*** Car Wash / Valet / Detailing Thread ***

steering wheel bmw - leather steering wheel on the 3 series is the only place I ever used a genuine leather product leathermaster protection cream - it took a lot of grime off too. -
(use the same on the sofa.)
 
How long do they last? I've tried similar products, although admittedly not those, and the shine comes back within a week.

This is on a 2 year old car as well. Is it a BMW thing?
Ive watched video's where they go to town with a brush and steam etc....
Wish I'd just given it a wipe every few days.
5 week Euro trip every year spanking it over the Pyrenees etc leaves a mark on the wheel
 
How long do they last? I've tried similar products, although admittedly not those, and the shine comes back within a week.

This is on a 2 year old car as well. Is it a BMW thing?

Unfortunately all BMW steering wheels end up this way. The wipe will help a lot but it will need doing every 2-3 weeks, it’s not a lot of effort though.
 
Oh ok, where I live my car would be dirtier than that in half a mile.
Roadworks meant I had to drive through the fields on my way back from the tyre place.. Not sure why I bothered cleaning it :(

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Roadworks meant I had to drive through the fields on my way back from the tyre place.. Not sure why I bothered cleaning it :(

eUkqo0l.jpeg


a quick pressure wash will put it right

if you use a sealer such as Zanio Z-2 Pro, the dirt does not seem to cling onto the paint as well and a quick pressure washing session every weekend becomes a faster and easier job in my experiene

obviously it depends if you have the space to do it, if not then some garages have a pay as you go pressure washer
 
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so used the bd auto-wheel on new2me car - took the wheel off and letting it dwell a while with subsequent paint-brush agitation over 20-30 mins did't shift all the crud.
does it only go purple when there is iron present ? rim had an excessive build up on one quadrant so did wonder if the car had been stood in a muddy puddle at some time.

... then found second rim was fused on at the hub - despite 40 whacks with a mallet and letting it down with single nut a bit loose ... then rain stopped play.
(looks at though the hub face has a few indents where something could be inserted to lever the wheel off face - but didn't commit/sacrifice a screwdriver to that task)

nuts had clearly been done up at maximum overdrive - double wrenching needed.. so will go round and free them all / apply copper-slip , before cleaning continues


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e: maybe I'll app some plusgas at the hub edge before next attempt

e2: plusgas applied - mental note need to make sure I recover the locking wheel nut adapter before driving off
Do you need to wash out the sprayer immediately after using BH touchless is it going to gunk it up if left in there until next time (packaging says it has sugar in it?)
 
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What grade pad and polish did you use please, I may need to do similar on my 20 year old Audi TT ?
I used Ceriglass which is one of the most abrasive polishes you can use for glass, save for the 3M one, and straight up cerium oxide.



I’ve found that only cerium oxide is strong enough to remove scratches but I wouldn’t recommend it as your first attempt.



Ceriglass will give you excellent results.
 
Are you saying you need to perpetually use a sealant to fill micro-scratches.

Looking at whether you can get spare bottles for foam cannon (polar) to enable you to keep several products easily available,
with an accurate measure of the bottle thread size thinking of aliexpress (it's like finding pressure brake bleeding caps for your reservoir, no standardization)
 
I used Ceriglass which is one of the most abrasive polishes you can use for glass, save for the 3M one, and straight up cerium oxide.
I’ve found that only cerium oxide is strong enough to remove scratches but I wouldn’t recommend it as your first attempt.

Ceriglass will give you excellent results.


Thank you, was it only the one grade of Ceriglass that you used please? Or did you follow up the 1st pass with a lighter cut polish?
 
Foam...

I live in a hard water area and have been using a nilfisk foam cannon and I get thin foam. It does the job I suppose but if I got a better cannon would this still be the same due to the hard water or can you get around it?
 
I haven't fully figured out foam quality myself with new Autoglym cannon .. but had read pressure washer power can have an impact, with respect to venturi/nozzle size gun is setup with,
so higher power needs a smaller /1mm venturi ; however if it's higher powered presumably you have to work faster as you are dispensing foam faster.
 
Thank you, was it only the one grade of Ceriglass that you used please? Or did you follow up the 1st pass with a lighter cut polish?
Just Ceriglass - I don’t think there are different grades, or at least there weren’t when I bought it.

I use it with a DA orbital with a 15mm throw and rayon glass pads.



3 passes, reasonably high speed 4/6.



Foam...

I live in a hard water area and have been using a nilfisk foam cannon and I get thin foam. It does the job I suppose but if I got a better cannon would this still be the same due to the hard water or can you get around it?

I live in a hard water area and when I bought the MJJC V2, it was a clear and obvious step up in foam thickness.


In my experience, it depends heavily on the foam lance and snow foam you’re using.
 
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