*** Car Wash / Valet / Detailing Thread ***

i should update, that after i cleaned and protected my car with Turtle wax flex wax spray, next day i had to go though lots of flooded roads

i used that flex wax on the windscreen, didn't seem to do very much but then i hit 60 MPH and i could turn the wipers off, the rain just zoomed off the windscreen in milliseconds ! really good !

when i got home and got out the car, i glanced at the car and it looked really clean still !!
job well done ! :cool:
 
So, finally got a day to give my M340i a good going over and use the Koch Chemie Protector Wax. I'm impressed, seems to leave a deeper shine, beads and sheets off just as good too. Will see how it lasts, longevity wise compared to the AG Polar Seal.

Also - used the 'dry the car with water' method for the first time - MIND BLOWN!!! :D And I know, should have taken photos prior to drying, to show the beading - DOH!!

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I'd be interested in hearing how you get on with this on the windscreen, especially at night, as I get the same thing from other spray sealants.

So I decided to give it a go, just to see what happened. Unfortunately it did result in the screen having a 'film' of residue left on it which was visible first thing in the morning with a heavy dew on it and also at night when the wiper blades swept over the screen. Had to use Glaco glass compound cleaner to get rid of it. So lesson learned, will keep it away from the windscreen next time.
 
So, finally got a day to give my M340i a good going over and use the Koch Chemie Protector Wax. I'm impressed, seems to leave a deeper shine, beads and sheets off just as good too. Will see how it lasts, longevity wise compared to the AG Polar Seal.

Also - used the 'dry the car with water' method for the first time - MIND BLOWN!!! :D And I know, should have taken photos prior to drying, to show the beading - DOH!!

LFHQFhs.jpg


dXX78e6.jpg


SI6eAec.jpg


w29QGxY.jpg





So I decided to give it a go, just to see what happened. Unfortunately it did result in the screen having a 'film' of residue left on it which was visible first thing in the morning with a heavy dew on it and also at night when the wiper blades swept over the screen. Had to use Glaco glass compound cleaner to get rid of it. So lesson learned, will keep it away from the windscreen next time.

looks lovely

what glass sealant did you use ?
 
looks lovely

what glass sealant did you use ?
Cheers.........stayed looking like that until later that afternoon once I'd driven it on minging roads!! :(

I didn't use a glass sealant, do you mean RainX or similar? - Sorry, not too familiar with glass sealants! I usually just dry the car off and then clean the glass all round with AG Fast Glass.
 
I think he’s referring to the Koch Chemmie Protector Wax leaving the film on the windscreen :)
Yup :cool:.

@VaderDSL had asked about it a few pages back. I found that AG Polar Seal did the same thing, I'm guessing most spray finishing waxes will do it too but was curious to see if the KC PW did it and if so, if it was to the same degree as the Polar Seal did.
 
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Very interesting video

i know what im buying next :)


the comments are interesting from each company


First off nice demo and glad that you watched ours.Definition of ENCAPSULATE1 : to show or express the main idea or quality of (something) in a brief way* a phrase that perfectly encapsulates [=sums up] my feelings about the day* The first song encapsulates [=captures] the mood of the whole album.2 : to completely cover (something) especially so that it will not touch anything else* The contaminated material should be encapsulated and removed.So yes we feel that this demo (and ours) shows that the dirt particles are "Encapsulated" and yes separated due to that. If the dirt wasn't encapsulated the water would remain dirty. Also this video visually "Encapsulates" the science that we are showing in this demo. So both meanings of the word "encapsulate" are showed in these videos.To answer the comments about what is happening here. When you wet the surface with ONR, the solution (due to the polymers used in the formula) will lift and encapsulate the dirt particles which protects the surface while you clean. The dirt is trapped in the wash media and then released into the bucket where it is pulled to the bottom so it is not reintroduced onto the surface. Where as if you were to wash with another rinseless wash that is NOT encapsulating the dirt - the dirt will not be pulled to bottom of bucket and you will be washing with dirty water and have the potential to reintroduce the dirt onto the surface. Which will increase your chances of marring the surface.As for the comments about others leaving the surface slicker - it that happens something is left behind to create that. A clean surface is just that... clean. IF you want that then we suggest using ONR Wash and Wax. That will produce a slicker surface that ONR.




@diydetailofficial

5 days ago
Thanks for including DIY Detail Rinseless Wash in your experiment. All 3 are good products and clean well, but the technologies are very different. What’s shown here is more attachment than encapsulation. A pure polymer rinseless attaches itself to the dirt, making it heavier than the water and sinking it down. With a surfactant based product, the dirt is emulsified, with any larger particles sinking to the bottom. With the DIY Detail Rinseless Wash we use both polymers and surfactants to accomplish our goal of cleaning the surface of the vehicle in the safest way possible. When polymers and surfactants are mixed, the surfactants win. To make this an accurate test( as opposed to a cool looking demonstration) first they should be diluted per instructions ( 256/1). Next is evaluating not how the water looks, but how clean the wash media is when leaving the wash bucket. In our R&D ( it was a 3 year process) how we evaluated our Rinseless was on how it cleaned the surface, not on how it separated in the bucket ( add oil to your glasses and it will also cause a similar effect). If you can find a sufficiently dirty white work truck, pre-spray the products on the surface, and evaluate how they lift the dirt off the surface. Next go over the same sized area with identical wash media. Return the wash media to the wash bucket. Remove the wash media from the bucket and observe how clean it is.Our goal was to have the cleanest surface, and also have the wash media returning to that surface be as clean as possible. With that said, they all work, but differently.
 
