Soldato
Would try and get a HED Jet Disc personally. Heard a few stories of the aerocoach discs falling apart after not too many rides.
Aero/Gains Thread
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Would try and get a HED Jet Disc personally. Heard a few stories of the aerocoach discs falling apart after not too many rides.
Hmm alright. It’s for my Dad, he has got the bug... he did a 100 miler the weekend just gone and went under 4:30 which was 30+ minutes off his AG time.
He wants clincher & alloy rim so he doesn’t have to worry about gluing tyres or swapping brake pads. His Dolan has those integrated TRP brakes and changing pads is a bit of a nightmare.
I’d suggested the FFWD disc which Dolan sell & he’s had good service from them so far. I’ll have a read about the HED.
Soldato
My Aerocoach disc is still going strong after 2 seasons of use FWIW. It had a problem early on with the cover separating but they sorted it for me and no issues since. I believe they changed the adhesive they used on later runs.
The exact same thing happened on my Hed Jet 6+ (and I know I'm not the only one it's happened to) so don't necessarily assume a "bigger" brand gives better results.
Outside of the Aerocoach and Hed Jet discs, the Ron disc looks like excellent VFM. I've got one on the way for my wife's bike but looks very similar in specs and construction to the Aerocoach but is a fair bit cheaper. There is so little to choose between discs (Aerocoach's own testing showed ~1w between their disc and Hed's) that I reckon a big part of your gains are wide rims/tubeless tyres and the consequent rolling resistance improvement.
The exact same thing happened on my Hed Jet 6+ (and I know I'm not the only one it's happened to) so don't necessarily assume a "bigger" brand gives better results.
Outside of the Aerocoach and Hed Jet discs, the Ron disc looks like excellent VFM. I've got one on the way for my wife's bike but looks very similar in specs and construction to the Aerocoach but is a fair bit cheaper. There is so little to choose between discs (Aerocoach's own testing showed ~1w between their disc and Hed's) that I reckon a big part of your gains are wide rims/tubeless tyres and the consequent rolling resistance improvement.
Got some wedges for my bars, they are a bit of a bodge though, at higher angles you need to elongate the holes on the arm rests. I only planned to use 10 degrees so they aren’t too bad. If I had known this I’m not sure I’d have bought them though.
Unfortunately my alloy bars I had spare are a different diameter to standard. I only found out after taking the cables out of my bike and then had to recable it with the old cables!
Looks like I will have to get some USE 40s and run them reversed.
Unfortunately my alloy bars I had spare are a different diameter to standard. I only found out after taking the cables out of my bike and then had to recable it with the old cables!
Looks like I will have to get some USE 40s and run them reversed.
Got my wedges and my use 40s.
Installed them “normal” way around. Did 40km with a 10 degree wedge and it felt OK. Holding quite near the end of the bars and felt a little too angled.
I have gained a whole load of adjustment forward as the old carbon skis were cut short. The alloy USE have 360mm length, I don’t need that much but the others were cut to about 295, so I have the new ones at about 320 currently.
Swapped the wedges out and back to 0 degrees, back out and it immediately felt better, nice hold on the bars at the end and stable.
I also took 10mm off the risers, only 10mm in there now, my neck was a little sore, but difficult when riding with a road helmet and sunglasses to get a proper idea.
Installed them “normal” way around. Did 40km with a 10 degree wedge and it felt OK. Holding quite near the end of the bars and felt a little too angled.
I have gained a whole load of adjustment forward as the old carbon skis were cut short. The alloy USE have 360mm length, I don’t need that much but the others were cut to about 295, so I have the new ones at about 320 currently.
Swapped the wedges out and back to 0 degrees, back out and it immediately felt better, nice hold on the bars at the end and stable.
I also took 10mm off the risers, only 10mm in there now, my neck was a little sore, but difficult when riding with a road helmet and sunglasses to get a proper idea.
Not aero. But gainz.
