1930s Semi Refurb - Part 1 of ... (Edition: Bathroom Relocation)

[dlockers]

Yep... thinking this now.

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[LuckyBenski]

2.2 width (door wall), 2.4 length (door to window).

It's bigger than mine

Yep... thinking this now.

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Short and wide!

E: mine is 1.8m wide x 2.7m long (with a bit of boxed pipes in corner)

 

[dlockers]

Reeeet.........think I am set on a totally different track now.

I'd really appreciate any guidance on building out the false wall to house the bath taps - I want to keep it as tight as possible - I think the Grohe wall mount unit can cope with 135mm min distance, and most niches I have seen are 100mm deep.

Potentially a lower niche for bath bomb stuff, too.

 

[GarethSouthpete]

Won't the niche fill up with water from the shower?

 

[dlockers]

Won't the niche fill up with water from the shower?

Yeah but they are waterproofed formers with a drop, so it'll just drain out.

I plan to remove all of the plaster from that wall, and the left hand wall looking at the photo, to insulate.

 

[Showboat]

Are you putting the shower in behind the door? It looks like space is limited height wise with the sloping roof. Most shower enclosures are about 2m high, so you may need something custom.

 

[200sols]

Won't the niche fill up with water from the shower?

Not really they are set high enough to avoid most water but they are fully waterproof and the tiling on the base should allow a run off.

 

[200sols]

Yeah but they are waterproofed formers with a drop, so it'll just drain out.

I plan to remove all of the plaster from that wall, and the left hand wall looking at the photo, to insulate.

The xps tile boards are also insulation. So you can just use a thicker board and solve 2 jobs in one.

 

[dlockers]

Are you putting the shower in behind the door? It looks like space is limited height wise with the sloping roof. Most shower enclosures are about 2m high, so you may need something custom.

Yeah ironically I'm building exactly what I already have just in a different room.

So I know the slant is within tolerance/has never been an issue. I just need to be mindful the new bath isn't super high.

The niche in this bathroom came for free as they blocked up an old window with a single thickness brick.

 

[mickyflinn]

Personally don't like the position of the wall mounted taps to much temptation for kids sitting on the loo.

Would also tile the wall above the toilet.

 

[200sols]

Reeeet.........think I am set on a totally different track now.

I'd really appreciate any guidance on building out the false wall to house the bath taps - I want to keep it as tight as possible - I think the Grohe wall mount unit can cope with 135mm min distance, and most niches I have seen are 100mm deep.

Potentially a lower niche for bath bomb stuff, too.

Is it a solid wall there?

Don't worry building a stud wall is very simple. I'd advise getting the frame first and a dry fit of plumbing and waste then you can ensure it will fit. Sometimes the minimum distance doesn't work with the soil pipe placements.

 

[dlockers]

The xps tile boards are also insulation. So you can just use a thicker board and solve 2 jobs in one.

What I can't get my head around tho is building the false wall. Presumably I want the plumbing on the warm side to stop condensation, so either way I'd be insulated the wall, then building the false wall from that bit?

You're still right but maybe if it's cheaper I can get non tileboard stuff?

 

[200sols]

What I can't get my head around tho is building the false wall. Presumably I want the plumbing on the warm side to stop condensation, so either way I'd be insulated the wall, then building the false wall from that bit?

You're still right but maybe if it's cheaper I can get non tileboard stuff?

I maybe have pictures I can check later. They stick these toilet frames in rubbish metal stud walls and they are solid. Taps offset to bath though, are you sure that will look good?

 

[GarethSouthpete]

Not really they are set high enough to avoid most water but they are fully waterproof and the tiling on the base should allow a run off.

Won't the corners end up yellow/mouldy over time?

 

[dlockers]

I maybe have pictures I can check later. They stick these toilet frames in rubbish metal stud walls and they are solid. Taps offset to bath though, are you sure that will look good?

The main thing I'm trying to achieve with the stud wall is the niche. So I can either....

Remove plaster
Insulate
Stud out

Or

Remove plaster
Stud
Insulate

Option 1 means I'll lose 30mm or w/e before I've gained any depth for niche. Option 2 means the plumbing will be between the insulation and the cold wall.

Maybe I'm overthinking it - I'd just remove/cut into insulation to regain depth on option 1. The batons would be cold bridges but probs not the end of the world/better than naff all.

Pics would be appreciated!

 

[200sols]

Won't the corners end up yellow/mouldy over time?

Corners should be siliconed which shouldn't mould. I actually found the biggest issue is one which uses glass mosaics, we have very hard water and it any spray leaves limescale residue.

 

[200sols]

The main thing I'm trying to achieve with the stud wall is the niche. So I can either....

Remove plaster
Insulate
Stud out

Or

Remove plaster
Stud
Insulate

Option 1 means I'll lose 30mm or w/e before I've gained any depth for niche. Option 2 means the plumbing will be between the insulation and the cold wall.

Maybe I'm overthinking it - I'd just remove/cut into insulation to regain depth on option 1. The batons would be cold bridges but probs not the end of the world/better than naff all.

Pics would be appreciated!

Thinking though, if you need to stud out 130mm for the frame then you have no reason to remove the plaster at all.

Insulate the wall, set timber studs infront of this (90mm cls will work). Space 2 studs so the frame sits between, strengthen with noggins. Marmox niche is 90mm deep iircz this leaves you loads of room for pipes, valves, taps etc.

 

[dlockers]

Thinking though, if you need to stud out 130mm for the frame then you have no reason to remove the plaster at all.

Insulate the wall, set timber studs infront of this (90mm cls will work). Space 2 studs so the frame sits between, strengthen with noggins. Marmox niche is 90mm deep iircz this leaves you loads of room for pipes, valves, taps etc.

Ah you mean board over what I have already in something like insulated plasterboard/tileboard/XPS, and then just stud out and clad that in tileboard?

To be fair the yellow layer may as well be PIR?

I could save a bit of depth by notching the insulation layer but then will get cold spots (no biggie if its behind a false wall?).

 

[Mercenary Keyboard Warrior]

You just triggered me to go and check my niches as they are up against an outside wall. (very thin layer of grip fill behind them connecting them to cavity wall)
They are colder than the normal wall that has plasterboard behind it, which itself is actually colder than the false wall the niches sit in.
Mine are self made osb niches with twin wall PVC over the top (she wanted sparkly walls!). Mine arent in a shower however, they are over a bath so much much lower risk of any water escaping via them compared to a shower.

They are not super cold though. I wouldn't worry unless you talking about having a lot of niche backing directly onto the plaster. You cuold of course also just chip the plaster off in that location and have the original plaster depth as an air gap. Or just some direct pir or similar behind the niches.

They are not cold though, just cooler.

 

[dlockers]

You just triggered me to go and check my niches as they are up against an outside wall. (very thin layer of grip fill behind them connecting them to cavity wall)
They are colder than the normal wall that has plasterboard behind it, which itself is actually colder than the false wall the niches sit in.
Mine are self made osb niches with twin wall PVC over the top (she wanted sparkly walls!). Mine arent in a shower however, they are over a bath so much much lower risk of any water escaping via them compared to a shower.

They are not super cold though. I wouldn't worry unless you talking about having a lot of niche backing directly onto the plaster. You cuold of course also just chip the plaster off in that location and have the original plaster depth as an air gap. Or just some direct pir or similar behind the niches.

They are not cold though, just cooler.

Haha, thank you sir......... I mean to be fair, I can probably afford the space - as the niches themselves are so useful for storage. And if I only board half the wall I get a shelf over the hidden toilet for plants etc.