Evo or Impreza?

gurdas said:
The STi will make you smile every time you start it up. Although hearing comments about the Evo is definitely worth considering. I may get a toy come December time as i'll have a bit more time in the country at that point..Sam, what are your thoughts between the VX/STi/Evo?

http://www.gurdas.co.uk/img/Scooby/scoob1.jpg[img]

Miss it:([/QUOTE]

I always assumed you were from the states (your profile location says so) lol. :o
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dessimpson said:
Just googled it. Don't think I could live with a close ratio gearbox and no soundproofing.

Always hankered after an STi 5 or 6 but always seem to end up in an EVO.
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Close ratio box means you can just about eak out 70mph in 5th before touching boost.

There is sound proofing, it's reduced... the difference isn't actually that massive... it's noticeable, but you'd be surprised how quiet an R/RA is... I was expecting it to be quite a bit noisier.
 
Sam said:
I’ve just spend £550 and had a remap / fuel pump / 3 port boost solenoid and that should be making between 370 and 380 BHP, to get that on an impreza you have to spend double that easily ...

Sam
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Remind me how much power I have and what I've done to mine? ;)
 
EddScott said:
With regards to the "classics"

RA would be at the end of either WRX Type RA or STI Type RA.

The WRX Type RA had the turbo of the STI (or similar of that year) and the low ratio gearbox of the STI of that year. It also has ABS.

The STI Type RA would have DCCD but no ABS. Yes there are some internal differences but none that would really make the WRX Type RA really any slower.

You won't have a classic STI Type RA with DCCD and ABS.


In the Newages, the RA (or RA-R for uber hardcore) denotes a more hardcore STI. You don't get newage WRX Type RAs.

Theres also the S range. The S201 being the classic based on an STI Type RA WRC edition but with a horrific bodykit. The S202 is the bugeye and considered particularly good but still hardcore. The S204 is a bit calmer (from what I've read of others who have driven it) but has probably the most awesome seats ever fitted to an Impreza as standard.

The bugeye WRX also got some dodgy styling mods from Porsche which are quite rare but a bit ugly. :)
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Thanks for the explanation...

Personally I would always choose DCCD over ABS.

Although to be fair, I'm not too familiar with scoob-specific ABS... but with my experience of it on quite a few other cars... it always over-compensated. I've not found a car yet where I'm worse than the ABS. Although to be fair, the Jag would have been a close call with the lack of feeling through the pedal.

Plus with the DCCD... being able to choose to send that little bit of extra power to the rear wheels really makes a difference, even if it is 'only' a 5% difference to the standard car...



The diffs you have in there also make a difference. Which ones come with LSDs front and rear?

The one I have has jap-quaife-equivalent LSDs front and rear... I'm curious if that's standard on any/all models or not... I thought the front LSD was unusual, but my knowledge about the various models and working of the scoob is clearly still quite lacking...
 
EddScott said:
If the two cars have the same turbo then the maximum power is largely governed by how much pressure the turbo can cope with - with forged internals that pressure can be sustained longer before failure. But we are talking small quick spool turbos like the VF28/29/30.

I had a UK Turbo that was about 240HP on an ECUTEK map - they might tell you 270 when it's first mapped but with your credit card in hand they'll tell you anything :) My MY00 Type RA was a WRC edition (blue dash bits and the blue seude seats which are just immense. That had a VF29 and put out 300+ and felt proper quick. Sinking feeling in the stomach quick which the UK car just never did.

Same as this.

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1633834.htm

If this owner could knock a grand off I'd possibly go in for another go with the RA. I think I sold too quickly TBH.
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Lol at 'the very first one'... should we spoil his fun and let him know that in Japan 0000 is actually 0013? :p

Surely with forged internals, it's not just that the pressure could be sustained for longer, but could also handle a greater pressure in the first place?

But I guess that depends on exactly what the internals are and I have no idea about the actualy differences in internals between the WRX and STI... as you suggest, they sound minimal.
 
Not bad... stock internals?

I'm paranoid about pushing stock that far with my recent big-end failure while still being quite close to stock.

Boxer engine doesn't like hard cornering and high rpm :(

Cosworth sump baffle and oil cooler with the new build!


EDIT: What air-filter btw? I thought the standard intake couldn't really be improved upon... certainly not by a cone/shroom filter... Cold air intake or in the engine bay?
 
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Yup stock internals, they can apparently take 450 happily these days. The bugeye and blobeye STi models were built to last!

Yes, track work requires a sump baffle! I've got an oil cooler on mine too.
 
crinkleshoes said:
Lol at 'the very first one'... should we spoil his fun and let him know that in Japan 0000 is actually 0013? :p

Surely with forged internals, it's not just that the pressure could be sustained for longer, but could also handle a greater pressure in the first place?

But I guess that depends on exactly what the internals are and I have no idea about the actualy differences in internals between the WRX and STI... as you suggest, they sound minimal.
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Really? I didn't know that about the numbers. Can't remember what number mine was.

You are correct really. Stronger internals will mean you can run higher boost - the reason why it's done in the first place I suppose. However, if it's stock STI and stock WRX internals I doubt the difference in boost pressure on the same turbo would be that different.

You could then look at bigger turbos etc but it would seem from reading the experience of others once you put on big big turbos then the OE piston STI or WRX won't last too long. Although you'll probably spit out a cog or two from the gearbox before the engine goes. You could go 6 speed in the classic but then you need more power to offset the weight increase.


Don't know what your budget is but theres a lad selling a crystal grey UK 05 STI on SNet. Looks really nice and you get DCCD-A. I'm sure a deal could be done there.

Personally, if you were going to go mad with mods you may as well buy a JDM WRX. V4 onwards. You get the rev counter in the middle ala STI and the JDM heater controls which are much nicer. The rest of it over time you're going to upgrade so why bother buying the more expensive STI in the first place. IMO, only get the STI if you intend to keep it relatively close to stock (it will be worth more in the future)
 
been having a think and after totalling insurance, running costs and cost aside to find one in the UK (travelling costs etc).

I will be spending £7k absolute max and i am only interested in EVO V's or IV's (5's & 6's). The TME ones are £9000 - £10,000 so they are out of the question.

I still owuld consider an Impreza TYPE R, however i'd prefer an EVO over the two. Now then, i have seen a Type R Impreza for sale cheap with DCY and it has 3 months warranty and is about £5.5k.

DCY have an excellent reputation and are members of MLR & ScoobyNet.
 
crinkleshoes said:
EDIT: What air-filter btw? I thought the standard intake couldn't really be improved upon... certainly not by a cone/shroom filter... Cold air intake or in the engine bay?
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Just seen this bit.

I run an RCM cone filter with a custom made (by me) heat shield and massive cold air feed. Works very very well, but due to the size of the inlet, it does induce some surge on the VF35, which means it has to come on boost a bit softer, else it goes crazy.

I am in the future looking to swap the turbo to a similar size turbo, but one that doesn't suffer from the surge so that the car will be more responsive, as I don't want to go back to the standard intake box, it's too quiet ;)
 
ScoobyDoo69 said:
Just seen this bit.

I run an RCM cone filter with a custom made (by me) heat shield and massive cold air feed. Works very very well, but due to the size of the inlet, it does induce some surge on the VF35, which means it has to come on boost a bit softer, else it goes crazy.

I am in the future looking to swap the turbo to a similar size turbo, but one that doesn't suffer from the surge so that the car will be more responsive, as I don't want to go back to the standard intake box, it's too quiet ;)
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Like the sound of that... may have a look at something similar for mine.

I really like the sound of a BOV (not the over-exuberant ones that barry-boys seem to locate... but something reasonable). But don't want the downsides, would rather keep it re-circulating.

The BPV makes the same noise, but with the intake tract... it's almost always in-audible. So a cone + CIA might work well for me :)
 
shep_no_platinum said:
been having a think and after totalling insurance, running costs and cost aside to find one in the UK (travelling costs etc).

