Bought an old BMW M3, filled with regret...

Hi mrk,

Sorry to hijack your thread a little. Just bought an E46 m3 and i know of all the usual big issues to look out for, sub frame, vanos, correct services etc. In your experience / knowledge is there anything else i need to keep an eye out for, that arent as common knowledge as the big issues stated? I love the colour combo you have btw :cool:

My car - https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/posts/30851906
 
Hi mrk,

Sorry to hijack your thread a little. Just bought an E46 m3 and i know of all the usual big issues to look out for, sub frame, vanos, correct services etc. In your experience / knowledge is there anything else i need to keep an eye out for, that arent as common knowledge as the big issues stated? I love the colour combo you have btw :cool:

My car - https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/posts/30851906

Most issues are pretty common knowledge really, but to give you an idea of the past 2.5yrs of ownership, I've had the following common/not so common faults addressed:

- DSC Pressure sensors. There are two of these, if one goes, then your ABS and DSC lights will light up at the same time. A diagnostic check will flag either sensor, but it's best to replace them both, as once one goes, the other won't be far off. These are £90 each from BMW. Only BMW produced these.

- Front brake caliper seizing, common for this age of car anyway, but better to see to it regardless if there's no record of a caliper refurb being done. Use Big Redd for the job. It's fairly inexpensive too, and choose the premium black colour option, as it is more permanent than the standard black, which will fade away with repeated heat cycles over time. As standard, non CSL brake calipers are unpainted, so will go rustic brown fairly quickly.

- Door window pinch sensors/clips. These clips are DIY swappable, but does involve taking the door panel out. My driver side window sometimes when using power up, will go back down again as it thinks there's a hand or finger stuck. It's super low priority, and simply holding the window button up bypasses the pinch sensor anyway.

- Wing mirror base paint bubbles. Luckily the dealer I bought the car off replaced both my mirrors with newly painted ones, so I didn't have to spend any money here. Sun bubbles the paint at the base, and they need to be re-painted.

- Wing mirror glass starts to corrode at the edges. This is an age thing, use mirrorjohn to buy two new wing mirrors, they are cheap.

- Xenon headlight washers have a little C shaped clip that clips into the hose that connects to the back of each headlamp housing at the back. These clips cam come loose from potholes or if a loose hand hits the hose when the car is being worked on. I found one of mine dangling off the hose, so just clipped it back in. Without the clip, the washer sprays water all over the inside of the engine bay, and will be an MOT failure.

- The battery not being healthy can cause DSC/ABS lights to come on randomly as well. You can check the voltage supplied by the battery to see if it's good using the OBC hidden menu (loads of guides on how to do this),I had mine replaced by RAC. It's a Varta battery, and has lifetime warranty through RAC.

- Alignment! Have alignment checked at least once a year. Pot holes and bumps can and do knock alignment out. Considering alignment checks are free (you only pay for any adjustments required), it's a no brainer really. Some say you must go to a place that has Hunter alignment kit, but this isn't necessary. It's the workman doing the job that matters more than the kit being used. Gaygle I believe had a big long post about it a long while back.

- Oil pressure relief valve. When my car was at BMW having the airbag recall done last year, they did a health check (part of their process, no cost) and said there were signs of an oil leak. I took the car to the indy and they found the oil pressure release valve had a weeping seal. It's a cheap fix at under £30 for the part. Just the seal on its own can't be bought iirc.

- Exhaust backbox flange clamps. This will be flagged on MOT, they are bare iron, and will corrode to the point where they need to be cut off. You can buy a complete stainless steel flange bracket kit for £30 on eBay, comes with everything needed.

- Parking sensors, My PDC still randomly fixes itself, and then doesn't work again. Constant beep in reverse. There's probably a break in my loom somewhere, but it's on my small list of things to do. Mostly I just ignore it though, don't need sensors to park :p

I would also go round the whole car and apply Gummi Pflege to all rubber seals. It keeps them in top condition.

