Big Bike Thread
- Thread starter Breamy
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Soldato
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It is still double barrel, yes. Its officially called the DBinline.
The CEO was quoted as saying they've "hit the DBAir CS with a shrink ray".
Got a thread going on BikeRadar already but would like your advice too guys...
The rear disc brake (Avid Elixir 1) on my GF's Boardman Fi Comp is rubbing to the point where it's pretty much on all the time. You can only spin the wheel a couple of rotations before it stops completely. The bike was bought just after Christmas from Halfords as a present but only just been ridden so we've only now noticed the problem and it's a bit late and a bit of a trek back to the store for them to check it.
So far I've tried loosening the caliper mount bolts, spinning the wheel then pulling the brake, then doing the bolts up. I've also taken the wheel & pads out and pushed the pistons back in with a tyre lever but no joy. The feel at the lever is that the brake is on all the time. The lever doesn't travel freely then bite as with a normal brake, and the pads only move a small amount when the brake it applied fully. It's almost as if there's too much fluid in the system, but the Elixir 1's don't have pad adjusters.
Is there anything else I can try before getting my LBS to play with it?
The rear disc brake (Avid Elixir 1) on my GF's Boardman Fi Comp is rubbing to the point where it's pretty much on all the time. You can only spin the wheel a couple of rotations before it stops completely. The bike was bought just after Christmas from Halfords as a present but only just been ridden so we've only now noticed the problem and it's a bit late and a bit of a trek back to the store for them to check it.
So far I've tried loosening the caliper mount bolts, spinning the wheel then pulling the brake, then doing the bolts up. I've also taken the wheel & pads out and pushed the pistons back in with a tyre lever but no joy. The feel at the lever is that the brake is on all the time. The lever doesn't travel freely then bite as with a normal brake, and the pads only move a small amount when the brake it applied fully. It's almost as if there's too much fluid in the system, but the Elixir 1's don't have pad adjusters.
Is there anything else I can try before getting my LBS to play with it?
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Soldato
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Take the wheel off, loosen the bleed port on the lever a bit until you see fluid drip out, push pistons back fully, tighten bleed port. Wipe down using a bit of water to stop the corrosion afterwords.
That should sort it out(having done it to an elixir today on a chameleon)
Edit: Don't align the brake the way you did, do it by eye by nipping up one bolt a wee bit then pushing the caliper back and forth until you get an equal gap either side of the disc.
I'll give them a ring and see what's what. I bought the bike back in Jan though so what are the chances of them actually looking at it for me?
seen this suggested elsewhere but a bit dubious, how much fluid should I let out? Will it just seep out once I loosen the bolt on the lever?
Soldato
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The one I did today just seeped out without taking it right out. Small amount of fluid can make a big difference.
It went from being firm from the get go with next to no free play in the lever to feeling the exact same as the front.
When you push the pistons back that will move the right amount of fluid, no need to do much else.
try googling for a full proof method.
for mechanical ones there's a trick with a credit card to get the pads and brake aligned to the rotor but you said your brakes aren't even adjustable :S
If you take it back to halfords they will fix it for free
Soldato
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To be fair I just used a plastic tyre lever so not to mark the pads.
Being so new there shouldn't really be must resistance on the pistons.
Working on the caliper itself I'd take the pads out so they don't get contaminated.
The system has too much fluid in it, you push the pistons back which forces the excess fluid out, when you pump the lever when you're done the pistons move back out and pressure is taken off the system as the reservoir has some amount of free space in it now.
Being so new there shouldn't really be must resistance on the pistons.
Working on the caliper itself I'd take the pads out so they don't get contaminated.
The system has too much fluid in it, you push the pistons back which forces the excess fluid out, when you pump the lever when you're done the pistons move back out and pressure is taken off the system as the reservoir has some amount of free space in it now.
Cheers thats something i havent checked, will check it tonight
Checked the bolts and chain ring bolts are fine however i noticed the chain guide with a bit of force moves a little, however one of the bolts is knackered and wont budge. would a chain guide cause the creaking? don't wont to drill the bolt out to find out it wasn't affecting it
also would running a single ring at the front with no guide (has a bash gaurd) make it very likely for the chain to come off?
Grease the everything.
I considered taking it backto Halfords, but because it was the last one of this model in her size that I could find, I had to drive quite a way to get it and don't fancy doing that again really. Plus, there's no guarantee the kids in the store will be able to fix it sufficiently to warrant the trip.
So the process for letting the fluid out is:
1) remove wheel & pads
2) loosen bleed bolt on lever and let a little fluid out
3) push pistons back into caliper using tyre lever
4) pump brake a little
5) tighten bleed bolt on lever
6) replace pads etc and test
I did try looking for videos but all I could find were full bleed procedures.
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Soldato
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Tweeted Cane Creek about the DBInline:
@CaneCreekUSA
The DBInline is here. Our newest innovation in suspension will change the way short-travel bikes perform.... http://fb.me/6whzrbkmM
@ronburgrundy
Would you recommend this or the Air CS for an Orange Five? (trail riding with a 140mm up front)
@CaneCreekUSA
Excellent question. If you're downhills aren't extremely long and if you're trying to reduce weight, try the DBInline.
@CaneCreekUSA
If you're less concerned about weight and if you hit long downhills, jumps, etc., try the DBair CS.
So, clear as mud really....
@CaneCreekUSA
The DBInline is here. Our newest innovation in suspension will change the way short-travel bikes perform.... http://fb.me/6whzrbkmM
@ronburgrundy
Would you recommend this or the Air CS for an Orange Five? (trail riding with a 140mm up front)
@CaneCreekUSA
Excellent question. If you're downhills aren't extremely long and if you're trying to reduce weight, try the DBInline.
@CaneCreekUSA
If you're less concerned about weight and if you hit long downhills, jumps, etc., try the DBair CS.
So, clear as mud really....
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Ah, well it's kinda confirmed what I suspected.
The current CCDB air shocks are still meant for the burlier side of riding, while the Inline is aimed more at "Trail riding". It also means that it will fit an awful lot more frame snow, increasing their market share
Thing about the DBair some of us in here already have, is that you can still put progression bands on the inside, giving you that ramp up you need on the little bikes (in the case of the Five, chuck in the maximum) - but it has the reservoir etc, meaning the oil won't heat up for longer descents.
Personally even though I seldom ride terrain that warrants it, when I do ride such terrain I love ploughing the sh!t out of it and it makes me grin like a maniac. I'd rather sacrifice the weight penalty for the other times when the Inline would have been best.
So it is a pretty simple answer - there is no "best", there are just relatively small trade-offs. The the current models are anything to go by, the inline will be fantastic too.
The current CCDB air shocks are still meant for the burlier side of riding, while the Inline is aimed more at "Trail riding". It also means that it will fit an awful lot more frame snow, increasing their market share
Thing about the DBair some of us in here already have, is that you can still put progression bands on the inside, giving you that ramp up you need on the little bikes (in the case of the Five, chuck in the maximum) - but it has the reservoir etc, meaning the oil won't heat up for longer descents.
Personally even though I seldom ride terrain that warrants it, when I do ride such terrain I love ploughing the sh!t out of it and it makes me grin like a maniac. I'd rather sacrifice the weight penalty for the other times when the Inline would have been best.
So it is a pretty simple answer - there is no "best", there are just relatively small trade-offs. The the current models are anything to go by, the inline will be fantastic too.
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