I will be spending £7k absolute max and i am only interested in EVO V's or IV's (5's & 6's). The TME ones are £9000 - £10,000 so they are out of the question.

I still owuld consider an Impreza TYPE R, however i'd prefer an EVO over the two. Now then, i have seen a Type R Impreza for sale cheap with DCY and it has 3 months warranty and is about £5.5k.

DCY have an excellent reputation and are members of MLR & ScoobyNet.
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Go and test drive a type r and an evo 5/6 then make your choice. If you're still not 100% convinced by either then you must test drive both before making the decision. Remember that both cars are going to cost a fair amount of cash to keep on the road so don't just base your decision on other people's opinions...(but make sure you buy the type r :p )
 
The EVO 5 and 6 are pretty much both the same to drive. Except for some of the special edition 6's. RS2, RSX, Extreme etc. Don't go for an RS. Everyone will say it's a better drivers car as it has a mechanical rear diff but they come with no ABS, crap brakes, crap wheels, crap seats, wind up windows etc. To get the AYC to activate on the public roads you really have to be pushing the car beyond safe speeds.

The only real differences between the two are the front bumper and the rear spoiler. All else is slight mechanical improvements.
The 5 does have a harder wearing interior.

You're right about DCY though. They do have a good reputation and that's quite a rare thing in the Jap import scene. Prices in Japan are quite high at the minute though
 
Subaru "classics" had different internals and blocks to the "new age" 2ltr cars, which have stronger rods (big plus side for the new age cars) hence why they can run 400+bhp all day when well maintained ;)

New age JDM cars (twin scroll, THE best petrol engine subaru have produced to date :D) are different again to the UK 2ltr engines, with revised cranks (drilled/nitrided for better oil flow/strength), quick rack steering, rear wash wipe and lots of other little goodies over UK cars that make them a more desirable car to own (though people will try to put you off saying they rev their nuts off on the motorway at 70), 3k rpm isnt too bad tbh.

You also have some differences with the diffs, for instance, it was only the classic STI type RA that actually had a helical/Suretrac type front diff standard, it was open on virtually all the other classics, on 2003 onward STI's (especially JDM's) it was an AP suretrac type, the 2005 changed back to helical, these new age STI's also run with a R180 plated rear diff, same as the later version 4-6 STI type R/RA's (maybe also the standard classic 4-6 sti, would need to have a look).

Tuning wise, your average UK 2ltr is capable of around 350bhp on its standard turbo with a remap/exhaust/fuelpump upgrade, your JDM will be a little higher (twin scroll) on average with more torque (370-400lbs) if you get a good mapper :D

Then your going to have to choose a spec, its fairly easy with an Evo, GSR or RS, the RS being more "hard core", with the MY03 onwards STI's you have (say 2003-2004 cars including the WR1 and PPP cars), your bog standard UK 265ps car, your PPP'd 305ps car, your 320ps (PPP) WR1 (note it comes with A-DCCD which was only available to the Solberg edition which the WR1 is based upon), then you have your JDM versions, the KL or "poverty spec", jap import, doesnt have A-DCCD so its best avoided, the GL which does have the A-DCCD, the Spec C (which all the later MY cars from 2005 based the geometry/wheelbase setup on) which is the lightweight and quickest version, in 3 versions between these dates, the 16 inch motorsport (just dccd, no auto mode and depletes several other parts like engine oil coolers, 16 inch steel wheels,hence the 16 inch version and not very decent throw away justy type interior,) its basically a car designed for stripping down, the 17 inch version with the really nice BBS wheels (also available on the drivers pack for the GL), no electric anything/central locking etc but has all the goodies like oil coolers (front mounted type), and the Limited verision which didnt have the BBS wheels :( but had a ncie black interior, passenger sun visor and electrics/central locking.

There are lots to choose from, some are a lot rarer than others and you have to know what your looking for, but great cars, whooped butt against the evo 9 on a photo shoot for evo mag greece back in 2005 when the "9" had just come out ;) and lots of good advice from the likes of Edd and scooby there too :D

Tony:)
 
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