Car todo lists....
- Thread starter Phate
- Start date
Caporegime
- Joined
- 11 Mar 2005
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- 32,233
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- Leafy Cheshire
Walking, quicker too.
This thread's bad, every time I think i've added everything to the list I realise something else needs doing. Currently I have a box of bits to fit if/when I get chance sat in the corner of the bedroom (doesn't everyone keep a stainless steel exhaust/induction kit/brake pads etc in the bedroom ?).
Car is already stage one mapped, has forge TIK, and ITG filter as well as retro fitted standard boost and temp gauges.
* Fit JanSpeed Stealth exhaust as the standard unit is the bottle neck in current set-up.
* Decide if fitting S/S JanSpeed inter cooler pipes or sticking with silicon forge items and sell whatever is not needed. ** Fitted J/S **
* Fit Forge Dump Valve and probably remove as i'm not keen on them if they're loud but it does smooth the gear change apparently. ** Fitted **
* Fit EBC Green Stuff pads (to standard disc's as the car's only done 7k since new)
* Remove ITG air filter, remove air box and fit Piper Cross Viper induction kit ... mmm carbon fibre
* Fit Pioneer DEH700BT and finally have Ipod/USB support and a proper hands free set-up without a headset. ** Fitting tomorrow **
* Dash mount USB slot and take iPod connector to the glove box
Stuff I don't have yet/can't do myself:
* Get alloys powder coated as they've just started to show corrosion in the spokes.
* Custom remapping to replace standard stage 1 map
* Order/retro fit cruise control (requires TAN code from dealer writing to ECU £100
)
* Have P/S front air bag switching function enabled by dealer so I can fit child seat for the few days a year the little one will be a passenger. (requires TAN code from dealer writing to ECU £100)
Later in the year it'll get a full re-trim in genuine moo, colour coding front and rear and when the springs eventually give up it's Bilstein Streetline all round with braided lines when the fluid's or disc's are due a change, whatever comes first. If I haven't got a cheap paddle shift wheel before October i'm going to have to treat myself to one
I had planned to do all but the bits I have the parts for on paternity leave but it seems I miscalculated how demanding little people are. Noob mistake but time with her was more important
Final job is to enjoy approx 50+% more BHP per tonne! (102bhp/tonne standard car compared to my lighter examples 155bhp/tonne based on similar work done to same type of car). Did I mention it's a Smart Roadster ?
Car is already stage one mapped, has forge TIK, and ITG filter as well as retro fitted standard boost and temp gauges.
* Fit JanSpeed Stealth exhaust as the standard unit is the bottle neck in current set-up.
* Decide if fitting S/S JanSpeed inter cooler pipes or sticking with silicon forge items and sell whatever is not needed. ** Fitted J/S **
* Fit Forge Dump Valve and probably remove as i'm not keen on them if they're loud but it does smooth the gear change apparently. ** Fitted **
* Fit EBC Green Stuff pads (to standard disc's as the car's only done 7k since new)
* Remove ITG air filter, remove air box and fit Piper Cross Viper induction kit ... mmm carbon fibre
* Fit Pioneer DEH700BT and finally have Ipod/USB support and a proper hands free set-up without a headset. ** Fitting tomorrow **
* Dash mount USB slot and take iPod connector to the glove box
Stuff I don't have yet/can't do myself:
* Get alloys powder coated as they've just started to show corrosion in the spokes.
* Custom remapping to replace standard stage 1 map
* Order/retro fit cruise control (requires TAN code from dealer writing to ECU £100
)* Have P/S front air bag switching function enabled by dealer so I can fit child seat for the few days a year the little one will be a passenger. (requires TAN code from dealer writing to ECU £100
)Later in the year it'll get a full re-trim in genuine moo, colour coding front and rear and when the springs eventually give up it's Bilstein Streetline all round with braided lines when the fluid's or disc's are due a change, whatever comes first. If I haven't got a cheap paddle shift wheel before October i'm going to have to treat myself to one
I had planned to do all but the bits I have the parts for on paternity leave but it seems I miscalculated how demanding little people are. Noob mistake but time with her was more important
Final job is to enjoy approx 50+% more BHP per tonne! (102bhp/tonne standard car compared to my lighter examples 155bhp/tonne based on similar work done to same type of car). Did I mention it's a Smart Roadster ?
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Well, the only thing I can see there really effecting performance would be the remap. The exhaust and air intake MAY make a difference IF the previous things were particuarly restrictive. However certainly not 47%.* Fit JanSpeed Stealth exhaust as the standard unit is the bottle neck in current set-up.
