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1366 X58 Xeon 5650

You can check sold listings to see the price they've been going for. There's two versions of this btw. There's P6X58D-E and Premium

Prices seem all over the place on these, but seem to be around the £100-120 mark for branded LGA1366 boards, which seems high for an old board. There's a crap load of generic x58 'Intel' boards for sale too, all brand new from the far east. I'm guessing these should be avoided like the plague??
 
Interesting. My X5650 @ 4.4Ghz only needs 1.35V (in bios) which translates to 1.344v under load in Windows.

Proves the point about not needing more than an X5650 it seems.
My X5650 is also set to 1.35 V and I have it at 188x22-23 at the moment. I did have it at 191 BCLK but notched it down a bit after getting some crashes. I think they were more likely due to my GPU overclock/undervolt but couldn't be sure at the time. Going higher than 188 adds the complication of needing to overclock the RAM too.
 
My X5650 is also set to 1.35 V and I have it at 188x22-23 at the moment. I did have it at 191 BCLK but notched it down a bit after getting some crashes. I think they were more likely due to my GPU overclock/undervolt but couldn't be sure at the time. Going higher than 188 adds the complication of needing to overclock the RAM too.

If you don't mind me asking, what passmark scores have you achieved with that chip when it's overcooked? (Single and multi)
 
My X5650 is also set to 1.35 V and I have it at 188x22-23 at the moment. I did have it at 191 BCLK but notched it down a bit after getting some crashes. I think they were more likely due to my GPU overclock/undervolt but couldn't be sure at the time. Going higher than 188 adds the complication of needing to overclock the RAM too.

Have you tried even numbers instead of odd numbers? Set multi at 22, bclk 192, 194, 196, etc instead of 191, 193, etc. Your Ram is clocked at 1900 as per your sig? Try setting different RAM multi's. You want to reduce the stress on the memory controller to achieve higher stable overclocks.

Disable Load Line Calibration, put the CPU at 1.4v, PLL 1.80v. RAM 1.65v (or whatever the label on the stick says, not the JEDEC standard in CPU-Z, or just set the XMP profile. The rest can stay at auto. Once stable, start reducing the voltage until it fails and then go up a couple notches for stability
 
If you don't mind me asking, what passmark scores have you achieved with that chip when it's overcooked? (Single and multi)
No idea. Won't be home until next week to test, sorry.

Have you tried even numbers instead of odd numbers? Set multi at 22, bclk 192, 194, 196, etc instead of 191, 193, etc. Your Ram is clocked at 1900 as per your sig? Try setting different RAM multi's. You want to reduce the stress on the memory controller to achieve higher stable overclocks.

Disable Load Line Calibration, put the CPU at 1.4v, PLL 1.80v. RAM 1.65v (or whatever the label on the stick says, not the JEDEC standard in CPU-Z, or just set the XMP profile. The rest can stay at auto. Once stable, start reducing the voltage until it fails and then go up a couple notches for stability
Well 188 is pretty close to 191. I could've tried 190 but time is limited. The problem is that high BCLK values limit what you can do with the multipliers: for example, the next RAM multiplier down is 8x, which at 190 BCLK is only 1520 MHz.

I am hesitant to go above 1.35 V on this chip, not just for longevity but temperatures. They are fine when gaming but can get to mid-high 80s when doing overnight x264 runs. I also already know my board does not like anything above 200 MHz BCLK at all, which means setting it at ~190 gets the most out of the RAM. Maybe an extra 200 MHz on the CPU would outweigh losing 300 MHz on the RAM but I'm not sure if I can be bothered to test that.
 
No idea. Won't be home until next week to test, sorry.


Well 188 is pretty close to 191. I could've tried 190 but time is limited. The problem is that high BCLK values limit what you can do with the multipliers: for example, the next RAM multiplier down is 8x, which at 190 BCLK is only 1520 MHz.

I am hesitant to go above 1.35 V on this chip, not just for longevity but temperatures. They are fine when gaming but can get to mid-high 80s when doing overnight x264 runs. I also already know my board does not like anything above 200 MHz BCLK at all, which means setting it at ~190 gets the most out of the RAM. Maybe an extra 200 MHz on the CPU would outweigh losing 300 MHz on the RAM but I'm not sure if I can be bothered to test that.

Yeah getting a board than can do 200bclk would help you considerably. My P6X58D-E is watercooled so that probably helps too. As long as temps are ok, 1.4v would be fine for longevity. As you're probably air cooling, it's probably the best you can get out of it without having to change your cooling. It might also just be the highest your particular chip can go. You probably won't see any real world performance improvement changing anything/spending more money anyway.

Just enjoy it before you get the upgrade itch :). I'm staring at the i9-7900x pre-binned CPU and my trigger finger is getting itchy :P
 
No but don't see why it wouldn't work provided you set the correct voltage and timings, etc. Give it a try. Might give you better overclocks from using different ram multis.

Okay, prepare for a load more questions! lol
I've just managed to bag myself what I think is a bargain on ebay. Asus P6T Deluxe v2 with 3 EK Black Waterblocks for £70. Seen a couple of these boards for sale on there, both were around £180+shipping.
Next up... CPU! I've found a load of the following: x5650, x5660, x5680 and x5690.
Any advice on which to go for? I've almost ruled out the x5690 due to it being twice the price of the x5680. Seems as though a load of people in this thread have the x5650 and x5660 overclocked. My plan is to overclock whatever I go for, is there much difference between these chips when all overclocked?
 
