De-lidded 3770k!!

VID is 1.2 @ 5ghz using offset, stock VID is 0.936
board is Asus p8Z77-V Deluxe
yes i have coretemp, not installed though

thx
my core v is 1.44 and VID is 1.33, vdroop thing is set to auto(not that familiar with my board yet or for pushing big clocks)
cant use offset on my board.
 
I keep seeing this around, seems legit
2a0ap3d.jpg

thx

so from that 1.55v for a kamikazee run,
pll, know where that is on my board
imc/vccsa on mine is called io
vccio, know idea!!
 
I'll get some of the liquid metal (ultra probably though?) under the lid and maybe some gc extreme for the heat sink


Exactly what i have done, gotta watch the gc though, find it like treacle, got to treat it like a bottle of wine and twist before you pull away otherwise it goes everywhere!! Good job its non conductive :eek:

And the liquid metal really is like liquid metal, it runs!
 
As jokester has explained, the maximum VID a chip could leave the factory with is 1.52, because as some point in the design they had to specify the format for saving the VID to the chip and settled on 0.7 to 1.52 or whatever. I'd bet a lot of money though that the highest VID they actually end up putting in to the chips is way less than that (say 1.15, 1.2, something like that).

The stock clock speed and voltage is chosen to last a long time and have a vanishingly low error rate. Increase the volts = decrease the life of the product. There's no going around that.

As for a "max safe voltage", nobody can answer that, it probably depends on how long you want to keep the chip. Next time, a better question for an intel engineer might be "if I want to run my chip for 4 years 24/7, what's the max voltage I should use to have a 95% chance of not killing it?".


nope, my vid's 1.33@stock settings
 
Sounds good, glad it comes with the brush lol. Might try it out :D just on the die though.

i just used the spreader that comes with the Gelid just to make it into a line, careful when you squeeze the syringe!! i ended up with a malteaser sized blob!! and its not the easiest to get off as it runs:eek:
 
nice one B, your a brave man after the first attempt.;) did you notice a gap in the sealant, bottom/middle, some threads are saying there is one which would make life easier.
 
Hello everyone,
it is my first post here and this thread is the reason I signed up on this great forum.
I bought an ivy I7 3770k in the summer and couple of weeks ago i decided to de-lid it as the temps were too high. I reckon I didn't spent too much time reading all threads available around about de-lidding, just watched 3 videos and i thought it will be a piece of cake.
I used a classic razor blade, that old fashioned type of, which is flexible. It proved to be difficult and in the end i managed to remove the ihs but I nicked in various places the cpu's pcb. Surprinsigly the cpu works, not fully but it works. The only problem I discovered so far is that channel A of the memory, the first 2 dimm's near de socket cannot be used. so i can't run in dual channel and i can't use the first two dimms at all, the motherboard always hangs with an error code displayed on the 2 digits display if I stick any memory module into those first 2 dimms. The 3-rd and the 40-th dimm's are ok. I haven't tried yet the integrated graphics, i have no clue if that particular area got damaged too or not, as i don;t have a hdmi cable nor a monitor with hdmi input. I'll buy an hdmi-dvi adapter and try the integrated graphics too in the next days.
If needed I can attach some pictures, I did my best to catch the nicks in detail but I think a far better macro objective was needed. I don't think it is any way to repair those traces, they're so thin, barely seen, maybe under some Leica microscope ( I worked with that in a cell phones plant). I was wondering about using some green pcb paint to cover the nicks/scratches then find some black rubberlike silicone sealant or epoxy and reseal the lid and finally send it back to RMA. Maybe those who'll open it later somewhere in some intel facility will understand that for a high end 3770k cpu we deserve some decent thermal paste or some indium soldering. After all the production costs for one 3770k are the same as for the cheapest Celeron they produce, what's the big difference for a drop of higher quality TIM? It's crap as I spent one month income for such a cpu and I know it was my mistake to try and open it but...I was not comfortable at all with temps around 70C all day long. Yes I was using the lousy cooler they provided along with the cpu in the box.
So where (in Europe) could I find some black sealant like Nickolp1974 linked here, apart from Amazon.
I'm from north western Romania.
cheers.

Hi negura, you could try the auction site or maybe a autopart center could help
 
I've decided I'm going to do this, going to try fishing line I think

Did you rebond the IHS back to the CPU or just let the motherboard mount hold it in place?

Let us know how you get on, and if it does not work and you decide on a blade make sure its a new one, the sharper the better as it requires less force and lessons the risk of damage, good luck ;)
 
This maybe??


Without playing games of carbon fiber super strands, etc., the thinest strong wire you can buy is music wire, also called spring steel wire. It is very hard - it will damage most diagonal wire cutters - and can be bought down to hair thin. Anchor wire is a source for longer amounts, K&S Engineering sells 3' pieces in their hobby metals displays.


Edit. After thinking about wire/line method in theory sounds promising but there may be a problem, to make it work the pcb would have to be held in a diamond orientation so that you could try and cut through the corner which would give the least resistance but in doing so may damage the corner of the pcb
 
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Why don't people use plastic shims? If you sanded the edge of a bit of thin plastic until it was as sharp as a blade that would almost certainly do the trick and would probably be unable to scratch the PCB.

Have seen a vid of a guy using a credit card to de-lid, cant find it for link.
 
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