* Decide if fitting S/S JanSpeed inter cooler pipes or sticking with silicon forge items and sell whatever is not needed.
* Fit Forge Dump Valve and probably remove just as quickly as i'm not keen on them if they're loud but it does smooth the gear change a little more apparently.
* Fit EBC Green Stuff pads (to standard disc's as the car's only done 7k since new)
* Remove ITG air filter, remove air box and fit Piper Cross Viper induction kit ... mmm carbon fibre
* Get alloys powder coated as they've just started to show corrosion in the spokes.
* Custom remapping to replace standard stage 1 map
* Fit Pioneer DEH700BT and finally have Ipod/USB support and a proper hands free set-up without a headset.
I had planned to do all but the custom map on paternity leave but it seems I miscalculated how demanding little people are. Noob mistake
Finally enjoy approx 50+% more BHP per tonne! (102bhp/tonne standard car compared to my lighter examples 155bhp/tonne based on similar work done to same type of car). Did I mention it's a Smart Roadster ?
I'm guessing the remap is going to up the boost and fueling and advance the ignition timing.
The forge dump valve you mentioned is probably a recirculating valve. (DV003 if I remember correctly). It shouldn't sound any different to the standard one you have now, and it wont effect performance at all. The only benefit is a nice shiny bit of chrome and 'perhaps' a longer life.
Well, the only thing I can see there really effecting performance would be the remap. The exhaust and air intake MAY make a difference IF the previous things were particuarly restrictive. However certainly not 47%.
I'm guessing the remap is going to up the boost and fuelling and advance the ignition timing.
The forge dump valve you mentioned is probably a recirculating valve. (DV003 if I remember correctly). It shouldn't sound any different to the standard one you have now, and it wont effect performance at all. The only benefit is a nice shiny bit of chrome and 'perhaps' a longer life.
As you seem to have some idea about roadsters sorry if i'm teaching my granny to suck eggs but they were horribly restricted from the factory, the most popular modification to any standard smart is replacing the TIK with a Brabus one as the air flow restriction is the most most crippling. The standard roadster (non import) was 80bhp and weighs 790kg so 102bhp/ton. I have the light version, no aircon, no electric roof and a few other minor weight saving changes. Weight is quoted at 750kg for me or 108bhp/ton. Both versions shipped with 80bhp outputs apart from the Brabus that shipped as 100bhp - the Blue Water never shipped with the uprated map or TIK/filter, it was an after thought offered to stop complaints that the Brabus version was cheaper and faster from the people who shelled out for a BW.
Standard vs Brabus the only differences in the engine were uprated exhaust valves & free flowing exhaust, fractionally larger turbo, different injectors (that have been proven not to be a limiting factor), a foam air filter with the letter B on it, bigger TIK (or TIP if you don't have a smart) and a conservative remap. They both ran from the same production line as Merc couldn't justify anything else on such a small run.
I've upgraded everything performance wise apart from the turbo and injectors, the exhaust valves were a longevity modification not a performance one. To be 50% more powerful that original it's need 40bhp more, it's going to run between 115-120 based on every other car i'm aware of that's had the same work done and been on the dyno so using the lowest figure of 115bhp that's 47% ish
But I do agree I don't have an accurate figure hence me going for the conservative end of things rather than saying 50% but it could just as easily be 45% but i'd be surprised.Also no roadsters had a DV as standard regardless of model and the forge unit it's not a recirculating valve it's direct to atmosphere, debate still goes on about if they save or kill turbo's but either way they do seem to smooth the gear change from what i've driven, so if it kills the turbo that's a great excuse to buy a Brabus Turbo
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Jeep
Fit diesel rear leaf springs.
Fit 2" coil springs pucks to front to even up ride height.
Stop exhaust blowing.
Fix NS front clunky noise.
Fit new front discs and pads
Replace engine oil and filter
Replace auto box oil and filter
Light service
MOT
Make decision if I'm going to keep it for winter or sell up
Fit diesel rear leaf springs.
Fit 2" coil springs pucks to front to even up ride height.
Stop exhaust blowing.
Fix NS front clunky noise.
Fit new front discs and pads
Replace engine oil and filter
Replace auto box oil and filter
Light service
MOT
Make decision if I'm going to keep it for winter or sell up
I know very little about smarts. Just knowlege from my previous turboed car (fiat coupe 20vt).
Are you sure it doesn't have a recirc. I'd be very surprised if a modern engined turbo didn't. The manufacturer would be shooting themselves in the foot reliablilty wise as the poor little turbo will be continually stalling. The forge you're getting must be a dump to atmos. Basically will make a louder tsssst and briefly overfuel the engine.
Are you sure it doesn't have a recirc. I'd be very surprised if a modern engined turbo didn't. The manufacturer would be shooting themselves in the foot reliablilty wise as the poor little turbo will be continually stalling. The forge you're getting must be a dump to atmos. Basically will make a louder tsssst and briefly overfuel the engine.
Merc Shooting themselves in the foot.. ? Well it'd be an improvement to shooting themselves in both feet as normal then
This is the DV I have, again it's defiantly to atmosphere.It's the TShhhhhh noise that's putting me off but i'll give it a chance before I write off the idea totally. The Roadster I had a go in with a DV wasn't that loud but it wasn't a Forge unit but this one has the mathematically correct 12mm outlet vs the standard 25mm on most universal kits.
I started a list-
Carbonio Induction kit
Rear ARB
Forge splitR valve for roy bacer ptsch sound innit
Leon Cupra front splitter
Milotec grille inserts
100 cell sport CAT
Miltek exhaust
18" Pro Race 1.2's in black
custom map
Then I added up the cost and decided to keep it standard
Carbonio Induction kit
Rear ARB
Forge splitR valve for roy bacer ptsch sound innit
Leon Cupra front splitter
Milotec grille inserts
100 cell sport CAT
Miltek exhaust
18" Pro Race 1.2's in black
custom map
Then I added up the cost and decided to keep it standard
Slight update from me;
1) Get Rear Passenger side rear wing keying repaired (3rd September)
2) Get Enkei CTR original alloys refurbed
3) Get 4x Yoko Parada2 205/45/r17 to fit Enkei 17" CTR alloys
4) Swap 18" OZ off and fit standard 17" CTR alloys
5) Fit new brake disks and pad all around
6) Swap back to 18" OZ as the Paradas are seriously poo
7) Fit Goodridge Braided Hoses and AP racing 551 brake fluid
8) Get it lowered onto Tien,Eibach or Spoon springs, camber kit and get geo setup for fast road.
9) Get some Toyo Proxies TR-1 tyre all around
10) Avoid Trees/Walls/People/Other cars for 12months
11) Sell CTR and buy a new toy (DC5, FD2, Elise, S2000, 350z, Scooby STI or something else. )
1) Get Rear Passenger side rear wing keying repaired (3rd September)
2) Get Enkei CTR original alloys refurbed
3) Get 4x Yoko Parada2 205/45/r17 to fit Enkei 17" CTR alloys
4) Swap 18" OZ off and fit standard 17" CTR alloys
5) Fit new brake disks and pad all around
6) Swap back to 18" OZ as the Paradas are seriously poo
7) Fit Goodridge Braided Hoses and AP racing 551 brake fluid
8) Get it lowered onto Tien,Eibach or Spoon springs, camber kit and get geo setup for fast road.
9) Get some Toyo Proxies TR-1 tyre all around
10) Avoid Trees/Walls/People/Other cars for 12months
11) Sell CTR and buy a new toy (DC5, FD2, Elise, S2000, 350z, Scooby STI or something else.
)
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ive got a bit of a list already
1) get wheels refurbed
2) get remap
3) get car detailed (bit of a swirl monster atm)
4) get Dash converted to blue backlight
Wheels only need refurbing because i haggled a large discount off the car, instead of asking the dealership to do them prior to collection.
Rest is pretty obvious.
1) get wheels refurbed
2) get remap
3) get car detailed (bit of a swirl monster atm)
4) get Dash converted to blue backlight
Wheels only need refurbing because i haggled a large discount off the car, instead of asking the dealership to do them prior to collection.
Rest is pretty obvious.
My List so far
and got a few more to add
Decat
Replace Puddle and Interior lights with LEDs
and Flat Blade Wipers that are arriving monday
Few things to do to mine.
1)Get replacement Jacking Point Cover and spray. - Done
2) Titanium ST Gear Knob - Done
3) Lower 20mm
4) replace front brakes with Focus ST items
5) Parking Sensors
6) Dr Colorchip treatment when/if it arrives. - Done
7) Full machine polish
8) Admire
9) get mrk to do some admiring for me
10) admire photos
and got a few more to add
Decat
Replace Puddle and Interior lights with LEDs
and Flat Blade Wipers that are arriving monday