Big Bike Thread

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Need some advice on bikes.

2 problems i have with my bike. Giant CRS. the gears (shimano) are terrible going for from 2nd up to 3 or down to 1.

constant punctures, i have road tyres.

can you recommend 2 solutions to improve this?

Thanks.
 
ally said:
Need some advice on bikes.

2 problems i have with my bike. Giant CRS. the gears (shimano) are terrible going for from 2nd up to 3 or down to 1.

constant punctures, i have road tyres.

can you recommend 2 solutions to improve this?

Thanks.
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Clean the drive train and re-index the gears, number of guides available on the net about this, best place is the park tools website. Also buy new gear cables as the old ones get full of dirt and don't work as well.

Punctures could be anything, if they are constant then get the tyres off and replace as often fragments of glass can get into the tyre and stay there intill the tyre is inflated and puncture the tube again.
 
ally said:
2 problems i have with my bike. Giant CRS. the gears (shimano) are terrible going for from 2nd up to 3 or down to 1.
is this the front shifter? It might just need adjusted because cables can stretch over time.

constant punctures, i have road tyres.

What pressure are you running? I used to get a lot of punctures because the hand pump i hand wasnt able to get above 80-90 psi. Got myself a track pump and now run at about 110-120 psi and havnt had a puncture since (and its been a goof few months now).
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Shimano Alfine hubs?
Any one used a bike with this fitted?
May have to put my mountain bike asperations to one side with this damn illness and accept im knackered.
This looks like a fun bike, "Giant Seek 0"
 


erm i dunno what pressure it is i just pump til it looks done :/

its a 24 speed, 3 sets of gears. its the one on the left if this helps

(sorry don't know much about bikes!)
 
ally said:
erm i dunno what pressure it is i just pump til it looks done :/
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That could be a root cause of your woes m8.

Find out what psi you should be putting in yer hoops and inflate to that.

Under inflation can cause "pinch punctures" where the tube is "pinched" between the rim and an object/pothole etc and ends up puncturing. The tell-tale sign of one is two slits parallel to each other running along the tube about a centimetre or so long and just under an inch apart, although the dimensions can obviously vary.

Thinner the tyre, the more at risk you are from them although MTB'ers and off roaders as far as I am aware, are more prone to them. That said, on the way to work last year in December, I had the "pinch puncture fairy" visit me for both front and rear tubes and tyres when I rode over a metal roadworks sign at night that had fallen off the back of a lorry I presume. Burst both tubes and ripped through the tyres too. I was lucky not to have come off at the time.

Like any other form of transport that uses tyres and tubes, pressures are very important. Don't skimp on them. I check mine before each ride. Get yourself a half decent track pump with a gauge and inflate to the required pressure. ;)
 
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Draeger said:
That could be a root cause of your woes m8.

Find out what psi you should be putting in yer hoops and inflate to that.
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Agreed. I'll put money you're even getting near 100. Most basic road tyres as touch mentioned are rated at 110-120.

A proper track pump is a sound investment imo (i've got a Topeak Joe Blow Sport).
 
ally said:
ok so my 15 quid job from halfords wasnt the best idea then :/
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I have a joe blow as well, its a great pump but i got one from lidl for a fiver to use at home.
09_42090_b.jpg


You can tell straight away that its cheaply built but so far its worked perfectly. It will happily handle pressures up to around 120-130 psi. When it breaks or falls apart (which im sure it will :) ) i'll probably get another the same.
 
My track pump is an el cheapo from Tescos.

However, I check the pressures with a very accurate gauge from Edinburgh Bike Co-op as I feel a lot of the time, gauges fitted to track pumps can be a fair bit out.
 
I came a croper this morning: I didn't see a rut on a fast fireroad and my front wheel stopped dead throwing me over the bars landing hard. I was lucky I only bruised my leg and staved a finger. I really should go to hospital to get it checked out. DOH

The LBS loaned an Enduro SL to my pal while his bike is getting fixed. He wants to buy one now. Can't think why!
 
Inquisitor said:
The Cube Bikes website is just a separate online front of Square Wheels; it's the same shop, just a different website.

It's where I got my LTD CC from; they're a really nice bunch and well worth buying from. So nice, in fact, that when I got my LTD CC and the stem was too long, they told me to just package it up and send it back, which I did, and they then sent me a Syntace F119 as a replacement, which is worth £90 (as opposed to £30 for the original Easton EA30) :cool: :D

Also, I'm currently having some problems with the calliper alignment on my bike, and they've said that rather than sending it back up there, it'd be easier for both of us if I just get a local shop to sort it out and they'll reimburse me for it all, as it's covered by warranty. So yeah, they're top blokes :)
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Did you get this sorted in the end?