That's about it really, you may well get small leaks showing up as a weep, to be expected on these cars, but most/all will start as a weep, and should be advisories on any MOT anyway, and most can be fixed easily/cheaply. Just the PAS pipework that isn't cheap unfortunately if that ever needs changing. They are well in excess of £100! if there's a break or leak in yours. Mine are all fine so far.

Probably some other stuff I can't think of right now, but they will be minor I suppose.
 
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Other common things when you get over 80k miles
- Springs cracking/snapping is common. Either just replace with OEM or the eibach prokit gives a small lower but sturdier springs for under £200
- Shocks can wear out, again either OEM replacements or Bilston b4s which are OEM spec but allegedly better items
- MAF sensor, these can cause fuelling issues and error codes, don't buy from BMW, Mafshop are an online site doing them for around £100
- coil packs / plugs , coil packs last 60-80k and was the only service issue I had on mine, get bosh replacements (eurocarparts) and it's an easy DIY job, with a new set of plugs it cost me £160 iirc
- cpv seal (constant pressure valve), not sure if on the smg, but this is known to leak on the gearbox. A better quality seal cost a tiny amount delivered from the US from a guy on my cutters.
- as mrk mentioned ming mirror glass, my passenger side defrost wasn't working, turned out to be the old glass, use mirror John on my cutters for cheap replacements.
- clutch / DMF can wear, depends on use, mine would have done 120k or more, but had them replaced when the gearbox was removed, you can get LUK parts as uzed by oems from ECP for a bit of a saving
- suspension bushes. Definitely will be tired as you get over 60k, Lemforder OEM parts are much cheaper from ECP
- Discs and pads. Discs alwayes go OEM, pads can vary, pfc Z are popular, but mrk has go be minted this time I believe.
 
I have pfc on the rear still as they have loads left, but Mintex M1144 on the front. They both squeel at low speed light pedal applications which is annoying, but expected for performance pads. Both have very low dust levels compared to OEM pads.

Stopping performance is much better than OEM!

I would also recommend getting stainless steel braided brake hoses to give greater brake pedal feedback and performance will. Relatively cheap upgrade to improve braking.
 
Most issues are pretty common knowledge really, but to give you an idea of the past 2.5yrs of ownership, I've had the following common/not so common faults addressed:

- DSC Pressure sensors. There are two of these, if one goes, then your ABS and DSC lights will light up at the same time. A diagnostic check will flag either sensor, but it's best to replace them both, as once one goes, the other won't be far off. These are £90 each from BMW. Only BMW produced these.

- Front brake caliper seizing, common for this age of car anyway, but better to see to it regardless if there's no record of a caliper refurb being done. Use Big Redd for the job. It's fairly inexpensive too, and choose the premium black colour option, as it is more permanent than the standard black, which will fade away with repeated heat cycles over time. As standard, non CSL brake calipers are unpainted, so will go rustic brown fairly quickly.

- Door window pinch sensors/clips. These clips are DIY swappable, but does involve taking the door panel out. My driver side window sometimes when using power up, will go back down again as it thinks there's a hand or finger stuck. It's super low priority, and simply holding the window button up bypasses the pinch sensor anyway.

- Wing mirror base paint bubbles. Luckily the dealer I bought the car off replaced both my mirrors with newly painted ones, so I didn't have to spend any money here. Sun bubbles the paint at the base, and they need to be re-painted.

- Wing mirror glass starts to corrode at the edges. This is an age thing, use mirrorjohn to buy two new wing mirrors, they are cheap.

- Xenon headlight washers have a little C shaped clip that clips into the hose that connects to the back of each headlamp housing at the back. These clips cam come loose from potholes or if a loose hand hits the hose when the car is being worked on. I found one of mine dangling off the hose, so just clipped it back in. Without the clip, the washer sprays water all over the inside of the engine bay, and will be an MOT failure.

- The battery not being healthy can cause DSC/ABS lights to come on randomly as well. You can check the voltage supplied by the battery to see if it's good using the OBC hidden menu (loads of guides on how to do this),I had mine replaced by RAC. It's a Varta battery, and has lifetime warranty through RAC.

