BMW and M Power Owners

@SDK^ I will be very interested how you find the turning circle of the IX as well.

11.9 metres on my Polestar 2 is pretty infuriating, so 12.8m must be a right pain in the arse.
Yes, funny you mention that :p
The Polestar was poor compared to my other cars, and I’ve found today the iX takes one more forward & back to get on my drive, than the P2 did :cry:
Good to see the turning circle numbers and it wasn’t down to my driving :)

The M60 has rear wheel steering but that’s about £120k :(
 
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Yes, funny you mention that :p
The Polestar was poor compared to my other cars, and I’ve found today the iX takes one more forward & back to get on my drive, than the P2 did :cry:
Good to see the turning circle numbers and it wasn’t down to my driving :)

The M60 has rear wheel steering but that’s about £120k :(
Yeah

Pretty scandalous they took air suspension and rear wheel stear off the ix, if you ask me
 
Quick question about my PCP, if the cars current value appears to be less than my remaining payments + final payment is my only option just to hand it back? I understand I can do this as long as I am 50% of the way through the agreement. Also, there is a tiny dent I have only just noticed, almost impossible to see (not sure what caused it, smaller than if someone jabbed it lightly with a pen), am assuming BMW will try and charge me for that?
 
Quick question about my PCP, if the cars current value appears to be less than my remaining payments + final payment is my only option just to hand it back?

I don't see why that would be your only option? What is stopping you from continuing with the agreement until the end of the term? You also have the option to settle the agreement and keep the car.
 
Quick question about my PCP, if the cars current value appears to be less than my remaining payments + final payment is my only option just to hand it back? I understand I can do this as long as I am 50% of the way through the agreement. Also, there is a tiny dent I have only just noticed, almost impossible to see (not sure what caused it, smaller than if someone jabbed it lightly with a pen), am assuming BMW will try and charge me for that?
You can do Voluntary Termination as long as you are 50% of the way through your PCP financially (or you'd need to pay the difference up to the 50% mark iirc), details of what this figure actually is should be in your original paperwork I think. Given the way PCP is structured with the balloon payments, the 50% financial mark is often not reached until quite near the end of the agreement in terms of time.

I'm not sure this approach will necessarily make sense for you, compared to just seeing out the PCP agreement and changing cars a bit later down the line.
 
I don't see why that would be your only option? What is stopping you from continuing with the agreement until the end of the term? You also have the option to settle the agreement and keep the car.
Forgot to mention the part about me getting a different car.
 
You can do Voluntary Termination as long as you are 50% of the way through your PCP financially (or you'd need to pay the difference up to the 50% mark iirc), details of what this figure actually is should be in your original paperwork I think. Given the way PCP is structured with the balloon payments, the 50% financial mark is often not reached until quite near the end of the agreement in terms of time.

I'm not sure this approach will necessarily make sense for you, compared to just seeing out the PCP agreement and changing cars a bit later down the line.
Ah I thought the 50% thing was the length of the PCP agreement not the money side. I'm 3 years through a 4 year agreement.
 
Ah I thought the 50% thing was the length of the PCP agreement not the money side. I'm 3 years through a 4 year agreement.
Check your paperwork. I know on a standard HP agreement it’s halfway through the loan period when you would have paid half the loan anyway but I’m unsure about PCP.
 
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Check your paperwork. I know on a standard HP agreement it’s halfway through the loan period when you would have paid half the loan anyway but I’m unsure about PCP.

It's a legal requirement under the Consumer Credit Act 1974, but people forget that it isn't the price of the car or the duration of the agreement it's 50% of the total amount payable.

With hire purchase this is fairly straightforward because you pay off the value of the vehicle over the length of the agreement so therefore in a made up example with no deposit, you'd reach 50% of the total amount payable about half way through. But a personal contract plan doesn't work this way as a significant proportion of the outstanding balance is at the end of the agreement in the form of the 'guaranteed future value' and the 50% will include this as its part of the total amount payable.

