Corsair H50 Water Cooling Kit

HornyRhino said:
regarding screws for the fans...

as i mentioned to others earlier in the post you may already have some as many cases now come with a variety of screws.
you can use the the 4 included to attach front fan and then one side of the rear fan can be attached via 4 shorter screws m3.5 and then the back of that fan can be safetly attached to the back of the case using normal fan screws.

so far gaiden me and bulldog have found the corsair being postioned upside down helps by a few degrees maybe due to pressure difference i dont know.

i have 2 akasa apaches on mine in push/pull and have them attached to a akasa 3x pwm splitter which attaches to mainboard purely for rpm and temp while the fans are powered from a molex.
what i was wondering would it be better to use a proper pwm y cable straight to motherboard cpu fan header? not sure on the difference apart from one being molex powered and other mainboard powered?...


regards ...

HRhino"
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No difference except the Akasa 3 way is taking the load of supplying volts to the fan off you mobo. (Basically don't change it).

I have mine mounted upside down, don't think it makes much if any difference. Idles at 31-35C depending, load 70C. Using AS3 + 2 * Scythe Kama PWM fans exhausting.
 
Been reading the Corsair forums, quite a few people awaiting for the 1156 bracket as they already own the H50.

Yet Corsair is selling in Bestbuy stores in the USA new H50's containing the 1156 bracket yet people who've been waiting weeks for the bracket still dont have them.

Takes the **** abit dont you think?
 
I am going to be running this H50 with 2 of those akasa fans in push pull. Should I have the fans intaking air as recommended by corsair or blowing air out. My case is a HAF922 so will have the stock 200mm exhaust fan on top. And will have a 200mm intake, and a 200mm side fan.
 
So I've fitted my H50,was wondering though,with all the screws tightened up,should you still be able to twist the pump in the bracket? Or should it be rigid and unable to move:confused:
 
Then something's amiss,mine seems to twist more than that,and the screws are tightned up all the way! Also while everything seemed fine when fitted,today,don't know if this has anything to do with it,my computer keeps locking up,forcing me to re-boot,runs for 5-10 mins,and does the same again:(
 
nikbear said:
Then something's amiss,mine seems to twist more than that,and the screws are tightned up all the way! Also while everything seemed fine when fitted,today,don't know if this has anything to do with it,my computer keeps locking up,forcing me to re-boot,runs for 5-10 mins,and does the same again:(
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loosen the screws, then turn it and pull it towards you , you should feel it lock into place, then tighten it up some.
 
Checked again,at it is on properly,Have a question though,the pump is connected via a splitter cable to a chassis fan connector on the mobo which it shares with another fan,is that ok or really should it have its own singular connection?:confused: Just wondering if the pump is getting the full 12v that it needs:confused:
 
I have a similar problem fitting mine.

According to Corsairs instructions :

"Remove the plastic shell carefully and insert cold plate into retention ring, turning clockwise to secute"

Well I did exactly this - I lined up the holes in the block, inserted it, making sure it made contact with cpu, and twisted - and the thing kep twisting!!. It didn't lock into place as I expected. Thought the screws were tightened too much as it also says in the instructions to only tighten them 1/2 to 3/4 turn,, but even loosening them slightly caused the ring to disengage. So I had sufficient "turnage" on the screws.

I attempted a 2nd time (at this stage some of the stock thermal paste had transferred on to the cpu), and what I found was it worked if i inserted the block and twisted and as long as the block is under the rings teeth it's all good. I noticed the Corsair logo was lined up face upwards, perfectly straight as in the videos on youtube. Tightened up and everything is fine. It doesn't budge.

1. Should I really go back and redo it with some other paste, seeing as the 1st time I bodged it and paste transferred onto the cpu. And I had lift the cold plate off a couple of times and retry before I got it right. I assume MX3 is best and I should only spread it on the back of the plate and not touch the cpu ?

2. When I start up the pc, there is a noise coming from the pump for a few seconds (scratching noise) and then it stops, and in normal operation but there is a faint ticking noise from the pump. Sounds more like a click you get from a fan. Only noticeable if case door open, case on desk. Not loud. Is all this normal behaviour, especially the bit about the pump initialising ?

Thanks
 
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I get some noise from the pump starting up,a very quiet 'gurgling' sound,then it goes quiet,Just trying to work out if the mobo connector can supply both the pump and an attached fan,or if I need to connect the pump straight to a molex on the PSU to be sure it gets the maximum Volts:confused:
 
nikbear said:
I get some noise from the pump starting up,a very quiet 'gurgling' sound,then it goes quiet,Just trying to work out if the mobo connector can supply both the pump and an attached fan,or if I need to connect the pump straight to a molex on the PSU to be sure it gets the maximum Volts:confused:
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That sound is quite usual on a WC setup. Takes a few seconds for the pump to build pressure and shift any air that's trapped in the system.
 
nikbear said:
I get some noise from the pump starting up,a very quiet 'gurgling' sound
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That's air and there shouldn't be any in the H50 as it's a sealed system.

