Airfix

At last I've got the first paint laid down on the typhoon, now starts the correction and weathering prior to the invasion stripes going on.




 
@ pieman109,

What no pre-shading? Is it not something you normally do then?

Did you not consider doing the invasion stripes prior to camo the masking off? Or is there a scale issue.

just wondering. :D
 
@ pieman109,

What no pre-shading? Is it not something you normally do then?

Did you not consider doing the invasion stripes prior to camo the masking off? Or is there a scale issue.

just wondering. :D

Well I used to do pre shading but I tend to totally obliterate it when I do the "post" shading. I find I get a much better weathered look by post shading with about two or three shades of the base colors, then a going over with pigment powders. After all that lot, believe me, theres no pre shading to be seen, lol.

Wrt the invasion stripes, I'm thinking about spraying the white, but doing the black stripes by hand to simulate how they were done in the field. I'm gonna do them afterwards as I reckon, due to the scale, the human eye can "see" that they've been sprayed before the camo, so I'll do 'em afterwards.
 
Robby, the Robot, coming together nicely!

15052788997_91b2af107e_z.jpg
 
Hi,

Next on the bench is Airfix's fantastic little 1/72 Vampire T11.

I want to try 2 new things and this kit fitted the bill.

1. Black Gloss coating.
2. A metal finish using Mr metal color.

Eda45cyRuWY7hKT9_7uEQRDahtT1jT_FUIFKEYGoW_Q=w737-h553-no
 
I wouldn't worry too much about getting a natural metal finish on a vampire. They were actually painted in 'high speed silver' as most if the airframe is made of wood! Still a good test, just use a silver rather than aluminium Mr color paint.
 
Making some good progress now, I got the main decals applied and I can confirm that they're really nice to use and settle down onto the paintwork really well showing all the detail thats underneath 'em a treat.






 
You don't have to use black but the undercoat is critical to how alcad paints come out. They are not paints as such, think of them more as a metallic clear coat. Any imperfections or blemishes will be picked up and magnified. If you want a highly reflective finish then you need a high gloss black base coat.

Below us a 1/72 mustang I painted using alcad polished aluminium. By using a mid grey base coat I was able to create a lighter , more weathered effect. PA on black base looks too dark in this scale

ARL014-Reflection_web_zps9ba64520.jpg

That is sickeningly good. :cool:
 
Have you used the Tamiya spray yet?

Yes.

Some photos below.

Tamiya's Grey Primer.
IMG_20140914_184851.jpg


Kura Grey

IMG_20140915_193102.jpg


Hull Red

IMG_20140915_193322.jpg

They are really good, does the job but the cans are 100ml so they tiny and in my eyes overpriced, but not as overpriced as Games Workshop cans but in the end what choice do we have. :rolleyes:
 
Your first order has a discount already applied to it and if you visit their facebook page and scroll down to their 18/09/14 post, you will find a other discount code to use.
Thank you very much.

Can you suggest what primer to buy? Normal or fine? Im looking at Tamiya.
I bought an inexpensive and easy model to build and to paint to begin with, Tamiya 35065 Panther.

But I do have big plans for later :D
 
Thank you very much.

Can you suggest what primer to buy? Normal or fine? Im looking at Tamiya.
I bought an inexpensive and easy model to build and to paint to begin with, Tamiya 35065 Panther.

But I do have big plans for later :D

Ah, I don't know. I'm in the same boat as you as am new to Tamya sprays. Since am building Japanese ships, I went ahead with Tamiya Grey Surface Primer.

But if you building something different then it be different for you I guess.
 
No worries. I think I will get the fine one.
Bummer, wanted inexpensive model so I would not worry much if I mess it up painting it, and just realised that Panther I ordered (Tamiya 35065) is very old and inaccurate kit...
 
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