I've rebooked some more lessons starting next week. I had 5 at the end of last summer and they worked a treat. I've just started pulling the driver now when I "go for it" so I want him to have a look at what I can do to get a bit more distance and not hook it. It's probably in the set up.
That's something I worked on last year, now I get a nice draw fairly consistently. What I had to do (what worked for me) wasn't trying to make the arms go faster but rotate my hips faster using the ground force of burying my right toe (right handed golfer) into the floor. Allowed me to clear my hips and get through the ball better.
quick question guys..
I originally had my 3 cobra snakebite wedges (50, 54, 58) to trade against my new irons..I decided against this now, and collected them from AM today.
now, they are brand new, I mean literally brand new. what do I do? hold onto them incase the wedges coming with my taylormades anre no good? or sell them on?
im only concern is they are standard length and im usually fitted for 1" longer, does that matter so much on wedges, or am I better waiting and seeing how I get on with the TM and if not, then get some custom wedges?
True enough, swing weight is all about having a specific balance point to what you feel is best to you. Should really be done as part of the fitting process.Yeah, exactly mate.
My only concern is lengthening the shafts..my fitter said doing that can “upset club balance “, if that’s even true?.
True enough, swing weight is all about having a specific balance point to what you feel is best to you. Should really be done as part of the fitting process.
If you lengthen the club, it normally means there would be a bit more weight near the grip and the club head would probably feel slightly lighter than normal.
A way to think of it is, if you balance a club on your finger, so its horizontal and get it to balance, if you make the end longer, that centre points will move slightly, so you'll get more weight at one side than the other.
If you get this done at fitting, for new clubs, the factory would add some lead-adhesive inside the bottom of the shaft to counter-balance the weight in the head, albeit very slightly - to balance them back out.
When you buy clubs, eg. Titleist T150's: on their website, they will specify their swing weight D0 for example.
I have this identical issue!!I've got a small gapping issue. My PW is 43.5 degrees and my Vokeys start at 50 which is where the issue is. A nice smooth PW is 120 yards and a full 50 is 95 yards if I push it. I don't like the idea of always have to take some off the PW to fill the gap as that usually leads to issues. My irons are 3 years old so not really looking to change them any time soon.
I haven't really got a gap in my clubs to put another one in. What I could do is replace the PW with a 46 degree Vokey but then that leaves a 8 degree gap to my 9 iron.I have this identical issue!!
I feel like I need a club for that 105-110 distance, but do I really? Like really really need it?
I have 13 clubs in the bag, perhaps I should 2 of my vokeys and buy another club.
My current wedges are 60, 54, 50, then 43.5' PW
I *could* go:
60/56/52/48/PW - but thats a lot of ££ to fix a single gap where I usually pull off the 105 yard shot with my wedge, but then again it is 3 new lovely clubs.
I've got a small gapping issue. My PW is 43.5 degrees and my Vokeys start at 50 which is where the issue is. A nice smooth PW is 120 yards and a full 50 is 95 yards if I push it. I don't like the idea of always have to take some off the PW to fill the gap as that usually leads to issues. My irons are 3 years old so not really looking to change them any time soon.
Picked up a Cobra LTDx 3 wood a few weeks ago to try fill the gap between my driver and hybrid, and it's absolutely bang-on - only had a shot of it for the first time yesterday at the range. Had a gap of about 70 yards between them and the 3 wood has slotted in beautifully into the 240-250 yard range.