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Big Bike Thread

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SDK^ said:
Sounds like you need more pressure in your rear shock.
Fox Auto Sag for the win :)

Also, there is no point installing a bottomless token in your fork (if you could) if you are only using 75% of travel.
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Well in theory, I could run less pressure in the front fork with a bottomless token meaning I get full travel?

Just also looked at that auto sag thing.. Looks gash :p

If I run more air in my rear shock it makes the point of setting sag totally useless :(

Edit - Just realised Auto Sag is an Specialized thing using the "brain" shock setup.. Being as thats gash, it doesnt win.
 
robj20 said:
No such thing as future proof.

Through axles. On forks IMO a must have. Rear end depends on the frame some benefit more than others, some you cant tell the difference.
Tapered, i wouldn't worry about it.

If you have a budget stick to it, but i would say get a bike with standardised parts so in the future you can upgrade parts.
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SDK^ said:
Entry level dual suspension bikes start from around £1.5k.

If you're just getting started buy a good quality hard tail and if you enjoy riding it then upgrade later.
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Cheers for the replies guys. I'll take future proofing with a pinch of salt then, think I'm likely to try and get the ex-hire Norco as it seems a nice bike for a lowish price to tide me over. When I hired one a few weeks back it felt a huge upgrade from my current bike, bigger suspension travel + wheels made it so much less tiring over bumpy ground too. I can then enjoy riding that and work up to something more fancy later on.

robj20 - re: you finding them a must have on forks. I've been told by a few guys I've spoken to in shops that it is only really needed if you are doing some serious jumps or working with really rough terrain. Based on that - would it be fair to say that it isn't too much of a concern for a relative beginner? I'm thinking that if I got into wanting lots of air I'd be getting a full suspension bike regardless.

If/when I eventually make the move to a full sus bike I'll then look to try and make sure I'm buying something that meets up to date standards (ie through axles front/back)
 
It's got nothing to do with your sag, as you've already set it up according to your tastes - which is within normal range for AM bikes.
Just one thing to check, whether you are actually 30%.

The new Debonair has quite a large air volume, which may result in a linear compression curve. If you check inside the sleeve, you can add more rubber bands which act in the exact same way as your bottomless tokens in the Pikes.


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In addition to that, it may be worth looking into whether you got the correct tune on the slash? They come in rebound / compression tune as standard. It may be that you have one that's lower than recommended for your frame.

MrKnifey said:
Well in theory, I could run less pressure in the front fork with a bottomless token meaning I get full travel?
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I was debating this very same thing and had the exact same idea as you, however after a conversation with TFT they explained that this is not really the solution (to run more sag / softer, because you've made the shock / fork more progressive).
 
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Im going off the % on the side of the shock and its bang on 30%. Ill take a look see on the rubber band situation, but the it feels as soft as the fork, but the fork takes a lot of force to bottom out where as the rear shock just keeps on going, doesn't seem to ramp up.. Ill get there in the end.
 
MrKnifey said:
Edit - Just realised Auto Sag is an Specialized thing using the "brain" shock setup.. Being as thats gash, it doesnt win.
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Auto Sag is simple.
Pump shock up to 300psi, sit on the bike, press the valve and it releases air to set the correct sag.

A Brain shock is not required, that is a unit which reacts to the terrain and auto locks the shock.
 
thewanted said:
You have good taste Sir! Where are you riding? Glentress?
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Innerleithen, trails are awesome. Think I prefer them over Glentress, though wanted to go play in the freeride park! Now back to Cornwall, for some flat riding :(

Won't be back till after new year. May have to make a trip to wales to tide me over.

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Hopefully they work better :p
 
Hi, I think I need to bleed my back brake because there is no pressure in the lever at all, but the official bleed kit from Elixir is £40 so I found another kit from this website http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/products/bleed-kits/avid/complete-kit/#t-3 that claims they are just as good as the official one.

So just asking has anyone used these kits and are they any good? Also would you recommend I bleed both brakes even though my front one is fine? This is my first time bleeding brakes, thanks.
 
Only bleed the one that doesn't work. If it works leave it alone.
I used epic bleed for my old Hayes brakes its just syringes usually. If you get your own its much cheaper but its less hassle from epic. I really hate bleeding systems that require syringes.
 
1. Attach pipe to bleed nipple and insert open end into bottle of fluid.
2. Remove reservoir cap.
3. Fill with fluid.
4. Open nipple and pull and hold lever.
5. Close nipple.
6. Repeat steps 3-5 until clear fluid appears without bubbles.
7. Refit reservoir cap.
8. Remove pipe from bleed nipple.

That clear enough. :)
 
robj20 said:
1. Attach pipe to bleed nipple and insert open end into bottle of fluid.
2. Remove reservoir cap.
3. Fill with fluid.
4. Open nipple and pull and hold lever.
5. Close nipple.
6. Repeat steps 3-5 until clear fluid appears without bubbles.
7. Refit reservoir cap.
8. Remove pipe from bleed nipple.

That clear enough. :)
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My point is, what brake system uses that?
None of the big manufacturers's brake systems can be bled like that, it will let an awful lot of air in.
 
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