Road Cycling

Most of my club ride with a bag of haribo so most hill top stops they'll be offered around. I don't carry any myself, but if they wheren't on offer I would.
Oooooooh, you're THAT guy on a club ride... :rolleyes: :cry:

"Oh no, I forgot my spare tube, can someone lend me one?" :mad:
 
Oooooooh, you're THAT guy on a club ride... :rolleyes: :cry:

"Oh no, I forgot my spare tube, can someone lend me one?" :mad:
Haha no I share my food if needed too... But I'm *THAT* guy carrying 2 spare tubes and I'm tubeless so my tubes get used for others more than me! Think I've only needed to put a tube in for myself once since covid times :cry:
 
Ok had a look at my derailure . It wasn't the wheel, took it off put it back on , still chain would skip over the top and behind cassette..

I undone the wire screw holder .done it up, reindexed the gears .seems abit better now but the chain still feels like it's running somewhere in the derailure hanger.. also the hanger looked abit skewed / bent .

Your not going to see it properly from a pic.

PXL-20250314-165210258.jpg


PXL-20250314-165008680.jpg


Yes it all needs and clean
 
Oooooooh, you're THAT guy on a club ride... :rolleyes: :cry:

"Oh no, I forgot my spare tube, can someone lend me one?" :mad:

Reminds me of heading out Bruges on We Ride Flanders back in 2023. We were only a couple of KM from the start and there's a bloke stood at the side of the road holding a inner tube and shouting if anyone has a spare!
 
Ok had a look at my derailure . It wasn't the wheel, took it off put it back on , still chain would skip over the top and behind cassette..

I undone the wire screw holder .done it up, reindexed the gears .seems abit better now but the chain still feels like it's running somewhere in the derailure hanger.. also the hanger looked abit skewed / bent .

Your not going to see it properly from a pic.



PXL-20250314-165008680.jpg


Yes it all needs and clean
Looks like it might need the upper limit screw adjusting?
 
Cheers I'll give that ago (probably tomorrow now)

I need to switch back to dry lube. My chain is a mess... Say no to wet lube.

I need to to get the cassette, jocky wheels off ...

Iv not taken the cassette off properly before, only cleaned with brush usually and an old rag
 
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Cheers I'll give that ago (probably tomorrow now)

I need to switch back to dry lube. My chain is a mess... Say no to wet lube.

I need to to get the cassette, jocky wheels off ...

Iv not taken the cassette off properly before, only cleaned with brush usually and an old rag

I think many people have come to the conclusion that a good dry lube should always be used. If its wet then you just need to reapply it more often.
 
I think many people have come to the conclusion that a good dry lube should always be used. If its wet then you just need to reapply it more often.

Yeh I usually use dry

Wet lube is far too tacky. It makes your chain super sticky and every piece of grime sticks to it.. horrible stuff even when it's wet outside
 
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I tried a different lube every year. The worst one I've used was Mucoff ceramic dry lube which needed reapplying every ride and still ruined a chain in a couple thousand miles. Best one and the one that I'm sticking with forever now is Fenwicks Professional, I'm not overly sure what it is exactly, but closest is like a drip wax as you need to leave it to dry before going out.
 
I tried a different lube every year. The worst one I've used was Mucoff ceramic dry lube which needed reapplying every ride and still ruined a chain in a couple thousand miles. Best one and the one that I'm sticking with forever now is Fenwicks Professional, I'm not overly sure what it is exactly, but closest is like a drip wax as you need to leave it to dry before going out.

Lots of people seem to say that the mucoff stuff is awful.
 
so, in the end I went and got my self an adventure spec bike. Went with boardman adv 9.2. Was looking into canyon grail etc but for my money and size they only had the 2x grouppo in stock. I wanted :

40c + tire clearance
Relaxed geometry
1x grouppo ideally sram as I’ve got rival on my other bike and can swap batteries etc
Interesting colour

Is what I settled on : https://www.boardmanbikes.com/gb_en/products/2400-adv-9.2.html
Took it out for a first ride today, with some Hutchinson Caracal race tires :


In 40C and honestly, it rolls so well on road.

First impressions after 40k mixed terrain.

Rolls great on these tires

Comfort is great, honestly it’s shocking how much better it feels compared to my very aggressive argon18.

Grouppo shifts fast and gearing is very good for me. Plenty for climbs and enough for road, can comfortably cruise at 30-40km/h without issues.

Frame has decent amount of flex but also enough stiffness in the right areas

Colour looks great in sun

Cockpit could do with new tape but easily sorted.


All in, I have a strong suspicion that I will rarely touch my other bike now. This is just that much more suited for my riding.

Ride link : https://strava.app.link/feGjKo12KRb

Some pictures:




Geometry comparison between argon and adv 9.2


All in, I have some regrets in buying my argon. It’s a great bike but just not what I actually wanted.
 
I wish there was far more off road stuff around me that wasn't just **** MTB stuff but unfortunately all the best riding is on the roads in this neck of the woods. I did what I think was described as a gravel ride last year and about 60% of it was off road and 20% of it was absolute quagmire that a proper MTB would have struggled on.
 
I wish there was far more off road stuff around me that wasn't just **** MTB stuff but unfortunately all the best riding is on the roads in this neck of the woods. I did what I think was described as a gravel ride last year and about 60% of it was off road and 20% of it was absolute quagmire that a proper MTB would have struggled on.
I’ve got the downs link path going from my area all the way down… it’s like 35miles of mixed terrain. Mostly very easy and probably doable on a roadie and some bits get a bit muddier.

I’ve also got a big forest next to me which I’ve managed to ride a part of today and that again is very mixed but has some proper muddy stuff that I doubt I could get through.

I’m genuinely enjoying the adventure bike spec. Seems to do it all really well. Went out today to catch some extra sun as the weather looks meh for the next few days.

 
Tried to sort out the gear shifting on my giant defy 2014 .. as it was skipping. I cleaned chain derailure. However when trying to index and adjust the l / h screws it wouldn't get up to the first gear.

Anyway I decided to try and adjust the derailure cable that goes to the shifters.

Long story short I messed it up. The wired are Freyed now I can't fit the cable.


Anyone know how much a bike shop would charge to fit a new cable from.the shifter to derailure and the index my gears properly ?

If it's going to cost £60-100 I'd rather try do it myself. Although I spent the last 3 hours trying to sort this out
 
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I think I'm going to go for this


Shimano Road Bike Gear Cable Set, Outer & 2 Inners





Although I have no idea on lengths etc or even if this is the right product . I have a giant defy 2014 composite shimnano Sora groupset. 9 speed


I have checked the barrel adjuster on the rear derailure. It's ok although slightly stiff to screw in ( I have removed the cable so just checking it screws in ok, not sure if it needs abit of grease or is normally like that or if there is some slight threading
 
I think I'm going to go for this


Shimano Road Bike Gear Cable Set, Outer & 2 Inners





Although I have no idea on lengths etc or even if this is the right product . I have a giant defy 2014 composite shimnano Sora groupset. 9 speed


I have checked the barrel adjuster on the rear derailure. It's ok although slightly stiff to screw in ( I have removed the cable so just checking it screws in ok, not sure if it needs abit of grease or is normally like that or if there is some slight threading
They usually come longer than you need so you need to trim them down which usually needs a decent cutter as squishing the outer sleeve will stop it from functioning properly.

If they’re in okay condition you should be able to just replace the inner cable it self and cut it nice and put a ferrule on the end. Indexing is not that difficult really, plenty of videos on YouTube explaining it well.

Those should fit fine.
 
talking about mechanical stuff, I had a weird brake buzz today on the new bike and couldn’t figure out where it was coming from. Stopped after a while to check again and as soon as bike is up in the the noise was gone, put it down and start riding and it came back, was coming from the front.

2nd check I did I realised that the front caliper was completely undone and barely hanging by a thread on both bolts.

I did check most bolts but these were untouched out the box and I guess weren’t torqued properly at the factory.

Got them tightish on the side with a torqx bit and torqued up properly to 6nm at home.

