Help with adding water to my 650D

zoomee · 27 Nov 2011 at 00:44

- Yus it was me your thinking of. I can't help tinkering with my PC, and was slowly building up the parts again for watercooling tbh (got a DDC and XSPC res the other day for cheap elsewhere) as I just can't bear the noise of air cooling lol! - its doin my nut in sat here with my PC sounding the way it does!

Its true what they say - Once you've gone water, you can't go back! I was going to wait until I change my GPU's but sod it - might aswell start with the CPU - That Raystorm looks bloody gorgeous and is the new King of Hill by the reviews I've seen so far!

From what I've seen (reviews testing a Magickool 280 rad) - they perform very similar to 120.3's! - so I'm hoping the Koolance one will be closer to a 120.3 as they are supposed to be slightly better than the Magickool's. Think about it this way - more fins = more cooling area.

Just in a quandry over which fans to get - I cancelled my order for fans as above, whilst I research some more. 140mm fan make less noise that 120mm ones BUT static pressure is better on 120mm fans so not sure yet. Need to see how the 140mm Vipers pan out in reviews and stuff tbh.

tipes · 27 Nov 2011 at 12:26

zoomee said:
- Yus it was me your thinking of. I can't help tinkering with my PC, and was slowly building up the parts again for watercooling tbh (got a DDC and XSPC res the other day for cheap elsewhere) as I just can't bear the noise of air cooling lol! - its doin my nut in sat here with my PC sounding the way it does!

Its true what they say - Once you've gone water, you can't go back! I was going to wait until I change my GPU's but sod it - might aswell start with the CPU - That Raystorm looks bloody gorgeous and is the new King of Hill by the reviews I've seen so far!

From what I've seen (reviews testing a Magickool 280 rad) - they perform very similar to 120.3's! - so I'm hoping the Koolance one will be closer to a 120.3 as they are supposed to be slightly better than the Magickool's. Think about it this way - more fins = more cooling area.

Just in a quandry over which fans to get - I cancelled my order for fans as above, whilst I research some more. 140mm fan make less noise that 120mm ones BUT static pressure is better on 120mm fans so not sure yet. Need to see how the 140mm Vipers pan out in reviews and stuff tbh.

Hi Zoomee,

Could not agree more - I don't want to give up my watercooling and go back to air for the same reasons, but as you said previously - keeping these 2600/2700K chips cool when overclocked anything above about 4.5 gig seems to be very difficult and verging on impossible. I was considering doing the same in my 650D, but with a koolance 280 in the roof - supposed to be a v good radiator, but cant help thinking that I will prob only see an improvement of 1 to 2 degrees given that 140mm fans are not as good as 120for pushing air.Co incidentally I have ordered the raystorm as well due to concerns that the EK high flow blocks seem to have a problem cooling these chips as reported elsewhere. Think I may as well take the plunge on the 280 rad as well - keep us posted of your results/findings.

Mark

zoomee · 27 Nov 2011 at 12:36

will do mate. In all honesty I wouldn't expect to see massive drops changing a rad on a system. For example I previously went from a EK 120.3 res to a Thermochill 120.3 - It made about a degree or two difference - thats it.

The XSPC Raystorm is currently the best performer (and lowest restriction) available - being a 2011 block. However again - it will only give between 0.5Degrees C and 1Degrees C difference over the current high end blocks.

Just saying not to expect miracles mate - even watercooling components changes only take us so far. Its best to weigh up whether or not the extra cost is going to be worth it - I've wasted allot of money recently myself

tipes · 27 Nov 2011 at 12:39

zoomee said:
will do mate. In all honesty I wouldn't expect to see massive drops changing a rad on a system. For example I previously went from a EK 120.3 res to a Thermochill 120.3 - It made about a degree or two difference - thats it.

The XSPC Raystorm is currently the best performer (and lowest restriction) available - being a 2011 block. However again - it will only give between 0.5Degrees C and 1Degrees C difference over the current high end blocks.

Just saying not to expect miracles mate - even watercooling components changes only take us so far.

sadly I think your right, but with the two changes(rad and block) I/we might see an overall improvement of 1 to 2 degrees or so - which is what I thought, but every little helps - lol. Good luck.