- Alignment! Have alignment checked at least once a year. Pot holes and bumps can and do knock alignment out. Considering alignment checks are free (you only pay for any adjustments required), it's a no brainer really. Some say you must go to a place that has Hunter alignment kit, but this isn't necessary. It's the workman doing the job that matters more than the kit being used. Gaygle I believe had a big long post about it a long while back.

- Oil pressure relief valve. When my car was at BMW having the airbag recall done last year, they did a health check (part of their process, no cost) and said there were signs of an oil leak. I took the car to the indy and they found the oil pressure release valve had a weeping seal. It's a cheap fix at under £30 for the part. Just the seal on its own can't be bought iirc.

- Exhaust backbox flange clamps. This will be flagged on MOT, they are bare iron, and will corrode to the point where they need to be cut off. You can buy a complete stainless steel flange bracket kit for £30 on eBay, comes with everything needed.

- Parking sensors, My PDC still randomly fixes itself, and then doesn't work again. Constant beep in reverse. There's probably a break in my loom somewhere, but it's on my small list of things to do. Mostly I just ignore it though, don't need sensors to park :p

I would also go round the whole car and apply Gummi Pflege to all rubber seals. It keeps them in top condition.

That's about it really, you may well get small leaks showing up as a weep, to be expected on these cars, but most/all will start as a weep, and should be advisories on any MOT anyway, and most can be fixed easily/cheaply. Just the PAS pipework that isn't cheap unfortunately if that ever needs changing. They are well in excess of £100! if there's a break or leak in yours. Mine are all fine so far.

Probably some other stuff I can't think of right now, but they will be minor I suppose.

Thanks for the very detailed reply mrk :) and thanks demon too!!

Couple of these i have heard of and some not so much lol. A couple of these have been done on the car recently which i suppose is a bonus. There are receipts with the car from BMW regarding the health check and airbag recall which was done april 2016, on the health check it mentioned seizing caliper and there was a bill for the replacement too. Then a couple of months later another receipt for a front caliper from an indy garage for the other side. The backbox flange was flagged up on the MOT before purchase and the garage replaced it.

It has also had a couple of SMG related parts fitted in the last 2 years, a compression spring and the salmon relay, again issues i had read about before. Just hope the pump is fine eeek!!

Also has receipts for 2 rear springs last year, and my car definitely has the wing mirror glass issue. There are some bad marks on the edges and the join to the different perspective glass both sides. It is one of the issues to sort out.

I have a lot of plans for the car, the first lot of jobs are preventative maintenance and peace of mind jobs really, which i believe all us car enthusiasts do / should do. M3cutters particular go on about preventative maintenance on these cars.

1. I want to get the subframe reinforced with the foam/resin BMW use on non cracked cars, something i believe costs in the region of £300
2. As mentioned above give the suspension bushes a overhaul and replace tired parts
3. Thinking about a vanos overhaul, not sure what your opinions are on this, have you considered it? I know there uprated parts etc but do you do it just for the sake of it considering the cost - It sounds absolutely fine now, the whole engine sounds very sweet tbh :-)
4. Also read about cooling system should be overhauled every 100k or so - again not sure if that falls into the doing it for doing it sake category.

Non preventative maintenance aside

1. Respray couple of interior parts like door handles as showing there age, cracks and dull paint.
2. CSL software update for the SMG box, heard it makes a big difference with smoother gear changes etc.
3. Replace the SMG gearknob as it look tatty and lettering on top is all but gone. Company called Storm Motorworkz do a really nice replacement.
 
The indy did my pressure valve, but just checking the DIY for it, it's easy, but very tight workspace! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClTzswttBt4

My VANOS has no problem, and has really had an easy life as it is, so I don't imagine it will throw a wobble any time soon. You'll know when the VANOS is on the way, as the engine at idle around the top of the block area will sound like someone rattling frozen peas in a tin can. S54 makes many noises when driving slowly just cruising along, idling and whatnot anyway, so worth distinguishing all the "normal" noises and getting familiar with them :p

Cooling system is a relatively cheap overhaul, but if your cooling system has no leaks, then it's gonna be fine. Mine is at 95K miles now and doesn't appear to have any problems. I don't know what year your one is, but 2005 and 2006 models shared a couple of components with the CSL in the engine bay, exhaust manifold, for example. Obviously check coolant levels from time to time. If you find the water temp needle on the cluster hovers too far to the left, and your coolant level is as it should be, then your thermostat might be on the blink. An easy swap with a new one for that. The temp needle will usually always hover slightly left anyway though, and should never hover beyond the middle marker. This is normal for our cars.

