De-lidded 3770k!!

Ouch, what happened? I have plenty of time to be very delicate with it, my razor blades can take idividual layers off your fingers, should be nice and sharp. Guess I will have to try and soften up the glue with a hairdryer though.

I think it will be very hard to sell a de-lidded one in a few years - this is what is putting me off, not really worried about damaging it. Seen some really brutal jobs of it on youtube lol.
 
BrianB said:
Ouch, what happened? I have plenty of time to be very delicate with it, my razor blades can take idividual layers off your fingers, should be nice and sharp. Guess I will have to try and soften up the glue with a hairdryer though.

I think it will be very hard to sell a de-lidded one in a few years - this is what is putting me off, not really worried about damaging it. Seen some really brutal jobs of it on youtube lol.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't use a hairdryer, in my experience with glues, sealants and silicones there better cold, and using a new blade its easy.

And as for selling, theres plenty of sealants which can withstand the heat so sticking it back on is not a problem
 
Last edited:
BrianB said:
Did you mean conductive? According to the AS5 website AS5 is actually really non conductive. This shocked me to learn since it nearly killed my X800 PRO. :p

http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm It's on there.

Question: Is it hard to break through at first? I was thinking of doing this with a safety razor blade. My feather blades are very sharp, is it like cutting through metal or is it a bit softer?
Click to expand...

Not worth the risk.

Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.
Click to expand...
 
If you are delidding, it is a no brainer to use the naked option.

A bolt through cooler attachment is by far the best where you can apply pressure incrementally in small stages. Balancing 800g of copper on a small die is exciting and could lead to chipping a corner from the die.

A small grain of rice was the Athlon thoroughbred die amount of AS3, rather than the pea size for an IHS. Later versions of TIM would be similar.

The best solution would be to use a copper shim with a rectangular cutout for the die. The shim is the same thickness as the die and supports the cooler.
 
V F said:
What was done on the old Athlon's? you're talking about the ones with the 4 round spongy pads right? I thought they were already nekkid. The core was so tiny as it was.
Click to expand...

I think he was referring to the Athlon64/Opteron 165 days, only it's even trickier as you have capacitors around the die area that can be very easily damaged if not careful.

Delta12 said:
As for lapping surely a risk free process to do whilst the lid is off

Surprised no ones doing it at the same time
Click to expand...

Many heatsink manufacturers nowadays advise against lapping the IHS/heatsink, because by design they are concaved/convexed where it needs to be so lapping doesn't necessary yield good results anymore. Of course I have not lapped a CPU since Q6600 so I can't really verify.


For those who don't mind, there's always the option to epoxy the IHS back to the PCB should you want to for warranty purposes, if you were careful there should be very little indication of IHS removal. There are guys on the xtreme system forum who have done this.
 
Cost saving most likely. Reduced TDP means cheapo TIM will suffice at stock frequency so why solder?

liquid pro/ultra yields the best results but it will make a mess of your IHS/heatsink.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom