Soldato
Amazing work.
Anglia Project
- Thread starter Confused
- Start date
Soldato
- Joined
- 29 Jun 2004
- Posts
- 12,957
It's going to be mental. 
Associate
- Joined
- 25 Jun 2005
- Posts
- 1,092
Soldato
Bit of a sleeper. Anyone know what the power to weight ratio will roughly be?
Soldato
I agree.
Usually I like these sorts of projects but this one has so much bodgery and excess (in a bad way) that it just looks like it'll be undriveable and not as structurally sound as the original car (which wasn't exactly strong anyway).
Each to their own I guess but this isn't for me at all.
Someone else has done a 200SX engined Anglia, and I think that the 6A13 engine is a great engine, and it's more of a challenge, especially with there being no off-the-shelf gearbox options etc.
I'm also not going to be driving it like a complete mentalist the vast majority of the time - I've got a Legnum that I can throw about enough. This is going to be more of a show/cruising car. So as long as it will drive in a straight line and be no worse round corners at a suitable speed than a standard Anglia I'll be happy. I won't be racing it or be needing it to be the best handling car ever.
As for power to weight... I'm estimating that the weight will be around the 1000kg mark, and the engine in it's standard form is around 280bhp.
I'm trying to keep the exterior looking mostly standard, and therefore with subtle touches such as the twin exhausts as a very small clue as to the changes made to the car.
I'm not worried about someone turning round and saying "I don't like it" - there's some other cars/projects on here and other places that I don't like, but the most important thing is that the person that's doing it is happy with it. And I'm happy with mine.
I'm also not going to be driving it like a complete mentalist the vast majority of the time - I've got a Legnum that I can throw about enough. This is going to be more of a show/cruising car. So as long as it will drive in a straight line and be no worse round corners at a suitable speed than a standard Anglia I'll be happy. I won't be racing it or be needing it to be the best handling car ever.
As for power to weight... I'm estimating that the weight will be around the 1000kg mark, and the engine in it's standard form is around 280bhp.
I'm trying to keep the exterior looking mostly standard, and therefore with subtle touches such as the twin exhausts as a very small clue as to the changes made to the car.
I'm not worried about someone turning round and saying "I don't like it" - there's some other cars/projects on here and other places that I don't like, but the most important thing is that the person that's doing it is happy with it. And I'm happy with mine.
Soldato
Hard to please around here.
Keep up the good work and keep posting up.
Keep up the good work and keep posting up.
That's the important thing, if you didn't like it I'm sure it'd be sitting in the garage and you'd be doing something else right now.
Soldato
Will you be keeping or selling the car? It's going to be a right cracker to drive haha 
Associate
Thanks for the update, some interesting approaches here to problems etc.
I look forward to the finished product
I look forward to the finished product
Soldato
I like how you have put some flex in the exhaust which assume the engine can move, cos looking at the turbos its not gonna move much once they hit the bodywork
Soldato
Subbed, looks amazing!!!
In my excitement to post up the video last time, I didn't get round to adding some additional photos that were taken. So... here they are!
I start this update again with another photo of the engine and gearbox out of the car - this time to finish welding up the exhause downpipes where we couldn't get to them whilst it was in the car. We also took the opportunity to begin tidying up and re-routing some of the cabling from the engine, as our work last year to route it all through the existing heater hole was beginning to look a little too untidy for my liking.
The engine and gearbox went back into the car, and we put the remaining engine wiring back on, and continued to re-route and tidy, and in the process put all of the engine wiring into waterproof plugs, so that it's easy to disconnect from the rest of the car.
Once that was done, the engine bay is looking a lot neater without all that wiring on show.
Then onto the daunting task... sorting out the rest of the wiring. We had already removed quite a lot of unneeded wiring last year by removing everything attached to the automatic gearbox ECU, but it still left a large amount, so it was time to try to plug it all together, and work out what went where in the original Galant, so we can begin cutting unneeded bits out.
Now... what goes where again?
Once everything had been laid out and identified, we began to cut out the unneeded bits - AYC wiring, Active Stability Control wiring, ABS wiring, rear doors, heated rear screen, stereo wiring... To do this, we removed all the existing spiral wrap and insulation tape, and began at the endpoints of these systems, separating the wiring into "wanted" and "not wanted". The "not wanted" bits were chopped out when we reached a connector plug, and then chased from the other side of the plug and removed.
There's probably still more to come out, but we'd identified a large amount to remove, and we were confident that what we had was sufficient to get to the final end goal of the weekend - which was to start the car! You've seen the results of that already!
On a visit to the scrap yard, we spied a nice bit of aluminium pipe which looked like it might have been perfect for the inlet tract - so we quickly knocked together the remainder of the inlet. The straight bit off the Y-piece will be replaced with a water-to-air charge-cooler.
So... what was does the un-needed wiring look like...?
That doesn't even include any of the automatic transmission etc stuff we removed last year!
