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1366 X58 Xeon 5650

hornetstinger said:
My 5670 runs cooler than the 950. Noctua D14.
Click to expand...

Yeah because the D14, if it's the one I think it is was pretty high end for the time, that'll work well. I think I still have one of those lying around!


KungFuSpaghetti said:
That makes sense, I'll stick with these water blocks then and utilise them, would be a shame not to I suppose! It has 3 water blocks already installed, I'll need a rad and what else, as I've never used water cooling of any kind before.
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Depends what you're going to watercool really. If you want to put the CPU on there too you'll have to buy a block for it, that would add a bit of cost. You need a 120mm for each component at a minimum. Just for motherboard and CPU a slim 30mm thick 360mm rad would work well. So then you'd need say 6 fittings for the motherboard blocks, 2 for the cpu, 2 for the pump and res if it's a combo unit, tubing, the 360mm rad, 3 high static pressure fans, and either a pump and tube res combo or a bay res and pump combo. It'll set you about £200 depending on what you get.
You should've avoided buying a watercooled motherboard if you're not watercooling really. That cheap setup you just thought you nabbed suddenly tripled in cost!

3 Blocks? Are two small ones near the CPU and a bigger one further down? The ones further down will be for NB/SB. Those can be cooled easily with a decent heatsink. The NB I'd recommend finding a small one with a little fan on it. Those normally can be stuck on with thermal adhesive that normally comes with them. It's the VRM's you're going to struggle with, they can go beyond 80-90 degrees, you'd need some chunky heatpipe setup or active fan cooling. Check ebay if you can find heatsinks compatible with that board?
 
KungFuSpaghetti said:
hmm, think I'll look to go back to a passive setup all round then, as the NB/SB and VRM has EK blocks on. Closed loop for the CPU.

Any idea where I can get passive cooling for the NB/SB and VRM from?
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No! That's the problem. You'll have to do some serious digging around to find something that will work and will cool those vrm's well enough to not fry the board and cpu.


The only ones widely available online are called VGA Ram heatsinks. Those will work easy for the NB and SB as you can just bundle a bunch together to cover them, but the VRM's need thicker heatsinks because they run so hot.
 
"Enzotech MST-88 Forged Copper Mosfet Heatsink - ASUS P6T / Rampage II Extreme"

Something like that looks like it could work, however these will be extremely hard to find now. I can't post any links
 
My cooler isn't even as good as the DH-14 and still copes fine with Westmere-EP (maybe not if I was at 4.4+ GHz all cores though). I don't use the LNA or ULNA with the fans but they are Noctua so quiet anyway. One thing I'll look to do with my next build (whenever that might happen) is to get a quieter setup but that's just me being nit-picky. My GPU fan is only noticeable at over 40% and I run it at 50% when gaming, and my CPU and case fans are not at all loud or distracting.
 
KungFuSpaghetti said:
Found this for the NB, possibly overkill, but it looks good. I'll get a cheapo one for the SB as they don't get as hot.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0...e+heatsink&dpPl=1&dpID=515oMJY1rWL&ref=plSrch
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Yeah definitely overkill, how will that thing stick on? Thermal Adhesive? It's a tower style cooler so mounted sideways with the motherboard in a case how will it stay in place without toppling over

EDIT: "Could not be used on those Northbridge chipset which lack mounting holes around it"

Double check the placement of the holes on your NB.

You really should double check things before you pull the trigger. First a watercooled MB and now this :p:D
 
Not bought them yet lol. I'm going to wait for the board to turn up. Looking at the original mosfet and nb/sb heatsinks, anything looks like an improvement. Some forged or standard copper heatsinks would be better.
 
Harpss1ngh said:
You should be able to get more out of that. 4ghz below 1.35v should be possible. Try 22x180, 22x184, etc. Even numbers work better than odd numbers. 22 seems to be the sweet spot for multiplier, even if your chip can do more
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Tried 22x180 but RAM is set to 1440 not 1600, and it crashes upon windows load up.

https://ibb.co/mscBAw
That's my config I've been using for a while.
 
hornetstinger said:
ok tried a few settings.

https://ibb.co/kwDknb
https://ibb.co/hFo1Sb
https://ibb.co/iByPfw
https://ibb.co/ePeVLw

Looks better?
Click to expand...

Not bad, how are temps? Run a stress test with real temp running for a while. Also as you kept Load Line Calibration as standard, what happens to the voltage in cpu-z when you run a stress test? Try changing the levels so that it doesn't droop too much under load, that can cause instability and setting a level can keep it stable. Try adjusting that and CPU/PCI Express clock drives (shouldn't need to change the PCI Express clock drive from 0 as you're not overclocking it.). Have you disabled intel speed step and c states, etc? Try going 21x200 or 22x200, you'll want more volts on the CPU, 1.35v or 1.4v. QPI voltage can be nudged up too, try 1.3 or 1.35v. As long as temps don't hit high 80s it should be ok.

Just experiment, as long as you don't go too crazy with voltages beyond 1.4v or hitting really high temps it's perfectly safe to see how hard you can push it.
 
With your advice on here, Harpss1ngh, I've bought myself an Asus P6X58D-E (w/ DDR3 RAM) and an X5650 (also an X5550 for £4.25 ;)

I will use the X5550 to try my hand at overclocking before I touch the X5650, as a experiment and back up chip.

