DIY ensuite bathroom replacement - build log

Some of those waste pipes look like ones I found in my bathroom, so many running uphill and with really poor joints under the floor. No need as the pipe run could have been done in one, just sheer laziness.

For the floor I'd recommend this. Joints don't need to land on a joist, and gives a very solid floor. Used it for my bathroom floor and wouldnt go back to ply.
 
Orifice said:
Some of those waste pipes look like ones I found in my bathroom, so many running uphill and with really poor joints under the floor. No need as the pipe run could have been done in one, just sheer laziness.

For the floor I'd recommend this. Joints don't need to land on a joist, and gives a very solid floor. Used it for my bathroom floor and wouldnt go back to ply.
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I had no idea this was a structural sub floor material, I thought it was a strong tile backer. Interesting, I'll take a look thanks.
 
Just remember that your stud wallvused to sit on top of some supported timber and now you've cut off one side so I'd get some noggins into that stud wall.

Yes I'd clip all the pipework (both the wastes, hot/cold and heating.

Get yourself some of these if you want to make it easier than making timbers for it.


For insulation if its a heated room below then it's not really needed. I would add it for sound insulation more than anything else.


I also wouldn't bother with electrical floor heating, it's expensive to run.
 
Today's work was to double check the shower tray fitting - I moved the joist over slightly as it was just floating on an RSJ (!) but it still wouldn't quite work with backer board behind it, so I'm going to have to bring the board down to the tray otherwise the joist will just be in the way of the trap. Once the tray was lined up, I marked centres for the valve and rain head.

3VgovHsh.jpeg


Also spent a few hours reinforcing the floor with 2x4, focused around the tray area. It's made a huge difference to the integrity of the floor; almost no wobble now so I'm confident that ply / no more ply + tile backer will be a good solid floor which combined with S2 adhesive, should prevent any tile or grout cracks.

Al1252ph.jpeg


Next big job is first fix plumbing, which I've been procrastinating over for far too long in true DIY fashion.

Buffman said:
Just remember that your stud wallvused to sit on top of some supported timber and now you've cut off one side so I'd get some noggins into that stud wall.

Yes I'd clip all the pipework (both the wastes, hot/cold and heating.

Get yourself some of these if you want to make it easier than making timbers for it.


For insulation if its a heated room below then it's not really needed. I would add it for sound insulation more than anything else.


I also wouldn't bother with electrical floor heating, it's expensive to run.
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This bathroom is directly above an unheated garage so although it will have XPS board, I'm definitely going to insulate between the joists as it's the last time to do so until the bathroom is next replaced in 15 (?!) years, so I might as well do it right now.

Electric UFH - this is just for warming the floor and drying up water spills, rather than being the primary source of heat for the room. It's very popular and having had it before, I wouldn't be without it in a bathroom. Cost to run is peanuts vs. the benefit, for me anyway.

Thanks for the thoughts so far.
 
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electric - are you getting a hybrid towel rail (personally heating is either on, or towels can be hung outside)

Do you have to anticipate where shower door/frame will anchor into ceiling/floor (never saw what the builders did at parents place, but need to anticipate you could put a fair amount of weight against tempered glass)
 
jpaul said:
electric - are you getting a hybrid towel rail (personally heating is either on, or towels can be hung outside)

Do you have to anticipate where shower door/frame will anchor into ceiling/floor (never saw what the builders did at parents place, but need to anticipate you could put a fair amount of weight against tempered glass)
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Sorry, missed this. I'm going for a traditional wet only towel rail, reason being we have a Tado system so I can control the rail individually anyway with a smart TRV.

Might end up regretting that, but the rail has been purchased.

With the shower door / frame, the answer is yes and I'm fitting an additional stud to screw into ok the stud wall side.

Tbh at this rate I might as well ply the entirety of the stud walls, given how much I need to screw into them!
 
Finally got a bit more done this weekend.

Main achievement was learning solder plumbing, incredibly without a single leak on my first attempt. I was utterly convinced there'd be water spraying everywhere. I'm a fan now - cheaper fittings, quicker than compression once you get the hang of it, more reliable.

