Advice for DIY install of bathroom and waterproofing walls - can I tile a dot and dabbed wall?

Buffman said:
Do people tend to run water proof boards down to floor then have the shower tray installed up to these with tiles on top?
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Yes.

Buffman said:
Do people tend to put backer boards underneath the shower tray e.g. Hardie backer?
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No.

Buffman said:
Is fixing the shower tray down with tile adhesive best bet? Could use the same adhesive I dot and dab boards with?
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Yes and yes.

Buffman said:
Whats the best adhesive to dab the jackoboards to wall with?
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Any cement based powder adhesive (not plasterboard adhesive) I use ultra tile fix for most of my tiling as they are well priced good products. https://www.protilertools.co.uk/pro...x-sp-rapid-set-flexible-s1-adhesive-grey-20kg

Prime the walls and floor before dabbing/trowling. https://www.protilertools.co.uk/product/ultra-tile-fix-proprimer-advanced-polymer-primer

Use a class S2 adhesive to tile the floor, the previously linked adhesive is fine for the hardibackers though. https://www.protilertools.co.uk/pro...bre-reinforced-flexible-s2-adhesive-grey-20kg

I would use a classi seal on the shower tray, this adheres to the tray and crates a tileable lip which should ensure no water can leak, it is better than relying on silicone. I've got some pics of one I did.

1st, Boards down to the floor, all board edges fitted together with multibond, you can use silicone or CT1.
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2nd. Boards taped and you can see the classiseal (blue strip) on the shower tray
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Floor was overlayed with hardibacker shower tray before tiling.

Will you be tiling yourself?
 
@200sols thanks! I'm going to order from protilertools most likely so the links are great for me.


I like your Grohe " built in" toilet - very neat! Need to look for a sink and toilet unit to accomodate around 1700 wide at mine.

No I won't do the tiling myself, the intention is to do all the waterproofing substrate, floor etc and then find a good tiler. Bad idea?


My main thing was the previous bathroom I had fitted the overall tile finish wasn't great and I wanted to make sure it had a good finish, also I've already had the plumbing and electric works done by others (and the ceiling will be plastered) as part of an overall house renovation that's ongoing.
 
Another question, do you think I should tank all over the plastered walls? I was going to just tank the shower and bath walls initially

I realise i might need need to plastered around the radiator pipes adjacent toilet before they can be tiled (so there is a flat surface to tile to?)

- if I don't do the wall adjacent the bath I suppose that is a " weak point? Only concern is if I dot and dab 12.5mm boards that will be deeper than the unplastered portion for tiling thus will need to do the whole wall

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Buffman said:
Another question, do you think I should tank all over the plastered walls? I was going to just tank the shower and bath walls initially
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You only need to tank the wet areas and if using those tile boards you only need to tape them. Easy.

Are you sure you want a 1400mm long bath? Seems pointless.
 
Shower base should be on a mortar base. You don’t want adhesive as it can cause the base the delaminate due to it sticking to the base. If you use adhesive then put a plastic layer between the adhesive and the tray.
 
200sols said:
You only need to tank the wet areas and if using those tile boards you only need to tape them. Easy.

Are you sure you want a 1400mm long bath? Seems pointless.
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Ah cool, the tile adhesive is totally shagged above the sink which I'm currently taking out so might got up to that. Could i fit 6mm boards to the brick wallso that they align to the plastered wall? (the plaster is straight onto brick)

Also! Just found a massive plasterboard hole above the mirror was an air brick pre extension

The 1400 bath is just for if we have kids or the dog. I don't like baths and wouldn't have one if just for me, just thinking ahead.
 
200sols said:
Any cement based powder adhesive (not plasterboard adhesive) I use ultra tile fix for most of my tiling as they are well priced good products. https://www.protilertools.co.uk/pro...x-sp-rapid-set-flexible-s1-adhesive-grey-20kg

Prime the walls and floor before dabbing/trowling. https://www.protilertools.co.uk/product/ultra-tile-fix-proprimer-advanced-polymer-primer
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Cool gonna try order these ASAP would 2x20kg bags of the 1st be fine you think for applying hardibacker and jackoboard (I presume a tiler would get their own preferred adhesive)

Not sure if I should mechanically fix the boards also if the walls are slightly out, I guess that's a bit belt and braces /OTT?

