Have i got everything i'll need???

@orbitalwalsh

Didn't see your post edit regarding the 420mm cooler...just googled it and it looks insane!! AND only £10.00 more expensive than the corsair one i ordered but for double the cooling power!
Would you recommend i swap it?
Looking at the case, looks like, i can move the factory installed USB bay down one slot, then still have two slots left for my front VR and CD drive...:D
 
Kev1eighty7 said:
@orbitalwalsh

Didn't see your post edit regarding the 420mm cooler...just googled it and it looks insane!! AND only £10.00 more expensive than the corsair one i ordered but for double the cooling power!
Would you recommend i swap it?
Looking at the case, looks like, i can move the factory installed USB bay down one slot, then still have two slots left for my front VR and CD drive...:D
Click to expand...

Yeah I would, pump is a lot stronger , basically a lessor version of DDC pump units . Will admit it's more audio then Silent loop by far and in line with most Asetek units, topping up and getting rid of any air bubbles does help to - some slacking in their Chinese factory .
Unit can be expanded to run GPU block easily as well

mQ9gvkt.jpg

If you want pure power then Eisbaer. Forgot which board your going my most can auto detect pwm of 3 pin. Set a fan curve on it so when your not gaming pump is at low rpm . Then again might be fine running at 100% .
Is the position of the propeller and Res unit that makes it not silent like the Silent loop they make for Bequiet

Corsair will be using heat killer gear for their custom water loop stuff soon, and then you've got head staff that left EKWB heading to Corsair water division
 
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I will pal!!
Case is HUGE by the way, didn't realise it was a full tower till it arrived!! haha

Needed it though to be fair, lots of room for expansion/additions. Very future proof and solid built by the look of it
 
Kev1eighty7 said:
I will pal!!
Case is HUGE by the way, didn't realise it was a full tower till it arrived!! haha

Needed it though to be fair, lots of room for expansion/additions. Very future proof and solid built by the look of it
Click to expand...

Was that the Pro M, yeah , can case with 5.3" drive bays is gonna be big. Company's and retailers need to redo their case lists when they put these in the same midi class as NZXT s340 and Meshy C cases which are barely able to get a AIO in haha
 
@orbitalwalsh

Entho luxe tempered midi but it not midi its full deffo...rbg on the case looks great!!

Will this header be ok for me to hook up the VR front panel?

LyCOM UB-114i 2 Port USB 3.0 Card with Internal Connector

Also going to get a 19pin 3.0 male splitter to 2 female 3.0. Hdmi coming from back of VR panel will go straight to 1080 card.

Do you know how i can upload my build pics so far from a mac? When i press the image button it asks for an URL for each pic??? Am i best uploading them to some sort of file and copying the whole file into here?
 
Ah crumbs , I didn't realise the Ultra Gaming only had one internal USB 3.0 - seems from K3 board which has two, they swapped it for usb 3.1 connector :/

Yes either method should work fine to plug in VR cables . For the time being just plug it straight into the board and forgo the cases USB .
I know the bandwidth of the base stations are pushing usb 3.0 , not sure on the Headset though , so might be worth the card you've linked to avoid any issues

:)

If you felt like getting creative and have a Dremel , would be perfect haha

https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/www.caseking.de/en/lian-li-pw-ic2dah85-i-o-panel-fuer-o-und-dk-serie-usb-typ-c-hdmi-zuad-863.html?template=amp

Two be honest, don't think you'd need all 4 usb 3.0 at the front unless you'll be connections a load of devices that are 3.0 whilst your VR gaming ?
 
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No worries i think I've sort a solution, the additional card will get me a further two 29 pin 3.0 headers so again, future proofing further. Yes, ill have a wheel and pedal setup for the racing sims so will need at least one if not two USB for those and then another or so for VR. Happy enough to go ahead and get that PCI card and an adapter/splitter. Cable management will be ok as ill do the male and female connections out the back out of sight :)

Graphics card hasn't turned up yet unfortunately so when it does ill install and get all the build pics up on here for you to scrutinise!! :D :D
 
Kev1eighty7 said:
No worries i think I've sort a solution, the additional card will get me a further two 29 pin 3.0 headers so again, future proofing further. Yes, ill have a wheel and pedal setup for the racing sims so will need at least one if not two USB for those and then another or so for VR. Happy enough to go ahead and get that PCI card and an adapter/splitter. Cable management will be ok as ill do the male and female connections out the back out of sight :)

Graphics card hasn't turned up yet unfortunately so when it does ill install and get all the build pics up on here for you to scrutinise!! :D :D
Click to expand...