And finally... the final bit of original Anglia wiring to be removed, the front-rear loom:
I start this update again with another photo of the engine and gearbox out of the car - this time to finish welding up the exhause downpipes where we couldn't get to them whilst it was in the car. We also took the opportunity to begin tidying up and re-routing some of the cabling from the engine, as our work last year to route it all through the existing heater hole was beginning to look a little too untidy for my liking.
The engine and gearbox went back into the car, and we put the remaining engine wiring back on, and continued to re-route and tidy, and in the process put all of the engine wiring into waterproof plugs, so that it's easy to disconnect from the rest of the car.
Once that was done, the engine bay is looking a lot neater without all that wiring on show.
Then onto the daunting task... sorting out the rest of the wiring. We had already removed quite a lot of unneeded wiring last year by removing everything attached to the automatic gearbox ECU, but it still left a large amount, so it was time to try to plug it all together, and work out what went where in the original Galant, so we can begin cutting unneeded bits out.
Now... what goes where again?
Once everything had been laid out and identified, we began to cut out the unneeded bits - AYC wiring, Active Stability Control wiring, ABS wiring, rear doors, heated rear screen, stereo wiring... To do this, we removed all the existing spiral wrap and insulation tape, and began at the endpoints of these systems, separating the wiring into "wanted" and "not wanted". The "not wanted" bits were chopped out when we reached a connector plug, and then chased from the other side of the plug and removed.
There's probably still more to come out, but we'd identified a large amount to remove, and we were confident that what we had was sufficient to get to the final end goal of the weekend - which was to start the car! You've seen the results of that already!
On a visit to the scrap yard, we spied a nice bit of aluminium pipe which looked like it might have been perfect for the inlet tract - so we quickly knocked together the remainder of the inlet. The straight bit off the Y-piece will be replaced with a water-to-air charge-cooler.
So... what was does the un-needed wiring look like...?
That doesn't even include any of the automatic transmission etc stuff we removed last year!
And finally... the final bit of original Anglia wiring to be removed, the front-rear loom:
After managing to get the engine up and running last time, we had a small issue - any touch of the throttle would cause the engine to stall.
We didn't run the engine much past what was shown in the previous video, as we had no way to cool the engine. So, we spent some time putting together a cooling system, which would allow us to run the engine for longer than a couple of minutes, and perform some troubleshooting.
With some pipework made from some large bore pipe, and a loop of pipe on the heater circuit, we hooked up an old Mini radiator we had sitting around, to be able to get some coolant into it.
We refilled the "petrol tank" with petrol, hooked up the battery again, and I hooked up my laptop to the engine ECU to run EvoScan, and to the MAP-ECU to run the MAP-CAL software.
Upon starting the car, we could see that the RPM within EvoScan was around 700rpm, but it was showing at just 200rpm in MAP-CAL. The MAP-ECU was previously attached to a 6A13TT engine, and in the configuration it had been set to "6 cylinder". The RPM wiring had obviously been on the signal to the tacho in the dash, rather than how we've now wired it - direct into the signal from the ECU to one of the coils. Changing the MAP-ECU configuration to "2 cylinder" then showed the correct RPM - and instantly we were able to rev the car properly.
The MAP-ECU "mimicks" the Kármán Vortex Frequency given out by the standard MAF by utilising RPM, manifold absolute pressure and intake air temperature - with the RPM incorrectly set, it wasn't moving out of the correct RPM/pressure cell and adjusting the VKF frequency output correctly - this was then not telling the standard ECU that the amount of air had changed (increased), so was not adjusting the fuelling correctly - hence the immediate stalling.
We didn't run the engine much past what was shown in the previous video, as we had no way to cool the engine. So, we spent some time putting together a cooling system, which would allow us to run the engine for longer than a couple of minutes, and perform some troubleshooting.
With some pipework made from some large bore pipe, and a loop of pipe on the heater circuit, we hooked up an old Mini radiator we had sitting around, to be able to get some coolant into it.
We refilled the "petrol tank" with petrol, hooked up the battery again, and I hooked up my laptop to the engine ECU to run EvoScan, and to the MAP-ECU to run the MAP-CAL software.
Upon starting the car, we could see that the RPM within EvoScan was around 700rpm, but it was showing at just 200rpm in MAP-CAL. The MAP-ECU was previously attached to a 6A13TT engine, and in the configuration it had been set to "6 cylinder". The RPM wiring had obviously been on the signal to the tacho in the dash, rather than how we've now wired it - direct into the signal from the ECU to one of the coils. Changing the MAP-ECU configuration to "2 cylinder" then showed the correct RPM - and instantly we were able to rev the car properly.
The MAP-ECU "mimicks" the Kármán Vortex Frequency given out by the standard MAF by utilising RPM, manifold absolute pressure and intake air temperature - with the RPM incorrectly set, it wasn't moving out of the correct RPM/pressure cell and adjusting the VKF frequency output correctly - this was then not telling the standard ECU that the amount of air had changed (increased), so was not adjusting the fuelling correctly - hence the immediate stalling.
Soldato
Sounds great
A little distorted on the video, just a nice roar in person The tiniest touches on the throttle and it's boosting - a pair of quick-spooling TD03 turbos and as near as damnit no inlet tract to speak of (it's about 1/3 the length and about 1/4 the capacity of the standard inlet tract on a VR-4)
The tiniest touches on the throttle and it's boosting - a pair of quick-spooling TD03 turbos and as near as damnit no inlet tract to speak of (it's about 1/3 the length and about 1/4 the capacity of the standard inlet tract on a VR-4)
Associate
- Joined
- 28 Feb 2007
- Posts
- 1,479
Really impressive work - keep at it
In ye old days, the amount of air/fuel in the engine was determined by the carburettor.
Modern cars measure how much air is coming into the engine in a number of ways, and the Engine Control Unit uses this value to determine how long to open the Injector to add the right amount of fuel.
The two ways of measuring how much air is going into the engine is by using a Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP).
The Mass Airflow Sensor originally used on the Mitsubishi Galant that the engine came from uses the phenomenon of a Kármán Vortex Street - the principle that air flowing around a blunt object comes back together in "pulses" to create vortices - the faster the air is flowing, the more vortices are created in a given time interval. (Other vehicles use different types of MAF, which measure the air in different ways)
This is where we get to the second method for detecting how much air is in the engine - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
This method uses a pressure sensor in the manifold, and the engine speed to calculate how much air is in the engine.
Each of these methods also make use of an Intake Air Temperature sensor (air is more dense when it's cold), and a barometric pressure sensor (air is thinner as you go higher) to calculate the amount of air more accurately.
On the original Galant, the MAF is placed very early in the inlet - immediately after the filter, and before the turbos. Given the space constraints of the Anglia compared to the Galant - there is not enough room to locate the filter and MAF and get the air pipework to each of the turbo inlets.
Therefore, some clever soul in New Zealand invented the MAP-ECU. This little magic box of tricks makes use of a MAP sensor and engine RPM, and will emulate the frequency output of the original MAF, so that the standard ECU is still getting the signal it expects.
It can either be programmed from scratch with the correct values, or it can be run in "auto-learn" mode, where you will run the vehicle for a while with the original MAF still connected, and the MAP-ECU will learn what the standard MAF is outputting for the various pressure/RPM cells.
The problem I had with the engine not revving was that the MAP-ECU was not correctly configured for how I had wired it up. The original owner of the MAP-ECU had the RPM signal connected to the wire which had the pulses from all 6 spark plugs (so to get the correct RPM, you divide the number of pulses received by 6) - I had wired it to the signal for just 2 spark plugs - so as the engine revs increased, the MAP-ECU was not moving into the correct cell, and was not telling the standard ECU that there was more air going into the engine. Once I told the MAP-ECU to divide the number of pulses it's seeing by 2, it was reading the correct RPM.
Modern cars measure how much air is coming into the engine in a number of ways, and the Engine Control Unit uses this value to determine how long to open the Injector to add the right amount of fuel.
The two ways of measuring how much air is going into the engine is by using a Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP).
The Mass Airflow Sensor originally used on the Mitsubishi Galant that the engine came from uses the phenomenon of a Kármán Vortex Street - the principle that air flowing around a blunt object comes back together in "pulses" to create vortices - the faster the air is flowing, the more vortices are created in a given time interval. (Other vehicles use different types of MAF, which measure the air in different ways)
This is where we get to the second method for detecting how much air is in the engine - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
This method uses a pressure sensor in the manifold, and the engine speed to calculate how much air is in the engine.
Each of these methods also make use of an Intake Air Temperature sensor (air is more dense when it's cold), and a barometric pressure sensor (air is thinner as you go higher) to calculate the amount of air more accurately.
On the original Galant, the MAF is placed very early in the inlet - immediately after the filter, and before the turbos. Given the space constraints of the Anglia compared to the Galant - there is not enough room to locate the filter and MAF and get the air pipework to each of the turbo inlets.
Therefore, some clever soul in New Zealand invented the MAP-ECU. This little magic box of tricks makes use of a MAP sensor and engine RPM, and will emulate the frequency output of the original MAF, so that the standard ECU is still getting the signal it expects.
It can either be programmed from scratch with the correct values, or it can be run in "auto-learn" mode, where you will run the vehicle for a while with the original MAF still connected, and the MAP-ECU will learn what the standard MAF is outputting for the various pressure/RPM cells.
The problem I had with the engine not revving was that the MAP-ECU was not correctly configured for how I had wired it up. The original owner of the MAP-ECU had the RPM signal connected to the wire which had the pulses from all 6 spark plugs (so to get the correct RPM, you divide the number of pulses received by 6) - I had wired it to the signal for just 2 spark plugs - so as the engine revs increased, the MAP-ECU was not moving into the correct cell, and was not telling the standard ECU that there was more air going into the engine. Once I told the MAP-ECU to divide the number of pulses it's seeing by 2, it was reading the correct RPM.