The components I have already bought are:
Motherboard
RAM
CPU
CPU cooler (Cryorig H5 universal)
HDD

On black Friday I will be picking up the remaining 3 components regardless of price, which are: case (Fractal Design Focus G - cooler will fit easily and looks easy for a first timer to build in), GPU (GTX 1060 6GB) and PSU (650W Gold EVGA GQ modular).

This will be my first build and I am very confident and excited because I have spent SO much time watching people build computers on YouTube that I could probably instruct someone else to do it. :p

I'll let you know how I fare with overclocking.
 
Harpss1ngh said:
Not bad, how are temps? Run a stress test with real temp running for a while. Also as you kept Load Line Calibration as standard, what happens to the voltage in cpu-z when you run a stress test? Try changing the levels so that it doesn't droop too much under load, that can cause instability and setting a level can keep it stable. Try adjusting that and CPU/PCI Express clock drives (shouldn't need to change the PCI Express clock drive from 0 as you're not overclocking it.). Have you disabled intel speed step and c states, etc? Try going 21x200 or 22x200, you'll want more volts on the CPU, 1.35v or 1.4v. QPI voltage can be nudged up too, try 1.3 or 1.35v. As long as temps don't hit high 80s it should be ok.

Just experiment, as long as you don't go too crazy with voltages beyond 1.4v or hitting really high temps it's perfectly safe to see how hard you can push it.
Click to expand...

Won't go above 1.35v, at that it's 50, 1.25v its 10 degrees cooler
 
hornetstinger said:
Won't go above 1.35v, at that it's 50, 1.25v its 10 degrees cooler
Click to expand...

50 degrees CPU at 100% stress? Sounds too cool for that voltage (heh)....what clock speed are you achieving with that voltage? I use Intel Burn Test at Maximum but there's planty others out there, but Intel Burn Test running for half hour does a great job at stressing the hell out of these, you want that to get a good idea of stability and temps at the settings you have chosen. That chip has to be capable of more if the temps are correct, it's definitely got a lot of headroom at those temps.

Set QPI to 1.35v too, then crank it up
 
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Saffy said:
With your advice on here, Harpss1ngh, I've bought myself an Asus P6X58D-E (w/ DDR3 RAM) and an X5650 (also an X5550 for £4.25 ;)

I will use the X5550 to try my hand at overclocking before I touch the X5650, as a experiment and back up chip.

The components I have already bought are:
Motherboard
RAM
CPU
CPU cooler (Cryorig H5 universal)
HDD

On black Friday I will be picking up the remaining 3 components regardless of price, which are: case (Fractal Design Focus G - cooler will fit easily and looks easy for a first timer to build in), GPU (GTX 1060 6GB) and PSU (650W Gold EVGA GQ modular).

This will be my first build and I am very confident and excited because I have spent SO much time watching people build computers on YouTube that I could probably instruct someone else to do it. :p

I'll let you know how I fare with overclocking.
Click to expand...

You got yourself a bargain with that x5550, I'd keep that depending on how far it goes.

With the p6x58d-e you can safely crank the voltages, on the voltage menu the voltages are highlighted in colours that indicate if it's safe or not, they go from Blue, yellow, pink and red from what I remember, you can crank the vcore all the way to the last voltage number highlighted pink safely, I usually hit the first red one. Do the same for QPI.

Anyway, have a play and let me know what settings you have, i'll send you a copy of mine. And make sure that board has the latest firmware.

A 1060? What games and what resolution do you play? I'd go for a 1070 or 1070ti at least. Or a last gen 980 or 980ti as they're great performance GPU's for a good price on the used market compared to a 1060 and will beat a 1060 or 1070 easy. You'd have to go with a 750w or 850w cpu I think, try a PSU calculator. Also definitely get an SSD to get the most out of this set up.
 
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pokerking said:
What is better this or an i7 980x?
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Depends on the price you can get it for. The Xeon's are everywhere, they're all pulled from servers that are now end of life so you can get them for a steal. You'll find the Xeon's are a tad quicker clock for clock. Price per performance wise the Xeons are a much better deal. The 980x is just clocked higher but will overclock to the same speed so better to just get a Xeon, even an x5650. Also, the Xeon's have a 20 degree higher temp limit, you can run them uo to 80 degrees at full stress, the 980x's max is 67 degrees. You can crank the xeons voltage higher without any noticable degradation
 
Harpss1ngh said:
Depends on the price you can get it for. The Xeon's are everywhere, they're all pulled from servers that are now end of life so you can get them for a steal. You'll find the Xeon's are a tad quicker clock for clock. Price per performance wise the Xeons are a much better deal. The 980x is just clocked higher but will overclock to the same speed so better to just get a Xeon, even an x5650. Also, the Xeon's have a 20 degree higher temp limit, you can run them uo to 80 degrees at full stress, the 980x's max is 67 degrees. You can crank the xeons voltage higher without any noticable degradation
Click to expand...


Brilliant thank you! Hoping to build a budget gaming rig, only need it for gtav and civ 5/6 but will be using a 4k uhd display. Have a 980ti so trying to build around this. Will it handle 4k ok?
 
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