Mark

moogle · 27 Nov 2011 at 13:10

zoomee said:
will do mate. In all honesty I wouldn't expect to see massive drops changing a rad on a system. For example I previously went from a EK 120.3 res to a Thermochill 120.3 - It made about a degree or two difference - thats it.(

Alll that does is change the heatload you can dissipate and lower the delta.
Can't get cooler than ambient without more specialised items.

s7cn · 27 Nov 2011 at 13:18

Invest in some waterchillers methinks

tipes · 27 Nov 2011 at 13:21

zoomee said:
will do mate. In all honesty I wouldn't expect to see massive drops changing a rad on a system. For example I previously went from a EK 120.3 res to a Thermochill 120.3 - It made about a degree or two difference - thats it.

The XSPC Raystorm is currently the best performer (and lowest restriction) available - being a 2011 block. However again - it will only give between 0.5Degrees C and 1Degrees C difference over the current high end blocks.

Just saying not to expect miracles mate - even watercooling components changes only take us so far. Its best to weigh up whether or not the extra cost is going to be worth it - I've wasted allot of money recently myself

Hey Zoomee,

Just had a thought(yeh I know - careful lol) how about fitting a 60mm rad which will fit just - but using an external shroud for the fans - ie fit the fans on the outside top of the case.Koolance make a nice 280mm black shroud which looking at it could do the job and look nice. Ok I know it isn't ideal having it this way for looks - but take a look at what I am talking about and see what you think. This at least would increase our choice of 280 rads including the thicker ones which I presume with more volume will cool a bit better. What do you reckon?????

Mark

tipes · 27 Nov 2011 at 13:49

s7cn said:
Invest in some waterchillers methinks

Think you might be on too a good suggestion there - can you suggest such an animal that will cool an o clocked 2700K but not cost a fortune???

Mark

s7cn · 27 Nov 2011 at 13:57

Unfortunately, these animals are usually fairly costly £300+ I believe, and at this point it's not justified imo. Water is leaps and bounds better than air. What sort of temps are you looking at currently?

zoomee · 27 Nov 2011 at 14:08

tipes said:
Hey Zoomee,

Just had a thought(yeh I know - careful lol) how about fitting a 60mm rad which will fit just - but using an external shroud for the fans - ie fit the fans on the outside top of the case.Koolance make a nice 280mm black shroud which looking at it could do the job and look nice. Ok I know it isn't ideal having it this way for looks - but take a look at what I am talking about and see what you think. This at least would increase our choice of 280 rads including the thicker ones which I presume with more volume will cool a bit better. What do you reckon?????

Mark

Thats some good thinking - but I've always found pushing air through a rad to offer better performance than pulling air through. Anyway its a point to bear in mind as it means we can use push/pull for better performance if need be at a later stage. I'm just going to have a 280 rad for cooling the CPU for now, until I change my GPU pending 7000/600 series - it should be good enough for that for now. Once I add the GPU I'll probably need to add another 120 rad (to the exhaust fan at the back), as I've found even push/pull doesn't give that good a performance (1-2Degrees C tops) and doesn't warrant the extra noise of all them fans! lol.

Man I wish I didn't sell my Aquaero 5 - god I miss that so much being able to control the fans the way it did

tipes · 27 Nov 2011 at 14:48

zoomee said:
Thats some good thinking - but I've always found pushing air through a rad to offer better performance than pulling air through. Anyway its a point to bear in mind as it means we can use push/pull for better performance if need be at a later stage. I'm just going to have a 280 rad for cooling the CPU for now, until I change my GPU pending 7000/600 series - it should be good enough for that for now. Once I add the GPU I'll probably need to add another 120 rad (to the exhaust fan at the back), as I've found even push/pull doesn't give that good a performance (1-2Degrees C tops) and doesn't warrant the extra noise of all them fans! lol.

Man I wish I didn't sell my Aquaero 5 - god I miss that so much being able to control the fans the way it did

No doubt you do miss the Aquaero - but how about a lamptron FC5 - I find it to be excellent and cheaper, albeit it does not have quite the same functionality of the Aquaero, but great fan controller though. Strangely enough I have found better results with fans extracting air from the case through the rad - granted you are using hot air - but seemed I got better temps this way. I am still testing though. I also have my rear exhaust fan set to intake !!!! seems to work well oddly enough. Think you may find that push pull will not be quite attainable room wise, but perhaps I am wrong there - as surely there will not be enough room with a 60mm rad with fans on inside - hence my suggestion of mounting fans externally to enable use of 60mm rad in the first place.

Mark

tipes · 27 Nov 2011 at 14:51

s7cn said:
Unfortunately, these animals are usually fairly costly £300+ I believe, and at this point it's not justified imo. Water is leaps and bounds better than air. What sort of temps are you looking at currently?

Hi,

Currently my 2700K is at 4.5 gig 1.288v on load with IBT or whatever.Temps are mid 50 to 60, but this is not on full high test - will do another max test to find out for you and get back to you on that.