I currently have rotor Q rings (which I don’t like the shifting of) 39/52 110bcd.
What efficiency gain would I see from going to a larger ring, I think the biggest 110bcd is perhaps a 44/54T?
I’ve been finding the jumps in ratio get a little big at higher speed, and although I use a high cadence (100rpm average usually) I am close to the small gears, therefore was thinking of going back to regular round rings and bigger to have a straighter chainline.
I currently have rotor Q rings (which I don’t like the shifting of) 39/52 110bcd.
What efficiency gain would I see from going to a larger ring, I think the biggest 110bcd is perhaps a 44/54T?
I’ve been finding the jumps in ratio get a little big at higher speed, and although I use a high cadence (100rpm average usually) I am close to the small gears, therefore was thinking of going back to regular round rings and bigger to have a straighter chainline.
@Berger - I went from 53/39 Q Rings to a 54 round Fiberlyte single. I'll never be going back!
I really did not get on with the Q's on the TT bike.
54 from 52 you are barely going to tell. It's not an extreme jump like it appears. You'll notice more from going Q to round if anything but do think if you need to keep a small ring then 54/44 would be a very good shout. Aerocoach have a big/little TT specific setup now but I think they might be oval slightly and not round.
Going to a 54 should see you a cog easier on whatever cassette you run on sticky bits. So should result in a better chainline. Have a play with ratio calculator as not sure what you run cassette wise and see what it works out as.
I really did not get on with the Q's on the TT bike.
54 from 52 you are barely going to tell. It's not an extreme jump like it appears. You'll notice more from going Q to round if anything but do think if you need to keep a small ring then 54/44 would be a very good shout. Aerocoach have a big/little TT specific setup now but I think they might be oval slightly and not round.
Going to a 54 should see you a cog easier on whatever cassette you run on sticky bits. So should result in a better chainline. Have a play with ratio calculator as not sure what you run cassette wise and see what it works out as.
Soldato
I put a 54t single on my road bike for TTs, chain line is probably a bit too far to the smaller end of the cassette at 30mph or so. Could do with a 56t probably. Nowhere near as intimidating as it sounds. Left my 54 on for a flatish road race and was fine as well. Only the really steep hills become a bit of a grind
Looking on the Rotor catalogue they do up to 55/44 in 110bcd aero.
I’d rather go with those than the carbon rings. Also prefer to keep little ring as I ride out/back to race and it doesn’t limit me to only flat courses then.
Anyway, not spending £200 on new rings and chain at the end of season. Something to work on for next year!
I’d rather go with those than the carbon rings. Also prefer to keep little ring as I ride out/back to race and it doesn’t limit me to only flat courses then.
Anyway, not spending £200 on new rings and chain at the end of season. Something to work on for next year!
Been a while since anyone posted in here, probably the complete lack of action last year.
I had some reservations with my position, but was struggling to really come up with anything better so today had an Aero fit at our local bike fit place who I've used before. Few small changes made but unfortunately some of the key bolts I've mulleted being a ham fisted idiot and couldn't get them undone so I'm going to head back once tt season is underway and I've got the bolts sorted in my own time.
I'm using the mantis position and had hands on top of each other, main changes made today were the moving back of my cleats which will be accompanied by a small saddle drop once I sort the bolt and then a move forward of the Aero skis and spreading them apart so my hands hold them in a more conventional hand on each bar. I instantly felt more comfortable in the upper arm and wrist with my head visibly lower and back flatter. although only minor changes made my cda went down from 0.248 to 0.235 and an estimated 1min 12 second saving over 25 miles.
Got some Aerolab arm rests to go on too once I sort one of the arm rest bolts. Guy fitting obviously wanted to do more and try lifting the cockpit up but with the stupid integration, nothing is quick to change. Will head back in a few months and hopefully see some further improvements. Will dig out some photos tomorrow for comparison..
