Help with adding water to my 650D

zoomee said:
For radiator fans - remember its about static pressure fellas. XS have an exhaustive review about 120mm 1850 GT's outpacing a shed load of 140mm fans on a 140 rad.

Not sure about the vipers as they can be very loud - I can't stand too much fan noise, so if I do get Akasa 140mm I will probably go for the Apaches as they have -4db in noise but only -10CFM. (Vipers are 110CFM @ 26db, Apaches are 90CFM @ 22db).....

Still not sure - My 1450RPM GT's were just about bearable noise wise so I might just stick with them on a couple of 120>140 brackets. 280 rads are defo the way forward though as they seriously outpace the 240 rads and come very close to 120.3 cooling levels, oh and they are nowhere near as restrictive as the 240's either.
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Fan controller to keep the vipers under control noise wise - when benching turn up, normal use turn down???? I realise that fan choice at 140mm is severely limited. Static pressure is indeed what we seek, but finding a 140mm that provides high static, but reasonable noise is proving verry difficult.Think I will start with the vipers with my fan controller and see how the noise/performance ratio works - I too do not desire high fan noise as this defeats to a certain extent the benefit of watercooling in the first place.

Lets see how we go.

Mark
 
EllisDJ said:
I see the temps for the koolance 280 looked great at high rpm but another chart I can't find now said the flow rate wasn't that great which out me off.

Can't find any koolance in stock anywhere?
Can you help / advise?
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I cant post competitor links in here for obvious reasons, but google is your friend - the koolance is in stock and available. I will see if I can get back to you later with a link or two regarding the flow performance etc of the koolance, but I can tell you that it is sold as a high flow radiator - whether this is 100% correct or not I cannot say.Be back on this later.

Mark
 
Surely running a 240 with 2x 120 apaches is going to provide better results (in terms of noise) than running 2x 140 apaches on a 280, as you'd need to run the 140s a lot faster to achieve the same static pressure?

I'm considering the 240 vs 280 argument here, and it doesn't seem worth the hassle of running fans at higher rpms just for 1-2C.

I'm looking to build a water system in my 650D, so this thread has been a great help :)
 
One thing I've learned is never to trust the manufacturers specs.

E.g. the 140mm Akasa Viper claims 110CFM at 1600rpm, but I haven't seen any proof of it in testing.
 
EllisDJ said:
The koolance is in my new basket mate , don't let me down ;)
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Well what can i say - if I have let you down, I have let me down too!!!!
Sure this will work out fine - just dont expect miracles.If we get between 1-2 degrees better,every little helps.We may even see 3 degrees diff - who knows,suck it and see Lol.

My bits should arrive by wed - so another re build in the offing:eek:
Lets see how we go - have faith my man.

Mark
 
What fans tipes???

I have found a lamptron controller at a good price but is useless with the akasa fans as they are 4 pin.
The akasa controller is the same price?
 
EllisDJ said:
What fans tipes???

I have found a lamptron controller at a good price but is useless with the akasa fans as they are 4 pin.
The akasa controller is the same price?
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At the moment - still going with the vipers with fan controller, but I am confused now because o cers description heading says 3/4 pin, but the actual spec lower down only mentions 4 pin - will check on manufacturers site to make sure. I cant imagine they would only be 4 pin, but even if they are we should still be able to connect to 3 pin one way or another.

Going off to check.

Mark
 
EllisDJ said:
Someone has snapped up my 280 koolance what a bugga!!
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Probably me Lol(sorry) ordered at the weekend. Regarding the fans - I am annoyed now as the akasa fans are deffo pwn 4 pin only - thought they might have converters in the box, but apparently not.Ocers headline description is wrong - I should have read the full spec where it mentions only 4 pin:mad:

However - all may not be lost, as I have found this on the net, have a read:

So, if you're trying to connect a 4-pin fan to some other power source connector, realize that the FAN's connector has Ground on Pin #1 (BLACK wire) and +12VDC on Pin #2 (normally Yellow). NOTE that this is NOT the same as the Yellow wire on a 3-pin fan's Pin #3, which is the speed pulse line. On a 4-pin fan's connector, the speed pulse line is still on Pin #3, BUT its color is normally Green.

To get a 3-pin OR a 4-pin fan to run, you need to provide Ground to connector Pin #1 and +12 VDC to Pin #2. Then it will always run at full speed. If you want it to run a slower speed, you still supply the +VDC signal to Pin #2, but it should be reduced to a lower voltage. That is what all speed controllers for 3-pin fans do, whether they are separate third-party devices or mobo pinouts. You do NOT need to connect anything to Pin #3. It takes the speed pulse signal (2 pulses per motor revolution) generated by the motor back TO the mobo so it can be monitored and display the motor speed. This signal is NOT necessary for the mobo to accomplish fan speed control - that is done based on actual temperature measurement separately, and accomplished by changing the fan +VDC voltage. However, mobo's do monitor that fan speed signal to be sure the fan is still turning.

