What "man jobs" have you done today?

[Skiddley]

Finishing off my patio, and built myself a new step out of reclaimed Stock brick, and spare indian sandstone and resin grout. Cost me about £5 to build

 

[Sin_Chase]

Finished boarding big wall. Particularly happy with the pipe and soil pipe cut outs. Measured about 10 times and used a cardboard template too. Soil pipe cut out could have been a little tighter but it comes out of the wall on a gradient.

Boxed in basin waste and started building framework for the counter top sink.

 

[topgun06]

Finished boarding big wall. Particularly happy with the pipe and soil pipe cut outs. Measured about 10 times and used a cardboard template too. Soil pipe cut out could have been a little tighter but it comes out of the wall on a gradient.

Boxed in basin waste and started building framework for the counter top sink.

Top work! Cue a load of questions:

What is that metal framework you've used to stud out the walls?
What was the insulation you used?
What depth of insulation did you insrall?

I think I am going to be doing something very similar to this.

I'm certainly going to need some insulation. It is a first floor extension out the back. Three external non cavity walls, and I'm dubious about the insulation in the loft space. I haven't had chance to check yet as I will involve climbing up and removing some tiles to see. The extension is inasessible from the main loft.

 

[Sin_Chase]

It's British Gypsum Gyplyner Universal. Its designed to stud out uneven walls using standoff brackets. Very easy to to work with but I recommend reading the white papers and installation guides.

50mm insulation. Rockwool acoustic to the board the window void and thermal insulation which is Actis Hybris (shiny stuff on external walls). Both in 50mm as I don't want massive intrusion onto the floor space. I'll be honest I didn't heavily research the insulation as I was in builders merchant at the time time and just needed it bought. It's what they recommended however.

The Hybris is much nicer to work with than fibrous materials. Stanley blade and cut it, no itchiness and debris to endure. How it compares to the completing products I've no idea though!

 

[{SAS}TB]

Few jobs over the weekend

Swapped out a light switch in the lounge- old white plastic one




for a new brushed metal one



Also hung a few pictures





Then did a bit in a room I stripped out bak in February :O

So, back in feb, it looked like this





And I stripped it out and right back













It been like that (aprt from taking the gripper rods up and filling some cracks) since ....

This weekend I painted it through and then fixed some MDF sheet, routered to look like T&G to the one wall and painted the lot















Going to form a cupboard at the end, then a long coat hook rail along the cladded wall, new light, metal light switch to match the lounge and on to the next room ...

 

[Participant]

Good work.

I always find it interesting how people seem to want to make a feature out of their light switches and power sockets. For me, whatever most blends in with the surrounding decor and minimises the impact is the winner. Guess it's just one of those taste things, but the ideal for me would be that they're invisible (notwithstanding the practicality aspect of that!).

 

[Sin_Chase]

Make sure those metal light switches are earthed at the faceplate!

 

[{SAS}TB]

Thanks chaps

@Sin_Chase the faceplate has a plastic liner on the rear

Good job really as there is no Earth cable .....

@Participant - the old one really needed replacing and thought we'd try this one - I like it, the Mrs isn't sold yet, could go either way (I.e. Until she tells me it's ok or swap it )

 

[Sin_Chase]

Thanks chaps

@Sin_Chase the faceplate has a plastic liner on the rear

Good job really as there is no Earth cable .....

Ah, Class 2/Double Insulated rated then?

 

[{SAS}TB]

No idea it's an older (1950s) property, with just a live and neutral ..... ?

 

[Sin_Chase]

I meant the light switch itself.

I'd check it's double insulated or at least have RCD/RCBO protection on the lighting circuit.

Double Insulation logo looks like a box in a box.

Without either of those protections (Doubled Insulated switch/RCD) or direct earthing a metal light switch can expose a live current directly to the faceplate in a failure situation..... Nasty!

To clarify you shouldn't have to rely on RCD/RCBO tripping for the protection of an unearthed metal faceplate. It's just a whole lot safer in worst case scenario than a circuit with no RCD/RCBO protection.

 

[Kimi]

Built 6 IKEA cupboards.

Garden maintenance.

Need to take the render off my bathroom wall. Looked at it and decided I'd do it next week

Not sure the best way to get it back to block other than bashing with a hammer and chisel?