A very useful software mod you might consider is the actual oil temp being reflected by the RPM lights during the warm-up phase on a cold start. You can do this yourself in the S54 utility posted on m3cutters if you have an OBD-II cable and a laptop to hand.

As for other little tweaks, I have done the following using a mixture of Carly, NCS Expert and the S54 modification tool:

- One touch indicators. By default E46s will blink the indicator once if you just touch the stalk. One touch changes it to 3 times. Ideal for lane changes and in-line with newer cars.
- Android nav unit that looks OEM. The Erisin unit I have runs Waze and other apps useful for infotainment. Much better sound quality than any stock audio config, inc HK Audio.
- Blink the indicators on secure lock. If a window or door is slightly open, or the boot, then the blinkers won't flash when locking the car, so I know something has been forgotten.
- One touch power windows up for the rear windows. Requires modifying the rear window switches to remove the tabs blocking that function, and to enable it in software afterwards.
- Brake force display switched on, it's off by default. It flashes the high level brake light, and outer and/or inner LED array on the brake light cluster in a special order, at higher brightness when you apply sudden/heavy braking. Newer cars have this anyway, it's turned off by default on the E46.
- Arm/disarm the alarm when using the physical key in the door to lock/unlock the car. Our key fobs can fail. You want to be able to securely lock and unlock the car with the alarm should that happens. Default function is just to lock the car and disregard the alarm when using only the key in the door.
- There is also a coding option so that if the car is locked with the key or fob from outside, then no door can be opened from the inside. Some E46s come with this mode enabled by default, some don't. My last E46 didn't! It means if someone breaks into your car, then there's no way they will be able to open the doors or boot as they will not open from the inside, and the unlock button on the centre console is disabled when the car is locked.
- M-Track mode. Relaxes DSC, allows a small bit of play before intervention. If you've got a nice bit of winding open road, then it's a fun mode to use.

There are a host of other little tweaks you can personalise using the Carly app, so it's worth investing in it and a cable for all that kind of stuff.

I just had a look at Storm Motorwerks, and their Titanium gear and handbrake knobs look really nice. I think the brushed silver is a bit too bright, but the titanium finish suits well. Certainly one to keep on the wishlist I think, as leather knobs only last a couple of years before going shiny/worn on a manual!
 
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The indy did my pressure valve, but just checking the DIY for it, it's easy, but very tight workspace! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClTzswttBt4

My VANOS has no problem, and has really had an easy life as it is, so I don't imagine it will throw a wobble any time soon. You'll know when the VANOS is on the way, as the engine at idle around the top of the block area will sound like someone rattling frozen peas in a tin can. S54 makes many noises when driving slowly just cruising along, idling and whatnot anyway, so worth distinguishing all the "normal" noises and getting familiar with them :p

Cooling system is a relatively cheap overhaul, but if your cooling system has no leaks, then it's gonna be fine. Mine is at 95K miles now and doesn't appear to have any problems. I don't know what year your one is, but 2005 and 2006 models shared a couple of components with the CSL in the engine bay, exhaust manifold, for example. Obviously check coolant levels from time to time. If you find the water temp needle on the cluster hovers too far to the left, and your coolant level is as it should be, then your thermostat might be on the blink. An easy swap with a new one for that. The temp needle will usually always hover slightly left anyway though, and should never hover beyond the middle marker. This is normal for our cars.

A very useful software mod you might consider is the actual oil temp being reflected by the RPM lights during the warm-up phase on a cold start. You can do this yourself in the S54 utility posted on m3cutters if you have an OBD-II cable and a laptop to hand.