Sounds like you've got a solid solution :D

I tend to set up Intel rigs with GPU to install windows and software the whack in the GPU afterwards . I go as far as leaving bios to default and only one stick of ram haha
 
First time build pics are here gents! PLEASE CRITIQUE!! Click imgur link below

https://imgur.com/a/kKLnR

Final spec was:
My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £1,880.77 (includes shipping: £0.00)
​
 
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I was tinkering with that earlier mate, i plugged the case RGB connector into the MOBO RGB header...worked but then died, I've determined I've blown the case RGB PCB as I've since found out the wire i plugged in was only an output so me putting input through it has fried it ! LOL
Im going to try and blag one from phanteks RMA
 
Kev1eighty7 said:
I was tinkering with that earlier mate, i plugged the case RGB connector into the MOBO RGB header...worked but then died, I've determined I've blown the case RGB PCB as I've since found out the wire i plugged in was only an output so me putting input through it has fried it ! LOL
Im going to try and blag one from phanteks RMA
Click to expand...

Out put ? Didn't know the cases were different . Guessing since they have their own controller must have been conflicting with each other ?
 
@orbitalwalsh

Yes mate, they must be conflicting currents or something. Anyway good news is a new led board is being shipped in 1-3weeks. Great stuff!

Also, if i keep the 10gbps card will i be able to overclock it to the same as you have done yours or will i be better getting the 11gbps Rev1.0 version and then overclock that? I think i can pick an 11gpbs for £540.00...
Cheers
 
Kev1eighty7 said:
@orbitalwalsh

Yes mate, they must be conflicting currents or something. Anyway good news is a new led board is being shipped in 1-3weeks. Great stuff!

Also, if i keep the 10gbps card will i be able to overclock it to the same as you have done yours or will i be better getting the 11gbps Rev1.0 version and then overclock that? I think i can pick an 11gpbs for £540.00...
Cheers
Click to expand...

10gbps version Should be able to hit close to 10,600-10,900 overclock - again luck of the draw
11gbps should hit 11,600 to 12gbps , as above luck of the draw .
If you can get a 11gbos version for the same price or cheaper the any gtx 1080 10gbps then do so .
It depends of the person's definition of value for money , paying less for 11gbps version then a 10gbps is a win for me personally .
Not a lot of vendors actually sold 11gbps version too !
 
yeah fair point mate, looking at it that way it makes sense, getting more for your money at an even better price!! Ill let you know how i get on!

Also, what sort of settings have you changed in the BIOS, I've bought a fan splitter cable and after some trial and error I've worked out what headers all my fans, AIO rad fans, AIO fan header etc all plug into. So I'm going to set them all to PWM in the BIOS, will also put a temperature alert on the CPU and GPU i think. that sound good?
 
Kev1eighty7 said:
yeah fair point mate, looking at it that way it makes sense, getting more for your money at an even better price!! Ill let you know how i get on!

Also, what sort of settings have you changed in the BIOS, I've bought a fan splitter cable and after some trial and error I've worked out what headers all my fans, AIO rad fans, AIO fan header etc all plug into. So I'm going to set them all to PWM in the BIOS, will also put a temperature alert on the CPU and GPU i think. that sound good?
Click to expand...

I've only tended to use bequiet and Alphacool gear, which either is set to 100% for bequiets AIO as it's silent and let BIOS profile handle its fans via PWM profile .
With Alphacool custom gear, I normally use silent wings or eloop fans which i set to 100% the tweak down till I can just hear them which is 80% odd, then again you pay the price at £20-25 a pop!

When building without the above two, I normally set custom fan profile to provide maximum airflow to GPU when gaming . Some boards allow you to set custom fan profile to GPU sets others don't . Will just go along the lines on fans set to CPU temp.
Leave all at default and run some games and bench marks. I think out what average temps the CPU hits , then in bios find out what maximum rpm I can stand sound wise and set it so when CPU hits that temp, IN TAKE FANs hit that rpm. This is so the GPU mainly and CPU get best airflow possible (assuming your AIO is at top) .
No idea what Asetek pumps sound like so you'll have to experiment with that .

Everyone has their own methods for settings fan profiles , or could just stick to given sets in bios :)
 
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