Big Bike Thread

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Supercow in recommends double barrel shocker :D

£100 for a service vs £450 for a shock used for trail centers just seems like a no brainer to me, speaking as someone who has owned a CCDB and now is perfectly happy with an rp23.

Edit: in all seriousness though. If you can afford it, don't mind the extra weight, and time setting it up, and potential niggling thought that the settings could be 'better' for the trail you're on, the CCDB is absolutely amazing. My Fox 32 comment was that unless your Fox is working extremely well for you, you are going to love the rear end with a CCDB, and then want to upgrade the front to match it. Getting a CCDB when you have an rp23 that could keep going for years just seems like a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
 
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He didn't raise any budgetary concerns, and the best shock t of those by leaps and bounds, is the DB.

Speaking as someone who had a mediocre rp23 and is now dead happy on the DB (until the Kirk comes of course)
 
The way I see it is I have to spend £150 minimum at this point (for a service/push) and if I get a new RP23/CCDB then I can sell the old one for £60-80, so the marginal cost of an upgrade is not that much..... (Potentially £250 for the CCDBA)

Weight difference is about half a lb, which I can stand to lose off my waist anyway....

Main reason I'm thinking about it now is I don't want to spend £150 on the service/push of the RP23 and then find out I want to upgrade anyway.
 
Burned_Alive said:
Whats wrong with the Fork? Never noticed any issues with it on the Stiffee.... (Not that Im the best judge)
Click to expand...

Perhaps I'm being unfair (but I doubt it).

I'm basing my assumption on the fact that these forks are similar to the Fox34.
In a nutshell, I found them **** poor. Inflated to my recommended weight, i literally dove straight through the travel by just pumping the fork in the car park. Tried a run on them at that, which was a petrifying experience.

I know I have quite a forward riding position, so I put about a third more than recommended in. They felt a little bit better, however I still blew through the travel when it got just a bit steeper. I repeated this process until I had some support, however by that time, the forks lost the little suppleness it had and were rock solid, losing all traction and control (the little it had)

Now, I've come to like the idea of limited tuning range and only giving the consumer a limited useful range of adjustments (like the Ohlins shock I have on the DH bike), but Fox have gone too far with the CTD.

I don't understand in what parallel universe, "D" (Descend) , would be better for descending (D making the forks softer)

edit: I should also probably add, that I found the same issues across 3 different Fox34 units. One was a few months old when I rode it, one was box fresh, and the other was "tuned" by Mojo.
 
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Don't expect to be able to sell the RP23 quickly. The 32 is an ok fork but very flexy. Quite different to 34s. I would go for a Pushed RP23 too. It's a good match to my 32's on the Blur.
 
Finally some good news, the process is getting shipped from France to the shop this week, which means I'll have it by next week.
 
Looking for a budget spec me guys, I really want something with better brakes so I want something for under 300 notes preferably with discs front/back, I'm starting to ride trails a little more now and use my bike for back n forth work so I really want a hardtail.

Any suggestions? I know such a tiny budget is rare with you guys :D
 
that link goes to nowhere.
you need to measure your inseam as well as your height because if you have short legs you don't want a bike with a long seat tube.

Theres a fit calculator here that will tell you the geometry measurements you need
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp#type
Then you look up whatever bike on the manufactures website and look at the geometry for the different sizes and get the one closest to the measurements that calculator gave you..

anyway what is rough terrain?
hardtail Hybrid or cyclocross are good for dirt trails , canal paths , waggonways etc and there tyres aren't as wide as a MTB's so they have a lot less rolling resistance but they are still fine for most muddy conditions
MTB if it's terribly bad but cheap MTB's have rubbish suspension that does barely anything

No suspension , No Mudguards.
I wouldn't be bunny hopping those barriers at 4:00 though :P
 
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Does anyone keep their bike outdoors?

I used to keep my Hardrock under a cover but got lazy.. So for now with lack of shed it is kept at my parents.

Want to use the bike again but not sure how to keep it.. Anyone and can recommend decent bike covers for storing outside?
 
Would never keep my bike outdoors for fear for theft, mine are kept in the kitchen/hall or in the garage chained down to a floor anchor and covered, but more often than not they are in the house.

if keeping outdoors i'd look at a garden storage bin or something of the likes.
 
steve45 said:
Would never keep my bike outdoors for fear for theft, mine are kept in the kitchen/hall or in the garage chained down to a floor anchor and covered, but more often than not they are in the house.

if keeping outdoors i'd look at a garden storage bin or something of the likes.
Click to expand...

I looked into storage like sheds but most of those smaller plastic bike type ones were more expensive than a proper shed!
 
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