Gamers, What's Your Audio Set Up?

For stereo I have the USB from my PC hooked up to
Meridian 818v3 DAC, streamer, digital pre amp which I also use to stream Tidal.
My main speakers for stereo are Meridian DSP 8000XE
I also run a Naim Solstice turntable.

For surround I run the hdmi from the pc to
Meridian UHD722 Hdmi processor then into a Meridian G65 processor.
Front speakers of this set up are the DSP 8000XE via the 818v3
Centre speaker is Meridian DSP 5200SE HC, rears are Meridian DSP 5200SE.
With Meridian DSW sub.

Headphones I use the 818v3
into Meridian prime headphone amp with prime psu
Then either Byerdynamic T1 for gaming PC stuff or Focal Utopia for serious listening.
Solid setup. How do you find the T1? What gen?
I've managed to bag a T1.gen2 which I'm really liking for gaming. Some say near hd800 levels for a fraction of the price. Personally, I've no idea as I've never tried them.
 
I have two audio setups for each of my pc's. I have other Pc's but they are tinkering projects or stuff from years ago I kept.

So the first is (although it has been packed away as I will be moving soon)

Bowers & Wilkins Diamond D802 D2 speakers, Burmester 001 Cd/dac, Burmester 911 power amp Mk3 and Nordost Valhalla cabling.

And my other PC is hooked up to a Marantz HD-Amp1 int amp, Q acoustics 3020i and Chord speaker cable.

For headphones I use a AKG K712 and Epos H6pro.

@8 Pack I think we have had a conversation about our setups a few years ago.
 
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For stereo I have the USB from my PC hooked up to

Do you ever use any mains conditioning on your PC? I use a Seasonic Prime's on my PC's and those PSU's don't filter all the interference from the mains.

Second point to this that's especially relevant to you. Can the mains quality effect overlocking, especially if your pushing the computer to absolute limit? It also might explain why you can't sometimes re-create a previous overclock, as if that computer is on the edge of working, then on another occasion a slight decrease in mains quality could make the computer crash with same settings. If this was the case, should you run something like PS Audio's power regeneration at these overclocking competitions?
 
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Solid setup. How do you find the T1? What gen?
I've managed to bag a T1.gen2 which I'm really liking for gaming. Some say near hd800 levels for a fraction of the price. Personally, I've no idea as I've never tried them.

How are you finding the T1’s? There’s a gen 2 pair popped up near me and I’m very tempted.
 
Apart from the reason you've already mentioned I think the professional gamers tend to use what they're sponsors are; hence lots of Corsair, Logitech headsets etc. And some hate the elevated treble.

There are definitely streamers/influencers that used/use them. Ninja used the DT990 Pro for years.
 
I'd love to try one and compare it to logitech G Pro X. Logitech G Pro X gives huge advantage in fps games due to range of footsteps you can hear. I've tried all sorts of gaming headsets and nothing compare to G Pro X in this matter. Only good old combo which was banned on tournaments back in days - fatal1ty headset + fatal1ty soundcard.
 
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Topping E30 DAC
JDS Labs Atom Amp
Sennheiser HD 560S headphones

The HD 560S are probably the best competitive gaming headphones at any price point due to the imaging and directionality accuracy for pinpointing footsteps.
 
I'd love to try one and compare it to logitech G Pro X. Logitech G Pro X gives huge advantage in fps games due to range of footsteps you can hear. I've tried all sorts of gaming headsets and nothing compare to G Pro X in this matter. Only good old combo which was banned on tournaments back in days - fatal1ty headset + fatal1ty soundcard.

Really with the Beyer DT990s you need an AMP and maybe a DAC/AMP combo depending on the source. This will obviously add to the cost vs. the Logitech G Pro X which are likely to be less fussy when pugged into something, or have their own USB soundcard included.

Sound quality is obviously subjective and trying these in advance is impossible. Whilst gaming headsets can be fine (I'd say easier and more convenient), headphones and a DAC/AMP combo is generally better sound quality. Particularly when it comes to listening to music and other media other than gaming.

On a personal note I now own 3 Beyers; DT990 Pro (250Ohm), DT770 Pro (250Ohm) & TYGR 300R. And I think I prefer the other two over the 990's now. The 990's are fantastic but the DT770s have something unique about them and better bass. The TYGRs are smoother and more suited for gaming (plus easier to drive). One of the things that is great about the Beyers is replacing parts. For only £15 last year I replaced the pads on the DT 990s with new Beyer pads.

Personally I'd like to try the Sennheiser HD 560s although it's hard to justify buying more headphones and I sense there isn't going to be much in it vs. the AKG K712 and the aforementioned TYGRs (from a non-competitive gaming perspective).
 
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A set of 17 year Sennheiser HD 515's with torn cloth, no padding in the ear pads and chipped plastic. Aesthetically not in great shape but audio is still rock solid although I'm looking at replacing them with a set of Sony WH-1000XM5 in the not to distant future. I'm running them off an external USB sound card from Creative, this was a carry over from my last system which had broken onboard audio.
 
A set of 17 year Sennheiser HD 515's with torn cloth, no padding in the ear pads and chipped plastic. Aesthetically not in great shape but audio is still rock solid although I'm looking at replacing them with a set of Sony WH-1000XM5 in the not to distant future. I'm running them off an external USB sound card from Creative, this was a carry over from my last system which had broken onboard audio.

 
I have creative t-20 for desktop use, but also use a "Y" splitter headphone adapter so it's also plugged into a Tangent 'ampster' class D amp powering a pair of tannoy M1 bookshelf speakers and a paradigm PDR-10 active sub. For TV /music.
I've also plugged the TV headphone out into the amp so I can use the TV speakers just on thier own or boost it up with the amp/sub/bookshelves if I want to, as my TV can output from its own speakers and also 'headphones' at the same time, except it's not headphones, it's the amp powering the tannoys and the sub.
 
Just taken delivery of these DROP + EPOS PC38x yesterday. Even though I still want to try the Sennheiser HD 560S somewhat the last two times I've bought other headphones instead. As a gamer first these really appealed to me.

Initial thoughts are good. Very good at squeezing enough juice from either a Xbox or DualSense controller and don't really benefit hugely from a DAC/AMP. Makes them incredibly versatile. Have also tried them with my Fiio K5 Pro, SoundblasterX G6 and smaller Soundblaster PLAY! 4. Comfort is good although I've never had a headphone squeeze my head as much as these. I've left them on a yoga block overnight to try and lessen that to some degree.

But overall very happy. Downsizing my small collection of headphones so that I just have these to pair with the AKG K712 Pro, Berydynamic DT 770 Pro (250 Ohm) and TYGR 300R. All are different enough to have their strengths and weaknesses with some overlap (i.e. the K712 and TYGR's being great for competitive gaming).

Just as an aside when looking into replacement parts for the Sennheiser HD 560S I came across a support page that referenced a 'HD 560 II' in the small description. Is that a thing? I know the HD 660S have recently got a S2 model so it's very believable the HD 560S might get a '2' release too. But equally it could just be a typo.

DWgnLp2l.jpg
 
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