1930s Semi Refurb - Part 1 of ... (Edition: Bathroom Relocation)

Thanks!

Just made me think about tail heater/radiator now.............. electric or plumbed? I have an option of a plinth heater too.

The reason I am edging away from a wet system is purely due to the fact the towels are wet often when the heating isn't on!

Regarding the towel radiator being electric or plumbed, do both. You can get electrical elements for towel radiators so they are still warmed during the summer as required. Search for towel radiator element.
 
Thanks!

Just made me think about tail heater/radiator now.............. electric or plumbed? I have an option of a plinth heater too.

You can get dual fuel elements for towel rails so you can use the electric element or normally fed by boiler. That's what I have.

Id recommend a stainless steel radiotor if you want to avoid rust, but then I hate gold sanitary ware/ironmongery..
 
I think the risk of that happening has totally put me off :cry:


So two follow up questions for everyone:

- ventilation - I want something overspecced I think. Because of the hip roof I'll need to vent out of the roof tiles. Is there any kits I can get? Will be engaging my famous plumbing duo to tackle this (the dad is a roofer/carpenter and they did my loft boiler).

- underfloor heating - the wet system isn't on enough to feel the benefit (heating rarely on), so are electric systems ok in a space this size? I could ask Alexa to boost it before a shower or put it on timer?
I wouldn't worry about siting the valve in the loft, there are probably hundreds of thousands of them up and down the country in a cold loft with no issues.

I had an Aqualisa one in my last house and never had a problem. Not sure what the Mira is like, maybe they are a bit more fussy with temps.

Id guess that any temp issues are down to poorly insulated pipes that connect to the valve. Come to think of it I've never had any pipes, tanks etc freeze in all the places I've lived.

Just noticed they do bath fillers
 
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Regarding the towel radiator being electric or plumbed, do both. You can get electrical elements for towel radiators so they are still warmed during the summer as required. Search for towel radiator element.
You can get dual fuel elements for towel rails so you can use the electric element or normally fed by boiler. That's what I have.

Id recommend a stainless steel radiotor if you want to avoid rust, but then I hate gold sanitary ware/ironmongery..
Mega, cheers chaps. Didn't realise they did dualies.

I'm not sure on the gold colour either; it puts you into a right rabbit hole on all the other fixtures/fittings too.

Just noticed they do bath fillers
Need a lottery win now lol.
 
Yeah you can do that. (picture here not that I am recommending this website :cry:).Any decent porcelain tile will be fine really, its your ability to cut them accurately that will be the issue around the drain. May need a good wetsaw etc.
Would you recommend a system like that? Any thoughts on where I can go to learn the process? I'll leverage @Buffman's thread regarding tanking...spankers...etc.

I think I'll start with..............

1. Remove plaster on walls that will be tiled
2. Strip wallpaper from walls that will be painted.
3. Strip paper from ceiling; tidy up what I can and paint.
4. Lift floor/assess
5. First fix plumbing
6. First fix wiring (remove sockets/extend the ring to the attic for the shower*/fused spur for the towel heater**)
7.

On * and ** (electrics) - I guess I run fused spurs with RCD rather than extend the ring?

At Step 7 - I guess I need to get my head around this tray/base situation for the shower. I presume I fit the base for the shower first and then board around it?
 
1) Yes, or mechanically over board with 6mm backer boards.
2) Yes.
3) Panel over with pvc boards instead.
4) Yes. Careful, they like to put pipes right on the floor.
5) easy
6) While its not an electric shower per se if this shower has power at the controls inside the wet area then it will be notifiable work.
7) Decide if going full wet room or not, length available for shower will determine, you may get away with just a side panel with return. Shower tray and floor will need to be at same height, wooden floor will need overboarding with e.g 4/6 6mm marmox depending on tray thickness.
 
1) Yes, or mechanically over board with 6mm backer boards.
2) Yes.
3) Panel over with pvc boards instead.
4) Yes. Careful, they like to put pipes right on the floor.
5) easy
6) While its not an electric shower per se if this shower has power at the controls inside the wet area then it will be notifiable work.
7) Decide if going full wet room or not, length available for shower will determine, you may get away with just a side panel with return. Shower tray and floor will need to be at same height, wooden floor will need overboarding with e.g 4/6 6mm marmox depending on tray thickness.
1) I know its only ~10mm but I don't think I can afford it! I was thinking insulated backer as its an external wall, too.

3) It's a hipped roof so has a bend in it. Not found something to convince me it won't look like a static caravan yet. That would solve a big headache though.... will research again, thanks.

6) I think the controls are CANBus/ethernet, the wire feeds up the shower head "holder" - so the fused spur just needs to be in the loft. I might break every rule and extend the ring into the attic, to give myself some sockets and a fused spur. :D

You can also get wireless controls.

7) I am thinking I just get something like this? Maybe not as a kit -

I was concerned I would need to tank a wider area, but I presume I can use a lesser level of waterproofing for the splash zone?
 
Normally you'd be looking at a 1400mm length minimum for a walk in shower to avoid tanking the entire room, then using a side panel with return. You can easily do the same as that link with your own boards and tray.

was concerned I would need to tank a wider area, but I presume I can use a lesser level of waterproofing for the splash zone?
It's a hipped roof so has a bend in it. Not found something to convince me it won't look like a static caravan yet. That would solve a big headache though.... will research again, thanks.
Avoid the wooden effect stuff it looks crap, the matt or gloss white is fine.
 
Mira one is pumped too from the a system tank - so those gubbins were in the (freezing) loft too,
least ways I don't think there was a new pumped feed, lower than shower head off the top of tank.
but if the pump were high up, it always seems it would have to suck up the water from tank - so don't really understand

Scaling/de-scaling maintenance is another concern have in the valves.
 
Normally you'd be looking at a 1400mm length minimum for a walk in shower to avoid tanking the entire room, then using a side panel with return. You can easily do the same as that link with your own boards and tray.



Avoid the wooden effect stuff it looks crap, the matt or gloss white is fine.
Thanks, sorry to keep bugging you (several pints waiting when you visit to get cracking) but what board/tanking gear do you recommend? I have no preferred supplier... I got my tile backer from TileExperience. They do these:

Also, where do you get your cladding from?
 
Re bath tap position
What is the other side of the bath wall?is it studding?
If so IF you ever had to repair/change the taps you could cut an access from the other side.Not ideal but possible
Getting to change the taps from under the bath would be near to impossible i reckon
Either way shut off valves or gate valves on all taps is my advice :)
 
Thanks, sorry to keep bugging you (several pints waiting when you visit to get cracking) but what board/tanking gear do you recommend? I have no preferred supplier... I got my tile backer from TileExperience. They do these:

Also, where do you get your cladding from?
I've used marmox and jackoboard and aquafix but they're all pretty much the same product (the boards that is).

40mm shower tray may present you issues, if you sit it on joists suitably braced then you'll need to raise the rest of the floor by about 20mm, when you add tiles and adhesive you will end up with a decent ~35mm step into the room.


For idea and bracing.

 
Brill thank you. @200sols the 35mm sounds a bit of a non-starter; is it practice to adjust the joists/reinforce them? Or use a thinner tray?

There is quite a thick carpet outside of the room so I have some flex....
 
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