As for other little tweaks, I have done the following using a mixture of Carly, NCS Expert and the S54 modification tool:

- One touch indicators. By default E46s will blink the indicator once if you just touch the stalk. One touch changes it to 3 times. Ideal for lane changes and in-line with newer cars.
- Android nav unit that looks OEM. The Erisin unit I have runs Waze and other apps useful for infotainment. Much better sound quality than any stock audio config, inc HK Audio.
- Blink the indicators on secure lock. If a window or door is slightly open, or the boot, then the blinkers won't flash when locking the car, so I know something has been forgotten.
- One touch power windows up for the rear windows. Requires modifying the rear window switches to remove the tabs blocking that function, and to enable it in software afterwards.
- Brake force display switched on, it's off by default. It flashes the high level brake light, and outer and/or inner LED array on the brake light cluster in a special order, at higher brightness when you apply sudden/heavy braking. Newer cars have this anyway, it's turned off by default on the E46.
- Arm/disarm the alarm when using the physical key in the door to lock/unlock the car. Our key fobs can fail. You want to be able to securely lock and unlock the car with the alarm should that happens. Default function is just to lock the car and disregard the alarm when using only the key in the door.
- There is also a coding option so that if the car is locked with the key or fob from outside, then no door can be opened from the inside. Some E46s come with this mode enabled by default, some don't. My last E46 didn't! It means if someone breaks into your car, then there's no way they will be able to open the doors or boot as they will not open from the inside, and the unlock button on the centre console is disabled when the car is locked.
- M-Track mode. Relaxes DSC, allows a small bit of play before intervention. If you've got a nice bit of winding open road, then it's a fun mode to use.

There are a host of other little tweaks you can personalise using the Carly app, so it's worth investing in it and a cable for all that kind of stuff.

I just had a look at Storm Motorwerks, and their Titanium gear and handbrake knobs look really nice. I think the brushed silver is a bit too bright, but the titanium finish suits well. Certainly one to keep on the wishlist I think, as leather knobs only last a couple of years before going shiny/worn on a manual!

If i was to guess i think my VANOS / engine has had a relatively easy life, but you can never be 100% sure can you.

Yeah i've just looked into the cost of a cooling overhaul and its not a job that breaks the bank, so will put that on the list, but not as a priority. As you can see i've put a pic below which shows where my temp is once warmed up, pretty much bang in the middle. Thats after my commute home sitting in nose to tail traffic for over half of it!!

Thanks for the tips on mods etc, i didnt realise we can tinker with software side of things ourselves, the geek in me just did a sex wee :-D. I will sort out an OBD-II cable and have a read up of things.

Luckily on the NAV front it already had a ERISIN unit in it, so that was a extra bonus for me as for sure i would have bought one as i always do, i did a nexus 7 install in the EVO which was the nuts!!. I have used a few android based units, like xtrons etc and i actually find this one better than most. The screen quality isnt bad, and the speed it goes through menus etc is alright to. I am used to some pretty pants standard audio equipment so this unit and the HK audio speakers actually sound very nice to me. I know HK audio is a pain to replace but again its something i may look into in the future, but that would be way down the list, if it ever gone done at all.

I think the storm motorworkz stuff is really nice and i am moving more towards the titanium color too. Its not overly expensive, i was toying with fitting the E60 M5 SMG knob as a few others have as i think it looks really nice and keeps that OEM look about it, but even second hand ones are over twice the money as the storm motorworkz stuff so i think its too extravagant really, plus gotta do some wiring.

I am taking the car tonight to a friends garage to get it on a ramp and have a good look over things, plus re-check floor for cracks etc. I am going BMW friday, as im off work, for some clips as i've noticed the strip where roof boxes go on is loose and it seems to be missing a few clips. Couldnt find them on ebay. Whilst im there i'm going to ask them about getting the reinforcement foam done, and no doubt they will offer a free health check.









Nexus 7 Install in the EVO :-)



 
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:eek: Flick the climate to auto with AC on! There's no need at any time to ever turn it off, and it makes negligible difference to economy either. It means your AC system remains in good health, with selas and pipes free of seizures and bacteria buildup.