Okay, prepare for a load more questions! lol
I've just managed to bag myself what I think is a bargain on ebay. Asus P6T Deluxe v2 with 3 EK Black Waterblocks for £70. Seen a couple of these boards for sale on there, both were around £180+shipping.
Next up... CPU! I've found a load of the following: x5650, x5660, x5680 and x5690.
Any advice on which to go for? I've almost ruled out the x5690 due to it being twice the price of the x5680. Seems as though a load of people in this thread have the x5650 and x5660 overclocked. My plan is to overclock whatever I go for, is there much difference between these chips when all overclocked?

No difference whatsoever, it's the exact same chip.

If you're serious about overclocking it, especially a x5680 then find a better board. P6X58D-E like mine likes to go beyond 200 bclk which allows you to start hitting 4.2-4.4 and beyond provided you keep it all cool.

Not sure the p6t can do that
 
No difference whatsoever, it's the exact same chip.

If you're serious about overclocking it, especially a x5680 then find a better board. P6X58D-E like mine likes to go beyond 200 bclk which allows you to start hitting 4.2-4.4 and beyond provided you keep it all cool.

Not sure the p6t can do that

That's good to know, so £21 for an x5650 seems like a steal! With the board I've just bought, what will I realistically be able to overclock it to, as I've seen a couple of people using these and claiming 4.1 to 4.4ghz? I was thinking of getting something like this: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/cooler-master-hyper-212-evo-cpu-cooler-hs-035-cm.html or should I be looking at water cooling?

I've also no intention of running water cooling on the mobo, but will leave the water blocks on as passive heat spreaders.
 
What you'll be able to clock to is down to the whims of the silicon gods.

My advice would be to get a decent AIO. The one in my sig keeps mine nice and cool with minimal sound.

I did run with a 90mm air cooler while in between AIO's, but could only run at 4Ghz and it did get very loud under load.
Obviously 120mm air will be better, but I still wouldn't fancy it.
 
MasterLiquid 240 seems reasonably priced and is low on the dB scale.

As the board I got came with EK blocks, will these need replacing with heatsinks if I don't water cool, or should they be safe enough to act as passive heatsinks?
 
That's good to know, so £21 for an x5650 seems like a steal! With the board I've just bought, what will I realistically be able to overclock it to, as I've seen a couple of people using these and claiming 4.1 to 4.4ghz? I was thinking of getting something like this: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/cooler-master-hyper-212-evo-cpu-cooler-hs-035-cm.html or should I be looking at water cooling?

I've also no intention of running water cooling on the mobo, but will leave the water blocks on as passive heat spreaders.

These Xeons pump out a ton of heat. They're power hungry. A cheap 30 quid cooler isn't going to cut it with a 130 tdp 6 core Xeon! You need high end air cooling or an AIO. I have a full custom loop and even with that the temps can hit the high 70s depending on the overclock I use. You don't necessarily need a full custom waterloop but something decent. Especially at the clocks you're asking about.

With your board you won't get more than 4.1 or 4.2 at a stretch and high temps and volts. You'll have better luck with a board like mine or better that has better vrms and caps. And those vrms need good airflow cooling inside the case too. Mines under water and they dump a ton of heat into it.
 
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MasterLiquid 240 seems reasonably priced and is low on the dB scale.

As the board I got came with EK blocks, will these need replacing with heatsinks if I don't water cool, or should they be safe enough to act as passive heatsinks?

Honestly I'd tell you just to put it under water if you have the blocks already, its very easy to do. Those blocks are expensive so I'd utilise them. You HAVE to get decent cooling for the vrms. After market passive cooling solution for that motherboard to replace the waterblocks isn't going to be easy. They won't perform as well as the original motherboard's either.

If you mentioned that earlier and that you don't want to watercool I'd have advised you not to get it and get the p6x58d-e instead.
 
These Xeons pump out a ton of heat. They're power hungry. A cheap 30 quid cooler isn't going to cut it with a 130 tdp 6 core Zeon! You need high end air cooling or an AIO. I have a full custom loop and even with that the temps can hit the high 70s depending on the overclock I use. You don't necessarily need a full custom waterloop but something decent. Especially at the clocks you're asking about.

With your board you won't get more than 4.1 or 4.2 at a stretch. You'll have better luck with a board like mine or better that has better vrms and caps. And those vrms need good airflow cooling inside the case too. Mines under water and they dump a ton of heat into it.

Okay thanks for the heads up, I'll order the MasterLiquid 240 then (unless you recommend something else!) and would be happy with a stable 4.0ghz. With regards to these EK waterblocks, what else is needed? May as well stick with them at this stage lol.
 
Okay thanks for the heads up, I'll order the MasterLiquid 240 then (unless you recommend something else!) and would be happy with a stable 4.0ghz. With regards to these EK waterblocks, what else is needed? May as well stick with them at this stage lol.

You can't run the board with those on without either watercooling the board or scouring the internet for coolers that might work. Either the vrms or the cpu will go bang, if not both.

You might have heard of the vrm issues on recent skylake motherboards which occurrs even with their decent cooling, compare that to a 7 year old cpu and motherboard older less efficient (=Hotter) architecture. Combine that with waterblocks, which simply will not dissipate heat passively (because blocks aren't headsinks!) and imagine the fireworks display you'll witness inside your case!
 
You can't run the board with those on without either watercooling the board or scouring the internet for coolers that might work. Either the vrms or the cpu will go bang, if not both.

You might have heard of the vrm issues on recent skylake motherboards which occurrs even with their decent cooling, compare that to a 7 year old cpu and motherboard older less efficient (=Hotter) architecture. Combine that with waterblocks, which simply will not dissipate heat passively (because blocks aren't headsinks!) and imagine the fireworks display you'll witness inside your case!

That makes sense, I'll stick with these water blocks then and utilise them, would be a shame not to I suppose! It has 3 water blocks already installed, I'll need a rad and what else, as I've never used water cooling of any kind before.
 
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