Big can of tyre weld and a small electric compressor is my solution
Agreed, RFTs are just horrible!!
BMW and M Power Owners
- Thread starter panthro
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Big can of tyre weld and a small electric compressor is my solution
Agreed, RFTs are just horrible!!
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It's going to look fairly crap at 6000k. Why do people ask for advice if they've already decided they are going to ignore it anyway?
4300k or 5000k would have looked great, been nice and white, not made your car look like Barry has just bought it and as a bonus, given you better lights... which I'm assuming was at least some of the purpose behind the upgrade? I mean it wasn't ALL about the bling, right?
Why? You only ever have fogs on in very bad weather and in those circumstances does it really matter if it 'matches' your Xenons? Nobody is ever going to see your 'proper wicked Xenon fogs' unless you drive around everywhere with them on, and conventional halogen lights are more than sufficient for foglight use.
Soldato
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It's going to look fairly crap at 6000k. Why do people ask for advice if they've already decided they are going to ignore it anyway?
4300k or 5000k would have looked great, been nice and white, not made your car look like Barry has just bought it and as a bonus, given you better lights... which I'm assuming was at least some of the purpose behind the upgrade? I mean it wasn't ALL about the bling, right?
I hadn't decided before hand to ignore it I researched and also took your advice onboard. I read some oem lights can run close to 6000k anyway. I felt I wanted a higher temp than 4300k and 5000k would have been ideal but 6000k has a better selection it seems. Its not the end of the world I can always swap the bulbs if they are too blue. Honestly Im very grateful for the advice given as it seems you have a wealth of knowledge.
Im not planning to drive with them on but for the case of £20 it seems like a normal step to do if ive done pretty much every other light on the car to match.
Will report back when the HID kit arrives. Will take a week or 2 due to Military post. Thanks a lot.
Edit, Read that LED bulbs dont actually light the road that well compared to halogen so ordered some Osram night-breaker plus for the fogs and will probably get a matching set for the main.
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Bit of investigating my previous lambda related codes tonight. I only read codes using an generic reader at first and pulled a bank 1 post cat sensor. Reset them all and have done a bit of driving since. No eml since but checked the codes anyway.
Inpa brings up code 233 which is the bank 1 Cat efficiency as a periodic fault which ties in with what I thought. Need to look at the post cat sensors considering swapping bank 1 and 2 over to check the fault moves but tbh given the car has done over 100k I might just put a new one in as its likely to be the culprit i'd think.
What concerned me a but more was this
The bank 2 adaptations look like its running rich and just out of tolerance. The car has been hesitating a bit again recently and slightly rough at idle so I guess I need to go VAC leak hunting again as a first point. I'll need to check the values with the car actually driving too as that was only sitting on the drive but the readings were relatively consistent. Would have thought a VAC leak would impact both banks and my knowledge is limited on the software so any other pointers appreciated.
Inpa brings up code 233 which is the bank 1 Cat efficiency as a periodic fault which ties in with what I thought. Need to look at the post cat sensors considering swapping bank 1 and 2 over to check the fault moves but tbh given the car has done over 100k I might just put a new one in as its likely to be the culprit i'd think.
What concerned me a but more was this
The bank 2 adaptations look like its running rich and just out of tolerance. The car has been hesitating a bit again recently and slightly rough at idle so I guess I need to go VAC leak hunting again as a first point. I'll need to check the values with the car actually driving too as that was only sitting on the drive but the readings were relatively consistent. Would have thought a VAC leak would impact both banks and my knowledge is limited on the software so any other pointers appreciated.
The only code is 233 which is cat out of range bank 1 from inpa. Generic code scanner picked that up as a p00420 a few weeks ago which is a post cat sensor bank 1 so ties up - it was cleared then and has been rechecked tonight. Inpa shows a low occurrence so I'm fairly sure that's just a duff lambda - not worried about that.
What's bothering me is the screenshot of the adaptation values. Bank 2 lambda is overcorrecting out of range and well out of scope with bank 1 - the car has also been hesitating again over Christmas so I think (and think only for now) this and the out of tolerance bank 2 adaptation are related to a separate issue, possibly a vac leak...but then I don't understand why that wouldn't have a more universal impact
Oh yeah e46 with an m54
What's bothering me is the screenshot of the adaptation values. Bank 2 lambda is overcorrecting out of range and well out of scope with bank 1 - the car has also been hesitating again over Christmas so I think (and think only for now) this and the out of tolerance bank 2 adaptation are related to a separate issue, possibly a vac leak...but then I don't understand why that wouldn't have a more universal impact
Oh yeah e46 with an m54
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Hesitating when? On start up? Low down revs? Driving around town?
More detail is needed.
Vac leak can't cause enough hesitation to be noticed by the driver. If it was big enough you would hear it clearly.
Has the DISA valve been checked out? Spark plugs been checked? Fuel filter? ICV cleaned, TB cleaned? The CCV can cause hesitation and lumpyness without fault codes being thrown.
Your fault code isn't related to the hesitation IMO. But I really need to know the type of hesitation and under what conditions exactly. Is it an OCD hesitation that you can pick up on or a very clear thing that anyone could notice.
More detail is needed.
Vac leak can't cause enough hesitation to be noticed by the driver. If it was big enough you would hear it clearly.
Has the DISA valve been checked out? Spark plugs been checked? Fuel filter? ICV cleaned, TB cleaned? The CCV can cause hesitation and lumpyness without fault codes being thrown.
Your fault code isn't related to the hesitation IMO. But I really need to know the type of hesitation and under what conditions exactly. Is it an OCD hesitation that you can pick up on or a very clear thing that anyone could notice.
Any revs, as soon as the car is out back under load. Its not bad, but particularly noticeable when pulling away. Anyone would notice, definitely not just the dbw throttle delay but it hardly makes the thing undrivable.
Disa is refurbed, vanos seals are done along with the rocker seals, ccv is new along with hoses, icv and tb both clean, maf has been cleaned but is original, all coils visually good with a few clearly been replaced not too long ago, new cam sensor at the vanos solenoid side, plugs were done last year, fuel filter not sure can't be that old will need to check but the car has a solid history so I expect it will be relatively new.
Disa is refurbed, vanos seals are done along with the rocker seals, ccv is new along with hoses, icv and tb both clean, maf has been cleaned but is original, all coils visually good with a few clearly been replaced not too long ago, new cam sensor at the vanos solenoid side, plugs were done last year, fuel filter not sure can't be that old will need to check but the car has a solid history so I expect it will be relatively new.
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Scuffmaster kit arrived today, now to wait for it to stop pouring with rain so I can do it.
Soldato
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Fitted some chrome rings and did sharpie mod which I think has improved the look of the basic dials a lot. Also fitted some NGK Laser Platinum's and a fresh pollen filter.