I had some reservations with my position, but was struggling to really come up with anything better so today had an Aero fit at our local bike fit place who I've used before. Few small changes made but unfortunately some of the key bolts I've mulleted being a ham fisted idiot and couldn't get them undone so I'm going to head back once tt season is underway and I've got the bolts sorted in my own time.
I'm using the mantis position and had hands on top of each other, main changes made today were the moving back of my cleats which will be accompanied by a small saddle drop once I sort the bolt and then a move forward of the Aero skis and spreading them apart so my hands hold them in a more conventional hand on each bar. I instantly felt more comfortable in the upper arm and wrist with my head visibly lower and back flatter. although only minor changes made my cda went down from 0.248 to 0.235 and an estimated 1min 12 second saving over 25 miles.
Got some Aerolab arm rests to go on too once I sort one of the arm rest bolts. Guy fitting obviously wanted to do more and try lifting the cockpit up but with the stupid integration, nothing is quick to change. Will head back in a few months and hopefully see some further improvements. Will dig out some photos tomorrow for comparison..
I dropped all my saddles and felt better for it!
I am yet to sit on the TT bike this year though... I was going to set it up on the turbo and get some practice in, the first club event is next week. I’ll see if someone takes some photos and what I look like with the saddle change before I start messing too much, I went sub 21 several times so it’s not too bad. I’m more of a flat back old school setup, couldn’t get used to mantis.
I moved from the 52/38 Q rings with a rotor inpower I was using back to 53/39 round on a Quarq last spring but never used it outside. I already had the rings (or I’d have gone 55-42)and the shifting will improve. I may or may not notice the 1 extra tooth up front, I run an 11-23 out back.
Other changes would be a waxed Dura Ace chain with MSW. Worth a second or two perhaps!
I am yet to sit on the TT bike this year though... I was going to set it up on the turbo and get some practice in, the first club event is next week. I’ll see if someone takes some photos and what I look like with the saddle change before I start messing too much, I went sub 21 several times so it’s not too bad. I’m more of a flat back old school setup, couldn’t get used to mantis.
I moved from the 52/38 Q rings with a rotor inpower I was using back to 53/39 round on a Quarq last spring but never used it outside. I already had the rings (or I’d have gone 55-42)and the shifting will improve. I may or may not notice the 1 extra tooth up front, I run an 11-23 out back.
Other changes would be a waxed Dura Ace chain with MSW. Worth a second or two perhaps!
Got the TT on the turbo to check it all works. I changed the battery on the Quarq so not sure if it needs 2-3 rides for the calibration to settle or if it remembers/matches. Saddle drop feels good, moved my extensions out more which felt comfortable too.
It still feels like I’m pinching a nerve in my elbow, but my pads are more on my forearm, perhaps it is how the arm twists, but it doesn’t feel uncomfortable at the time. Perhaps a different arm cup would stop this.
It seems more isolated to the turbo than the road due to the fixed position. I might bring the pads up 5mm (one spacer) but see how it rides first and if I have issues on the road.
It still feels like I’m pinching a nerve in my elbow, but my pads are more on my forearm, perhaps it is how the arm twists, but it doesn’t feel uncomfortable at the time. Perhaps a different arm cup would stop this.
It seems more isolated to the turbo than the road due to the fixed position. I might bring the pads up 5mm (one spacer) but see how it rides first and if I have issues on the road.
Soldato
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- 19 Oct 2010
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I rode my TT bike on the road for the 1st time in about 7 months yesterday. After a winter toiling away on a road bike you forget how fast a TT bike can be. I've got a hilly 20k TT next sunday. A field of 60 riders.
Well that used a few muscles I haven’t in a long time.. it wasn’t terrible but it wasn’t amazing either.
I think I wiggled around an extra 250m in total trying to hold the power but just not able to hold perfect position/used to riding the bike!
I think I wiggled around an extra 250m in total trying to hold the power but just not able to hold perfect position/used to riding the bike!
