BMW and M Power Owners

Sounds promising, thank you. It didn't click at first that something like shocks could cause issues with the steering.

Any particular brand you would recommend or just stick to OEM?

OEM should do the trick if you're not lowered. I believe the standard ones are Sachs ones which you can get from ECP and GSF. Avoid the Monroe ones which are similar money but promise a more comfortable ride - they're not worth it.
 
12k is too much for a diesel.

Why is 12k too much for a diesel that does lots of motorway mileage with a quality synthetic oil?

Short answer - it isn't. 12k is absolutely fine for an oil service in this day and age unless the car was subject to extreme driving conditions such as low temperatures, lots of short journeys or aggressive driving. Doing an oil service every 8k miles is just wasteful, harms the environment and will give no benefit to you whatsoever.
 
If you look at the details the more expensive shock is only listed for cars up to 2001

I wasn't aware they changed them tbh, but that seems to be the difference
 
Just be aware, alignment on BMW's is a lot more complicated than people make out (especially those at tyre places who often have no clue how to do it!).

This is a post I did on M3Cutters about alignment:

I had a similar experience when looking for someone to do a hunter alignment on my 3 series. In the end I paid the premium for BMW to do it (although that's not a guarantee of quality either) and it came out spot on. Car went from feeling to twitchy to planted.
 
Just be aware, alignment on BMW's is a lot more complicated than people make out (especially those at tyre places who often have no clue how to do it!).

This is a post I did on M3Cutters about alignment:


Excellent post, thanks for that!

I recently had a track rod end replaced (by a BMW specialist) and have been back to Kwik Fit for the tracking 3 times. The first time both fronts were out and they adjusted it. Took it back for a check up 2 weeks later. Both fronts out again, they adjusted it. Took it back another 2 weeks later to re-check, one of the fronts now showing out. Adjusted again. Having been driving it for a week now and it felt OK at first but the steering now feels out again. What would cause this? They said the other track rod end is stiff, maybe that needs replacing too? Don't understand how they are getting it all aligned within the green on the Hunter machine, then just a few hundred miles later it is out again?
 
Looks like I'll be joining in BMW ownership but not with a 330ci as I thought.

My dentist/customer will give me his 525i sport saloon when he finally finds a 535i that he wants. It looks like it hasn't had a wash in years and has rust on the rear boot lid and a bit rough round the edges. Should be fun to mess about with.
 
Excellent post, thanks for that!

I recently had a track rod end replaced (by a BMW specialist) and have been back to Kwik Fit for the tracking 3 times. The first time both fronts were out and they adjusted it. Took it back for a check up 2 weeks later. Both fronts out again, they adjusted it. Took it back another 2 weeks later to re-check, one of the fronts now showing out. Adjusted again. Having been driving it for a week now and it felt OK at first but the steering now feels out again. What would cause this? They said the other track rod end is stiff, maybe that needs replacing too? Don't understand how they are getting it all aligned within the green on the Hunter machine, then just a few hundred miles later it is out again?

The machine may show in the green at the time, but once you start driving, things can be off still. I assume they weighed the car down and everything else accordingly first?

But if the other track rod end is damaged them the whole thing could feel off and cause issues after some time driving anyway.

I found out today that both my rear camber arms have a (small) bend in them so will need to replace those. The standard arms have small amounts of flex in them whereas aftermarket fully adjustable arms do not, should result in a more planted rear end and better finer adjustments. An inexpensive replacement all the same.

Got the pair of stainless steel exhaust flange clamps which have been overdue to replace the cast iron BMW ones which have cracked (probably the worst design choice by BMW ever to fit on a stainless steel exhaust?!) going on tomorrow. That will fix that common issue forever :cool:
 
Excellent post, thanks for that!

I recently had a track rod end replaced (by a BMW specialist) and have been back to Kwik Fit for the tracking 3 times. The first time both fronts were out and they adjusted it. Took it back for a check up 2 weeks later. Both fronts out again, they adjusted it. Took it back another 2 weeks later to re-check, one of the fronts now showing out. Adjusted again. Having been driving it for a week now and it felt OK at first but the steering now feels out again. What would cause this? They said the other track rod end is stiff, maybe that needs replacing too? Don't understand how they are getting it all aligned within the green on the Hunter machine, then just a few hundred miles later it is out again?

Well if we think about what a track rod does, it simply controls the amount of toe at the front. If its correct and tightened it shoudnt go out of line within a 100 miles at all. I have a feeling this comes down to weighting and what they input into the computer as to what readings it gives.

One of the divs at Kwik Fit put in that mine was a regular E46 with 18" alloys and low slung suspension. When the machine took a reading everything was red, as to be expected! Until i saw they put in the wrong vehicle! So that's something to be aware of. Another thing is how easy it is to send it out whilst tightening it back up. This takes care and time.

The thing that has struck me most about Hunter alignments is how completely simple they are but how often they are completely screwed up. And it ALWAYS comes back to the same thing - time, effort, intelligence and pride in work.
 
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But if the other track rod end is damaged them the whole thing could feel off and cause issues after some time driving anyway.

If the other track rod was damaged it would have never come into spec in the first place. All it is is a rod on a screw to shorten or lengthen it.

I found out today that both my rear camber arms have a (small) bend in them so will need to replace those. The standard arms have small amounts of flex in them whereas aftermarket fully adjustable arms do not, should result in a more planted rear end and better finer adjustments. An inexpensive replacement all the same.

Firstly, if your car comes into alignment there is no point replacing the arms as the small amount of alignment tweaking can be done with the eccentric nut and would just be a waste of money. The standard arms don't have flex in them enough to effect the camber but are made from flexible and thin metal so that if you hit a kerb theae cheap arms are the first to bend and therefore protect other more expensive parts.

Adjustable camber arms are only for those who want camber adjustment above what the eccentric nut can give (about 30 minutes each way), ie for those involved with decent track work. Fitting adjustable camber arms and setting them to standard adjustments is just silly. Its akin to buying an SLR and leaving everything on "auto".

TLDR - Stop spending money!!!
 
[TW]Fox;28603138 said:
It's not, follow the manufacturers recommendations and use the right oils. Changing it at 8k is a total waste of money. Don't worry about it.

Why is 12k too much for a diesel that does lots of motorway mileage with a quality synthetic oil?

Short answer - it isn't. 12k is absolutely fine for an oil service in this day and age unless the car was subject to extreme driving conditions such as low temperatures, lots of short journeys or aggressive driving. Doing an oil service every 8k miles is just wasteful, harms the environment and will give no benefit to you whatsoever.

Personally, coming from a biking background, 3k oil changes are normal. All my petrol cars got an oil service every 6k miles. Regardless of the nature of driving (unless after a trackday, then oil change regardless of mileage). The cost of oil and filter for peace of mind is negligible.

I'll be sending off an oil sample at the time as well so it will be worth it for that.

But, personally, for my vehicles, I'd rather sneak in an oil service middway between the manufacturers recommendation for the 330d. It really can't hurt and can only do good. So why not? Sure, if I wanted to save pennies (no care for the environment, I recycle enough as it is) then sure, I'd not bother and leave it to a reputable dealership (Coopers Reading in this case). But, I don't mind the expense nor hour or so it takes to do it on a Sunday afternoon. At the end of the day, the books get stamped on officially scheduled service intervals.
 
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Its a waste of money and effort that's all. It won't do any damage but neither will following bmw specs. Bmw specs took my last 5 Series beyond 200,000 miles.

As a result I service my 530d only when it requests it.
 
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