Also

- Plumbed new 32mm waste run to stack for basin and leak tasted - aok
- Mounted recessed shower valve and elbow for shower head
- Framed niche
- More floor reinforcement
- Chased out bricks for towel rail pipes

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Finished the water supply and heating pipes first fix today. Just the shower drain to be done now, in terms of under the floor plumbing.

I've found my first mistake (that I'm aware of lol). I test fitted the shower head today to check it was high enough and realised that the LED light over the shower is positioned directly over where the shower head will be, casting an annoying shadow.

Not sure what to do but I'm currently minded to move it laterally and add another downlight (which requires buying another pack of 6!).

cYxNtAoh.jpeg


New pipes plumbed for towel rad and pipes all clipped and protected with plates when running across top of joists.

rSGHNE3h.jpeg


Need to get some pipe insulation (dirt cheap) tomorrow and will also put down loft-style insulation in the void.

Ready to trial fit the shower tray (on the 18mm structural ply) to get the waste positioned correctly:

QC8dj3Wh.jpeg
 
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Have you tried pushing the light back into the socket to see how the shadow looks then? It may not be as bad as you think. The reason it's so dramatic is that you are getting a strong reflection off the chrome showerhead from the light when it's dangling so close.
 
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radderfire said:
Have you tried pushing the light back into the socket to see how the shadow looks then? It may not be as bad as you think. The reason it's so dramatic is that you are getting a strong reflection off the chrome showerhead from the light when it's dangling so close.
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Thanks for this. It's made me "reflect" :o on things and I'm going to finish the room and see how it looks before deciding whether or not to change it.

It'll be easy to reconfigure the ceiling lights after the rest of the room is done.

Point of note: the top of the showerhead is black rather than chrome and I now see why (as well as cost saving).
 
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Participant said:
Finished the water supply and heating pipes first fix today. Just the shower drain to be done now, in terms of under the floor plumbing.

I've found my first mistake (that I'm aware of lol). I test fitted the shower head today to check it was high enough and realised that the LED light over the shower is positioned directly over where the shower head will be, casting an annoying shadow.

Not sure what to do but I'm currently minded to move it laterally and add another downlight (which requires buying another pack of 6!).

cYxNtAoh.jpeg


New pipes plumbed for towel rad and pipes all clipped and protected with plates when running across top of joists.

rSGHNE3h.jpeg


Need to get some pipe insulation (dirt cheap) tomorrow and will also put down loft-style insulation in the void.

Ready to trial fit the shower tray (on the 18mm structural ply) to get the waste positioned correctly:

QC8dj3Wh.jpeg
Click to expand...

I had something similar with my new bathroom, we just sent it and see how it was with all the downlighters in place and it's fine. The other three fill in the shadow.

 
Participant said:
Finally got a bit more done this weekend.

Main achievement was learning solder plumbing, incredibly without a single leak on my first attempt. I was utterly convinced there'd be water spraying everywhere. I'm a fan now - cheaper fittings, quicker than compression once you get the hang of it, more reliable.

Also

- Plumbed new 32mm waste run to stack for basin and leak tasted - aok
- Mounted recessed shower valve and elbow for shower head
- Framed niche
- More floor reinforcement
- Chased out bricks for towel rail pipes
Click to expand...

Which type of gas torch did you use for soldering?
 
Participant said:
I'm going to fit everything then see if it's still an issue. Moving just that one might look weird.
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I said earlier in the thread, lighting design, not silly symmetrical grids! :D

Light the areas that need light, not just everywhere.

Pointers:
- Don't light the top of the shower head :p
- Don't light the top of your head whilst seated at the pooper.
- Don't fill the space, you need less than you think

- Do light over the sink, but think about the light being Infront of you, rather than the top of your head. E.g. 200mm off the wall or use an adjustable spot.
Also use a light up mirror.
- Do have a fitting over the centre of the door as you walk in, circa 300mm off the wall and centred.

Do consider other options to supplement a few spots or ceiling LED strips. Like uplights behind bath, strips under wall hung units. LED strips in niches. Also consider separate switching for the above so you can use them as mood lighting or late night wee stops, so you don't blast yours eyes with bright spots.
 
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