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I am tempted to go down the Rinseless route and see what the fuss is about.
On the weekend I went over the cars with BH Auto-foam and Surfex HD to remove the grime that had built over the winter in a sprayer at the usual 4% and hosed it all down.
I checked the results afterwards to see how much was removed and by the looks of it not that much. The salt and hardened stuff was loosened and came of after rinsing it down but it was still caked in a blanket of dusty grime.
Not sure if another product like pre citrus wash would have done any better?
Watching the video I posted above seems to remove more on the caked on Porsche? I know it a promotional video for their video but still got me thinking just to simplify things and the wash process to ensure the time I do have it used well to give it a semi decent clean more often.
 
I am tempted to go down the Rinseless route and see what the fuss is about.


i do it, its good product

summer defiantly rinseless wash, so easy and quick

I used Surfex HD once on my car, but although good, its not a "cleaner" its a "degreaser" and I'm seeing a lot of "don't use degreasers as cleaners" as overtime it will damage paint and plastic

Ivan is a legend, he invented the Rinsless wash and he latest creation is with DIY Detail, so i will be getting their Rinseless wash next
 
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What do you guys use to "deep clean" your windscreens? I have spots all over my windscreen that won't come off with a normal wash, it's as if they are ingrained in the glass. With the low winter sun we get up here it's terrible and very distracting and needs removing asap.
 
What do you guys use to "deep clean" your windscreens? I have spots all over my windscreen that won't come off with a normal wash, it's as if they are ingrained in the glass. With the low winter sun we get up here it's terrible and very distracting and needs removing asap.

I use Glaco compound, it's an abrasive in a handy bottle that includes a felt applicator on the end. You simply squeeze some compound out, then rub it over the windscreen using the felt pad.
 
I use Glaco compound, it's an abrasive in a handy bottle that includes a felt applicator on the end. You simply squeeze some compound out, then rub it over the windscreen using the felt pad.

Same, can't be beaten without going down the full blown polisher route.
 
I want to get a bulk lot of microfiber cloths.
Not sure if I should just get a 50 or 100 pack for cheap or get better quality ?
Use for external on tye car and probably interior too

Any suggestions?
 
i clay it

try clay and then glass polish

You can clay bar a windscreen? You learn something new on here everyday. I have never used a clay bar before so is it easy enough to do and is there a product I should use after to "seal" the windscreen?


I use Glaco compound, it's an abrasive in a handy bottle that includes a felt applicator on the end. You simply squeeze some compound out, then rub it over the windscreen using the felt pad.

This stuff? Do you follow that up with their own coating or do you use something else? That Glaco compound seems well thought of from reading around several sites.

Thank you to both of you for replying.
 
You can clay bar a windscreen? You learn something new on here everyday. I have never used a clay bar before so is it easy enough to do and is there a product I should use after to "seal" the windscreen?




This stuff? Do you follow that up with their own coating or do you use something else? That Glaco compound seems well thought of from reading around several sites.

Thank you to both of you for replying.

Yeah that's the stuff. I've used Glaco DX previously to seal the glass, but I did experience the occasional wiper judder but it came and went.

They also have Ultra Glaco, which their own website claims has 12 months durability which is longer than DX at 4 months, although DX launched much later. Therefore I'm not entirely sure what the USP of DX is to live alongside Ultra Glaco.

Angelwax H2GO is also often mentioned as being a very good glass coating, but I haven't used it so can't comment on how easy it is to apply or how long is lasts.
 
You can clay bar a windscreen? You learn something new on here everyday. I have never used a clay bar before so is it easy enough to do and is there a product I should use after to "seal" the windscreen?




This stuff? Do you follow that up with their own coating or do you use something else? That Glaco compound seems well thought of from reading around several sites.

Thank you to both of you for replying.

Yep that's the stuff

I should try my soft99 compound too

My clay blok from chemical guys says to use it on your windscreen first and then you can do the bodywork


I clayed it last week and sealed it with just normal turtle wax stuff
 
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Folks, has anyone bought a short spray gun for their Karcher? I picked up one today - the Halfords Advanced one which comes with a few different QR nozzles. There's also an adapter in the box which you screw onto the bottom threaded inlet of the gun and then the OE Karcher hose is fitted by pulling back the collar on the adapter, lining up the flat faces of the Karcher original hose and pushing it in until it clicks, whereupon you let the collar go and two thin 'securing bars' inside the adapter marry up with the machined groove on the Karcher hose connector, and that should be that.

However........(and maybe I'm just completely missing something here) when I pull the collar back, line up the Karcher hose fitting, push it in and let the collar go, it appears to lock in position. BUT.......if you hold the gun with one hand and the Karcher hose with the other hand, then twist (not pull and not operating the collar on the adapter) the Karcher hose around 90 degrees left or right, you can then easily just pull the hose right back out. It's like the adapter thin bars inside only secure it in one position but if you do the twist action, it comes right out. Now, it could be because there is a swivel mechanism on the gun that this doesn't matter and indeed this is the way its supposed to be, but I didn't want to run water pressure through it to check in case I need to take the entire gun kit back. Maybe once the pressure goes through the gun it makes it impossible to pop out again or something?

Has anyone with a Karcher bought and used one of these short gun kits with the adapter I mentioned? Couple of photos below (showing the little securing bars inside which are supposed to line up with the machined groove on the Karcher hose fitting. If you pull the collar back it makes the little bars move outwards).

The video link shoes a guy (at 4 mins 50 sec in) describing how to connect the Karcher hose up but he doesn't mention anything about it being able to pop back out if you twist it 90 degrees?

Would appreciate it if anyone who has one of these could comment on if I'm going wrong somehow or even do a little check for me and connect yours up then try and twist it and see if it can be removed?

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