Help with adding water to my 650D

I'm no pro myself but I did lots of reading and research before I bought stuff.

If you're worried about the EK corrosion then get the copper or Plexi or Acetal Copper versions. The copper does tarnish though so when you remove the block it'll look dull and nasty maybe but that's on the CPU side. Bit of metal polish will shine it up again.

The airflow description makes sense, I suppose if all the intake is coming from that 120mm then I'd put a sort of filter on it like a front one would to stop it sucking in lots of dust.

As for the pump as long as there's airflow passing it it'll be okay. It's when it gets in places where it heats up with nowhere to go that will make it run hotter and could shorten it's lifetime.
 
I have got demciflex over my intakes now and will re-use them, good tip tho

wc is expensive trying to get it right 1st time as to not waste any money
 
It is, but it lasts long and when you upgrade at most you only have to change your waterblock or it's mounting system.
Oh and maybe the tubing and coolant.

It's sort of like buying a decent case and psu that you can keep over the upgrades.

It's a sizeable chunk at first but then come upgrade time, you spend less or get more power for the money :)
 
What do I need to buy to link 2 580 gpus in sli

I have seen link type adaptors- however I am not sure what I need?
I will be using 2 EK 580 blocks
 
@@ Tipes - ~1.3v should give you 4.6 - If you've got an ASRock Extreme Gen3 board - just use all auto settings and Auto 4.6 profile - you'll be laughing at how easy it is lol. 4.5 gives you ~65Degrees C on IBT maximum - so plenty of leway for one more hundred mhz - btw I was thinking using push/pull with a 30mm rad like you mentioned with a shroud if need be ;)

@@EllisDJ - Hope you don't think I'm hijacking your thread mate - just thought we'd keep this in one thread as we are both after roughly the same goals ;)

Get a MCP-35x - best pump out there and you can control it too using a fan controller or the likes. I swear by the DDC style pumps - they are awesomely powerful for their size and I didn't have any problems with heat for my MCP-355 (18w DDC) AND they are pretty quiet. You'll need the better pressure they have if you'r going to run dual 580 in SLI blocks aswell ;)


BEST waterblock money can buy is the Koolance 370 - HOWEVER, Read this and you'll end up getting what i did - The new XSPC Raystorm - On par in performance but about £20 cheaper ;) - looks sexy as hell aswell!:
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/09/26/i7-2600k-cpu-xspc-raystorm/

Sorry can't say where I got the 280 koolance rad from as its probably branded a competitor. All I can say is that its the ONLY place in the UK that has a decent 280 rad in stock - hence my decision - it was either the magikcool (£40) or the Koolance (£52) - I went for the koolance hearing good things about it. The other SR-1 ones were way out of my price range. One other competitor had a 280 Black ICE GTS or something but I read somewhere they wern't as good performance wise so struck that off my list.

Lastly - One of the cheapest and best connectors to rig your two SLI blocks together is the TFC SLI connector - its cheap as chips - looks the part (nickel) and also comes in different sizes so you can easily match it up to your motherboard PCI spacing ;)

The only thing you'll struggle with (and will be a case of experience, once you start building the system) is things like the actual compressions - you might need to get some angled stuff but will only know which ones you really need once you start putting it together. - Think logically how it all fits together and what type of angling you need on the tubing ;)

Lastly - I prefer distilled/de-ionised water with a silver kill coil - as fancy as premixed stuff is - A)- It gets hotter quicker and B)- It can leave staining and sometimes even clogg up components. Hence I stick with the simpler stuff in life - Halfords Battery top-up water (De-ionised) cost me £3.99 for 5Ltr's last time I got some lol.
 
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zoomee said:
@@ Tipes - ~1.3v should give you 4.6 - If you've got an ASRock Extreme Gen3 board - just use all auto settings and Auto 4.6 profile - you'll be laughing at how easy it is lol. 4.5 gives you ~65Degrees C on IBT maximum - so plenty of leway for one more hundred mhz - btw I was thinking using push/pull with a 30mm rad like you mentioned with a shroud if need be ;)

@@EllisDJ - Hope you don't think I'm hijacking your thread mate - just thought we'd keep this in one thread as we are both after roughly the same goals ;)

Get a MCP-35x - best pump out there and you can control it too using a fan controller or the likes. I swear by the DDC style pumps - they are awesomely powerful for their size and I didn't have any problems with heat for my MCP-355 (18w DDC) AND they are pretty quiet. You'll need the better pressure they have if you'r going to run dual 580 in SLI blocks aswell ;)


