Shower trays and baths are fitted before tiling.
Advice for DIY install of bathroom and waterproofing walls - can I tile a dot and dabbed wall?
Shower trays and baths are fitted before tiling.
Aye i was going to fit my waterproof boards before both though as I think you and I previously discussed.
Hopefully putting some boards on tomorrow. Put the niche in today (not aligned it as it will be "infront" of plasterboard.
Not entirely sure what the correct way is to fit the adjustable shelf on the schluter kerdi board shower niche either.
Realise I bought 10mm boards for walls but it claims "minimum" 12.5mm dot and dab. I'll just make sure its well secured.
Also I sharpened off the previous internal corner, as I hope this will make the tiling easier and neater. I also stuffed it with noise insulation as a bit of a belt and braces job.
Not entirely sure what the correct way is to fit the adjustable shelf on the schluter kerdi board shower niche either.
Realise I bought 10mm boards for walls but it claims "minimum" 12.5mm dot and dab. I'll just make sure its well secured.
Also I sharpened off the previous internal corner, as I hope this will make the tiling easier and neater. I also stuffed it with noise insulation as a bit of a belt and braces job.
Caporegime
Like those double niches.
How do you make sure the tiled surface is all level? Presumably you have to make sure it's proud of the plasterboard by the depth of the tile board?
How do you make sure the tiled surface is all level? Presumably you have to make sure it's proud of the plasterboard by the depth of the tile board?
Soldato
What do you mean the niche will be in front of the plasterboard? First photo looks flush. I'd have thought the thickness would be if you were relying on the plasterboard for support. Being attached to the frame would make that irrelevant.
Are you putting that wiring into a conduit?
Are you putting that wiring into a conduit?
Soldato
Ah IC. Is there any benefit to that over using aquaboard?
No, I don't believe it's necessary for the regulatory requirements. I also will know not to drill there. It'll be filled with sound insulation
Currently got the last piece of floor down, primed the walls and cut a couple boards.. Need to dot and dab them now..
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Caporegime
I meant that the niche would need to be proud of the plasterboard so that the tiled surface was all level once he'd boarded it with a waterproof wall. But I really don't know if that's how it's done with these pre-fab niches, vs. keeping the niche flush with the plasterboard then putting marmox / other over the niche so that the tiled surface is flat.
Re: niche, there is currently was 2 x layers of 12.5mm plasterboard. I multi tooled one of them out and then put 10mm marmox behind it as a "packer". The schluter board is 12.5mm and marmox board I bought is 10mm. I thought there was only 6 and 10mm available but I was looking at the "tile backer boards" rather than the multi board on the site
. It sys 12.5mm is the minimum to dot and dab but I'm just doing it with the 10mm regardless.
I wasn't entirely sure which side was meant to be the tiled side but hope I've got it correct... (easier to key into the ridged side as photod)
Where the shower is going I have a 1400mm gap at its smallest and the tray is 1400mm
... That will be interesting.
Not sure if below gap between orange and blue too big or if i can just fill with tile adhesive plus the waterproofing strip above?
Last night's efforts...need to get more timber in behind it for fixing to walls
I see that marmox says to use the multi bond between boards but I'm not sure if tile adhesive would be any better / more "waterproof" in the areas e.g. The shower I will be putting (expensive!) waterproof tape over all the joints anyways
I see that marmox says to use the multi bond between boards but I'm not sure if tile adhesive would be any better / more "waterproof" in the areas e.g. The shower I will be putting (expensive!) waterproof tape over all the joints anyways
Tile adhesive is not waterproof. I already said silicone or multibond between boards and then waterproof tape. (Mesh tape is only for non wet areas)
Why did you put the niche so close to the wall as well, a tiny slither of tile up there is going to look bad.
Why did you put the niche so close to the wall as well, a tiny slither of tile up there is going to look bad.
Aye ill go over them with multi bond and waterproof tape.
The niche is in my preferred position, I considered centering it with the tray but would rather have it tucked in. I saw a couple examples on pinterest against the wall and looked OK after someone else pointed it out.
