Advice for DIY install of bathroom and waterproofing walls - can I tile a dot and dabbed wall?

The niche is in a nice position I think the comment is about whether you've allowed yourself any at all for the tile. You could end up with a tiny slither of tile versus an inch or two (i.e. not much more, but enough to make it not stand out).
Its got about 50mm, to the wall, so should be OK. You would literally only see it from the shower so not in a prominent area. Overall I'm OK with it after seeing some examples. The tray is 1400 / full width and the shower screen 900 so I didn't want to centre it and potentially get more water into the bathroom floor.

Im getting a tiler in so I'll see what they say re: niche.
I was going to try get nicer porcelain tiles rather than ceramic tiles I've previously had done.



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Examples
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Overall I appreciate the tiling on this pretty horrible
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Which of these best for dot and dab or completely combing adhesive into boards to fix to walls? I'm goinv to run out of the 2 bags of adhesive

Could I use ready mixed? Saves the dust and my lungs?

I'll be mechanically fixing to walls also
https://www.screwfix.com/p/mapei-rapid-set-wall-floor-adhesive-grey-20kg/29634

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mapei-ke...id-set-flexible-tile-adhesive-grey-20kg/7390v


The fact this is only linked to lightweight tiles puts me off
https://www.screwfix.com/p/mapei-buildfix-wall-tile-adhesive-off-white-15kg/5832c
 
Ready mix also relies on drying out. Which won’t be fast. Proper stuff is a chemical reaction.

get the cheap screwfix stuff for boards on wall. As you went 10mm though you might need to comb it on. But it’s likely u will find dot and dab easier. You will need the mechanical fixers too
 
The answer to the question is, surprisingly, no. Tile and grout is not totally waterproof and neither is cement board, backer board, sealers and cement adhesives, they absorb water but do not block penetration."

These marmox board and others like it are waterproof. The only weakness is the joins which are taped and sealed using the proper products, they are used extensively in wet room and are completely impermeable to water.

They are not cement boards.
 
This one.

Used it lots, it starts to set fast the pot time after mixing is only 20-30minutes so keep that in mind.

Ready mix is for small tiles only, certainly not for dabbing backer boards!
Cheers! Ordered.

Put on a couple spankers today as a test and the rest of the timber section ties, definetly not a job for 8.30pm :cry:
 
What's the preferred method to fix down shower bases?

My supplier (mira Flight tray) suggests sand/cement OR silicone sealant

For the sand /cement could i just use ready mix?

I also heard someone suggesting tile adhesive but believe it's frowned upon...


Also, presumably I would not need to prime chipboard floor before bedding in a shower tray with sand/cement? Fortunately the floor is fairly level.
 
I have that tray, I used silicone and it isn’t going anywhere put it that way.
It does seem odd to be fair to put mortar down, I'm not entirely sure of the purpose if it's a stone tray? It's not going to move anywhere and effectively going to be "locked" in all sides. I have exactly 1400mm opening between panels for a 1400 tray
 
You can use mortor to level it out or take up any unevenness if the surface is not flat or smooth. Silicone doesn’t stick to all finishes either.

If the surface isn’t flat, like there is a dip in the middle, you risk it bowing and cracking. Any flexing will also pull away your silicone seal between the tray and the wall finish.
 
It does seem odd to be fair to put mortar down, I'm not entirely sure of the purpose if it's a stone tray? It's not going to move anywhere and effectively going to be "locked" in all sides. I have exactly 1400mm opening between panels for a 1400 tray

To take up any unevenness in the floor. Don't overtaking this, if you use mortar absolutely prime the floor otherwise it won't stick.
 
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