1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

AMG out, GT-R in!

Discussion in 'Motors' started by Six6siX, Nov 22, 2018.

  1. mjt

    Capodecina

    Joined: Aug 31, 2007

    Posts: 17,579

    UWOTM9

    How many miles left on yours?

    On a serious note, given how long the ceramics last, I'd be interested in a cost per mile compared to normal ones. A bit like Michelins :p
     
  2. Housey

    Man of Honour

    Joined: Feb 21, 2006

    Posts: 26,555

    Discs will see 80K I suspect, pads were done at 25K
     
  3. kindai

    Soldato

    Joined: Aug 9, 2013

    Posts: 6,271

    Location: Bromsgrove

  4. Housey

    Man of Honour

    Joined: Feb 21, 2006

    Posts: 26,555

    It will be long gone before it needs discs. Someone else's worry but would have been good if I could find cheap options just in case plans change.
     
  5. Gibbo

    Commissario

    Joined: Oct 17, 2002

    Posts: 30,604

    Location: OcUK HQ

    Its not the car, its because they are ceramics.

    A ceramic disc is typically £1500-£3000 each.

    I converted my 911 to steel disc all round for £600 !
    A pair of new front ceramics would of cost me £6000 just for a pair, luckily a kind chap had some removed ceramics and he sold me front pair for £2500, still vastly more expensive than steels.

    My SVR a set of 1PC solid disc all round cost about £600, a set of steel/ALU 2PC motorsport disc cost around £1800 all round. A set of ceramics all round cost £12,000

    Audi R8 steel disc are like a grand for a full set.

    The moment you go to ceramics, the cost is typically 5x-10x more for disc and generally at least double the cost for the pads.
    The biggest advantage is no dust, they tend to also be quieter and smoother. They also last vastly longer.
     
  6. Housey

    Man of Honour

    Joined: Feb 21, 2006

    Posts: 26,555

    ...and don't fade, but the heat they generate on track does have a habit of cooking the standard fluid.
     
  7. Six6siX

    Mobster

    Joined: Nov 25, 2004

    Posts: 4,722

    Location: Hertfordshire

    Thought I'd post a bit of an update on ownership so far.

    Perhaps being a bit over-cautious running at stage 4.25, I decided that I didn't want to risk throwing a rod through my block. I know many people do run this power level and even more without any issues but many don't and if it goes, it's new engine time. Given the mileage on my car (60k), I decided to get reduce the risk and got myself booked into Litchfield for a few upgrades ;)

    The main work to be done was to get the engine out and stripped, rebuild with forged rods, new bearings, gaskets and a bunch of other nice things. Controversially perhaps, I opted to not get the pistons changed for forged ones as this involved a lot more machine work (and cost), though I did have new piston rings on the OEM pistons. Not being interested in running 'big' power on this car and wanting the reliability overall, I didn't think it would have been worth it as I'd never see the benefit. Not to mention the other costs in involved in upgrading the gearbox etc to take advantage of the engine's capability had I gone down that route.

    At the same time, I upgraded the turbos for some with GT30 cores and billet compressors to get to a comfortable power level and had all other drivetrain fluids changed.

    Once the engine had been taken out and stripped, it was found that the timing chain had stretched and the tensioner was at max. extension. Luckily this was caught in time so had all chains replaced with the tensioner. Everything else internally seemed to be in very good condition, so I was quite pleased overall.


    A few pics:

    Shortblock stripped and cleaned
    [​IMG]

    Engine fully rebuilt and assembled. Added black powder coated covers all round
    [​IMG]

    Nice little touch
    [​IMG]

    Refitted and all cleaned up
    [​IMG]

    Dyno Print Out
    [​IMG]

    Bonus Car Shot
    [​IMG]

    Overall, the car drives very similar to how it did before - comes on power around the same sort of time with the same sort of torque level. It just holds it consistently right up to the red line rather than dropping off like it did before. The new turbos are barely breaking a sweat at 1.2-1.3bar boost - they needed to be dialled back in a bit as the first few runs were touching high 800's :o

    Eventually, I plan to do a bit of basic work to the gearbox to allow the torque to get pushed up a bit more across the whole range and maybe get a bit more power wise to go with but not a lot. For now, I think I'll enjoy it a bit without worrying!
     
  8. ReAPeR101

    Hitman

    Joined: Dec 10, 2010

    Posts: 685

    Location: Essex

    That's awesome.

    I take it you are in the GTR Cartel ;) I think I have seen this dyno sheet posted up.

    I'm looking to do exactly the same towards October in mine. Just the forged rods etc currently I'm running 4.25 with the LM SSIC. Made 682/613 @ Litchfield on their dyno.

    I also did an enquiry to Litchfield regarding the costs fir just forged rods. Which I was quoted circa 5800 inclusive of VAT. but obviously timing chain, tensioners to be looked at.

    Did you supply your own turbos for them to fit? What turbos are they exactly ??

    I have looked at the linney turbos for mine as ideally I want to run around 750ish hp. Keeping the stockish spool but not going to crazy on horsepower.
     
  9. Six6siX

    Mobster

    Joined: Nov 25, 2004

    Posts: 4,722

    Location: Hertfordshire

    Yup am in the group thanks to @kindai :) So yep you would’ve seen this posted up!

    That price sounds about right - depending on the state of the internals the extras could be more. From memory I think the chains and tensioners were about another 500ish on mine. Plus any other extras you want doing while it’s all out obviously.

    I supplied the turbos - they are GT30 turbines in IHI housings with Litchfield 67mm billet compressors. They were the older LM800s before the switch to EFR cores I believe. Linney ones seem to get good things said about them.

    I have the race IC and ran very similar figures at 4.25 so basically going down the same route! :D
     
  10. ReAPeR101

    Hitman

    Joined: Dec 10, 2010

    Posts: 685

    Location: Essex

    Thankyou for the information :)

    Virtually the same route yes.

    I just love my GTR.

    I was contemplating going stage 4.5 which should give around 740ish BHP with the intercooler, then do the rods, but then its a ticking time bomb @ stage 4.5 :rolleyes::rolleyes:

    but may just do the lot all at once :D
     
  11. Six6siX

    Mobster

    Joined: Nov 25, 2004

    Posts: 4,722

    Location: Hertfordshire

    Well, if you're changing turbos to get to Stage 4.5, the engine has to come out anyway so I'd just do the whole lot in one go and avoid paying extra the labour costs for dropping the engine, removing and refitting the turbos and associated bits twice :cool:
     
  12. Rilot

    Don

    Joined: Oct 18, 2002

    Posts: 19,420

    Location: Wargrave, UK

    I think our definition of big power differs somewhat.
     
  13. Six6siX

    Mobster

    Joined: Nov 25, 2004

    Posts: 4,722

    Location: Hertfordshire

    :D

    Well, relative to the modified GT-R community...