BEST waterblock money can buy is the Koolance 370 - HOWEVER, Read this and you'll end up getting what i did - The new XSPC Raystorm - On par in performance but about £20 cheaper ;) - looks sexy as hell aswell!:
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/09/26/i7-2600k-cpu-xspc-raystorm/

Sorry can't say where I got the 280 koolance rad from as its probably branded a competitor. All I can say is that its the ONLY place in the UK that has a decent 280 rad in stock - hence my decision - it was either the magikcool (£40) or the Koolance (£52) - I went for the koolance hearing good things about it. The other SR-1 ones were way out of my price range. One other competitor had a 280 Black ICE GTS or something but I read somewhere they wern't as good performance wise so struck that off my list.

Lastly - One of the cheapest and best connectors to rig your two SLI blocks together is the TFC SLI connector - its cheap as chips - looks the part (nickel) and also comes in different sizes so you can easily match it up to your motherboard PCI spacing ;)

The only thing you'll struggle with (and will be a case of experience, once you start building the system) is things like the actual compressions - you might need to get some angled stuff but will only know which ones you really need once you start putting it together. - Think logically how it all fits together and what type of angling you need on the tubing ;)

Lastly - I prefer distilled/de-ionised water with a silver kill coil - as fancy as premixed stuff is - A)- It gets hotter quicker and B)- It can leave staining and sometimes even clogg up components. Hence I stick with the simpler stuff in life - Halfords Battery top-up water (De-ionised) cost me £3.99 for 5Ltr's last time I got some lol.
Click to expand...

+1 on the Halford's water ^_^
 
lol - yer I got sick of buying an £8 + P&P bottle of EC6 just to have to drain the system a week afterwards ;) - I got much better temps with the halfords stuff aswell!!!
 
Zoomee,

In fact I just used my own 4.5gig profile and added another +15 to the offset which resulted in ibt max test of 63,67,69,66 degrees - so not too bad.10 runs of Linx pass with 61,66,67,64. So quite happy with that. Oh yes and V core was 1.304 load.
I think once I change to the Raystorm/Koolance280, I may get further headroom.Thanks for your help etc. Raystorm and Kolance on the way:D

Mark
 
Thats the one thing I havn't ordered yet pending further investigation!
I was going to get 2 x 140mm vipers - but then all the reviews I've read - i'm better off sticking with 120mm fans on it tbh.

High FPI - That means i need high RPM fans yeah? pooo

I've got 3 akasa apaches (120mm) and 3 Scythe GT 1450's here from my last build - not sure if I'm going to bother buying more unless I get some solid recommendations?
 
We are in exact same boat I am
Now thinking maybe 240 rad is better with gt s on?

I was thinking 2x 140 vipers off an akasa controller so can turn them up and down as necc.
I was thinking the 280 black ice stealth.
Where did you read it's no good mate please?
 
EllisDJ said:
We are in exact same boat I am
Now thinking maybe 240 rad is better with gt s on?

I was thinking 2x 140 vipers off an akasa controller so can turn them up and down as necc.
I was thinking the 280 black ice stealth.
Where did you read it's no good mate please?
Click to expand...

I too plan on using the vipers with a fan controller - as for the 280 black ice stealth - I read quite a few reviews before deciding on the koolance(despite its high fpi) don't forget I would imagine the more fpi then the rad has more area to cool, but offset by the need for fans with good airflow to get the air through the close fins. Google for reviews on the koolance rad and you will see the comparisons with the black ice.Bundymania i think does good reviews.

Mark
 
I see the temps for the koolance 280 looked great at high rpm but another chart I can't find now said the flow rate wasn't that great which out me off.

Can't find any koolance in stock anywhere?
Can you help / advise?
 
For radiator fans - remember its about static pressure fellas. XS have an exhaustive review about 120mm 1850 GT's outpacing a shed load of 140mm fans on a 140 rad.

Not sure about the vipers as they can be very loud - I can't stand too much fan noise, so if I do get Akasa 140mm I will probably go for the Apaches as they have -4db in noise but only -10CFM. (Vipers are 110CFM @ 26db, Apaches are 90CFM @ 22db).....

Still not sure - My 1450RPM GT's were just about bearable noise wise so I might just stick with them on a couple of 120>140 brackets. 280 rads are defo the way forward though as they seriously outpace the 240 rads and come very close to 120.3 cooling levels, oh and they are nowhere near as restrictive as the 240's either.

PS Ellis - Hit me with some trust dude ;)
 
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