Ive taken the plaster off the walls and found both an air vent and an old window :eek:

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Normally you put a 'spanker' through the dab into the brick. https://www.tilefixdirect.com/orbry-spanker-universal-insulation-expansion-fixing-anchors-dowels/

To get the walls straight use a long level, dab the boards and push them on and use the level to get them right. You use the dowels once the adhesive has set.

Can't tell if 2 bags are enough really, depends on the area. You also need a mixing paddle to mix this stuff up, you can get drill attachments which are fine.

This marmox guide has pics and explains the process. https://www.google.com/url?q=https:...oQFXoECAIQAg&usg=AOvVaw3CNwDVfstfo5GNK9rMvxGU
 
200sols said:
Normally you put a 'spanker' through the dab into the brick. https://www.tilefixdirect.com/orbry-spanker-universal-insulation-expansion-fixing-anchors-dowels/

To get the walls straight use a long level, dab the boards and push them on and use the level to get them right. You use the dowels once the adhesive has set.

Can't tell if 2 bags are enough really, depends on the area. You also need a mixing paddle to mix this stuff up, you can get drill attachments which are fine.
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Cool thanks for prompt response.

Yeah I have a 1.2m long spirit level. Do you think it matters much if the plaster on the wall to the left is very slightly out? Is it just that it makes tiling more difficult?

Aye I'll try work out the adhesives quantities. Yes I happen to have bought a mixing paddle many years ago and never used it (until now!)
 
Buffman said:
Cool thanks for prompt response.

Yeah I have a 1.2m long spirit level. Do you think it matters much if the plaster on the wall to the left is very slightly out? Is it just that it makes tiling more difficult?

Aye I'll try work out the adhesives quantities. Yes I happen to have bought a mixing paddle many years ago and never used it (until now!)
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A few mm out won't matter, no wall is ever completely level the tiler will just work that out with adhesive.
 
JRJ said:
These are good but really expensive, I made my own out of scrap timber and lined with backer board.
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Aye i just wanted to make sure its leak free so gone for this. Only gone for one as I worked out 2 would be a very tight fit with the current studwork.

@200sols I've now made my order, £700 nearly! Gone for marmox boards for both walls (10mm) and 6mm floors, as the jackoboard alternative was 2 to 3 weeks lead time to order.
For fitting to floor is it advisable to put it on adhesive and also screw it down? It seemed to indicate online only the latter is necessary?


Also got my chipboard floor delivered today. (drove 30mins and realised
 
Buffman said:
@200sols I've now made my order, £700 nearly! Gone for marmox boards for both walls (10mm) and 6mm floors, as the jackoboard alternative was 2 to 3 weeks lead time to order.
For fitting to floor is it advisable to put it on adhesive and also screw it down? It seemed to indicate online only the latter is necessary?
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6mm marmox? According to the guide you can use adhesive only. You need a floor trowel and I would say you must prime the chipboard well. I have always adhesive and screwed my hardibackers so I have no experience of using marmox on the floor.
 
Simon said:
The floor will need to be fully set onto the floor I would say from experience of using this stuff.
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forgive me, but when you say "fully set onto" do you mean both trowelled with adhesive plus screwed?

200sols said:
6mm marmox? According to the guide you can use adhesive only. You need a floor trowel and I would say you must prime the chipboard well. I have always adhesive and screwed my hardibackers so I have no experience of using marmox on the floor.
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Fair enough, as I'm paying a lot for materials I'd rather take time and make sure its done properly. On that basis I'll probably glue and screw it in.

Unfortunately my plumber to finish off a very small length of pipework has been a no show today!
 
I would go fully set only, no need to screw, not sure what screw will achieve as it wont provide a solid substrateunder the boards, they wont be very stiff either so any deflection will also flex the tiles. For reference i laid 30mm marmox fully set with adhesive only a concrete kitchen floor. getting the boards flat will make the tiling so much easier too.

Why do you need it on the floor? UFH
 
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