What did you do to your bike today?

acemastr said:
My first flash was with Woolich software, it couldn't touch decel mappings though which sucked as these things slam on the brakes when you let off.

Main reason for FTECU is the throttle mappings, the throttle on this bike sucks ass.
Click to expand...

Is the R1s maps much different from the R1? strange as i thought the same, but the guys i take my bikes to had no issues sorting it, rolls nicely into corners now off the throttle, think we changed 1st-3rd.
 
ce5d8670c6d974a48da785efd6db2dfc.png

be91db055b6f4ebd87a6b5a78eaf523b.png


Fork leg replaced Sunday on winter hog then test ride just after midnight.

Friend also replaced his welder the other died after 19 years so have a new toy to play with.
 
Last edited:
Replaced s few cracked panels from the previous owner and virtually re-wired the whole thing as the previous owner had decided to fit some LED lights behind the fuel tank-which didn’t work!

I then removed the after market indicators and fitted some OEM chromed ones front and rear. Looks a lot better now and I’m more comfortable knowing Ive properly sorted the electrics and waterproofed everything.
 
Installed the FTECU ActiveTune and set AFR targets.... the throttle is sooo smooth now, confidence has gone way up just from not having a throttle ready to buck me off
 
Picked it up from mechanics. Sounded lovely when i started it up; missed it :p Took it for a bit of a long way home to start trying to scrub the new tyre in but it was getting cold and damp so didn't get much done. Still, the SV lives on :) I was shown the old air filter which was literally dripping oil from one half :| Total cost £200 including £120 which was going to be the rear tyre, so not bad at all.
 
Replaced brake pads all round on the CB400, replaced oil and air filters and changed the oil. Also had to concede defeat and change the rear chain - had to get some help in for that as I’ve never tried it before. Two of us together with Del Boy’s Garage on YouTube seemed to work ok.

It seemed to be running better afterwards, but then it just died on the way back from a ride. Electrics were on but no power to the starter motor and no ignition. Ended up pushing it back for a mile or so, trying to bump it every now and then with no joy, only to finally get back and everything worked again!

Looks like I’ll need to look at the electrics next...
 
Done an oil and filter change once it stopped raining. Might actually get it out for something other than commuting tomorrow.
 
Snapped rear calliper mount bolt while doing it up....Worked out if I take the end can off and take out all the bolts for rear disk I can slide the calliper off to expose the remainder of the bolt. Jut not sure I want to risk more sheered bolts. Booked into the garage for Friday
 
The CB400 continues to perplex. I gave it a few litres of 99 ROB fuel and ran that through it during an Italian tune up. Not a single hint of it failing to start or cut out. The problem is niggling the back of my mind though, as I just don't have the confidence that it won't reoccur.

Anyone have any bright ideas? The symptoms are the bike just cutting out, pressing the starter results in nothing but at the same time power is being drawn. The bike wouldn't bump start either.
 
The_Abyss said:
The CB400 continues to perplex. I gave it a few litres of 99 ROB fuel and ran that through it during an Italian tune up. Not a single hint of it failing to start or cut out. The problem is niggling the back of my mind though, as I just don't have the confidence that it won't reoccur.

Anyone have any bright ideas? The symptoms are the bike just cutting out, pressing the starter results in nothing but at the same time power is being drawn. The bike wouldn't bump start either.
Click to expand...

Sounds electrical, and I'm suspecting the ECU unfortunately, but could be a combination of things....
When it's working does it start on the button from cold and warm (valves)?
Does it ever splutter and misfire when it's wet or cold (coils)?
When it's not starting does it smell of fuel when you're spinning it (fuel supply)?

When it does happen it's worth having a spare plug with you- whip one of the HT leads off, connect to your spare plug and see if there's a spark while you spin it over.
 
Thanks for replying.

It starts absolutely fine on the choke, and then off choke and idling about a minute later. There's a little splutter / hesitation when then fully opening the throttle, and the revs build more slowly than they should until past the midrange, but that problem goes away when the engine is fully warmed up. Definitely no smell of fuel when it is not responsive. I should add that I can see that power is being drawn when it is unresponsive, as the lights dim when pressing the starter. The current is going somewhere!

Good idea on the plug - I'll try that next.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom