Day 2. Yep, still love it.
No banding whatsoever. The 1:1 is confirmed working with both DVI-D and Composite (although curiously, the BIOS screen always seems to be scaled to Full — I'm figuring my graphics card is the guilty party for that, and it's alright).
Ghosting: Sighted only in one place, when I deliberately tried to make it happen; when scrolling something which was black on white, one pixel per frame. Even then it wasn't too bad. In all gaming use, including Quake 3, Doom 3, a bit of Counter-Strike:Source just now, and also in a movie or two, I am unable to see any ghosting whatsoever.
I think my persistence of vision is actually greater than the average response time of the screen; which is probably why, to get it any faster, they have to do that black-frame stuff, which I personally wouldn't go for — I'm a little worried the "black-frame insertion" of the Z model might make it flicker. Maybe that's the tradeoff you need to get it faster, but I'm sticking with this. I mean, I don't really see a point in going faster than what looks, to me, perfect.
As for movies: I don't really have a movie in good enough quality to really do it justice, I feel; it pines for 1080p (but I think I'll hold off on the HD movies for a bit until things settle down). But the trailers I've seen are really, really nice; I can't see any problems at all there. My DVD of the Matrix, if I'm close, I can see the blocks (mind you, if I'm close, it fills most of my vision). You can see the flaws in the DVD a little more easily. I just played an episode of Spaced, too (a sitcom with some pretty fast cuts in the editing, if you never saw it); flawless.
Colour: It comes set far too bright, and the colour seems a little off (reddish). Turn the brightness down a bit, change the colour settings to user and 50/50/50 and see how you like that; that's what I did, and it doesn't seem to need much work in my environment to calibrate it either. Once calibrated, I went through a few photos. My old (sadly deceased) cat is now my desktop background, and it really does reproduce the photo perfectly.
I have it on very similar settings to you, ATI, only with a lower brightness as otherwise it's clearly the brightest thing in the room by a very large margin!
Brightness: 15
Contrast: 53
Sharpness: 3
Colour: User Mode, Red=50, Green=50, Blue=50
Other inputs: I've tried the Composite, from my PlayStation 2 (planning ahead for Final Fantasy XII, you see, I'm partial to a bit of console action too)... it's pants, but then, composite is always pants. It does the best job I've seen, considering. I'd try component, but apparently my PS2 doesn't want to read CDs anymore, just DVDs, (it's making horrible noises), so I can't boot Blaze's HDTV Player disc, so the component won't work, and I don't have cables for any of my other consoles — they all go into RGB-SCART for my RGB monitor — and SCART, of course, is the one connection this monitor doesn't have.
So, I haven't tried the other input modes yet. I may have to invest in some kind of fancy RGB-SCART-or-component to component switchbox with several inputs and a good isolation (if such a thing exists). I am wary of HDMI right now, given I just saw a mere 1.2 metre HDMI cable sold for 60 of our Earth pounds in a popular high street store.
Oh, there's a Picture-in-Picture quirk: When you're in D-sub, DVI-D, HDMI or Component, your Picture-in-Picture can only be Composite, S-Video or off. Conversely, when you're in Composite or S-Video, you only get to choose between S-sub, DVI-D, HDMI or Component for your Picture-in-Picture.
I guess it has two different decoders, and if you want Picture-in-Picture, you have to use a mode that uses the other decoder. Fair enough; not a big deal (who uses PiP anyway?).
Right, now I'm off to watch... hm... decisions... <grin>