Unless there is a real need for a different vehicle you must be careful here and think about whether changing cars part way through the agreement when you are in a situation whereby you have no equity in the car is the best way forward.
 
BMW called. Cars back in the bodyshop to sort the issues that were left after the repair work they did to my 440i.
They are:
Wing brackets different colour under bonnet.
Wing mounted too high at rear near pillar.

I'll be interested to see if the manage to rectify it... as at the moment its clear as day it's damage repaired. And BMW claim that their process puts the car back to pre damage conditions.
 
BMW called. Cars back in the bodyshop to sort the issues that were left after the repair work they did to my 440i.
They are:
Wing brackets different colour under bonnet.
Wing mounted too high at rear near pillar.

I'll be interested to see if the manage to rectify it... as at the moment its clear as day it's damage repaired. And BMW claim that their process puts the car back to pre damage conditions.

I would certainly expect them to - they bang on about it on their insurance, that their cars are repaired at authorised repair shops etc at BMW standards.

If they can’t get it right, then there’s no value in having BMW do it over anyone else.



Hope you manage to get it sorted :)
 
I would certainly expect them to - they bang on about it on their insurance, that their cars are repaired at authorised repair shops etc at BMW standards.

If they can’t get it right, then there’s no value in having BMW do it over anyone else.



Hope you manage to get it sorted :)
I'm sure they will. However, it will need them to take the wing off and undo their messy "weld" of the wing brackets and start afresh up there near the pillar.
Will see how they get on. They have it on the 27th and I hope to get it back for the 29th. Will wait and see.
 
Yesterday, I had an issue where the powered tailgate on my M340i G21 Touring refused to open either by pressing and holding the key fob button or by pressing the switch in the car on the driver's door. You can hear the lock mechanism cycling and it unlocks to then pop up very slightly (an inch maybe?) but refuses to open. Previously, very occasionally when I tried to open it off the fob, it would open about 6 inches or so and then stop, but if I pressed and held the fob button again it closed, then would open fine on the second attempt. There's nothing jamming or blocking the actual lock mechanism and I've no idea why it's randomly started doing this today.

Any idea or suggestions on what it could be? My initial thought was maybe a low fob battery although there's been no dash warning for that like you usually get. I've not tried waving my foot under the bumper to see if that works (never occurred to me until just now to try that so will go and check).

Also, if it's a fault with something would it throw up a fault code? Might fire up my OBD scanner and check. Car is still under warranty so it'll be taking a visit to my dealer to get checked out, but wondered if there were any suggestions of what to look at in the meantime.

Ta.
 
Just had another go at it. I've changed the fob battery for a brand new CR2032 and cleaned/lubricated the lock mechanism, applying White Lithium Grease. Cleaned around the tailgate rubber and applied Gummi Pflege.

So, off the fob button it generally unlocks and pops up a few mm and remains there. Try pressing the button again and it reluctantly tries to shut/lock but doesn't manage to do so.

Pressing the button in the drivers door results in pretty much the same thing. Then using either the fob or drivers door switch, completely randomly out of the blue maybe every 7 or eight attempts - it will open and close perfectly.

Foot operation using the under bumper sensor results in the same randomness.

However.....if I attempt to open it with the manual button (under the BMW badge on the tailgate) it opens first time, every time.

Baffling :confused:
 
Just had another go at it. I've changed the fob battery for a brand new CR2032 and cleaned/lubricated the lock mechanism, applying White Lithium Grease. Cleaned around the tailgate rubber and applied Gummi Pflege.

So, off the fob button it generally unlocks and pops up a few mm and remains there. Try pressing the button again and it reluctantly tries to shut/lock but doesn't manage to do so.

Pressing the button in the drivers door results in pretty much the same thing. Then using either the fob or drivers door switch, completely randomly out of the blue maybe every 7 or eight attempts - it will open and close perfectly.

Foot operation using the under bumper sensor results in the same randomness.

However.....if I attempt to open it with the manual button (under the BMW badge on the tailgate) it opens first time, every time.

Baffling :confused:

Still under warranty? Book it in ASAP :-)
 
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