I think many people have come to the conclusion that a good dry lube should always be used. If its wet then you just need to reapply it more often.
Nope. Wet lube for commuting and winter (finish line green/Muc off blue) as they just have staying power for UK conditions. Sometimes a good dry lube in the spring/summer (muc off yellow). No point in the autumn, switch back to wet once it's raining more than once or twice a week. The muc off yellow has quite good staying power compared to other dry lubes I've used.
I don't recommend the muc off blue for winter riding/commuting. It's good, but mixed with either freezing temperatures or road salt (or combination of) it really thickens up and needs regular cleaning.
Best one and the one that I'm sticking with forever now is Fenwicks Professional, I'm not overly sure what it is exactly, but closest is like a drip wax as you need to leave it to dry before going out.
Linky?
I was going to go for the Silca wet weather one @Shadowness said about, but noticed it's a tiny tube - 59ml!
The Super Secret sounded really expensive (it is) but you do get 240ml of it, so must last a lot longer?! You get 4x as much for less than twice the price.
Iv not taken the cassette off properly before, only cleaned with brush usually and an old rag
Pretty much all you need to do. Only reasons for removing a cassette is to make it easier for a complete (scrub) clean or other maintenance (like freehub/bearings/axle). If you don't need to do it then brush and rag!
Tip: I actually clean mine with wheel out of the bike, lay it flat (I elevate mine with it sat on bar & saddle of my Zwifting bike with something over the contact points), then I use an old tshirt doubled over and 'floss' between the cogs to clean out the gunk and their surfaces. Usually after a brush/chain cleaner over the cog contact surfaces when cleaning the chain on the bike first.
All in, I have a strong suspicion that I will rarely touch my other bike now. This is just that much more suited for my riding.
Look great & glad you're enjoying it!
Really the Argon 18 Gallium CS reads like an endurance race bike, the 9.2 is an 'allroad' so not surprising it works well for good trails like that! Hearing more and more about 40mm tyres on the road being great. Biggest I've done where 32mm and they where quite heavy and felt 'boaty', but that might also have been the wheels. They where wide road wheels, but 'older' wide at 23mm (when everyone considered 19mm wide). Quite possible more modern wider (27mm+) rims designed for gravel or allroad they would fit and sit better.
If it's going to cost £60-100 I'd rather try do it myself. Although I spent the last 3 hours trying to sort this out
Far less. That's a 15-20 min shop job... So depending on the place will depend on the cost. The right place would be £20/25. But others might want to change your outers and such as well so would cost more.
Doing it yourself is cheaper, but you've gotta buy the tools. A cable set you've already seen the price. You'll need wire cutters - can get away with pliers/wide cutters if needs be, depending how good they are will depend how strong and straight they cut the cable (it's steel after all). Cable ends easy to crimp on with something to stop the fraying. If you don't have anything then save yourself some hassle and
get the Park Tools ones rather than chancing some £20 knock offs. The PT are a tool for life (had mine 6+ years). I cut everything with mine - hydraulic hoses, outers, cables and even the dogs toe nails...!
Got them tightish on the side with a torqx bit and torqued up properly to 6nm at home.
Half expect some teething issues with new bike. Always had them. But this was an interesting one to catch.
Torx? Thought they where allen (hex). Not the first time have heard of a Boardman with something loose which shouldn't have been!
You've probably not done the mileage to wear 1 pad more than the other from poor alighment but worth checking...