Advice for DIY install of bathroom and waterproofing walls - can I tile a dot and dabbed wall?

Yeah that makes sense. just need it solid between the floor and marmox, if the boards are screwed down then a thin set of adhesive should be enough assuming the floor is solid
 
Simon said:
Yeah that makes sense. just need it solid between the floor and marmox, if the boards are screwed down then a thin set of adhesive should be enough assuming the floor is solid
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aye I'll just screw it in with 20 or 25mm screws anyways to be sure. I need to not go beyond the boards + adhesive + chipboard as there is loads of pipes and cables through the bathroom!
 
You'll need washers to screw these boards down as well. The chipboard should also be screwed not nailed to the joists. Basically just ensure there is no flex in the chipboard floor before overlaying the marmox.
 
200sols said:
You'll need washers to screw these boards down as well. The chipboard should also be screwed not nailed to the joists. Basically just ensure there is no flex in the chipboard floor before overlaying the marmox.
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Aye the chipboard will be screwed down with these
https://www.screwfix.com/p/spax-wir...Dr2fosSX3Kkh0b27EMwaAo44EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

The marmox I will screw down with washers also, but thanks for the reminder. I bought a box of 100 of the metal ones (hopefully 100 enough!)
 
Why those double thread? Plain shank sure ware better to clamp the floor down? Don't really understand those.

I think cement boards are going to be better for the floor tbh.
 
Simon said:
Why those double thread? Plain shank sure ware better to clamp the floor down? Don't really understand those.

I think cement boards are going to be better for the floor tbh.
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I believe the flooring screws are good to stop squeeking in flooring. the chipboard I was going to glue and screw to the floor.

out of interest in what way do you think cement boards would be better?
 
you arent going to squeek when its all tiled

Try bending marmox and then try bending a tile board and youll have the answer. marmox isnt stable alone, it will dent if you kneel on it for example.

I think marmox will work but needs a solid adhesive base
 
Simon said:
you arent going to squeek when its all tiled

Try bending marmox and then try bending a tile board and youll have the answer. marmox isnt stable alone, it will dent if you kneel on it for example.

I think marmox will work but needs a solid adhesive base
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Fair enough! I was going to hardie backer it, but it wasnt available from this supplier so I thought might as well order it all in one. I ordered an 8mm tile trowel also so here's hoping it works OK once I adhesive & screw it down.
 
yeah should be fine if you do that. probably best to adhesive and loosly screw then final tighten once the adhesive has set, think thats the instructions anyway.
 
do people normally put waterproof boards (e.g. marmox / hardie backer etc) underneath the bath? presumably not as under the bath wont be tiled?

Realise I will need to also board the wall adajacent my toilet/ radiator as the plaster seems blown so presumably tilers wouldnt want to tile onto it.
 
Does chipboard flooring need noggins put in if it is layed perpendicular to joists? e.g. I intend to lay 18mm 2.4mlong sheets across 400mm centre joists? In some sections the joists are even closer together than 400mm centres. The 2.4m long sheets are 600mm wide and I'm reading differing opinions on wether you need noggins every 600mm. I will be gluiing and screwing the floor.

@200sols any thoughts? @Maccapacca

Currently the floor seems rather sturdy with standard floorboards (where they havent been ripped up by sparkies/plumbers) , thus I would anticipate that it'll be OK without noggins?

To be honest because the floor is so full of pipework and cables I probably wont even be able to fit noggins in.

The tiles will be layed on a decoupling membrane ontop of the 18mm floor. I wont need any joints on the 600mm end and only require 4 sheets


Edit: The below seems to suggest the butt joints should be on noggings (at perimeters!), thus I only need to apply to perimeters i.e. board 1 and board 4 on the long edges - I think I can work to apply in that fashion

https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/6-supe...d-concrete-upper-floors/6-4-19-floor-decking/
 
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We lay raised floors all the time, some developments are all raised floors with chipboard. The only extra in a bathroom is a waterproof board and then a marmox or cem board.

All the battens are at 600 or 400 centres. Use flexible adhesive grout and you should be dandy.
 
PS, this is the third room I've tiled - and while doing them I've developed my own technique that allows me to achieve a decent result.

I think tiling looks much better if the top row is a full tile and perfectly straight - however as an inexperienced DIYer, millimetre correct measuring isn't my strong point. So I start at the top. All it takes is a bit of patience, allowing each row 15 minutes to 'grab' before moving to the next one.

Tiling.jpg
 
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