Same here, my changes certainly feel faster on a cold and very slow night but I pbed compared to a few years ago and on literally my first ride in the tt bike. It hurt and can make a few changes for comfort but great to be back out there.
Using bike calc I was surprised how much difference temperature makes.
My best times are 20:40-20:50 which I’ve ridden 2-3 times in 2019.
I rode 302w on Thursday, but I’ve never done more than 310w average so being nearly 2 minutes down is a lot (say 10 seconds for a push off and 15 for a car still leaves a lot of time on the table).
Need to work on core strength and holding my head up, as sore shoulders and neck still today. I am one of those people who rides into fitness, rather than doing gym/home exercises.
I’ve lowered my arm pads 10mm this weekend, which is about what I dropped my saddle by last week when I was setting the bike up on the turbo. My position should be pretty similar to how it was then. Using solid as a sounding board, I’m aiming for a flat stomach, my main issue is my head sticks up a country mile compared to the rest of me.
My best times are 20:40-20:50 which I’ve ridden 2-3 times in 2019.
I rode 302w on Thursday, but I’ve never done more than 310w average so being nearly 2 minutes down is a lot (say 10 seconds for a push off and 15 for a car still leaves a lot of time on the table).
Need to work on core strength and holding my head up, as sore shoulders and neck still today. I am one of those people who rides into fitness, rather than doing gym/home exercises.
I’ve lowered my arm pads 10mm this weekend, which is about what I dropped my saddle by last week when I was setting the bike up on the turbo. My position should be pretty similar to how it was then. Using solid as a sounding board, I’m aiming for a flat stomach, my main issue is my head sticks up a country mile compared to the rest of me.
Soldato
Low air pressure is great but temperature does make the biggest difference.
What a difference a week makes.
My whole body was fatigued until Monday from last weeks effort, sore shoulders and neck, plus empty legs.
I felt good Tuesday doing hill reps but didn’t over do it, no sticking an extra one in!
Similar weather conditions, 3-4c warmer. Felt so much more comfortable already on the bike.
Went out pushing reasonably hard, straight over the first roundabout which is a winner, no traffic.
Got to half way in and realised I’d overcooked myself. I was on about 320w average by halfway, and had to knock the power back to 290-300w, I couldn’t quite push the gear I had been doing on the first “loop”, and the gear I was in was a touch too easy and I was spinning it more than I’d like, but the next one just not quite enough strength in my legs. HR was through the roof now, I didn’t need to look to tell me that, combination of effort & high cadence.
Keep it going and be sure to avoid total implosion. Trimmed nearly a minute off my time, say 15 seconds for the roundabout, but then 45 seconds from a more aerodynamic position.
I caught my minute man about halfway, but then only pulled another 30 seconds gap out by the finish, so if I’d managed to keep riding 320w I’d estimate another 30 seconds could come off my time.
My whole body was fatigued until Monday from last weeks effort, sore shoulders and neck, plus empty legs.
I felt good Tuesday doing hill reps but didn’t over do it, no sticking an extra one in!
Similar weather conditions, 3-4c warmer. Felt so much more comfortable already on the bike.
Went out pushing reasonably hard, straight over the first roundabout which is a winner, no traffic.
Got to half way in and realised I’d overcooked myself. I was on about 320w average by halfway, and had to knock the power back to 290-300w, I couldn’t quite push the gear I had been doing on the first “loop”, and the gear I was in was a touch too easy and I was spinning it more than I’d like, but the next one just not quite enough strength in my legs. HR was through the roof now, I didn’t need to look to tell me that, combination of effort & high cadence.
Keep it going and be sure to avoid total implosion. Trimmed nearly a minute off my time, say 15 seconds for the roundabout, but then 45 seconds from a more aerodynamic position.
I caught my minute man about halfway, but then only pulled another 30 seconds gap out by the finish, so if I’d managed to keep riding 320w I’d estimate another 30 seconds could come off my time.