Leave the temp at 20 to 22 depending on preference and simply regulate comfort using the dual on the centre vents.

Good call on getting all those checks done though. Seems you're pretty clued up on what you're doing and everything's so am sure the car will remain excellent.

Part of the fun of older cars like this is tinkering. If you're a bit of a geek, then whip your dongle out and get playing ;)

I do actually have a spare wired dongle if you're interested. It's an official BMCables one which I upgraded to one with wider compatibility with other cars, so this one is just kicking about.
 
:eek: Flick the climate to auto with AC on! There's no need at any time to ever turn it off, and it makes negligible difference to economy either. It means your AC system remains in good health, with selas and pipes free of seizures and bacteria buildup.

Leave the temp at 20 to 22 depending on preference and simply regulate comfort using the dual on the centre vents.

Good call on getting all those checks done though. Seems you're pretty clued up on what you're doing and everything's so am sure the car will remain excellent.

Part of the fun of older cars like this is tinkering. If you're a bit of a geek, then whip your dongle out and get playing ;)

I do actually have a spare wired dongle if you're interested. It's an official BMCables one which I upgraded to one with wider compatibility with other cars, so this one is just kicking about.

I will do the AC tomorrow lol.

Just got back from the garage, good news no cracks visible at all. Bad news, well not bad bad but considering the car has just past MOT less than a week ago not good either. The exhaust bracket is broke as we discussed earlier. That was advised on the previous MOT, and no mention on new MOT and i even asked them on saturday when i picked it up did they sort out the broken bracket considering it passed MOT, the guy said yes, all sorted - it obviously hasnt been. Also my mechanic friend said he would have advised rear brake pipes, again no mention on MOT. So we gave them a good rub down and greased them up. Also noticed the CPV is leaking, so i need to sort that out. So i'm not 100% happy but overall considering the age of the car etc its in very decent condition. Just not happy with the garage, but what else are we to expect from garages!!! - Just shows dont trust any of them. They will be having a phone call though to let them know lol

How much are we talking for the cable? :-)
 
You can have it for free, just fling your details over and \I'll get it sent out tomorrow.

And yeah, garages (unless you know them), always cut corners.
 
No problem, happens often really, so many autocorrect victims on here it would seem :p

Cable will be posted tomorrow, had a bit of a mission carrying, packing and posting my old front brakes, carriers and pads today...
 
Been a busy bee today. Firstly went to my local BMW dealership and ordered the clips for the loose roof strip where the roof boxes fit onto, and a Constant Pressure Valve. They also quoted me £300 to do the injection resin to reinforce the boot floor / subframe, so i've booked it in. They told me they will fully inspect for cracks beforehand to as resin is useless if they are already there. Dont know where i stand if it has cracks. The garage i bought it from guaranteed me it had none, but we know what the guarantee / promises are made of. It supposedly has 30 day 1000 miles guarantee for anything. Hopefully wont have to cross that bridge so fingers crossed!!

Then went to my local Paint suppliers who matched and mixed me up an aerosol for the car and the interior bits. My interior door handles and bottom of steering wheel have gone a bit cracked and horrible in a very small sections. They are just age related marks and 99% of people probably wouldnt care but my OCD wasnt having any of that so this afternoon have done drivers side door handle and will do the rest over the weekend.

Also over the last few days a couple of bits have arrived, my replacement mirrors came from mirrorjohn, 100% improvement over the tired and marked originals and excellent value for money. Yes they don't fit the same as the originals which have a nice locking mechanism type system. But just for curiousity i asked at the dealers today how much they were and they are £80 a side. Considering mirrorjohn are £35 for the pair i will live with the fact they clip on and have double sided sticky tape on lol. They do the job at the end of the day. Also centre caps arrived for the wheels and put them on to. Again the originals werent in bad condition but my OCD won out on that too :D

I'm a big believer in little touches make all the difference and after a wash of and interior clean too this afternoon the car is looking that so much better than it did last week. Which as you saw from the photos it is in very nice condition anyway.
 