Orange Peel said:
That sound is quite usual on a WC setup. Takes a few seconds for the pump to build pressure and shift any air that's trapped in the system.
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It's only usual in a poorly bled system. As you correctly point out, it means you have air trapped in the system somewhere. If you think about it, that air shouldn't be there. When the pump comes on it's just being pushed into a corner somewhere then when the pressure comes off the pump again it rises back to the highest point it can. It's needs to be eliminated form the loop as it's only going to be reducing efficiency otherwise.

It definitely shouldn't there be in the H50 which is factory bled out and solder sealed. It's very unlikely that that particular H50 is working optimally. The radiator probably has a cold top and a warm bottom which is another dead giveaway of a poorly bled system. Personally, I would return it.
 
Finally got my CPU delivered so I could fit my H50 properly with some AS5.

On bone stock auto settings, the CPU is running @ 2.83GHz (stock) and on 100% load I get about 55 degs, idle is around 44. Does this sound a little high?

My aim is get at least 3.6 out of the chip but I fear any more is going to gain ridiculous temps, but as I've never OC'd a 775 CPU before I've not tested anything yet as there's 1000 more confusing options than my old S939 system!

I have it configured as push/pull but as an exhaust in a PC-7FW case (see pic below) as I can't be bothered rotating the front 140mm fan.

h50enermax.jpg


(pic before my CPU arrived)
 
I've got my H50 cooling my i7 860 (stock speed) and it idles at about 28 degs, on full load it's about 50 degs.

Whereas on the stock cooler it use to idle about 25 degs whilst full load was 75 degs. So it seems the H50 isn't great when it's idle but much better when there is load.
 
Dup said:
On bone stock auto settings, the CPU is running @ 2.83GHz (stock) and on 100% load I get about 55 degs, idle is around 44. Does this sound a little high?
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That's about the Linpack temperature I got with Noctua NH-U12P... except idle temp was lot lower but core sensors can have stuck lowest reading. (now ~[email protected] and peak Linpack temp 10C higher)
As few reviews have shown small water isn't really better than high end heatsinks so that load temperature might really be about lowest you'll get. (doesn't AS5 need some curing?)
 
sonteq said:
I've got my H50 cooling my i7 860 (stock speed) and it idles at about 28 degs, on full load it's about 50 degs.

Whereas on the stock cooler it use to idle about 25 degs whilst full load was 75 degs. So it seems the H50 isn't great when it's idle but much better when there is load.
Click to expand...

To be honest idle temps dont really matter.
 
Dup said:
Finally got my CPU delivered so I could fit my H50 properly with some AS5.

On bone stock auto settings, the CPU is running @ 2.83GHz (stock) and on 100% load I get about 55 degs, idle is around 44. Does this sound a little high?

My aim is get at least 3.6 out of the chip but I fear any more is going to gain ridiculous temps, but as I've never OC'd a 775 CPU before I've not tested anything yet as there's 1000 more confusing options than my old S939 system!

I have it configured as push/pull but as an exhaust in a PC-7FW case (see pic below) as I can't be bothered rotating the front 140mm fan.


(pic before my CPU arrived)
Click to expand...


i get about 5 degrees lower on my sunbeam air cooler, i was considering getting 1 of these, dont know if i will bother now...thanks for the info
 
Pish said:
i get about 5 degrees lower on my sunbeam air cooler, i was considering getting 1 of these, dont know if i will bother now...thanks for the info
Click to expand...

The system has been turned on about 8 hours max so the thermal compound will need to cure, I also fear I have used a little too much. I will be attempting an overclock this weekend and will see what the the highest temp really is. I measured these temps with coretemp and did so just to make sure everything was seated correctly before setting up the OS etc.

I have a 3.6 GHz Q6600 system with a push/pull config Noctua cooler and this is showing about the same temps. The two cost the same so for me it's no difference as it was't a rebuild system it was a completely new one.

I'm sure it will handle a higher clock without pushing the temps much higher. The fans don't seem to be moving warm air compared to the Q6600 system so maybe the TIM needs to cure a bit. I will get a basic manual clock in place then prime it overnight and see how it looks afterwards. Can anyone reccomend an ideal temp monitoring program (standalone rather than install if possible)?
 
iv completed my build last month but only managed around 2 weeks to play with it and so i have used this week to test out software at default settings on on my i7 920 which i understand wont reach high dizzy o/clocks due to the 12gb memory but id me happy with 3.4-3.6 with turbo:D

my temps using the h50 and 2 apache in my haf case has resulted in a cpu temp of 28-29c idle (cores in mid 30's) and under prime 95 my cpu temps are Hightest=46c (cores in the Mid 60c).

i used the line method (writing to writing) as shown on artic silver website and thermal coumpound i use is the TIM Consultants 0098 which has high visciousity level.

question is as Dup said above is this sounding okay althought he didint mean an i7 cpu or should i remount and try again and what amount of paste is really needed someone must have a picture and i dont mean aout a grain of rice as rice is all sorts of sizes as well a peas are as people also say:D

i cant spread it as its too thick but if im told to remount i may just try mx2 which i have as backup but cant really see it beating tim consultants as mx2 lost out to it 3 times in shootouts...................

any advice welcome...


kind regards

HornyRhino"
 
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