I am having a similar problem, the early stroker trails didnt have the correct grease behind the pistons.

Square wheels told me they hadnt had this problem with any of the other cc's they sold!

Hayes are now sending me grease kit.
 
Hi all, I'm looking to get a half decent hardtail for XC and I've found this for £399:

SPECIALIZED - 2010 HARDROCK SPORT DISC BLACK

41A402D.jpg



FRAME: Specialized A1 Premium Aluminium, fully butted, formed TT, Double ORE DT, externally relieved HT, reinforced disc mount, forged dropouts w/ replaceable hanger
FORK: SR Suntour SF10-XCT-V2D-MLO, 80mm, 1pc. alloy lower, 28mm Hi-Ten stanchions, mechanical Lock Out, coil/mcu spring w/ preload adj., size-specific spring rates, spring assisted seals

STEM: 3D forged alloy, 10 degree rise, 25.4mm clamp
BARS: Alloy riserbar, 25mm rise, 640mm wide
BRAKES: Avid BB5, mechanical disc, 160mm G2 Clean Sweep rotor
FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano Altus
REAR DERAILLEUR: SRAM X-4, mid cage
SHIFT LEVERS: SRAM X4-R trigger
CASSETTE: SRAM PG-820, 8-speed, 11-32t
CRANK SET: SR SunTour, Octalink spline
B/BRACKET: Shimano BB-ES25, cartridge bearing
RIMS: Alex RHD, 26'', pinned, alloy double wall
FRONT HUB: Forged alloy, hi/low flange, double sealed, ground race, machined disc mount, 32h
REAR HUB: Forged alloy, double sealed, ground race, machined disc mount, cassette, 32h
SPOKES: 14g stainless
TYRES: Specialized Fast Trak LK Sport, 26x2.0'', 60TPI, wire bead
SADDLE: Specialized XC, Body Geometry
SEAT POST: Alloy two bolt, micro adjust

I've been looking at GT Avalanches and these mainly, this seems to be perfect for my budget, what do you think?

For £100 cheaper I could get the standard hardrock with V brakes but I'm thinking for the extra money you get a lot more bike.
 
matthew2456 said:
Did you get this sorted in the end?

I am having a similar problem, the early stroker trails didnt have the correct grease behind the pistons.

Square wheels told me they hadnt had this problem with any of the other cc's they sold!

Hayes are now sending me grease kit.
Click to expand...

Hayes seem to be really good for service, a few people on MTBR complained about noisy stroker trails and Hayes sent them out new pads.
 
DanTheMan said:
Hi all, I'm looking to get a half decent hardtail for XC and I've found this for £399:

SPECIALIZED - 2010 HARDROCK SPORT DISC BLACK

41A402D.jpg



FRAME: Specialized A1 Premium Aluminium, fully butted, formed TT, Double ORE DT, externally relieved HT, reinforced disc mount, forged dropouts w/ replaceable hanger
FORK: SR Suntour SF10-XCT-V2D-MLO, 80mm, 1pc. alloy lower, 28mm Hi-Ten stanchions, mechanical Lock Out, coil/mcu spring w/ preload adj., size-specific spring rates, spring assisted seals

STEM: 3D forged alloy, 10 degree rise, 25.4mm clamp
BARS: Alloy riserbar, 25mm rise, 640mm wide
BRAKES: Avid BB5, mechanical disc, 160mm G2 Clean Sweep rotor
FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano Altus
REAR DERAILLEUR: SRAM X-4, mid cage
SHIFT LEVERS: SRAM X4-R trigger
CASSETTE: SRAM PG-820, 8-speed, 11-32t
CRANK SET: SR SunTour, Octalink spline
B/BRACKET: Shimano BB-ES25, cartridge bearing
RIMS: Alex RHD, 26'', pinned, alloy double wall
FRONT HUB: Forged alloy, hi/low flange, double sealed, ground race, machined disc mount, 32h
REAR HUB: Forged alloy, double sealed, ground race, machined disc mount, cassette, 32h
SPOKES: 14g stainless
TYRES: Specialized Fast Trak LK Sport, 26x2.0'', 60TPI, wire bead
SADDLE: Specialized XC, Body Geometry
SEAT POST: Alloy two bolt, micro adjust

I've been looking at GT Avalanches and these mainly, this seems to be perfect for my budget, what do you think?

For £100 cheaper I could get the standard hardrock with V brakes but I'm thinking for the extra money you get a lot more bike.
Click to expand...

What size are you after? I'm selling a Scott Aspect 45 2008 (XL) which would be absolutely perfect for that kind of budget (obviously it's cheaper than new). Also a better spec than the newer bikes from what I can gather.

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/mountain/product/aspect-45-08-28917
 
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