famous weather office
Caporegime
- Joined
- 18 Oct 2002
- Posts
- 37,804
- Location
- block 16, cell 12
WHat have you done with the MR2? And what did you feel was missing that compelled you to go for the 5? I ask as im investigating buy an Mr2 turbo at the moment,
mk1_salami
mk1_salami
OP
I finished work today at 5, so I thought I'd crack on and make a start to the car in preparation for tomorrow. As promised, here are some pics of the progress.
I went through about 10 sets of latex gloves just to keep the camera clean and you guys updated, lol.
Here was the engine bay before I started the work.
And the modest tool kits I'll be using. Halfords 150pc and Halfords general toolkit.
First thing was to dismantle the Airbox, crossover and swing the strut brace out of the way.
Then I removed the 10mm bolts that held on the exhaust manifold heatshield. I soaked them all in WD40 prior to removal, but even then a couple were too badly corroded to fit the 10mm socket. I got round this by hammering on a 9mm and it worked fine, luckily!
The parts were building up:
And exposed the standard manifold:
Next job was to remove the standard manifold and downpipe. I undid the two bolts holding it to the cat, and also undid the two bolts that held the supporting bracket to the gearbox. After that, I undid the 14mm bolts that held then manifold to the head and removed!
It left a lovely, turbo sized hole:
Into which I had to trial fit the turbo. It had to be done, right?
More updates tomorrow. The list of things to do looks something like this:
- Drill and Tap sump to accept hose barb for oil return.
- Buy a replacement (universal) bottom radiator hose to allow me to clock the turbo downwards
- Figure out a nice way to route the intercooler pipe work and flare the ends using my new tool
- Insert take off from the 90 degree silicon elbow to connect to the idle thingy ma bob pipe
- Build up some JB Weld on the intercooler pipes to tap into for the intake air temperature sensor, and also the source for the manual boost controller.
I'll try to take more pics tomorrow.
I went through about 10 sets of latex gloves just to keep the camera clean and you guys updated, lol.
Here was the engine bay before I started the work.
And the modest tool kits I'll be using. Halfords 150pc and Halfords general toolkit.
First thing was to dismantle the Airbox, crossover and swing the strut brace out of the way.
Then I removed the 10mm bolts that held on the exhaust manifold heatshield. I soaked them all in WD40 prior to removal, but even then a couple were too badly corroded to fit the 10mm socket. I got round this by hammering on a 9mm and it worked fine, luckily!
The parts were building up:
And exposed the standard manifold:
Next job was to remove the standard manifold and downpipe. I undid the two bolts holding it to the cat, and also undid the two bolts that held the supporting bracket to the gearbox. After that, I undid the 14mm bolts that held then manifold to the head and removed!
It left a lovely, turbo sized hole:
Into which I had to trial fit the turbo. It had to be done, right?
More updates tomorrow. The list of things to do looks something like this:
- Drill and Tap sump to accept hose barb for oil return.
- Buy a replacement (universal) bottom radiator hose to allow me to clock the turbo downwards
- Figure out a nice way to route the intercooler pipe work and flare the ends using my new tool
- Insert take off from the 90 degree silicon elbow to connect to the idle thingy ma bob pipe
- Build up some JB Weld on the intercooler pipes to tap into for the intake air temperature sensor, and also the source for the manual boost controller.
I'll try to take more pics tomorrow.
Last edited by a moderator:
mk1_salami
mk1_salami
OP
The MR2 turbo was a really nice car, but I missed the chuckability and handling characteristics of the MX5. To me the MR2 is a point and squirt car, where as the MX5 is more fun in the corners.
much appreciated.
I haven't posted in this topic before but have been following it with interest for a while, keep up the good work.
I have heard 240 quoted but I don't think I would
mk1_salami
mk1_salami
OP
Wee update for today. The car lives :0).
I was greeted to rain at 9am this morning, and it was relentless all day. I figured I wasn't made of sugar, so cracked on anyway.
The pictures are a bit few and far between due to the rain.
I drilled and tapped the oil sump, then fitted a hose barb and sealed with Araldite rapid steel. (picture was before fitting a jubilee clip, and cleaning up the area then applying Araldite)
After this, I drained the oil and ran some white spirit down the oil return. I did this to remove any aluminium shavings in the sump created by the drilling and tapping.
I heat wrapped the water lines and oil return at the turbo end. I don't have any pictures of this, but it basically involved cutting strips of heat wrap material and wrapping them round the hoses, secured with safety wire.
I then fitted the oil feed into the side of the block.
Next, I installed the cast manifold onto the head, then slotted the frame rail to allow the turbo and downpipe to fit. I installed all the fasteners and tightened up all the turbo hardware. This involved a huge amount of frustration and sweary words.
Turbo, manifold and downpipe all fitted:
Because I was deleting the mass air flow sensor (MAF), I needed to install a GM Intake air temperature sensor somewhere before the throttle body. So I drilled the aluminium T Piece for the BOV and ghetto'd it into place.
The wires from that sensor plug into the plug for the MAF. Once I did this, I taped it all up with electrical tape to make it weather proof.
It was time to make a start on the intercooler piping. I used a tool I had made to flare the ends of the intercooler pipe work. This should prevent the hoses popping off under pressure.
This is where the pictures stop unfortunately.
I cut the pipe work I had to fit and connected up from the intercooler to the throttle body.
The turbo side wasn't quite so easy because I chose to clock the turbo downwards. Nevertheless, it's all fitted now with the exception of a wee problem with the idle air control valve pipe. I have a self sealing silicon take off, like this one, but the 90 degree silicon bend is simply too close to it to allow me to run a hose from one to another. I'll need to figure that one out.
I've got to tighten all the clamps tomorrow, but aside from that I'm pretty much done. Next job: clutch!
I was greeted to rain at 9am this morning, and it was relentless all day. I figured I wasn't made of sugar, so cracked on anyway.
The pictures are a bit few and far between due to the rain.
I drilled and tapped the oil sump, then fitted a hose barb and sealed with Araldite rapid steel. (picture was before fitting a jubilee clip, and cleaning up the area then applying Araldite)
After this, I drained the oil and ran some white spirit down the oil return. I did this to remove any aluminium shavings in the sump created by the drilling and tapping.
I heat wrapped the water lines and oil return at the turbo end. I don't have any pictures of this, but it basically involved cutting strips of heat wrap material and wrapping them round the hoses, secured with safety wire.
I then fitted the oil feed into the side of the block.
Next, I installed the cast manifold onto the head, then slotted the frame rail to allow the turbo and downpipe to fit. I installed all the fasteners and tightened up all the turbo hardware. This involved a huge amount of frustration and sweary words.
Turbo, manifold and downpipe all fitted:
Because I was deleting the mass air flow sensor (MAF), I needed to install a GM Intake air temperature sensor somewhere before the throttle body. So I drilled the aluminium T Piece for the BOV and ghetto'd it into place.
The wires from that sensor plug into the plug for the MAF. Once I did this, I taped it all up with electrical tape to make it weather proof.
It was time to make a start on the intercooler piping. I used a tool I had made to flare the ends of the intercooler pipe work. This should prevent the hoses popping off under pressure.
This is where the pictures stop unfortunately.
I cut the pipe work I had to fit and connected up from the intercooler to the throttle body.
The turbo side wasn't quite so easy because I chose to clock the turbo downwards. Nevertheless, it's all fitted now with the exception of a wee problem with the idle air control valve pipe. I have a self sealing silicon take off, like this one, but the 90 degree silicon bend is simply too close to it to allow me to run a hose from one to another. I'll need to figure that one out.
I've got to tighten all the clamps tomorrow, but aside from that I'm pretty much done. Next job: clutch!
Last edited by a moderator:
mk1_salami
mk1_salami
OP
Well finished it all off tonight after fitting the clutch. I took it out for a cautious spin, keeping one eye on the AFR gauge to make sure I wasn't going to blow my **** up. It's running in the 9-10 afr range at the moment, so obviously a bit of work leaning it out to the 11's under full boost, but what can I say - omg it feels quick already, at only 8psi (wastegate pressure).
The T28 feels really strong at the top of the rev range, and I've got a feeling it's only going to get better once it comes into it's efficiency range.
Intake air temps are eerily low 16-18 degree's Celcius, which makes me wonder if I've got a setting wrong in Megatune. Either that or the intercooler and my ducting are **** hot
Either way, the car is running like a champ and I'm looking forward to the next few days when I fix the fuel map and up the boost.
Woooooo I'm excited
The T28 feels really strong at the top of the rev range, and I've got a feeling it's only going to get better once it comes into it's efficiency range.
Intake air temps are eerily low 16-18 degree's Celcius, which makes me wonder if I've got a setting wrong in Megatune. Either that or the intercooler and my ducting are **** hot
Either way, the car is running like a champ and I'm looking forward to the next few days when I fix the fuel map and up the boost.
Woooooo I'm excited
Last edited by a moderator:
I definitely would not have done that with the sump in situ.I drilled and tapped the oil sump, then fitted a hose barb and sealed with Araldite rapid steel. (picture was before fitting a jubilee clip, and cleaning up the area then applying Araldite)
After this, I drained the oil and ran some white spirit down the oil return. I did this to remove any aluminium shavings in the sump created by the drilling and tapping.
mk1_salami
mk1_salami
OP
There was a time I'd agree with you Leon, but the 'big two' (BEGI and Flyin Miata) turbo kit manufacturers both seem to think it's ok, and advise you to do this.
I know what you mean, but if it was mine I'd have still dropped the sump for my own peace of mind.
mk1_salami
mk1_salami
OP
Got launch control and flat shift set up today. It basically involved wiring in the standard clutch switch to a nice ground and the other wire to the ECU.
I'm taking it to the drag strip tomorrow (quarter mile) and I'm really keen to see what sort of time I can achieve. Anyone wanna guess?
T28, 1.8 @ 14psi
I'm taking it to the drag strip tomorrow (quarter mile) and I'm really keen to see what sort of time I can achieve. Anyone wanna guess?
T28, 1.8 @ 14psi
Soldato
- Joined
- 21 Sep 2009
- Posts
- 5,267
- Location
- London
14.35secs
mk1_salami
mk1_salami
OP
Just back and couldn't nail the launch. I had problems setting up the launch control, so ran without it and no flatshift. Nevertheless, best time 12.69
Soldato
- Joined
- 21 Sep 2009
- Posts
- 5,267
- Location
- London