A 4-pin fan NORMALLY receives +12 VDC on Pin #2 at all times, PLUS the special PWM signal on Pin #4 (normally a Blue wire). Within the fan there is a tiny controller chip that uses the PWM signal to control actual flow of current from the +12 VDC supply to the motor. The design is backwards compatible with 3-pin fan designs in two ways. First, the connector will fit on, connecting the first 3 pins to exactly the same signals in each case. Secondly, if the 4-pin fan receives NO PWM signal on Pin #4, it passes all the power available from Pin #2 to the motor. Now the power coming out of a 3-pin pinout on a mobo has the voltage on Pin #2 vary according to desired fan speed - it is NOT always +12 VDC. So a 4-pin fan plugged into a 3-pin mobo pinout WILL function and will change its speed.

Now, what about trying to connect a 3-pin OR a 4-pin fan to a separate fan speed controller. The controller output connector only has TWO lines - Ground and +VDC (varying from 0 to 12). It has NO PWM signal for Pin #4, and many controllers have no use for the speed pulse signal coming back from the fan on Pin #3. So to make this work you should be connecting controller Ground to fan Pin #1 (Black), and controller +VDC to fan Pin #2 (normally Yellow, but sometimes Red). Do not twist any other fan wires to anything else - leave them unconnected. Now, IF your fan controller actually does have a way to use the fan's pulse speed signal on Pin #3, then you should connect that one, too.

One small problem with these systems is the start-up situation. A +12 VDC fan motor needs a certain minimum voltage to start up - probably about 6 to 9 volts just briefly. When a mobo is doing the controlling, it is always set to provide full 12 VDC at start-up, and then drop it down a few seconds later as the actual measured temperature becomes available. BUT if you are using a less sophisticated fan controller unit pre-set to some low voltage, it may no be enough to start the fan. At start-up time you should briefly turn up each fan's speed (voltage) control to full, then reduce it to the desired setting.

What about feeding power to a fan directly from a 4-pin Molex power output from the PSU? Well, look back at that drawing of it. The Molex has +12 VDC on Pin #1 with the YELLOW wire, and Ground on Pins 2 and 3 (Black wires). Pin #4 with the RED wire does NOT have 12 volts - it has +5 VDC. So you must connect fan Pin #1 (Black Ground) to either of the Black wires of the Molex, and fan Pin #2 (Yellow or sometimes Red on 4-pin fans, and always Red on 3-pin fans) to the YELLOW wire of the Molex. NOTE that, if you connect a fan's Pin#2 by mistake to the Molex's RED wire, you are giving it only +5 VDC and it may not start up!

So looks like there is going to be some fiddling about to be done or find an alternative fan????

Mark
 
I'm gunna stick with 2 x scythe GT 1450's to start off with fellas with 140-120mm adapters.

If your testing finds some greatly awesome difference I'll then upgrade ;)

Whoever bought that koolance had better not get it before me - I ordered first! :p
 
Well it's one or the other akasa fans and controller or lamptron and other fans

Not sure what to do now about my top RAD back to the stealth gt 280 i think?
 
someone else has said that you can just connect the pwn to 3 pin and control via a fan controller - not sure if this is correct or will work, but I will just have to wait and see. Will let you know when all the kit has arrived.

Mark
 
I need help with this final decision.

Go with the 240 koolance rad with 2 scythe gts 1850 on a controller

Or go for the stealth gts 280 and 2 aero sharks on s controller
they seem a good option??

Help please!!!
 
Why not go with some Akasa Apaches on PWM, so they only ramp up when you push the system?

Should be quieter than running the GTs full pelt all the time / less hassle than a controller.

This is how I plan to do it. They also have good static pressure.
 
Personally I think I'll be going back to an Aquaero 5 LT controller, if I don't like the way my fan controller on the 650D works (just recieved the new fan controller from corsair today aswell!) - can't do with this twiddling knobs thing when the system needs (lol!)

Scythes are better than Apaches for rads. I changed 3 x Akasa Apaches on my previous 120.3 rad for 3 x Scythe GT 1450's and loved them to bits. Once throttled they were hardly audible with the PC literally a foot away from my ears @ 1krpm compared to full whack on the Apaches ;)

120mm fans (i.e. GT's/apaches) give much better static pressure than 140mm fans (they need much higher RPMS resulting in higher noise to give the same levels of SP)

Evidence found here: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums...Fan-Testing-on-a-HWlabs-SR1-Radiator-Round-7&
 
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Another big question

Can i have my front rad ie the phobia 200mm with the openings at the top, rather than at the bottom like it seems everyone else does?

Is there any problem with having the in and out at the top of the rad?
 
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