 

[{SAS}TB]

I meant the light switch itself.

I'd check it's double insulated or at least have RCD/RCBO protection on the lighting circuit.

Double Insulation logo looks like a box in a box.

Without either of those protections (Doubled Insulated switch/RCD) or direct earthing a metal light switch can expose a live current directly to the faceplate in a failure situation..... Nasty!

To clarify you shouldn't have to rely on RCD/RCBO tripping for the protection of an unearthed metal faceplate. It's just a whole lot safer in worst case scenario than a circuit with no RCD/RCBO protection.

Thanks, I can't see anything on the switch itself - I have anogher sealed one somewhere, ill look on the packaging, but the entire inside is plastic lined (including the "clear" bit between the grey connectors and the edge of the switch



Have RCD as well

 

[{SAS}TB]

Built 6 IKEA cupboards.

Garden maintenance.

Need to take the render off my bathroom wall. Looked at it and decided I'd do it next week

Not sure the best way to get it back to block other than bashing with a hammer and chisel?

Hammer and bolster is probably your best bet

 

[topgun06]

It's British Gypsum Gyplyner Universal. Its designed to stud out uneven walls using standoff brackets. Very easy to to work with but I recommend reading the white papers and installation guides.

50mm insulation. Rockwool acoustic to the board the window void and thermal insulation which is Actis Hybris (shiny stuff on external walls). Both in 50mm as I don't want massive intrusion onto the floor space. I'll be honest I didn't heavily research the insulation as I was in builders merchant at the time time and just needed it bought. It's what they recommended however.

The Hybris is much nicer to work with than fibrous materials. Stanley blade and cut it, no itchiness and debris to endure. How it compares to the completing products I've no idea though!

Lovely stuff! Thanks for the info. I'll be able to board out two of the three external walls

The door has probably 10mm clearance from the frame to the adjoining wall. This means that any kind of boarding out will be a no go on this wall. Does anyone have any ideas how I can improve the thermals of this wall? As per lovely diagram:

 

[Buffman]

Lovely stuff! Thanks for the info. I'll be able to board out two of the three external walls

The door has probably 10mm clearance from the frame to the adjoining wall. This means that any kind of boarding out will be a no go on this wall. Does anyone have any ideas how I can improve the thermals of this wall? As per lovely diagram:

Is it an internal wall? Then it won't need insulating.

Also looks like your door swings the wrong way?

You could replace the door frame?

 

[dark-knight]

Then did a bit in a room I stripped out back in February :O

So, back in Feb, it looked like this





And I stripped it out and right back






It been like that (aprt from taking the gripper rods up and filling some cracks) since ....

This weekend I painted it through and then fixed some MDF sheet, routered to look like T&G to the one wall and painted the lot














Going to form a cupboard at the end, then a long coat hook rail along the cladded wall, new light, metal light switch to match the lounge and on to the next room ...

That has to be the smallest(narrowest) room I have ever seen, especially with the fuse box and assorted switches behind the door and a radiator in there too. What was it used for ?.

Good job though, much better than it was

 

[{SAS}TB]

Thanks and, lol, yes its like 3.6m odd by 870mm (one of the reasons for using 9mm cladding rather than a frame and traditional T&G!)

We only moved in in May last year and it was just a bit of a dumping ground on that built in shelf / cupboard, but you had to walk in sideways like a crab to use it so very imprtactical. I think the (elderly) previous owners installed it but god know what their thinking was and what they did / used it for .....

Bought the frame / lining today so hoping to crack on with the cupboard / shelves so we can then measure up for the long coat hook rail and get it finished ....

 

[topgun06]

Is it an internal wall? Then it won't need insulating.

Also looks like your door swings the wrong way?

You could replace the door frame?

It is an external wall. The N E and W walls on the diagram are external. And yes, you're right, the diagram is wrong in that the door does swing the other way. Still, the door frame and door opening is too close to the wall if I wanted to put some insulation in.

And even if I did manage it, Id have to plaster the boards so I could do some painting as I wasn't planning on tiling that wall entirely.

 

[Gaijin]

Finally tested my outdoor lighting and i'm very pleased. Best part of a years work (including other bits).




Looks very bright in this pic due to the duff phone camera but the above pic is more representative. We were after a more mellow, welcoming glow.