Half expect some teething issues with new bike. Always had them. But this was an interesting one to catch.
 
They usually come longer than you need so you need to trim them down which usually needs a decent cutter as squishing the outer sleeve will stop it from functioning properly.

If they’re in okay condition you should be able to just replace the inner cable it self and cut it nice and put a ferrule on the end. Indexing is not that difficult really, plenty of videos on YouTube explaining it well.

Those should fit fine.

Yeh iv ordered it. Pretty sure I got decent cutters on a network crimp tool or a pair of snips in the loft

Indexing is understandable but as the cable was freyed I was having issues with the barrel adjuster, then I started messing with the H and L limit screws. Then it went downhill from there
 
I think many people have come to the conclusion that a good dry lube should always be used. If its wet then you just need to reapply it more often.
Nope. Wet lube for commuting and winter (finish line green/Muc off blue) as they just have staying power for UK conditions. Sometimes a good dry lube in the spring/summer (muc off yellow). No point in the autumn, switch back to wet once it's raining more than once or twice a week. The muc off yellow has quite good staying power compared to other dry lubes I've used.

I don't recommend the muc off blue for winter riding/commuting. It's good, but mixed with either freezing temperatures or road salt (or combination of) it really thickens up and needs regular cleaning.

Best one and the one that I'm sticking with forever now is Fenwicks Professional, I'm not overly sure what it is exactly, but closest is like a drip wax as you need to leave it to dry before going out.
Linky?

I was going to go for the Silca wet weather one @Shadowness said about, but noticed it's a tiny tube - 59ml! The Super Secret sounded really expensive (it is) but you do get 240ml of it, so must last a lot longer?! You get 4x as much for less than twice the price.

Iv not taken the cassette off properly before, only cleaned with brush usually and an old rag
Pretty much all you need to do. Only reasons for removing a cassette is to make it easier for a complete (scrub) clean or other maintenance (like freehub/bearings/axle). If you don't need to do it then brush and rag!

Tip: I actually clean mine with wheel out of the bike, lay it flat (I elevate mine with it sat on bar & saddle of my Zwifting bike with something over the contact points), then I use an old tshirt doubled over and 'floss' between the cogs to clean out the gunk and their surfaces. Usually after a brush/chain cleaner over the cog contact surfaces when cleaning the chain on the bike first.

All in, I have a strong suspicion that I will rarely touch my other bike now. This is just that much more suited for my riding.
Look great & glad you're enjoying it!

Really the Argon 18 Gallium CS reads like an endurance race bike, the 9.2 is an 'allroad' so not surprising it works well for good trails like that! Hearing more and more about 40mm tyres on the road being great. Biggest I've done where 32mm and they where quite heavy and felt 'boaty', but that might also have been the wheels. They where wide road wheels, but 'older' wide at 23mm (when everyone considered 19mm wide). Quite possible more modern wider (27mm+) rims designed for gravel or allroad they would fit and sit better.

If it's going to cost £60-100 I'd rather try do it myself. Although I spent the last 3 hours trying to sort this out
Far less. That's a 15-20 min shop job... So depending on the place will depend on the cost. The right place would be £20/25. But others might want to change your outers and such as well so would cost more.

Doing it yourself is cheaper, but you've gotta buy the tools. A cable set you've already seen the price. You'll need wire cutters - can get away with pliers/wide cutters if needs be, depending how good they are will depend how strong and straight they cut the cable (it's steel after all). Cable ends easy to crimp on with something to stop the fraying. If you don't have anything then save yourself some hassle and get the Park Tools ones rather than chancing some £20 knock offs. The PT are a tool for life (had mine 6+ years). I cut everything with mine - hydraulic hoses, outers, cables and even the dogs toe nails...!

Got them tightish on the side with a torqx bit and torqued up properly to 6nm at home.

Half expect some teething issues with new bike. Always had them. But this was an interesting one to catch.
Torx? Thought they where allen (hex). Not the first time have heard of a Boardman with something loose which shouldn't have been! :(

You've probably not done the mileage to wear 1 pad more than the other from poor alighment but worth checking...
 
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