Mark

Update:

Just run IBT max test - dont have room temp but guess about 18 deg. Temps were 61,65,66,64. So not too bad - so maybe I can try for 4.6gig and see how I go?

EllisDJ · 27 Nov 2011 at 16:46

zoomee said:
I've just taken the plunge and ordered this lot:

1 x 280mm Koolance HF radiator (30mm depth)
XSPC Raystorm CPU waterblock
3.3 metre 3/8"ID 1/2"OD tubing - About £120

2 x Akasa Viper 140mm
1 x Coolermaster 200mm blue - About £35

Already got a Liang DDC + XSPC Bay Res + Fittings.

Thats £150 - which ain't too bad taking into account I should be able to rake back half by selling my H100

Only problem I can forsee is where the ATX power plugs in on the motherboard getting in the way - its probably gunna be a tight squeeze but should fit /fingers crossed

Thats very simialar to my idea - what Koolance did you get and where from?

I was looking at the 280 Koolance with 30 fpi - therefore would need good pressure from the fans. I was worried that would be no good - compared to a Stealth GT 280 - thats much lesser fpi ??

What was your thinking in getting that rad?

EllisDJ · 27 Nov 2011 at 16:49

Questions

Is there any benefit or problem of a Double 5.25 Bay Reservoir over a single?

Whats the better pump to get the Laing 18w DDC-1T or the EK 4.0 (this has higher stats but £20 cheaper?

How much fluid will I need to get me going? - plan to buy premixed stuff with the algae and corrosion stuff already in?

Thanks

moogle · 27 Nov 2011 at 16:54

EllisDJ said:
Questions

Is there any benefit or problem of a Double 5.25 Bay Reservoir over a single?

Whats the better pump to get the Laing 18w DDC-1T or the EK 4.0 (this has higher stats but £20 cheaper?

How much fluid will I need to get me going? - plan to buy premixed stuff with the algae and corrosion stuff already in?

Thanks

Double bay -> more fluid so maybe longer till the max temp is reached.

THe Laing DDC is the more popular pump, you can add tops to it and stuff. I think it's smaller than an EK DCP 4.0 and IMO better looking (with a modified top). However it does run hot.

Fluid 1L should be enough. Only really big loops need much more.

EllisDJ · 27 Nov 2011 at 16:58

are pumps ok being turned on and off a lot - I turn my pc off every night generally?

is the fact it runs hot a problem?

Is the Laing D5 much better - its on special atm???

Tahnks

moogle · 27 Nov 2011 at 17:06

Of course the pumps are okay to be turned on and off. My pc sleeps every 10 mins after idle and usually when I get off it and go make something to eat it sleeps. So that's around 5-7 sleeps a day so 5-7 on/off of the pump and it's working fine (Laing D5)

The DDC has more pressure so you can put a more restrictive block in, the D5 isn't far behind and it doesn't make a difference if you aren't using like a long loop with multiple blocks lowering the flow.

Yes it can be a problem the 18W ones do heat up quite hot and some users have theirs fail because of this. Some people mount it raised so air can flow underneath it (where it gets hot the most).

The 10W one is quite cool though.

EllisDJ · 27 Nov 2011 at 17:10

The 10w is £5 cheaper - so happy days and thanks for the tip.

I am guessing the 10w is man enough for 1 oc 2600k and 2 580s on a normal sized loop
with some future proofing in there preferably as well

Thanks

moogle · 27 Nov 2011 at 17:27

Well the 18w is more suited to a multiblock setup, plus the 2 rads in your 650D will be a little bit more restrictive than 1 single 360 rad so with the setup you're going to have I'd take a 18w to have the futureproofing.

I'd run a 10W one on maybe a CPU loop or CPU + GPU + 1 Radiator.

EllisDJ · 27 Nov 2011 at 17:37

My plan is 2 rads a 280 and a 200

then cpu - with a decent waterblock not 100% which one yet.
Hard to decide new Rasa sounds good but not out yet typically and I am time short.
Worried about the EK ones as have seen on forum that they corrode ?

then one gpu to start with - then another in the future if necessary.

My case will only have 1 intake - thats the 120mm exhasut that I will use as an intake - I plan on running exhaust for both the top 280 and bottom 200.
does that make sense?

I might struggle to cool the pump - I was planning on it being near the dual bay 5.25 reservoir - maybe under it in the last free bay - its pretty cool in there?
or if it doesnt fit on the case floor - in theory the coolest place

what do you think - i am wc noob