Soldato
Is 'Waterproof' wall tile adhesive not waterproof? I guess it's just more water resistant.
I use a waterproof grout then a grout sealer to make sure none gets through.
The niche is in a nice position I think the comment is about whether you've allowed yourself any at all for the tile. You could end up with a tiny slither of tile versus an inch or two (i.e. not much more, but enough to make it not stand out).
Its not waterproof and neither is grout apart from epoxy grout.
I think a good way to think about it is the tile finish is just for show, it is the underneath that should be waterproof because over the years grout and sealers do fail and water has a way of finding its way in.
Caporegime
I would agree, as a solution though he could sacrifice some niche width and put some board on the left vertical to make more room for tile. Not ideal but...
Soldato
Grout is water resistant and in effect waterproof when in good condition in a bathroom/kitchen. The amount of water able to penetrate is absolutely negligable in these circumstances.
If you have a breach however then what you are doing is working out where you want that breach to lead to. If you fully waterproof the walls then its going to try to work downwards, an absorbent wall is likely to suck up the moisture. It will decay and break down, but is actually less likely to end up with damage to the adhesive and grout of the tiles than if the sit on a fully tanked wall.
The other odd thing is, none of the cement boards etc are neither. Again they are not targeted to be a water barrier.
"The answer to the question is, surprisingly, no. Tile and grout is not totally waterproof and neither is cement board, backer board, sealers and cement adhesives, they absorb water but do not block penetration."
https://www.tiling-courses.co.uk/is-tile-and-grout-waterproof/
As long as your grout is sound, and ideally sealed then you really shouldn't have any issues with water and that approach. The weak point is almost always at the end of tiling, silicon being most widely used now.
I personally always grout those gaps first and silicon over for the neat edge. Many trades will just silicon that, using the silicon to fill the gap and make it neat. If the silicon fails (when in reality) then you in effect have a gap for water to go straight through, where as if you have grouted it in you have a secondary defence against that water that as long as it is sound will in effect be waterproof.
The niche looks fine to me, they are around 35-40mm so hes probably going to have a 2.5-3cm tile strip there which isn't exactly tiny. Although depending on placement and how it lines up with the cuts it may be fun getting a good finish (ie if hes got to cut like a L shaped tile with most of the tile cut away and a long thin strip with full width across the other edge). I think he needs to carefully plan the cuts around that niche and make sure its not going to end up messy. Worst case is a grout line actually needing to be down the niche strip close to the wall!
If you have a breach however then what you are doing is working out where you want that breach to lead to. If you fully waterproof the walls then its going to try to work downwards, an absorbent wall is likely to suck up the moisture. It will decay and break down, but is actually less likely to end up with damage to the adhesive and grout of the tiles than if the sit on a fully tanked wall.
The other odd thing is, none of the cement boards etc are neither. Again they are not targeted to be a water barrier.
"The answer to the question is, surprisingly, no. Tile and grout is not totally waterproof and neither is cement board, backer board, sealers and cement adhesives, they absorb water but do not block penetration."
https://www.tiling-courses.co.uk/is-tile-and-grout-waterproof/
As long as your grout is sound, and ideally sealed then you really shouldn't have any issues with water and that approach. The weak point is almost always at the end of tiling, silicon being most widely used now.
I personally always grout those gaps first and silicon over for the neat edge. Many trades will just silicon that, using the silicon to fill the gap and make it neat. If the silicon fails (when in reality) then you in effect have a gap for water to go straight through, where as if you have grouted it in you have a secondary defence against that water that as long as it is sound will in effect be waterproof.
The niche looks fine to me, they are around 35-40mm so hes probably going to have a 2.5-3cm tile strip there which isn't exactly tiny. Although depending on placement and how it lines up with the cuts it may be fun getting a good finish (ie if hes got to cut like a L shaped tile with most of the tile cut away and a long thin strip with full width across the other edge). I think he needs to carefully plan the cuts around that niche and make sure its not going to end up messy. Worst case is a grout line actually needing to be down the niche strip close to the wall!