When you say overtaking what do you mean? Presume typo OK!
Whats the group thoughts on ready mix mortar or using tile adhesive?
I recall reading a blend with more cement in is prefer IIRC
Advice for DIY install of bathroom and waterproofing walls - can I tile a dot and dabbed wall?
When you say overtaking what do you mean? Presume typo OK!
Whats the group thoughts on ready mix mortar or using tile adhesive?
I recall reading a blend with more cement in is prefer IIRC
Eh it was meant to be 'over think' I corrected it once as well, stupid autocorrect on phone
What I mean is, it is literally just a weak mix of sand and cement. Personally I would use just tile adhesive like that you are buying for dabbing the boards... this stuff about delamination of the tray is nonsense tbh.
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most plumbers i know will use powdered tile adhesive now, go back 10 years and it was silicone but i think they realized silicone doesn't work when the floors aren't level/flat.
went to tile a job last year and the tray moved when i stood on it, it lifted up really easily and found it had been packed up to level with ready mixed to about 12mm on one side, after 2 weeks it was still so soft it had just sunk when i stood on it. the young plumber got a bollocking from his boss so hopefully wont do that again.
went to tile a job last year and the tray moved when i stood on it, it lifted up really easily and found it had been packed up to level with ready mixed to about 12mm on one side, after 2 weeks it was still so soft it had just sunk when i stood on it. the young plumber got a bollocking from his boss so hopefully wont do that again.
Ready mixed mortar or tile adhesive?
Also tonight's progress. Combing on the adhesive was a bit messy. Shoild have taken up a dust sheet! (got other rooms downstairs being plastered.
Need to buy more tile adhesive locally tomorrow. Wondering if C1F is OK instead of C2f. E.g using this for the wall by the sink
https://www.toolstation.com/mapei-fast-set-wall-floor-tile-adhesive/p99206
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ready mixed tile adhesive, it really is **** stuff. only time i'll ever use it now is on small ceramic kitchen tiles.
not sure on the c1 or c2, the adhesive i use is marked either s1 or s2 on the bag depending on the job. this one is c2 https://www.toolstation.com/mapei-adesilex-p9-express-tile-adhesive/p77113
as that is a flexible one i'm guessing that the s1 and s2 will all meet the c2 standard due to the polymers added for flex also adding strength.
not sure on the c1 or c2, the adhesive i use is marked either s1 or s2 on the bag depending on the job. this one is c2 https://www.toolstation.com/mapei-adesilex-p9-express-tile-adhesive/p77113
as that is a flexible one i'm guessing that the s1 and s2 will all meet the c2 standard due to the polymers added for flex also adding strength.
Dot and dab with fixings ? The plastic ‘spankers’. I think if you do enough dot and Dabs the board flex won’t be an issue and you can set at the right depth.
Adding more cement board to fill out the 6mm to be level with rest of wall might not be the best idea but hard without seeing the issue.
Adding more cement board to fill out the 6mm to be level with rest of wall might not be the best idea but hard without seeing the issue.
Go for slow set adhesive. Fast is for trades who work fast and need the time. For DIY the pot will go off before you finish using it.
I notice the current boards are just trying on adhesive. Is this ok on a fully set according to manufacturer?
I notice the current boards are just trying on adhesive. Is this ok on a fully set according to manufacturer?
Dot n dab is for 12.5mm boards minimum as per the marmox guide already linked before, 6mm boards you can use a full comb of adhesive yes, mechanical fixing is not required with full bed either but doesn't hurt. Spankers are for dabs only.
Tilebacker suggest 6mm can be on walls with do LR and dab. Isn’t that what he’s using but has ran out of 10mm. I’d go for getting more 10mm to be honest. Especially if an external wall and he’s going to have to make up the rest of the gap
Aye i figured adding spankers to a fully combed wall isn't a bad idea /going to hurt?
Nah its an internal wall (the unfinished one in attached)
Dry fit of tray went fairly well (1400*800 stone tray 36kg), gonna take it up and prime floor for a second time another day, I'm knackered
Belt and braces.
The tray looks good, I would seriously consider using a classiseal.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Classi-Seal-Flexible-Waterproof-Upstand/dp/B0078MK2QA
Ah cool, yep the whole job become a bit belt and braces tbh!
I was instead going to use marmox waterproof tape which I've ordered but now come yet (shockingly expensive at £45 per 10m) plus the pre fabricated corners
Wondering wether I should just get the last wall dabbed on by my plasterer when he does the ceiling (got loads of boards downstairs as I had another 2 rooms knocked back to brick). It's not in a "wet" area other than near a toilet
. Could also just rob some plasterboard and dab it on myself. I would probably put a spanker in after regardless as its fairly easy to do.
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as you say its not in a wet area i would just dab on plasterboard and tile straight onto that.
those classiseals are worth using as well, just don't fit it to tight round the corners like some plumbers do
its very rare i use rapid set now unless its a small job i want to grout the same day. nearly always use semi rapid on floors, about 90 minutes pot life and set in 6 hours.
those classiseals are worth using as well, just don't fit it to tight round the corners like some plumbers do
its very rare i use rapid set now unless its a small job i want to grout the same day. nearly always use semi rapid on floors, about 90 minutes pot life and set in 6 hours.
Used that twice now, excellent stuff and really gives you confidence you wont have a leak later on.
The marmox tape and corners are not for these shower trays, they are for use with the marmox shower trays which are tiled over. The marmox tape you will still need for the walls though.
Hmm I'll double check but I presumed it would be suitable for this and a bath, by just edging up to the corner of the bath/shower and be concealed by the tiling (and silicone after)
No, it isn't the right product for this job.