Reading that makes me happy, good to see someone else putting thought into those little things :)

I hope you aligned the rotation of the centre caps to correspond with the M badges on the wheels too? A workmate goes one step further and absolutely has to have his locking wheel nut in-line with the m badge and centre cap as well, but I can live without that, or can I? A little task for the weekend perhaps :p
My plastic door handle trims are still good. Some flaking at the very edge where plastic meets leather, but you have to look up close to notice it. Will wait until it gets any worse before getting a mixture done up to re-paint them. Did you also get a clear lacquer?

That resin quote seems good. Last inspection mine had no cracks, so I should probably get that booked in. I was dead set on getting the plates installed by ETA as a permanent solution, as I understand that resin can still lead to cracking, just over a longer run period?

If yours does have cracks, then ETA Motorsport will do the plate work for around £750.

Motorwerks Titanium knob and handbrake handle should be here by Monday by the way, couldn't resist. I opted for the E30 inspired version.
 
No problem, happens often really, so many autocorrect victims on here it would seem :p

Cable will be posted tomorrow, had a bit of a mission carrying, packing and posting my old front brakes, carriers and pads today...


Just rename yourself to Mark and save us all the frustration :D
 
Errrr no I didn't align them Lol, but my ocd was kicking itself as i thought about it after I am not taking them off again though to change them

In terms of paint I had to get a satin lacquer as that's what the guys said from the paint supplier and after it dried today it is absolutely spot on. The lacquer gives it a Matt type finish.

Yeah I was happy with the resin quote. They said 150 for the job itself and the resin stuff is 50 a bottle and you need two apparently. Then add vat it is roughly 300. They said it only takes 3-4 hours do but they need the car 24 hours after as they cant move it as it needs to set. My understanding on the cracking and resin is that it greatly reduces the risk of it happening but isnt guarenteed. Reddish motorsport use that method if the floor is crack free on inspection I believe so they must trust it to be good enough to be a viable solution.

For me if the car has survived 13 years and 85k without cracking and this resin gives it a greater chance of it not doing so in the future then ill give it a shot for £300. I would suspect it would need to be ragged and abused for it to crack after reinforcement with resin.

Isn't it the smg models are more prone to it than manuals?. I'm sure I read somewhere thats what was suspected due people using s5 and s6 modes a lot and the verosity of gear changes and movement from the backend that expidites the tearing of the boot floor with smg models.

Very nice to hear you have ordered the a storm workz gear knob. Look forward to seeing a pic of it fitted. Definately one of the first mods on my list once i have done my few tidy up jobs and preventative maintenance jobs done
 
I would suspect it would need to be ragged and abused for it to crack after reinforcement with resin.

I guess that's true. I read it's in part the SMG higher modes, as well as doing standing launches too briskly (just mashing the throttle as opposed to sympathetically easing into the launch). When mine was checked at ETA, the guys there said they've seen track only examples with no cracks, yet road only examples come in with cracks, so is a lottery based on how they've driven, rather than just the gearbox being used.

Errrr no I didn't align them Lol, but my ocd was kicking itself as i thought about it after I am not taking them off again though to change them

No need to take them off, I found the best way is to use two tabs of sellotape, pinch the centre cap at each end with your thumbs wrapped in said tape (sticky side outward) and rotate in place :D :D

I'm hoping the Storm bits arrive tomorrow, I have a free weekend, so could do with tinkering during the downtime.

Just rename yourself to Mark and save us all the frustration :D

Not far off a deed poll surely.
 
I think it is in part a lottery, like you have read cases where they have cracked with low mileage etc, and some still going nearly 200k mileage on. A friend of mine had a convertible with smg which had done 180k, and he drove it like he stole it on a very regular basis and it never cracked. He was a mechanic and used to get it up on his ramp every 6 or so months to check it out. Never cracked, was never reinforced with plates or resin.

Did the storm bits arrive? - My cable did today, so again thank you very muchly :D

I've been trying to finish off my painting bits today (passenger arm rest and steering wheel but rain keeps stopping play so i've given up and will try again tomorrow!!

oh, maybe changing your name to mark will help us all :p
 
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